Sri Lanka
Ancient civilisation and endless beaches
From ancient ruins to a vibrant and welcoming contemporary culture; from lazy afternoons on glorious beaches to hikes through the rolling hills of tea country and wild elephant spotting in untouched national parks; this is a destination that truly has it all.
Despite having its hard-won stability rocked by the tragic events of Easter 2019, Sri Lanka's tourism infrastructure is developing in leaps and bounds. Hospitality is warm and abundant, transport is convenient, and accommodation — particularly in the independent boutique sector — is world-class.
Hidden gems in Sri Lanka
Ella
Hike the Pekoe Trail
Sri Lanka’s central hills are the gateway to the island’s picturesque tea country. The undulating forest- and tea-dominated terrain is a great way for families to bond while exploring by foot. Tour operators can organise guided day hikes in tea country. For something a little different take a look at the Pekoe Trail. This 186-mile trail winds its way through tea country from Kandy to Nuwara Eilya and was designed to foster slow travel within this historic and beautiful part of the island. The trail’s 22 stages are described clearly in an app and provide plenty of useful pointers so you can explore independently. Each stage takes between three to five hours and navigates pine forests, high altitude grasslands, lakes and swirling tea fields (including Loolecondera, Sri Lanka’s first tea estate, established by James Taylor in 1867). Stages can be hiked separately or combined by staying at local guesthouses. Stage 16 passes through Ella – where you can also go zip-lining – and, along with 15 and 17, are some of the easiest on the trail. Other family-friendly stretches include stage one (Kandy) and stage seven (Hatton).
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Arugam Bay
Surfing at Arugam Bay
On the remote south-eastern coast of the island, Arugam Bay is the last word when it comes to surfing in Sri Lanka. Counted among the top surfing destinations in the world, “A-Bay” boasts large swells that wash up to its shore from Antarctica and a number of right-hand breaks that are suitable for beginners as well as more advanced surfers. About 30 km from Kumana National Park is the country’s top bird sanctuary, Arugam Bay. The natural beauty here is stunning. Tucked away in a distant part of the island, A-Bay is a seven or eight-hour drive by car or an overnight ride by luxury bus from Colombo. Not yet as developed as the southern coast, A-Bay has just a handful of hotels. The best time to visit is between May and November. Hiriketiya, a horseshoe-shaped bay just 10 minutes from the town of Dickwella along the south coast, is a great testing ground for novice surfers. Regarded as one of the country’s most picturesque beaches, Hiriketiya is shrouded from view by a coconut grove. It has a year-round surf break that makes it ideal for those learning to ride the waves. The beach has a few shacks selling fresh juices and renting beach beds. Visit between December and April.
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Pigeon Island National Park
Diving at Pigeon Island
For snorkelling and diving, there are few better locations than Pigeon Island National Park, just off the coast of Trincomalee, a popular beach town on the east coast of the island. One of two national marine parks in the country, Pigeon Island is surrounded by shallow waters and an abundance of marine life, including corals, shoals of colourful fish, and even the odd sea turtle. The beach itself is narrow in parts and can get crowded at weekends and holidays with visitors who make the 1 km boat trip from Trinco (as it is fondly known). A number of private scuba operators along the Nilaveli beach in Trinco organise round trips to Pigeon Island throughout the day. The Nilaveli Private Boat Service, run by an association of local boat owners, also organises round trips at a fixed rate of LKR (Sri Lanka rupee) 2,000 ($13). You can also rent snorkelling gear for a small fee. Entry tickets to the park cost $10 per person and $8 for a group, and are available at the Pigeon Island ticket office on Nilaveli beach. Pigeon Island can get very crowded in the peak season, between May and September, so make sure you book a boat in advance.
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Tangalle
Hidden gems of the south
Despite its greater popularity, there are still plenty of unspoilt beaches on the southern coast. Most people don’t bother making the trek to Tangalle, which means that the beaches in and around this coastal town are among the most pristine you will find down south. Beaches between the towns of Galle and Tangalle are generally long, wide and sandy. Some of my personal favourites would be Kabalana, Mawella and the sublime horseshoe cove of Hiriketiya. A 10-minute tuk-tuk ride from Tangalle, Goyambokka beach boasts clean sands bordered by the country’s signature coconut palms, clean waters and an unhurried vibe. Large hotels are still few and far between in these parts, but a number of restaurants along the beach offer fresh seafood, beer and thambili or king coconut water. Closer than Tangalle but almost as untouched, Talalla is another beach worth visiting. A long, crescent-shaped beach partially hidden from view by a thicket of shrubby trees, Talalla is clean – if underdeveloped – and ideal for an offbeat holiday. A few shacks on the beach offer refreshments and you can also rent beach beds for a small fee. The currents here can be quite rough, so it is best to check conditions beforehand. Talalla is just over three hours from Colombo by car via the Southern Expressway, while Tangalle takes half an hour longer. The ideal time to visit both these beaches is between December and April.
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Jaffna
Casuarina beach
Only just opening up to outsiders after decades of civil war, the beaches surrounding Jaffna, at the northernmost tip of the country, are superb, isolated – and, at least for now, refreshingly non-commercial. Named after a grove of casuarina trees that border the shore, Casuarina is the best known of these beaches. With placid waters and a sandy stretch devoid of people, especially on weekdays, Casuarina makes for a perfect day trip from Jaffna. There are changing facilities, toilets and a few kiosks on the beach, but it would be advisable to bring your own picnic basket. There are hardly any hotels or guest houses in the area, so Jaffna might be your best bet for accommodation. Casuarina is about 20 km from Jaffna on the island of Karaitivu, which is connected to the mainland by a causeway. You can get there with a rental car or local bus from Jaffna; alternatively, a quality tour operator will be able to help with transport. Jaffna is easily reached from Colombo by road or train (it’s an approximately six-hour trip). The best time to visit is between May and September.
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Jaffna
Nainativu island
Of the many islands scattered off the coast of Jaffna, Nainativu – or Nagadeepa as it is also known – holds a special religious significance for Hindus and Buddhists. Believed to have once been home to a legendary tribe called the Nagas, Nainativu is best known for the Nagapooshani Amman Kovil, an ancient temple dedicated to Parvati, the consort of Shiva, the Hindu god of destruction. Nainativu’s importance is heightened by the fact that it is mentioned in both ancient Tamil and Buddhist literature. Apart from the temple, the island’s other religious attraction is the Nagadeepa Purana Vihara, which is counted among the holiest Buddhist shrines in the country. Legend has it that the Buddha visited the Nagadeepa Vihara on Bakmaha Poya, or the full moon day in April. Getting to Nainativu is an adventure in itself, and one that requires a degree of fortitude. The journey involves taking a bus or car from Jaffna to Kurikadduwan (KKD) jetty, some 36 km away, and then taking a ferry to the island. The ferries run at regular intervals but are notorious for being overcrowded, so keep that in mind when planning your trip. June and July are the most colourful months of the year to visit Nainativu – the temple hosts a 16-day thiruvizha festival during this period. Check the festival dates beforehand, and expect large crowds.
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Sri Lanka
Lesser-known train journeys
Travelling by train in Sri Lanka is a fun activity for the whole family. It is one of the cheapest ways to travel yet offers a rich insight into the Sri Lankan way of life. The most enchanting journey is along the Main Line, which weaves through the island’s dramatic mountainous region. Thanks to its incredible views it is also the most popular – sometimes uncomfortably so – route, particularly the long 5.5 hour journey between Kandy and Ella. My advice: either do it in reverse (quieter) or take fidgety youngsters on a shorter route, such as between Galle and Weligama on the ocean-glimpsing Coastal Line. Less touristy than the Main Line route is the service between Colombo and Jaffna. Once a lifeline connecting the two cities, the route was suspended for nearly 25 years during the country’s civil war. When the Yal Devi or Queen of Jaffna – an iconic train that plied the route for more than 40 years – resumed its run in 2014 after extensive track repairs, it became one of the most telling signifiers of the end of the war. This journey is the most memorable way to see the distinct shifts in the landscape as you travel to the country’s northernmost reaches. It offers you glimpses of nondescript villages, lush paddy fields and the arid northern countryside, inaccessible until recently. It is a journey that is likely to give you pause – and a break from the brochure-ready beauty of most of Sri Lanka. With its non-air conditioned coaches and vendors supplying a steady stream of snacks, the Yal Devi makes for a leisurely 10-hour ride. But if you’d prefer air-conditioned comfort, the speedy Inter-City Express is a better bet. The train service to Jaffna is a popular one, so it is advisable to buy tickets in advance from a railway station in Colombo (or in Jaffna, for the return trip). Tickets cannot be bought online, but a reputed travel agent should be able to arrange them for you. Don’t be tempted to travel first class, which isn’t as indulgent as it sounds. Second- and third-class carriages have better views (first-class trains are air-conditioned so you can’t open the windows) and offer a better chance of interacting with local people.
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Horton Plains National Park
Hiking in Horton Plans
Nuwara Eliya may now be an overdeveloped mess, but it is the gateway to one of the most unique landscapes in the country. Approximately 30 km uphill from the city is the Horton Plains National Park, a protected grassland spread out over a vast plateau that makes for a fascinating and moderately intense trek. A microcosm of Sri Lanka’s diverse topography, Horton Plains is marked by scrawny shrubbery interspersed with green hills and dense cloud forests. The 10-km trek winds through a rugged forest path that leads to a sheer precipice called the World’s End, and culminates in the Baker’s Falls, one of the park’s chief attractions. While not particularly challenging, the three-hour-long trek requires stamina and some agility. The ideal time to visit Horton Plains is at dawn when low-hanging clouds lift to reveal the park’s surreal landscape. After 10am, the view from World’s End is likely to be obscured by cloud cover. The trip to Horton Plains and back takes half a day (or longer, depending on the length of your trek), so stay in Nuwara Eliya for two days. Your hotel should be able to help you book a van or SUV for the return journey. Note that low-clearance cars are likely to struggle on the bumpy road to the top. It’s best to visit Horton Plains during the dry months, between January and March.
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Kalpitiya
Kitesurfing in Kalpitiya
A backwater compared to the more popular tourist spots around the country, Kalpitiya, on the northwestern coast, has slowly built a reputation for its kitesurfing. It is at the tip of a slender finger of land sticking out into the Indian Ocean, with a lagoon on its eastern side. While the relatively gentle winds and calm waters of the lagoon make it a great spot for beginners, more experienced kitesurfers flock to Alankuda beach, which has stronger winds and moderate crowds. A couple of kitesurfing schools in the area provide training, rent out kites and offer basic accommodation. Check out the Sri Lanka Kite School. New kite resorts in Kalpitiya run their own schools and offer special accommodation packages for kitesurfers. Rascals Kite Resort, a rustic hotel with colourfully decorated cabanas, is run by kitesurfing enthusiasts and has direct access to the lagoon. Bar Reef Resort, an eco-conscious hotel at Alankuda beach, also offers kitesurfing lessons and excursions to nearby lagoons. For a different kind of adventure, Kalpitiya has excellent opportunities for snorkelling and dolphin spotting. It is also only a two-hour drive from Wilpattu National Park, one of the country’s premier wildlife sanctuaries, which has the largest population of leopards. It’s well worth planning a day trip to Wilpattu while you are in the area. Spend at least three nights in Kalpitiya, especially if you intend to kitesurf, and an additional day or two for other excursions. The ideal time for kitesurfing here is between May and October. Wind conditions are milder but still favourable between December and March.
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Trincomalee
Whale spotting away from the crowds
The waters around Sri Lanka are some of the best for observing blue, sperm, Bryde’s and humpback whales, with plenty of spinner, bottlenose and Risso dolphins to be seen throughout the year too. Sightings are best between November and April off the south coast. Much of the country’s whale watching industry is an unlicensed and poorly regulated free-for-all which causes immense distress and disruption to the whales’ natural behaviour. Boats race far too closely to breaching whales and illegal “swim with whale” tours are sadly prevalent. Touts might try to sell you cheap tickets but from a safety and ethical perspective, opt for a well-established operator and ask about their animal welfare policy before you book. Mirissa is the busiest launchpad for whale watching (between November and April), so you might consider quieter Kalpitiya as an alternative (though whales can be harder to spot). During the summer, whale watching shifts to the Bay of Bengal, off northeast Trincomalee. Even better: Kuchchaveli, a 3km long bay, 30-minutes’ drive north of Trincomalee, is a remote spot where just one hotel – Uga Jungle Beach – hides amidst its scrubby shoreline. The freestanding beach chalets, with outdoor showers, immersed in greenery, make the most of this seclusion. There are daily trips out to sea to spy whales and dolphins, and Trincomalee is a much less congested place to see these giants than south coast Mirissa, which has become oversubscribed and haphazardly regulated in recent years. You could also nip out by boat to Pigeon Island, Sri Lanka’s top snorkelling spot.
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Bentota
Escape Bentota and explore the mangrove forests of Madu Ganga
The beach town of Bentota, on Sri Lanka’s south-western coast and easily reached from Colombo, is a tourism hotspot – the beaches here are crowded and a tad dirty in peak season. But just half an hour’s drive from busy Bentota is one of Sri Lanka’s best-kept secrets: A dense tangle of mangrove forests on the Madu Ganga river. Part of an inland coastal wetland, they are among the last untouched mangrove forests in the country. Local operators offer boat tours that weave through the mangroves and past small river islands. Bentota is a little under two hours’ drive from Colombo so you could easily make it a day trip. Stop for a Sri Lankan rice and curry lunch at Lunuganga, country home and estate of Geoffrey Bawa, the renowned 20th century Sri Lankan architect. (Make a lunch reservation in advance; a tour of Lunuganga’s landscaped gardens is included in the entry fee.) The best time to visit this part of the country is between January and April.
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Udawalawe
Wild elephant spotting in Udawalawe National Park
With Sri Lanka’s largest wild elephant population, Udawalawe National Park is a quieter alternative to the frequently overcrowded Yala National Park. (It is also the only national park in the country where an elephant sighting is virtually assured). Just south of the Central Highlands, the park is a four-hour drive from Colombo. Eco-conscious travellers with an appetite for adventure will enjoy staying at Banyan Camp. Just outside Udawalawe’s perimeter, the lodge is built of natural materials, uses recycled furniture and eschews air-conditioning. This isn’t your average resort, so it would be prudent to expect a few surprises. The best time to visit Udawalawe is in the dry season between May and September.
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Hike the Pekoe Trail
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Surfing at Arugam Bay
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Diving at Pigeon Island
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Hidden gems of the south
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Casuarina beach
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Nainativu island
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Lesser-known train journeys
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Hiking in Horton Plans
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Kitesurfing in Kalpitiya
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Whale spotting away from the crowds
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Escape Bentota and explore the mangrove forests of Madu Ganga
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Wild elephant spotting in Udawalawe National Park
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Wreck diving in Pasikudah Bay
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Off the beaten path in tea country
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See another side to Kandy
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Polonnaruwa
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See a little-known side to Sigiriya
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Anuradhapura
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Explore Galle Fort on foot
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Visit Mihintale, cradle of Buddhism in Sri Lanka
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Explore the Ritigala ruins
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Witness Hindu festivities at Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil
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Birdwatching in the Knuckles Mountains
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Jaffna & the north
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Diving & snorkelling on the eastern coast
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See the swimming elephants of Gal Oya
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Explore secret beaches on the southern coast
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See the Cultural Triangle's underrated hidden gems
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Sri Lanka tours
Sri Lanka
Southern Sri Lanka experience
Tea, treks and Tangalle’s beaches
13 days £3,150 – £3,900 pp
South Asia
