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Visitors planning their first trip to Australia tend to make the same mistake. They book a fortnight, plot a route from Sydney to Perth with a few stops in between, and arrive to discover that the drive alone would take four days. Australia is not a country you "do". It is a continent, and it will make you feel the difference.

New Zealand, by contrast, is compact enough to reward that instinct - but only just. The two islands pack in a range of landscapes that would embarrass countries ten times their size: fjords, volcanoes, glaciers, surf beaches, all within a few hours of each other.

What unites them, beyond geography and shared history, is a quality of space that is increasingly rare. Empty roads, uncrowded coastlines, wilderness that actually feels wild. In Australia especially, that landscape carries a history going back 60,000 years - one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on earth. Most visitors come for the scenery and leave without ever touching it. That's a shame, because it's genuinely interesting.

Come for the landscapes, by all means. But both countries punish the traveller in a hurry.

Hidden gems in Australasia

Kahurangi National Park

Wangapeka Valley trek

Geoff Spearpoint

Experience

With beech forested valleys, high, wild tussock tops, and expansive views into the centre of Kahurangi National Park, this seven-day hike involves classic tramping on a grand scale. Enriching that experience, many of the tracks, including the Wangapeka itself, were originally benched for gold miners over a century ago. So here there is history intertwined with great tramping in remote mountains, side tracks to investigate along the way and options to lengthen or shorten the trip as you go. The main Wangapeka track, leading from Tapawera in the east to the Karamea Highway in the west, is a great trip in its own right. So is the journey that branches off halfway through to follow the Karamea River north towards Golden Bay. But the trip I have chosen to outline has a bit of it all. The routeWangapeka Valley trek – Geoff Spearpoint This is a circular hike that starts and ends in Wangapeka Valley west of Tapawera, Nelson District. Beginning at the carpark in the Wangapeka Valley west of Tapawera, it climbs Chummies track to John Reid Hut, then traverses open tops past Mt Patriarch to beech forest at Kiwi Saddle. Beyond Kiwi Saddle the route leads onto the Luna Tops, follows down Stone Creek before crossing the Biggs Tops and dropping down into the head of the Karamea River. From the open flats in the head of the Karamea River, a couple of marked routes lead back towards the main Wangapeka track and valley, which is followed back to the carpark. There are plenty of huts to stay in along the way, but there are also stunning places to camp like the Biggs Tops. Up to you. Some of the highlights include an ascent of Mt Patriarch, which is a must if the weather is fine. It is quite a scramble, but you will find yourself sitting with an ocean of mountains in every direction. Highlights Down in the quiet at Kiwi Saddle the native birds come into their own. Wekas skulking around looking for opportunities, robins making it clear they own the place, tomtits tweedling away, and fantails swooping on disturbed insects. The Biggs Tops are about as sweet as it gets, with spectacular views across to the rugged bulk of Mt Kendall. The head of the mighty Karamea River is a benign place of light, grass flats and white granite gravel, but all the signs of the Murchison Earthquake of 1929 are still there. Huge slips still rip down off the ridges, still witnessing the devastation of almost a century ago. The Karamea and Wangapeka rivers run like liquid quartz over the stones, clear as diamond. Cecil King’s historical hut is a sneak peek into history on the descent down the valley back to the car. Need to know This is a moderately tough hike, you’ll need to be fit and capable, at times hiking over very rough ground. I’d say it’s suitable for those who have already been on great walks and several rougher tracks in the New Zealand back country. Navigational skills are required as is good gear to cope with bad weather in isolated places, and you’ll need to be entirely self sufficient.

Mt Aspiring National Park

Gillespie Pass trek

Geoff Spearpoint

Experience

The Otago Alps have an exquisite blend of grass flats, mature beech forest, gorges cut deep into stable schist bedrock and mountains that rear up from valley walls into castles and turrets decked in active glaciers and icefalls. It is carved artwork on a grand and visually appealing scale full of fascination and gorgeous places. I rate it very highly, and this Gillespie Pass hike has a bit of it all. The routeGillespie Pass trek - Geoff Spearpoint Begin this four to five day trip at the Blue Pools in the Makarora Valley beside SH6. Bridges cross the Makarora, Blue, Ore and Leven on a track that leads to the Young Valley after about 2.5 hrs. An alternative more direct access exists, but it involves fording the Makarora River, which is really deceptive even when running clear, and has claimed many lives. It is much better to enjoy the spectacular Blue Pools along the way and remove the risk. Alternatively, a jet boat service from Makarora can help with both Young and Wilkin access. From the Young Makarora confluence, follow the established Gillespie Pass circuit track up the Young Valley to the North South Forks, where another suspension bridge crosses the North Young. In a clearing here, surrounded by silver beech trees, there is an established campsite, and further up there is a 20 bunk hut. Both this hut and Siberia Hut need to be booked through the Department of Conservation website in the summer months. Above here, the track continues to a gorgeous tussock basin surrounded by high rock walls, overseen by Mt Awful at 2,192 metres. It is wonderful country. In spring and summer alpine flowers fill the valley. In winter, major avalanches roar off the valley walls. Now a steep climb begins, easier to go up than down for most, leading onto the range a kilometre south of Gillespie Pass. Poles mark the route in the tussock. This is a steep spur in places, best done when it is dry and the winter snow has gone. The track now follows the tops for a while, with great mountain views including Mt Alba across the Siberia Valley. Alpine Crucible Lake nestles right under the east face of this peak and has a good track leading to it, an excellent day out. Down in the Siberia valley, the trip follows grass flats to Siberia Hut, then later a benched track in silver beech forest down a gorge to forks with the Siberia and Wilkin Valleys. Here, you need an exit strategy. Meeting a prearranged jet boat, or negotiating from a weak position for a ride back out if the Wilkin Jetboat has room, or walking out down the track on the north bank are the options. But walking still carries the problem of fording the Makarora or the Young River to get back to the highway. The upper Wilkin Valley is also a paradise of its own with some great day trips from Top Forks Hut, and is also well worth a trip. Major volunteer trapping programmes for predator control are underway throughout the whole area to help support our native birdlife.

New Zealand

Hokitika backcountry hike

Geoff Spearpoint

Experience

Here be dragons… This journey takes you into the wild West Coast, where the mountains are serious and the travel uncompromising. But the rewards are high too, with spectacular scenery, dense forest, schist bluffs, deep gorges and high tops. Choose fine weather. This is not a trip to approach when the forecast is bad. The huts, mostly two to six bunk, are nicely spaced, but having some form of tent or fly will be very useful. The route Hokitika backcountry hike route – Geoff Spearpoint The trip will take about five days, and begins in the lower Hokitika River along the lower Whitcombe Valley track. At Frews Creek it leaves the Whitcombe, and heads up over Frews Saddle into the very head of the upper Hokitika River. The Main Divide at Mathias Pass is easy to reach on a side trip from here if you want. The marked route descends the upper Hokitika to forks with Mungo River, then heads up valley to Toaroha Saddle. The trip finishes with a descent of the whole Toaroha Valley to the road. The Toaroha is particularly scenic, with slot gorges, upper flats near Top Toaroha Hut and at Cedar Flats lower down there is a good hot pool beside Wren Creek. The Department of Conservation describes this track in reverse in a useful online brochure, Toaroha, Hokitika, lower Whitcombe Track. More information can be found on the Remote Huts website. One of the features of this trip is the opportunity to see rare native birds in their own habitat. Whio (Blue Duck) live in rapid streams and rivers, curious Kea, or mountain parrot, wheel and cry on the tops, and Tuke (Rock Wren) bob on boulders in the tussock. The upper Hokitika River flows down an old glaciated tussock basin before plunging almost 500 metres in a distance of one kilometre to meet the Mungo River. Bluff Hut is well named and anchored to weathered old stable bedrock, with expansive views across to the Diedrichs Range. On the way down, you may notice rock crevasses cutting deeply into the hillside. Snow sits on Main Divide peaks here all year, though by early autumn not much may be visible. Need to know This route is all tracked and major crossings bridged, but that doesn't mean it is easy, and getting through will leave a high sense of achievement. There is quite a bit of streambed travel in places, and being nimble on your feet amongst the boulders will help immensely. Summer and autumn are the best times for this trip, when there is unlikely to be snow on the route, the weather is usually more stable, and stream levels are easier to negotiate. One thing to be aware of is that near the beginning of the trip there is a cable cage crossing of the Hokitika River near Rapid Creek Hut. This is fine for two or more people, and it is designed to be managed alone, but in practice this will be very difficult for some to manage alone. Travel with a friend or two.

Lake Sumner Forest Park

Nina Lewis circuit hike

Geoff Spearpoint

Experience

The Lewis Pass area in Lake Sumner Forest Park is filled with attractive valleys and wonderful tussock tops, but the Nina River, flowing out towards Canterbury, is a standout for me. Emerald river water, beech forest that reminds me of Fangorn in Lord of the Rings, and an easy introduction on a good track make this a great place to start a trip. From here, we head south, crossing two ranges and end up back on the Lewis Pass Road, about 15 kilometres from where we started, taking about four or five days. Crossing the tussock ranges gives high, wide views and opportunities to explore the alpine flora. Celmisias, Edelweiss, and later in the season, gentians. Down in the valleys, grass flats, magnificent mature beech forest, and the occasional stunning gorge with deep pools offer places to swim and linger. But not too long, or the sandflies will come looking, looking, biting, biting... The route Nina Lewis circuit route map – Geoff Spearpoint The first day we head up the Nina Valley to the tops and Devils Den biv (hut), but maybe take a tent as the biv only has two bunks and others may be there. A marked route leads down Devilskin Stream into the Doubtful River. Upstream from here pick up the Kedron River track onto the Doubtful Range, where the second night will be in or around the Lake Man biv. Leading down Pussy Stream, the track continues to the open Hope Valley. Here, there is a side trip that leads to Hot Spring Stream, where you can soak in a section of the creek, always a welcome extra on a tramping trip. Or you can head down valley, and follow the Hope Kiwi track out to the shelter beside the Lewis Pass Road at Windy Point. Photo: Geoff Spearpoint Need to know For the Southern Alps this is mellow country, and there are tracks and huts along the route. While this basic trip has lots of interest, there is ample opportunity to add another couple of days and visit Lake Sumner as well. For this, Hope Kiwi Lodge offers handy initial overnight accommodation, and from there a loop via the Hope Kiwi track and Lake Sumner shore, returning along the Three Mile Stream track back to the lodge over a couple of days, is a great option. This is a rich tramping experience, a little different to the basic trip, where extensive Kowhai groves flower in early spring, and the red beech forest along the lakeshore is nothing short of stately. In the Hurunui valley opposite Mackenzie Stream there is another hot spring just off the Harper Pass track, but this is a little out of the way for the loop. I’ve always found the return to Hope Kiwi Lodge along the Three Mile Stream track brimming with wonderful birdlife, parakeets, kaka, robins, tomtits, fantails, bellbirds, and many others. Then you are back at Hope Kiwi Lodge, ready to follow the Hope Kiwi track down the Hope Valley to the Windy Point carpark by SH7.

Coromandel Peninsula

Coromandel Coastal Walkway day hike

Rudolf Abraham

This is a lovely coastal walkway which sees a fraction of the visitors hiking those better known coastal treks which are included among the Great Walks. Starting in Stony Bay and finishing in Fletcher Bay, the 20 km hike reveals beautiful coastlines, sprawling farmland, and regenerating native forest. The track is undulating but not excessively challenging, suitable for those of moderate fitness levels. The walkway offers impressive views of the Great Barrier Island and the Pacific Ocean, with Poley Bay as a noteworthy highlight.

Aoraki Mount Cook National Park

Hooker Valley Track day hike

Rudolf Abraham

Rangitoto Island

Rangitoto Island day hike

Rudolf Abraham

It’s simple: if you’re in Auckland, go for a hike on Rangitoto Island – I mean it’s not every day you get to go for an easy hike on a volcano. Unquestionably my favourite day out from Auckland (along with the West Coast beaches). Starting from Rangitoto Wharf, after a ferry ride from Auckland, the trek ends at the summit of Rangitoto Island, which provides spectacular 360-degree views of Auckland and the Hauraki Gulf. The trail is well marked and gradually ascends through lava fields and the world's largest pohutukawa forest. Although the trek is generally easy, some sections can be moderate due to the steep ascent. The island has no accommodation, making this a perfect day trip. The highlight is definitely the volcanic scenery and the magnificent view from the summit.