The Caucasus Travel Guide - Horizon Guides

Things to do
Guides
Trips
Travel Companies
Places

Stretching from the Black Sea in the west to the Caspian Sea in the east, the Caucasus region takes in Armenia, Azerbaijan and Georgia, alongside the Russian republics of Chechnya, North Ossetia and Dagestan.

The bridge between Asia and Europe, Islam and Christianity, adventurous visitors come to the Caucasus countries for hiking through deep gorges and over mountain passes, incredible religious architecture and fine Georgian wine.

Hidden gems in The Caucasus

Syunik

Mount Khustup ascent

Nune Taunts

Experience

Beyond the semi-famous and popular Mount Aragats climb, pretty much any walking holiday in Armenia will feel like you're well off the beaten path – none more so than in the little visited Syunik province in the country's south, near the Iranian border. While the crowds flock to Aragats, I usually recommend those with the time and a sense of adventure to head south and climb Mount Khustup instead. This is a true hidden gem that takes you deep into the rugged landscapes of Syunik, about 350 kilometres from Yerevan. This trip requires careful planning, with at least two full days of travel by car. The hike itself is a full-day ascent through steep and rocky terrain, offering wonderful panoramic views from the summit. Khustup holds deep cultural and historical significance for Armenians who regard the mountain as sacred for its key role in protecting the Syunik region from invasion. One of Armenia’s national heroes, Garegin Nzhdeh, is buried on its slopes, adding to its symbolic importance. But the main appeal comes from the amazing scenery, unpredictable conditions, and the immense sense of accomplishment upon reaching the summit.

Racha

Imereti to Racha trek

Baia Dzagnidze

Experience

Difficulty: ModerateDuration: Two to three daysStart/end point: Drbo to OniAccommodation: Camping This almost unknown trail connects two regions—Imereti and Racha—through dense forests, peaceful valleys, and towering alpine cliffs. It offers picturesque views, wildflower meadows, and isolation from populated areas. The highlight of this hike is the panoramic views of Caucasus Mountain while walking on the ridge leading to the King Tamar cliffs, as well as extensive views over the Imerti plains. The path goes through old shepherd trails, found and improved by the Transcaucasian Trail team, creating a longer Imereti to Racha route. However, the trek is still unmarked and not well maintained. Therefore, you need to navigate with GPS trackers. Need to know The path is mostly straightforward and not technical, with some steep stretches, river crossings, and leftover snow on higher slopes. However, prepare to spend an almost full day walking. The trail rejoins a dirt road several times for a short while and has substantial climbs uphill. Many springs on the trail are seasonal, so it's essential to fill up with water at every opportunity. Also, be prepared to carry plenty between the undried springs. Be strategic where you camp, as there are limited flat areas to set up the tent. May to July and September to October are preferred times to hike. You will need a tent, proper camping equipment, and food for the entire hike. How to get to Drbo First, get to Sachkhere, a 20-minute drive from Drbo, with a marshrutka from Tbilisi's Didube Bus Station. The first van leaves at 9 am. There are vans from Kutaisi, too. From Sachkhere, hire a taxi, hitchhike, or walk 10km to the trailhead. How to leave Oni Several marshrutkas go to Kutaisi daily, but one goes directly to Tbilisi. I recommend asking around or your host for the exact timings.

Racha

Udziro Lake trek

Baia Dzagnidze

Experience

Difficulty: ModerateDuration: Two to three daysStart/end point: Shovi to GlolaAccommodation: Camping This little-known but gorgeous hike to the small alpine lake of Udziro at an elevation of 2,800m is an excellent alternative to busy hikes and popular destinations in Georgia. Clear skies, pleasant weather, and unusually shaped mountains make for a breathtaking panorama of the Caucasus range. The drawback is the logistics of getting to/from the start and end points with public transport. A short trek takes two or three days, starting in the village of Shovi and finishing in Glola. Despite the small distance, it’s a challenging trail with a lot of ascent and descent. I suggest doing it in three days to enjoy the surroundings without being rushed. Need to know Starting from Shovi is a popular choice and often advertised as such, but it has steep uphills over rocky terrain in some parts. However, you are treated with panoramic views of the Caucasus as you descend to the lake. Nevertheless, I prefer to hike the other way, as the ascent is not too steep. The trail is well-marked and easy to follow, but a few patches of overgrown plants make it slightly hard to navigate, so you should have an offline map app on your phone. The hike is doable only from late June, when the snow on Geske Pass melts, until late September. You can stay in Shovi or Glola before/after the hike but need full camping gear on the trek. How to get to Shovi First, get to Oni from the Didube Bus Station in Tbilisi. The marshrutka leaves at 8 am. From Oni, you can get a taxi or hitchhike. Alternatively, you can take a marshrutka to Amboraluri, the central city of Racha, and find transportation to Shovi. How to leave Glola Glola is the village next door to Shovi, so you'd need to ask around for transportation or try hitchhiking.

Svaneti

Svaneti to Racha trek

Baia Dzagnidze

Experience

Difficulty: StrenuousDuration: Three to four daysStart/end point: Zeskho to GhebiAccommodation: Camping The trek from Zeskho, in Svaneti, to Ghebi, in Racha, is quite challenging but very beautiful. You should be comfortable hiking six to seven hours a day through some of the most isolated parts of the Caucasus, offering stunning views of the Rioni River valley, Edena Peak, and Sasvano lakes. Need to know Some sections of the trail require river crossings (big and small) and tackling hilly ascents and descents, with frequent elevation changes as it transits two steep mountain passes. You also walk on a narrow, slightly rocky mountain ridge with lofty slopes. Additionally, parts of the trek follow an old car road once connecting these two regions, but the road is almost lost with landslides, desertion, and overgrown flora. The dense Tskhenistskali Valley, with verdant plants and bushes, is the trickiest part. It almost covers the trail and makes it easy to miss. Therefore, hiking from Svaneti to Racha is recommended only for confident navigators. This area is remote, with no shelters or guesthouses, so a tent is necessary. You must have a passport or ID for a border checkpoint at the mountaineering centre. How to get to Zeskho, Svaneti You will need to book a taxi transfer from Mestia or Ushguli. You can hitchhike, but this road is rarely used by cars, and if you see one, it will be full. How to leave Ghebi, Racha The marshrutka from Ghebi to Oni departs only on Thursdays at 9 am and 6 pm. Otherwise, you'd need to hitchhike or take a taxi.

Kakheti region

Black Rock Lake trek

Baia Dzagnidze

Experience

Difficulty: ModerateDuration: Two to three daysStart/end point: Lagodekhi/LagodekhiAccommodation: Huts/cabins This is a well-maintained and waymarked circular trek in Lagodekhi National Park. Agriculture and hunting are forbidden in the national park, making it ideal for observing the country's flora and fauna in their most natural and wild state. There’s a rare chance to spot wildlife, but it might happen. It's an unpopular trail with a few tourists. I loved the tranquillity of the trail and the info boards of local plants and animals residing here. The only drawback is that there are few water spots, so you need to carry plenty. Need to know Before the hike, you must register at the Visitor Center inside the national park and pay camping/cabin fees. Ask for updated information about the trails and springs (some run dry in summer). A tent is not necessary, but you'll need all the other trekking equipment including gas (for the second cabin in the alpine zone), plenty of water, and food. Bring a passport or ID for the border checkpoint. The path is difficult and involves quite a vertical gain, but nothing too challenging. How to get to Lagodekhi From Tbilisi, marshrutkas to Lagodekhi depart from Isani Bus Station hourly. The first one departs at 7:40 am. The journey is about three hours. Marshrutkas from Telavi and Rustavi are also available. How to leave Lagodekhi Marshrutkas to Tbilisi depart from Lagodekhi Bus Station at 45-minute intervals. The first van departs at 6:45 am and the last at 5:30 pm. Several marshrutkas depart to Rustavi and Telavi each day.

Samegrelo & Tobavarchkhili

Tobavarchkhili lakes

Baia Dzagnidze

Experience

Difficulty: StrenuousDuration: four to five daysStart/end point: Mukhuri to KhaishiAccommodation: Camping Tobavarchkhili, meaning "Silver Lake" in Megrelian (a language spoken in Samegrelo), refers to the complex of lakes in the Samegrelo region, western Georgia. You pass rocky gorges, waterfalls, alpine meadows, and shepherd huts with the chance to glimpse Mt. Elbrus on a clear day. Starting from Mukhuri village, a jeep transfer to Natipuru at 2,000 metres can save you a long (20km), unscenic first day on a rough dirt road. Expect to pay 250-300 GEL for the transfer. However, landslides and unpredictable weather often block the road, so keep a buffer day in your schedule. Need to know This 45-km trek is one of the most challenging in Georgia. Depending on your route, pace, and weather, it takes four to five days. It includes high passes, steep elevation changes, river crossings, snow and ice-covered slopes even in summer, and some hard-to-follow paths. There is also no mobile coverage. Therefore, I recommend you hike with an experienced guide who has taken this trail several times before. Alternatively, you can hire a horse to carry the luggage to ease the hike. Rain and fog are frequent at Egrisi Mountains, so be prepared and have another buffer day to fully enjoy the lakes. For the best conditions, aim for late July to mid-September. The area lacks shelters, so you will need a tent, proper hiking gear, and enough food for the trip. The trek also has an alternative, shorter route from Skuri. It's even more challenging, and the logistics can be complicated. How to get to Mukhuri First, get to Zugdidi, the capital of Samegrelo. From the bus station by the bridge (not the one at the train station), the marshrutka (a minibus) departs for Mukhuri at 9 am, taking two hours. Hiring a taxi will get you there in an hour. Ask the driver to drop you off at Lugela Spring to reduce the less scenic walk by 7km. How to leave Khaishi Marshturkas that head to Mestia or Zugdidi daily pass by Khaishi but are usually full. Failing that, you might need a taxi or hitchhike.

Svaneti

Alternative Mestia to Ushguli trek route

Baia Dzagnidze

Experience

The standard Mestia to Ushguli trek is one of the most popular multi-day hikes in Georgia – the only downside is it can feel busy during peak season! I much prefer this alternative route to Ushguli via Tsvirmi which avoids the worst of the crowds. Like the standard route it's moderate difficulty and can be done in three days, staying in guest houses overnight. The route From Mestia, you ascend onto the Zuruldi massif, then descend to the village of Tsvirmi, head to the Tetnuldi ski resort before merging with the classic trail to Ushguli via Adishi on day three and finish with Iprali to Ushguli on day four. I prefer this path because it offers much more pleasing scenery from the beginning and fewer hikers. The only downside is that the start of the first (if you can't take the cable car) and the second days are less scenic. From the cable car's top, the path goes to Zuruldi Ridge, where incredible panoramic vistas open up. The descent to Tsvimri goes through a steep forest with several vertical drops at some places. The beginning of the Tsvimri-Tetnuldi resort path follows the main road of Mestia-Ushguli - the least favourite part of the trek, but the views of Mt. Ushba make up for it. Need to know Guesthouses along the way offer a comfortable stay with meals. I love hiking this trail in September when the crowds are smaller, the weather is still warm, and the landscapes are gorgeous. June through October is generally a good time for this hike. You can take the new cable car from Mestia to the top of Zuruldi Ridge to skip the more challenging and least picturesque part. However, be prepared that the cable car might be closed, and you would still have to hike the unappealing first part of the trail. I suggest enquiring with the host in Mestia