Trekking in Peru

Lares & the Short Inca Trail combination trek

Sarah Confer

If you ask me, combining the Lares Trail with the Short Inca Trail (also known as the KM104 trek or the two-day Inca Trail) is the ultimate Machu Picchu hiking hack.

The full Inca Trail deserves it fame as one of the world's best treks, but there’s no question that it’s permanently busy, expensive and hard to secure permits. (There are workers' rights concerns to be aware of, too.)

Personally, I find the Lares trek experience to be much more enjoyable and relaxed. My favourite Lares route goes via a remote village called Chaullacocha where you can stay with a local family and really get to know the area’s fascinating traditions and livelihoods. You don’t get any of that on the Inca Trail.

The one thing you do get on the Inca Trail is the life-changing experience of arriving at Machu Picchu on foot. Approaching the ruins via the Sun Gate and entering under your own steam is something you can only do on the Inca Trail.

So, my ultimate Peru trekking hack is to get the best of both worlds: do the Lares trek – specifically the little-known route shown below – and then combine it with the Short Inca Trail at KM104 for a grand finale at Machu Picchu.

As an added bonus, the Short Inca Trail runs on a totally separate permit system with much better availability and, unlike on the full four day Inca Trail, you’ll arrive in the afternoon just as the day trip crowds are beginning to thin out. You then have a comfortable night in a hotel in Aguas Calientes before returning refreshed the next morning for a guided tour of the ruins.

The only downside I can think of to this combination is that you’ll visit the Lares hot springs at the start of the trek rather than the end, as per the classic Lares route. That said, there are hot springs in Aguas Calientes (hence the name!) where you can soak your weary toes.

The Lares trek

Heather Jasper

• Difficulty: Moderate

• Distance: Various routes, classic route approx 33km (20m)

• Duration: Three to four days

• Max elevation: 4,400 metres

• Accommodation: Camping or lodges

• Start/end point: Huarán - Lares Hot Springs

The Lares Trek is known as the “cultural trek” to Machu Picchu, as it offers opportunities to interact with local communities along the way. It’s one of the shorter treks, which makes it a good option for those who are short on time.

This is probably my favourite of all the Machu Picchu region treks, for the cultural interactions that are less common on some of the other routes.

Hiking from the Sacred Valley up to high mountain passes, you’ll be treated to some stunning vistas on this route. However, the real treat here is meeting the local inhabitants of indigenous villages along the way, learning about ancestral weaving techniques directly from the descendants who are still practising them today. An added (and welcome) bonus is finishing at the hot springs in Lares.

Qhapac Ñan trek

Heather Jasper

• Difficulty: Moderate to challenging
• Distance: Various routes, typically around 60 km (37 miles)
• Duration: Five to seven days
• Accommodation: Camping
• Start/end point: Huanuco Pampa

Not really a single trek, Qhapac Ñan ("Beautiful Road" in Quechua) is the name for the 25,000 mile road network that stitched the Inca Empire together from Colombia in the north to Chile in the south.

Only recently discovered (by the tourism industry at least – locals have always known about it), pioneering travel companies are now developing sections of the Qhapac Ñan into commercial treks. This is a truly frontier travel experience, and one that can contribute directly to the preservation of a fascinating but criminally overlooked historical artefact.

Most of the action is centred around the central region near Huaraz, but various routes stretch a long way both up and down the Andes.

KM 104

Heather Jasper

• Difficulty: Moderate
• Duration: Six to seven hours' hiking
• Distance: 11km
• Max elevation: 2,500
• Start/end point: Km 104 to Machu Picchu

If it’s important for you to arrive at Machu Picchu by foot, consider doing the KM104 hike to Machu Picchu, which I’ve done twice. You get the epic arrival with a less crowded experience.

Although tour operators typically refer to this as the "Two Day Inca Trail", it actually only involves one day of hiking. The second day you visit Machu Picchu after spending the night in a hotel Aguas Calientes.

A little-publicised benefit to the KM104 trek is that you arrive at Machu Picchu in the afternoon, when the light is beautiful and the crowds are beginning to thin out. You are not allowed to enter the ruins, but you have a great view of them from the Sun Gate (Intipunku) and can stop to take photos on some of the upper terraces. Even better, you return the next morning for a full guided tour.

My ultimate pro tip: combine the Lares trek for the multi-day hiking experience, followed by the KM104 hike for the epic Machu Picchu arrival.

Ancascocha trek

Miguel Gongora

• Difficulty: Strenuous

• Distance: 50 km

• Duration: Four days

• Max elevation: 4,959m/16,270ft.

• Accommodation: Camping

• Start/end point: Socma to Piscacucho

This is another lesser-known trek in the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu area, and is one of the most difficult in the whole Cusco region.

On the final day of my preferred route you link up with the first day of the classic Inca Trail, but in the opposite direction. Despite this, very few other hikers do this trek, making it a great hidden gem in an otherwise busy region.

My preferred route starts at Socma and follows the same route as the Cachiqata trek (Quarry Trail). But where that trek veers north, this route goes west into the Chancachuco Valley and, on the second day, over some strenuous mountain passes to beautiful Ancascocha Lake, fed by glaciers from Huayanay mountain. The mountain scenery up here is out of this world.

The downhill stretch from Chancachuco to Chilca or Paukarcancha is particularly stunning, with beautiful wild orchids lining the trail.

On the third day you see the first day of the classic Inca Trail in reverse and get to visit the ruins of Paukarcancha and Llaqtapata before finishing the hike where the classic Inca Trail begins. From here, you can either take the train to Aguas Calientes and a bus to Machu Picchu or, my favourite, finish with the KM 104 (‘short Inca Trail’) and arrive at Machu Picchu on foot.

No permits are required unless you’re combining the hike with the classic inca trail.

The Palcay Trail

Roxner Quispe

• Difficulty: Strenuous

• Distance: Approx. 42km

• Duration: Four days hiking

• Start/end point: Soraypampa/Hidroelectrica

• Accommodation: Camping

The Palcay Trail is a virtually unheard of Machu Picchu trek. The trail runs through community-managed land and access is allowed only with local consent, making this a truly unique trek for those who manage to get permission.

I find this route offers all the magical elements of the Inca Trail – cloud forest, Inca ruins, towering mountains – but almost entirely free of any other trekkers. The route starts in Soraypampa, approximately three hours’ drive from Cusco, and begins climbing almost straight away. The main climb is on the second day, with two high mountain passes, and by the fourth day you arrive at the hydroelectric station near Aguas Calientes. Typically you’d spend the night in a hotel there before doing a day tour of Machu Picchu the following morning.

One word of caution, though: this is a very challenging route, and one I’d only recommend for fit and experienced trekkers. The highest point is Inka Chiriaska at 4,937 m, and Palcay Pass isn’t far off at 4,708 m. The ascents are steep but the views, right across the valley all the way to Salkantay mountain, are incredible.

You can’t realistically do this hike on your own, you need a guide and to gain the necessary permissions to enter community-managed land.

Huchuy Qosqo trek

Miguel Gongora

• Difficulty: Mild

• Distance: 23 km

• Duration: Two days

• Max elevation: 4,335 metres

• Accommodation: Camping

• Start/end point: Patabamba to Lamay

This is one of my favourite shorter treks in the Sacred Valley region. The hike leads to the remains of Huchuy Qosqo, which means ‘small Cusco’ in the indigenous Quechua language.

The Huchuy Qosqo Trek is an excellent choice for inexperienced hikers as it is the easiest trek in the Cusco area. The hardest climb takes only three hours, followed by a downhill walk. I usually recommend this hike for groups with kids or older trekkers, although proper acclimatisation is still essential.

One of the most impressive features is the Leon Punku Canyon, which leads you through a stunning Inca road that runs along the bottom of the canyon. Another interesting feature of this hike is that it’s the only trek where you can camp within Inca ruins.

The route starts in Patabamba and leads through grassland puna as it climbs towards Sihuas pass, following some of the original Inca roadway, of which the more famous Inca Trail is just one section. Eventually on the end of the first day you reach the site of Huchuy Qosqo and make camp at the ruins. (With no light pollution for miles, the high altitude night sky here is one of the best places to stargaze.) The next morning you can explore the ruins before descending and finishing in Lamay town, which is an interesting place to explore for an hour or so.

Probably my favourite way to hike to Machu Picchu is by combining the Huchuy Qosqo trek with the KM 104 (‘short Inca Trail’) hike, and entering Machu Picchu on foot rather than by bus with all the day trippers.

If you prefer more of a challenge, the alternative routes via Ccor Ccor or Cuper Alto are just as impressive, but a bit tougher.

Choquequirao trek

Heather Jasper

• Difficulty: Strenuous
• Distance: Approx 64km (40m)
• Duration: Four to five days depending on pace
• Max elevation: 3,300 metres
• Accommodation: Cabins or camping
• Start/end point: Capuliyoc

Until recently, relatively unknown and vastly overshadowed by the “sister ruins” of Machu Picchu, the Choquequirao complex is a true hidden gem that receives just a handful of visitors each year.

This splendid isolation is down to the ruins’ absolute lack of access: no luxury train and bus connections here, just a gruelling three-to-four day trek over challenging, but hugely rewarding, terrain. The roundtrip distance is 64 kilometres, not counting how much you walk around the ruins themselves.

Gran Vilaya trek

Heather Jasper

• Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous
• Duration: Four days
• Max elevation: 3,500 metres
• Accommodation: Hostels, homestays and cabins
• Start/end point: Cocachimba/Kuélap

This is the best trek in the north of Peru to see both spectacular jungle and pre-Inca archeological sites. You’ll visit the petroglyphs of Pitaya, the sarcophagi of Karajia, the extensive Gran Vilaya archeological complex, the Lanche archeological site and the immense citadel of Kuélap. You’ll also see Gocta Waterfall, which is an astonishing 771 metres high, and the unique ecosystem that transitions from the high Andes to the Amazon Rainforest. You’ll hike past coffee farms and have the opportunity to try locally grown and roasted coffee.

Though most agencies run this as a four day trek, there are also three day and five day options. The distance covered each day varies and it is possible to do most of the trek on horseback. Not all agencies include the nine km return hike to Gocta waterfalls on the first day, so be sure to ask about that when you book.

It's a moderately difficult trek, as long as you are comfortable both hiking and on horseback. The third day is planned on horseback because it’s 20 kilometres, which makes for an exhausting day if you're hiking. That day also has the greatest climbs, with an ascent of 1,400 metres of elevation and a descent of 700 metres. You will carry your own picnic lunch every day.

You will stay each evening in a town that has electricity and bathrooms with plumbing. Lodging on this trek is usually quite basic and there are no fancy hotels in the area. The first night is in Huaylla Belén, usually in cabins. The second night is in Congón, where you have the opportunity for a homestay with a local family. The third night is usually in a family B&B in Choctamal, just below the Kuélap ruins. If you prefer to stay in tents, make sure to notify the agency when you book the trek.

There are a few local tour operators in the town of Chachapoyas. If you book with a tour agency in Cajamarca, Lima or an international agency, ask which local operator they partner with so you can look for reviews of their services. Ask if the cable car is included for the descent from Kuélap on the last day. You will have a muleteer for the pack horses and the horses you ride. Depending on the size of your group, your guide may have an assistant with them. There are sections on the first and fourth day when you will be in a van.

Transportation is usually included from the town of Chachapoyas to Cocachimba and from Kuélap back to Chachapoyas. There are daily flights from Lima to Cajamarca, which is 328 km from Chachapoyas. If you need to be picked up in Cajamarca be sure to mention that when you book. You can also fly to Jaen, which is 186 km from Chachapoyas, but smaller than Cajamarca with more limited flights.

Quellcaya Glacier hike

Claire Dean

One of the most demanding hikes I’ve done in the Cusco region is the two day/one night hike to Quellcaya Glacier, the largest tropical glacier on the planet, in the Vilcanota Mountain Range, approximately five hours from Cusco.

Known locally as Quenamari, the glacier sits at 5,600 metres above sea level and serves as a critical water source for the Sibinacocha Lagoon and beyond. It feeds the Vilcamayo River, which becomes the Urubamba River that winds through the Sacred Valley towards Machu Picchu, and later the Ucayali River – itself a tributary of the mighty Amazon.

The glacier itself is striking, a vast, glaring expanse of ice stretching across the mountain. Standing there, the silence is profound, broken only by the occasional crack of shifting ice or the distant calls of Andean birds. It’s a scene I haven’t encountered anywhere else.

Beyond its geographical significance, the glacier holds deep cultural importance for the local Quechua communities, who continue to perform ancestral rituals in honour of Pachamama, or Mother Earth. Meeting the people who live in this extreme environment was fascinating. With the help of a guide to translate from Quechua, I was able to hear their stories—how they survive at this altitude, relying on alpaca herding, weaving, and a deep knowledge of their environment. The remoteness of their lives is difficult to comprehend; the nearest town is 40 kilometres away. Spending time with them was a real privilege

The surrounding landscape is every bit as remarkable as the glacier itself. The region is dotted with glacial lakes, peat bogs, and untouched high-altitude grasslands. I was particularly struck by the wildlife—there are vicuñas, llamas, and alpacas here, and, unexpectedly, frogs! In the Sibinacocha Lagoon, I saw more frogs than I’d imagined possible, their chorus filling the air as we set up camp in sub-zero temperatures. Some of these species are endangered, yet here they seemed abundant, thriving in the icy glacial waters.

Need to know

This trek is not for the casual hiker. It’s physically demanding, and the high altitude is a serious factor. Prior acclimatisation in Cusco (at least two days) is essential, and you need to be comfortable hiking for extended periods in sub-zero conditions. The final approach to the glacier involves a three-hour ascent at extreme elevation.

The only viable time to visit is during the dry season (April to October). Even then, weather in the Andes is unpredictable, and sudden rain or snow showers are always a possibility. Avalanches can be a risk in the wet season, making this trek unsafe from November to March. Essential gear includes warm, layered clothing, waterproof trekking trousers and boots, gloves, a hat, sunglasses, and high-SPF sun protection. Despite the cold, the high-altitude sun is intense. A headlamp is also necessary for early-morning trekking in low light.

Accommodation options include camping or a rustic lodge near the glacier. I camped on my visit, but after experiencing temperatures well below freezing, I’d strongly consider the lodge next time.

With the glacier retreating rapidly due to climate change, now is the time to witness this extraordinary natural phenomenon. This trek is challenging, but for those willing to step far beyond the usual tourist trails, it offers an experience that is both humbling and unforgettable.

Santa Cruz trek

Heather Jasper

• Difficulty: Strenuous
• Duration: Four days
• Distance: 47km
• Max elevation: 4,750 metres
• Start/end point: Cashapampa to Vaquería
• Accommodation: Camping

The Santa Cruz Trek is considered one of the best treks in the Huaraz region, which also makes it the most popular and commercially available.

Trek is a three to four day loop through the Cordillera Blanca mountain range. Approximately 50 km long, the trek usually starts in Cashapampa or Colcabamba. You will be consistently hiking above 4,000 meters and reach a maximum altitude of 4,750 meters while crossing the Punta Union mountain pass on day three.

The route takes you through beautiful high-altitude landscapes, past crystal-clear lakes, and over high passes, with the option to add on a visit to the nearby Laguna 69. From Punta Unión you can see ten of the highest peaks in the Cordillera Blanca, including Alpamayo and Artesonraju.

Need to know

Each hiker must also pay a total of S/65 (~$18 USD) in national park fees in cash. You can pay at the trailhead or give the cash to your guide prior to starting the trek.

Most trekkers start in Cashapampa and hike through to Vaquería, though the trail can also be done in reverse. If you are doing this trek without an agency, it is generally easier to get transportation from Huaraz to Cashapampa and from Vaquería back to Huaraz. Stop by the Casa de Guías for free maps and to learn about the current trail conditions.

Ausangate 'Seven Lagoons' trek

Sarah Confer

Of all the big hikes in the Machu Picchu/Cusco region, the Ausangate trek is by far the quietest. Although it’s often grouped with the famous Inca Trail alternative treks, the Ausangate trek is actually 100km in the opposite direction to Machu Picchu, which immediately filters out a lot of the crowds and makes this what I call a ‘trekker’s trek.’

This five day itinerary loops anticlockwise around the colossal 6,384m Ausangate mountain and it has long been a favourite of mine. The scenery of Alpine views and crystal lakes is unspeakably beautiful and the hike is a serious challenge. Although you catch glimpses of Ausangate mountain early on, seeing the mountain face to face on the second pass takes my breath away every time.

There’s one quirk to know about the classic Ausangate trek itinerary offered by most operators, which is that they usually finish at Vinicunca, the colourful ‘Rainbow Mountain’ made famous by countless Instagram accounts and crowded by day tours from Cusco (it’s currently the region’s #2 attraction after Machu Picchu!)

There’s nothing really wrong with this, but I much prefer the following Ausangate itinerary, which starts at Vinicunca rather than ends there. This means you reach the viewpoint just as the last of the day trippers are leaving, giving you an unobstructed view of the colourful striations, before leaving the tourists behind, and heading into the Andean wilderness.

Palcoyo Rainbow Mountain day hike

Claire Dean

• Difficulty: Mild
• Duration: Approx. two hours hiking (10 hours including travel to/from Cusco)
• Max elevation: 4,900m

You may have heard of Vinicunca, Peru's ‘rainbow mountain’ made famous as a popular – and often crowded – day trip from Cusco. What most people don’t know is that there are actually several rainbow mountains in the Vilcanota range, of which my favourite to visit is Palcoyo Rainbow Mountain.

Palcoyo is a quieter, less-showy alternative to Vinicunca, with multiple rainbow-striped peaks instead of Vinicunca’s single summit. The colours of Palcoyo are less vibrant than Vinicunca, and don’t make quite such an ‘Instagrammable’ shot – personally I think this is a good thing, as it has kept Palcoyo a much more peaceful place to visit. Having done both hikes, I find Palcoyo to be the more rewarding choice for seeing Peru’s colourful mountains without a demanding climb.

Starting early in Cusco, a scenic three-and-a-half-hour drive takes you through high-altitude Andean landscapes, passing herds of llamas and alpacas, with a stop at the colonial-style village of Checacupe along the way. The drive itself is part of the adventure, with stunning scenery to take in and with breakfast included, you’re fueled up for the trail ahead.

The hike itself is a gradual ascent, beginning with a 25-minute walk to the first viewpoint. The high altitude naturally slows the pace, but I found the route steady and manageable. A cobblestoned path leads to the second viewpoint, where three rainbow mountains come into view. Another 20 minutes leads to the Stone Forest at 4,900m, a rugged area of rock formations that offers a sweeping panorama of all three surrounding mountains.

The landscape holds more than just colourful mountains – a red river flows through the valley, and the distinct terrain of the red valley adds to the scenery. This is an active farming area, with alpacas grazing in the distance. Unlike the crowded trails of Vinicunca, Palcoyo remains largely untouched, and I found it to be a much more peaceful experience.

The weather in the Andes is unpredictable, so layers, sun protection, and a refillable water bottle are essential. Coca leaves can help with altitude, and I’d highly recommend spending a few days acclimatising in Cusco beforehand. Although the journey is long, Palcoyo is a quieter, less strenuous alternative to Vinicunca for those with a free day in Cusco.

The Vilcabamba trek

Heather Jasper

• Difficulty: Strenuous
• Duration: Five days
• Distance: 55 km
• Maximum elevation: 4500m
• Start/end point: Huancacalle - Yanatile

The Vilcabamba Trek takes hikers through the remote and rugged Vilcabamba mountain range, home to the last Inca stronghold during the Spanish conquest. Few trekking agencies run trips here but if you do go, you’ll likely have the place to yourself. Two amazing Inca ruins that you’ll visit are Vitcos and Ñustahispana.

The highlight of the trek is the visit to the remote and well-preserved Inca site of Espiritu Pampa, also known as "The Last City of the Incas." Read “Turn Right at Machu Picchu” by Mark Adams for a humorous account of his gruelling trek to Vilcabamba. This is a difficult trek because of the high mountain passes.

The Salkantay trek

Heather Jasper

• Difficulty: Strenuous
• Distance: Approx. 60km (37m)
• Duration: Four to five days
• Max elevation: 4,630 metres
• Accommodation: Camping or lodges
• Start/end point: Challacancha - Santa Teresa

The Salkantay Trek is the most popular alternative to the Inca Trail, described by National Geographic as one of the best treks in the world. While there are no ruins along the way unless you do the lodge-to-lodge version, the opportunity for gorgeous landscapes is even greater than on the Inca Trail, leading it to be known as the “Nature Trek.”

From snow-capped mountains down to high jungle, this trek is known for its varied ecosystems and landscapes. You’ll pass high mountain glaciers, walk along rolling fields and pastures, and end up in the high jungle that surrounds Machu Picchu.

The length of this hike can vary, both in mileage as well as in the number of days. The traditional version is four days of hiking, covering a distance of about 37 miles. If you choose the much more comfort-oriented lodge-to-lodge version of the trek, you will hike for six days, covering a bit more distance but with less hiking time per day.

Expert insight, by Miles Buesst of PeruNorth, a specialist in Peru trekking tours: "The last time I did the Salkantay Trek, despite being tired from the first day’s hiking, I made the effort to climb up the lateral moraine left by Salkantay Glacier. Boy, it was worth it! I was rewarded with a vast lunar landscape of rocks and craters, left by the retreating ice sheet. I could hear the occasional sound of the glacier calving a kilometre above me, and falling rocks and ice. It was easy to see why locals - past and present - have worshipped these mountains as gods, called apus."

The Huayhuash Circuit

Heather Jasper

• Difficulty: Strenuous
• Distance: Approx 130 km depending on route
• Duration: Eight to ten days
• Maximum elevation: 5,000-5,200m, depending on the route
• Start/end point: Llámac
• Accommodation: Camping

The Huayhuash Circuit is a challenging multi-day trek which can be adapted for routes as short as two days and as long as twelve days, although most people complete it in eight to 10 days.

The route snakes through the Huayhuash range made famous by Joe Simpson’s book Touching the Void, which recounts his nearly fatal climb up Siula Grande (6,344m) with Simon Yates in 1985.

The trails around go by shimmering turquoise lakes, glaciers, high mountain passes and all have expansive views of more glaciers and summits over 6,000m. You may see condors, vizcacha (a kind of chinchilla) and vicuña, the wild cousin of the llama. As the campgrounds are all maintained by local communities, this is a great place to meet Andeans who speak Quechua and maintain their traditional culture and lifestyle.

The trek is not nearly as dangerous as attempting to summit the peaks but you're still at high altitude, between 3,300m and 5,200m. All trekkers should check on current conditions with the Casa de Guías in Huaraz before setting out. You can get free maps that are quite basic or purchase detailed topographical maps.

If you prefer a shorter route, there is an extensive network of trails around the Huayhuash Range, which makes it easily adaptable for almost any length of trek. A simple overnight is usually at Laguna Soltera Cocha and the full twelve days is a circle around the/ entire mountain range.

Need to know

If you book with an agency, they will provide transportation from Huaraz to the trailhead at Quisipata, near the town of Chiquián. From Quisipata you can hike to either Llámac or Pacllón. If you are hiking alone, enquire about transportation at the Casa de Guías in Huaraz. If you are coming directly from Lima you may start in Cajatambo, but that is not advisable unless you are already acclimated to the high altitude.

Tours usually depart at 9AM from the agency office and start wiith a five to six hour drive through gorgeous backroads and small towns to reach the first campsite where you'll spend your first night beneath the stars and get to know your fellow trekkers. Your guide will usually have a brief meeting with the group after dinner each evening to discuss the hiking route for the next day.

Olleros-Chavín trek

Heather Jasper

• Difficulty: Moderate
• Duration: Three days
• Distance: 37km
• Max elevation: 4,700m
• Start/end point: Olleros/Chavín
  

This is the best trek for people interested in pre-Inca cultures and archeology. It follows a pre-Inca trail used to travel between the Callejón de Huaylas and the Conchucos Valley. When you arrive in Chavín, you should visit the Chavín de Huántar archeological site, which dates from 1200BCE.

This trek is one of the easiest in the Cordillera Blanca and a great option for training for a longer trek or a summit climb. The overall altitude is lower than other treks and the trail does not have the steep sections that characterise the region.

The Olleros Trek is not a loop like most Huaraz region treks. The trail begins in Olleros, a half hour drive east of Huaraz and ends in the town of Chavín. If you do this trek with an agency, they will provide transportation from Huaraz. If you go on your own, there is public transportation available from Huaraz to Olleros and from Chavín back to Huaraz. You can hire llamas to carry your camping gear, which is preferable to mules because llamas’ small feet do not damage the pre-Inca trail.

Chachani Volcano trek

Heather Jasper

• Difficulty: Challenging
• Distance: 31 km
• Duration: Two days
• Max elevation: 6,035 metres
• Start/end point: Arequipa

The Chachani Volcano is the highest volcano in the Arequipa region and has four summits, the highest of which is 6,075 metres. Despite being the highest, it is not the most popular volcano so you have a good chance of having the summit to yourself. The climb is not technical, though you may need crampons and ice axes December through February.

The drive from Arequipa to the trailhead takes about three hours. The hike up to base camp at 5,170 metres takes about two hours. Most guides will get their group up at about 3:00am so you can reach the summit early in the day. Afterwards, you’ll hike down to the trailhead and drive back to Arequipa.

This is a challenging trek because of the altitude but the views are absolutely worth it. The trail towards the top has loose rocks and ash, which can make walking more difficult.

You will camp at 5,300 metres, so be sure the agency includes a four season sleeping bag or bring your own. You may also want a sleeping bag liner for extra warmth. Spend at least a couple days hiking above 4,000 metres before attempting Chachani.

Laguna de los Cóndores trek

Heather Jasper

• Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous
• Duration: Three days
• Max elevation: 3,500
• Accommodation: Camping
• Start/end point: Leymebamba

This is a great, lesser-known, multi-day hike in the Chachapoyas area. You'll trek through several ecological zones, as the flora and fauna are different at each level of elevation. Once you reach the lake, you will be treated to a secluded body of water that often has so little wind that it becomes a perfect mirror, reflecting the steep jungle-covered cliffs that surround it.

On your second day, you’ll have all day to visit the cliffs where hundreds of mummies were discovered. Most of the artefacts are in the museum in Leymebamba, which is why it’s a good idea to visit the museum before you begin the trek. Some mausoleums in the cliff are intact, so bring binoculars. As the name promises, you’ll often see condors soaring along the cliffs above the lake.

Some agencies combine this with hikes to the Gocta waterfalls or other nearby archeological sites to make a four or five day itinerary. You may also spend a day in Leymebamba visiting the museum and spend the night there before you begin the trek.

The trek is difficult enough that you will be glad to spend the second day visiting the lake and the cliff where the mummies were found. On the hike in, you’ll ascend 1,400 metres of altitude and descend about 700 metres. You’ll hike back out on the same trail, so it will be only 700 metres up but a knee-aching 1,400 metres of descent.

You will camp two nights at the lake. Some agencies have built small cabins nearby, so inquire what kind of accommodation is included. Most agencies don’t include sleeping bags.

Trekking agencies always include transportation from Chachapoyas. If you require transportation from the airport in Cajamarca or Jaen be sure to notify the agency when you book.

Nevado Pisco Summit ascent

Rachel Schneider

• Difficulty: Strenuous
• Distance: 14.2 km
• Duration: Three days
• Max elevation: 5,752 m
• Start/end point: Cebollapampa
• Accommodation: Mountain huts

Nevado Pisco is ideal for novice mountaineers and climbers who are eager to attempt a first alpine ascent with a guide. With over 1,800 metres of elevation gain, the trek has a solid mix between strenuous rock scrambles and pleasant footpaths. The three-day ascent begins at 3,900 metres and reaches an altitude of 5,752 metres at the summit. For those who have their eyes set on more technical peaks, Nevado Pisco is recommended as a warm-up climb.

Starting from the village of Cebollapampa, a short three hour hike takes you to Pisco Base Camp at 4,700 metres, with the option to sleep in a mountain hut. Day two is your summit attempt. Departing from camp around 2 am to reach the summit for sunrise, the ascent takes four to five hours across mixed terrain. Beginning with a steep climb to the top of a moraine, the trail oscillates between gentle footpaths and strenuous scrambling until you reach the glacier. Once roped up and crampons fitted, you’ll have another three hours of moderate incline on the glacier to reach the summit. You’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of some of the highest peaks in the Cordillera Blanca such as, Alpamayo, Caraz, Huascaran, Chopicalqui, and Yanapaccha.

Need to know

Although I love the freedom and adventure of trekking independently, I decided to go with a guide as I am not yet qualified to navigate glacial trekking and mountaineering equipment myself. The summit push is not extremely steep or technical, however it is still physically demanding due to the altitude. If you are considering going without a guide, prior mountaineering experience and snow condition knowledge is imperative. There are crevasses, unexpected steep sections of built-up snow that change with the season, and of course the standard risks that accompany any exposed, glacial trekking.

Pisco Base Camp trek

Rachel Schneider

• Difficulty: Moderate-strenuous
• Distance: 11 km
• Duration: Two days
• Max elevation: 4,700 m
• Start/end point: Cebollapampa
• Accommodation: Mountain hut

Short and sweet with spectacular alpine scenery, Pisco Base Camp is a simple and moderate-to-strenuous (due to the altitude) trek with 800 metres of elevation gain. It’s a great option for those looking for an easier climb in higher altitude, as there are no technical rock scrambles or strenuous slogging over moraines and loose ground.

Starting in the village of Cebollapampa, the trailhead is located 2.5 hours from Huaraz. A short three hour hike of steady incline takes you to the base camp at 4,700 metres. The base camp has a comfortable yet modest mountain hut built by an Italian organisation, Mato Grosso. Surrounded by the snowy giants of the Cordillera Blanca, you’ll be treated to incredible scenery and feel fully immersed in the mountains.

Need to know

If you’re accustomed to trekking and navigating independently, have experience hiking in the high mountains, and have prior knowledge of AMS symptoms, you do not necessarily need a guide to reach Pisco Base Camp. However, if you’re new to high mountain and independent trekking, I'd strongly recommended you hire a guide.

The Inca Trail

Heather Jasper

• Difficulty: Strenuous
• Duration: Four days
• Max elevation: 4,215 metres (13,828 ft)
• Accommodation: Camping
• Start/end point: KM82 to Machu Picchu

The Inca Trail is easily the most famous of all the Peru treks. Since it first opened, it’s been included in every roundup of the world’s best trekking routes, and for good reason. There’s something profoundly magical about making this pilgrimage, as the Inca once did from Cusco to Machu Picchu.

Only on this classic route can you actually arrive at the famous ruins on foot. For any of the so-called alternative Inca Trail treks, the route will finish at a different point, and you’ll arrive in Machu Picchu via train to Aguas Calientes.

Although you’ll certainly see your share of stunning landscapes as you head from the mountains to the high jungle, this trek is particularly known for its stop-offs at numerous Inca sites along the way. While you’ll be sharing the path with a great number of other tourists, porters, cooks, and guides, you can still snatch some private moments to take in the scenery, not to mention the history, of the trail.

For me, a major downside to the Inca Trail is its deeply problematic workers' rights concerns. Be sure to book with a responsible operator, or consider one of the alternatives.