Is there anywhere on earth more misunderstood and exoticized than Southeast Asia? Decades of backpacker lore and lazy travel writing have cemented all the obvious clichés in the public mind: the beaches, the fiery 'street' food in steamy cities, Buddhist traditions and mountaintop temples. But is this image fair? Or even real?
For every staged photo of a deserted tropical beach there are countless others struggling with the burdens of overtourism. In Southeast Asia 'street' food is just called food. Yes, mainstream culture here is grounded in its Buddhist roots, but not to the exclusion of countless ethnic minorities, lively—sometimes violent—political movements, or rocking music and vibrant creative arts scenes. Most of this is whitewashed (or just outright ignored) by mainstream tourism marketing, much to the detriment of both the people who live here and those who come to visit. Instead, Southeast Asia has become a destination that tourists "do" rather than multi-dimensional places with real people living real lives.
Nearly 10% of the world's population lives in this corner of Asia and there's so much more to see and learn than the clichés would have you believe. Slow down, break out of the luxury resorts, pull up a plastic stool and see what contemporary Southeast Asia is all about. You won't regret it!
We want to hike in Ha Giang with long hiking days but keep away from the motorbikes, what do you suggest?
Answered by: Nguyen Linh
You can do a good 4 day itinerary that gets you deep into Hmong areas where motorbikes don't reach. You start with Ha Giang – Nam Dam, trekking 12–15km (6–8 hrs) through farmland and stay in a Dao homestay. The next day it's Nam Dam – Lao Xa – Dong Van, a scenic trek featuring remote high peak views. The third day it's Dong Van – Thien Huong – Meo Vac, approximately 6 hours hiking through karst landscapes. Then the fourth day is Meo Vac – Lung Tam – Ha Giang returning to the city by 17:00.
Is it possible to extend the standard three day Ha Giang Trek to add another day of hiking?
Answered by: Nguyen Linh
Yes, you could add a day before the final day (day 3), to hike to the more remote areas of the Dong Van Karst Plateau at a more relaxed pace, adding an extra day of trekking (around 10–15 km), before continuing toward Meo Vac and picking up the usual route.
We want to see Fansipan and local culture but avoid any artificial shows. What do you suggest?
Answered by: Nguyen Linh
I'd recommend combining Fansipan cable car with a trek to a more remote village such as the Sapa to Ta Van Village trek. But to be honest Sapa has become quite touristy in recent years, and given your limited time, it may not feel as untouched as you might expect. For a less touristy area I'd recommend Ba Be National Park instead.
I am looking for a trekking adventure in remote and beautiful nature, interacting with locals, eating as local as possible. Between Sapa to Ta Van village trek, Hiking in Ba Be National Park or Ha Giang trek, what would you recommend?
Answered by: Nguyen Linh
It depends how adventurous you want to be. The Sapa to Ta Van Village trek offers stunning rice terraces and ethnic minority villages, though it’s a bit more popular and less remote. Ba Be National Park is a great off-the-beaten-path choice with jungle trails, waterfalls, caves, and peaceful lake villages where you can stay in a Tay ethnic homestay and enjoy traditional meals. The Ha Giang trek is the most adventurous option, featuring wild mountain landscapes, dramatic valleys, and deeply cultural experiences with local hill tribes.If you still can't choose, all three can be easily combined into a single itinerary from Hanoi > Sapa/Ta Van (3 days) > Ha Giang (3 days) > Ba Be (3 days) > Hanoi. I'd recommend allowing 7 to 9 days, depending on what hilkes and other activities you want to do in each stop.
It depends what you’re looking for, but I think there are three broad categories of family-friendly accommodation in Thailand:
Kid friendly resorts
You’ll find plenty of family friendly resorts with good pools in parts of Khao Lak, Krabi, Koh Lanta and Koh Chang, as well as in Bangkok. Koh Kut is truly a stunning island in the east that has quite a few family visitors. Though much smaller, Koh Ngai is also known for its family resorts.
Villa / apartment rentals
Some recommended short term rentals include Koh Jum Villas on Koh Jum, Baba Beach Resort (formerly Golden Buddha) on Koh Phra Thong, Railei Beach Club on Railay in Krabi, and Good Time Resort on Koh Mak. You’ll find plenty more on Airbnb and Agoda. Koh Samui may be too busy for some, but it's also worth a mention for its plethora of affordable villas / houses including some on the quiet side of the island along beaches like Lipa Noi and Mae Nam.
Traditional bungalows
If you came to Thailand pre-kids you probably remember sleeping under mozzie nets while fans hum and geckos roam the wall. Don't be afraid to share this quintessential Thailand travel experience with the kids! You’ll find quality family bungalows on quieter islands, for example at Jungle Hill on Koh Jum, Horizon Eco Resort on Koh Phra Thong, and the wonderful Our Jungle House in the Khao Sok valley, just to name a few.
Some Thai beaches that might be suitable for very young kids:
Koh Lanta: Khlong Dao and Ao Kantiang beaches are both family favourites.
Krabi: Noppharat Thara and Khlong Mueang are quiet; busier Ao Nang has some of the best resort swimming pools, and Railay Beach is gorgeous.
Khao Lak: several beaches with many family-oriented resorts and don't forget the sea turtle conservation centre.
Khanom: low-key mainland beach area near Koh Samui that's known for its pink dolphins.
Koh Chang: Khlong Prao beach is popular for families and I love the low-key south around Bang Bao.
For sleepy, chilled out, alternative islands with more of a Robinson Crusoe style (but often with reasonably comfy lodgings), I suggest Koh Jum, Koh Yao Noi (and Koh Yao Yai), Koh Muk (Mook).
In the East there’s Koh Mak, which is popular with families although the sandflies can be a problem there. Another that I adore is Koh Bulon Leh (or Lae), just a tiny island where some of the best beachfront is occupied by nothing but an adorable little schoolhouse.
Ultimately this depends on your baby, your itinerary, and your own comfort zones. But overall yes Thailand is perfectly safe to visit with kids of all ages. I recently met a German family doing a six month trip with a one-, three- and six-year old and they were having a great time! Aside from the general family travel advice in this guide, my most important recommendation for February/March is to stick to the southern beaches and islands, as further north the air quality can be awful at that time of year.
I think Chiang Rai would be a great choice for a large family, particularly if you're willing to splash out on tours or a private van for excursions outside the provincial capital city.
Chiang Rai is a bit further off the beaten path than Chiang Mai, but still relatively easy to reach and with plenty of local travel offices and tour operators that can assist English-speaking travellers.
The provincial capital is full of photogenic temples and museums and also has a great night market. There are loads of trips from the city, including the Tham Luang Cave that was the site of the incredible rescue of 12 boys and their football coach back in 2018. Other good options include mountain viewpoints like Doi Tung and historic Mekong River towns like Chiang Khan, or if going further up into the mountains, the tea-growing outpost of Mae Salong.
Do keep in mind that, as with virtually any mountainous area in Thailand, travelling involves winding roads with switchback turns. Also the entire north gets hit by bad air pollution late in the dry season. I do not suggest going up there in March or April and even in February the air can get bad as farmers start to burn off the stubble in their fields.
One other suggestion is Kanchanaburi, which isn't too far from Bangkok and can be fun for families especially if you're interested in the World War II history. If you go, the Hellfire Pass Memorial and Museum is not to be missed. Kanchanaburi province has some of Thailand's best waterfalls, such as Huai Mae Khamin and Erawan. While it might be too far out of the way for a large family, the lake mountain town of Sangkhlaburi is an enchanting place.
I'll suggest one destination in the Gulf of Thailand and another on the Andaman coast. Which one you choose partially depends on when you're travelling. The rainy season in the Gulf starts around Aug-Sep and lasts straight through December. Rainy season on the Andaman coast is from around May-June through October, although in recent years it seems to be starting later and lasting into Nov or even Dec.
In the Gulf, Koh Samui might work for your group because it has plenty of private house / villa rentals. These cater for many budgets, from extreme luxury on the beach to rather modest options set down inland lanes. So if you're looking for a place to all stay together in one big house, with its own kitchen and perhaps its own swimming pool, consider Samui.
The areas that are quietest and generally considered best for families are Samui's northern beaches like Bophut, Mae Nam and Bang Po, as well as southern and western beaches like Taling Ngam and Lipa Noi. Chaweng and Lamai are the two busiest beaches and both have some seedy nightlife along with techno-blasting beach parties, etc., but there are rental houses along the quieter nearby inland lanes.
On Samui you have a solid list of attractions on the island, and those who want more adventure will find some of Thailand's most dazzling islands if day tripping into the nearby Ang Thong National Park. You could hire a private boat for that or book into a group tour. Another nearby island that you might find worth a day trip is Koh Matsum, where kids often enjoy seeing the domesticated boars that live on the beach.
Meanwhile on the Andaman coast, the Khao Lak area is not far from Phuket but much quieter and without the traffic jams and seedy nightlife (to be fair, several parts of Phuket, such as Bang Tao and Kamala beaches, are also good for families). Khao Lak might work for you because there's loads to do, including day tours to nearby Similan or Surin islands, both of which are also part of national parks and also rank among the most dazzling islands in Thailand. Or you could go to the sea turtle conservation centre or, if you're really lucky, even possibly see turtles hatching on nearby Khao Lampi and Thai Mueang beaches. Other kid friendly activities here are visiting the old town market in nearby Takua Pa, a boat tour of the magnificent Phang Nga Bay, miniature golf, the butterfly farm, and the night markets and many different beaches within the Khao Lak area.
Perhaps not ideal for younger kids but worthwhile for everyone else, is a visit to the deeply moving 2004 tsunami memorial just north of Khao Lak in Ban Nam Khem.
I agree there are probably better places than Hua Hin to visit with kids, although I can see the appeal – it has good restaurants, markets and accommodation. And there are some great family-friendly day trips from Hua Hin:
One highly underrated idea is Kui Buri National Park, which is by far the best place in Thailand to spot wild elephants (as well as gaur, the world's largest bovine species). I'm 40 years old but had all the excitement of a kid when piling into the back of a pick-up truck and driving slowly down dirt tracks into the mountains, stopping often to watch the elephants in the forest and grasslands. You have close to a 100% chance of seeing wild elephants in Kui Buri National Park, whereas it's something like 10% in Khao Yai and maybe 30% in Kaeng Krachan, both of which are far better known for wildlife than Kui Buri.
Other family-friendly day trips out of Hua Hin include the Pala-U Waterfall where you also might spot wild elephants; the mangrove forest park in Pranburi where kids enjoy peeping the crabs from elevated walkways that pierce a vast mangrove forest; the Khao Tao area where Sai Noi Beach is a well-kept secret that is arguably among the best mainland beaches in all of Thailand and situated a short hike from a good viewpoint with a Buddha image; and finally the Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park which has some fabulous caves and viewpoints amid a dramatic karst mountain landscape to go with notably scenic lotus-filled wetlands on the inland side of the park.
I'd also keep Sam Roi Yot in mind as a secondary overnight destination. Just north of the park, the lengthy beach known as Hat Sam Roi Yot or Hat Phu Noi has some good family beach resorts – one called Dolphin Bay is popular thanks to its big pool with waterslides – with a much quieter and more laid-back vibe than Hua Hin.
March to April is peak burning season, and during that period Chiang Mai in the north is routinely ranked among the worst air quality on earth. Visiting Thailand with kids, I'd definitely avoid the north during that period and if you're worried about air quality, I'd probably avoid Isaan and the central region, too. Perhaps even more pressing for travelling with family, the heat can be brutal during this time.
On the other hand, the coast and islands in southern Thailand are lovely in March/April. Still hot, but with the cooling effect of the ocean to help with the kids.
If you feel like you're missing out on the north you can visit scenic mountain areas like Khao Sok and Khao Luang. And for the best family friendly beaches/islands at that time, I'd recommend Khao Lak on the Andaman coast – it's popular with families, with plentiful activities including day tours to some of Thailand's most spectacular islands, namely the Similans and Koh Surin. The Gulf side such as Koh Samui and around is also pretty in March - April.
You can get around safely without a motorbike in all of the main islands; there are usually other family-friendly forms of transport.
Some of the islands, like Chang and Samui, have songthaews (pick-up trucks with roofed benches in the back) that connect all of the main beaches, although they are pricey compared to the mainland; expect to pay at least a few hundred baht even if going a short distance.
Lanta and other islands around there (such as Jum) have salengs (sidecar motorbike taxis) which are more affordable. You'll also find tuk tuks and regular taxis in places. Or, if you have an international drivers licence and would prefer to drive yourself, car and jeep rental is available on Samui, Lanta and Chang.
Otherwise, if you want to go out you can always ask the reception staff to call a driver for you; indeed that is often the only way to find a driver on Kood. But finding a saleng on Lanta or a songthaew on Chang is typically easy in all the main areas.
I think all three of the areas you've singled out (Samui, Lanta, Chang) can be great for families with a toddler. Two weeks is plenty of time so wherever you are, you could easily spend a week at the main island and then take one of the easily available island hopping boats (dry season only) to check out some of the smaller islands. I always recommend some of those smaller islands because the beaches are often more beautiful than on the main island.
Of the three areas I personally prefer the Koh Chang Archipelago and Koh Lanta / Krabi / Trang areas because, although Koh Chang and Koh Lanta are both sizable tourist destinations, they are both more laid back and not as developed or mainstream as Koh Samui.
Although Koh Chang does have some slightly seedy nightlife on the main road near White Sand Beach, neither Chang or Lanta are as seedy as parts of Samui, around Chaweng and Lamai. (That said, the south of Samui is a whole different story and you could easily stay there and never even stop at Chaweng or Lamai if you wanted.)
One thing that Samui, Chang and Lanta have in common – and I would also say this about Koh Phangan – is that they're all beautiful but also big enough to have totally different "vibes" or "scenes" in different areas. So on any of them you can stay in a quieter area that still puts you within relatively easy access of all attractions and other parts of the islands.
If you want to do some island hopping, a slowboat from Koh Chang to Koh Mak to Koh Kood, or ferry from Krabi town to Koh Lanta and then private longtail boat around the Trang islands, would be, I think, more exciting than the larger ferries to Koh Samui / Koh Phangan / Koh Tao.
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§ 04
The Southeast Asia atlas
30 picksPlaces & Experiences You Won't Find Elsewhere
Where
What
Remote and covered in jungle, Con Dao is an archipelago of 16 islands off the southern coast. Once used by the French as a prison, the largest island offers both a sombre history lesson and some of the best independent hiking in the country.
Con Dao National Park covers 6,000 hectares of land and 14,000 hectares of the surrounding ocean. After registering with the park office, visitors can walk a number of marked forest trails that end at secluded beaches. Con Dao is also one of the best places for diving in Vietnam.
Cat Tien National Park in south Vietnam offers nature, hiking and prime bird and wildlife viewing opportunities just 160km northeast of Ho Chi Minh City. Covering 71,920 hectares and bound by the Dong Nai River, the lowland tropical rainforest and wetlands contain monkeys, civets, sambar, guar, langurs, wild crocodiles and a number of bird species like the endangered pitta. The park is also home to a Sun and Moon bear sanctuary, opening to the public in 2019. Visitors can do one-day or multi-day treks, boat trips and night safaris.
Dominating the majestic Hoang Lien Son mountain range to the west of Sa Pa is Fansipan mountain (Phan Xi Păng in Vietnamese script). At 3,147 metres, Fansipan is the highest mountain in Indochina, and its commanding position overlooking green valleys and terraced rice paddies draws hikers by the bus load, making this a popular – sometimes too popular – trek from Sa Pa town.
There are three routes to the summit, each with their own pros and cons:
Tram Ton, at 11km over two days/one night, is the fastest and most direct route to the summit. Ideal for beginners, this popular trail offers a gradual ascent, with campsites for rest and spectacular panoramic views. It’s about seven hours up to the top, and six hours down the next day.
Sin Chai is just 9km but is done over two or three days as the terrain is technical, with dense vegetation and steep sections. This is the wildest and most challenging route – for experienced trekkers only.
Cat Cat is the longest route, 20 kilometres done over three to four days. This one is another challenge, although less technical. This is my favourite route, for the complete immersion in the scenery and exceptional panoramic views.
The fourth option, which involves no real hiking at all, is to take the cable car to the summit. Personally, I find the summit itself – with its crowds of day-trippers, modern temple, shops and services – to be the least interesting part of the experience. Especially when cloud cover is obscuring the view! If your only interest is ticking off the summit without putting in the work of getting there, I’d gently steer you elsewhere.
Finally, a word of caution: trekking here is all conducted under the auspices of the Hoang Lien Son National Park authorities – even if you’ve booked through a trekking operator, they won’t have any control over the guides or porters selected for your group. There are reports of guides and workers contributing to the mountain’s growing litter problem and base camps/camping sites being poorly maintained. This isn’t to warn you off – just make sure you come with open eyes and do your bit to maintain the sanctity of the environment.
After Songkran, Thailand's other big nationwide festival is Loy Krathong, when candlelit offerings fill rivers and float through the sky in a moving ritual to release past negativity and start anew.
In the north, Loy Krathong coincides with another festival, Yi Peng, when vast clouds of paper lanterns are released into the air. It's a breathtaking sight that is certain to awe the kids. Just don't think about where all those lanterns eventually come back down to earth... Note that downtown Chaing Mai gets fairly rowdy at this time of year with lots of fireworks in the streets.
The date changes each year but it’s usually in November, always on a full moon.
The Songkran holiday is now a full-blown water war waged by hose, pistol, balloon and bucket, but it began centuries ago with more gentle water splashing which remains part of a cleansing ritual still seen at temples.
The festival runs from 13th to 15th April nationwide, although Chiang Mai adds extra soakage days and the Mon enclave of Phra Phradaeng, near Bangkok, throws its own unique style of Songkran a week later.
A word of warning: it's all good fun, but it does get boisterous and tourists are seen as prize targets. Keep your electronics indoors, and fully expect to get drenched.
The Kahayan River, immediately east of Sebangu National Park, is a real hidden gem which doesn't feature highly on most 'mainstream' orangutan-spotting itineraries. The main reason I recommend the Kahayan River to almost anyone who visits Indonesian Borneo is because it's here that you can combine wildlife spotting with real and meaningful cultural interactions with the indigenous Dayak people which is, I believe, key to ensuring the long-term survival of both the orangutans and the people who live here.
You access the Kahayan River from the town of Palangkaraya, which is close to the forested island of Pulau Kaja. This is a pre-release habitat for rescued orangutans managed by the Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation, and it's possible to spot orangutans from the river. Downstream from Palangkaraya are Dayak villages of Bukit Rawi, Sigi Tumbang Nusa and Pilang, where you can learn about indigenous religion, cultures and traditional livelihoods. At night the captain will simply find a sheltered location on the bank to moor the boat – it's a true expedition!
If you're solely interested in tracking orangutans, the Kahayan River area might not be for you (although it can be easily combined with a visit to nearby Sebangu National Park). However, if you're remotely interested in traditional culture and the interaction of cultural preservation and wildlife conservation, I can't recommend this area highly enough.
“One of the natural wonders of the world”, according to the UK’s Orangutan Foundation, Taman Nasional (National Park) Tanjung Puting is home to the world's largest population of wild orangutans and represents their best hope for survival.
It was at Tanjung Puting in 1971 that leading orangutan authority Dr Biruté Galdikas established the Camp Leakey research station — an instrumental step in bringing the plight of the park’s most famous resident to worldwide attention.
Set amid the largest swathe of coastal tropical heath and peat swamp forest, which used to cover much of southern Borneo, Tanjung Puting started out as a game reserve in 1935 before becoming a National Park in 1982.
The best way to experience the wonders of Tanjung Puting is on a traditional klotok (houseboat) puttering gently along Sungai Sekonyer as you search for pot-bellied macaques, hornbills and the odd crocodile.
Starting from the Kumai river port in the central Kalimantan city of Pangkalan Bun, your guides will typically stop at three main feeding stations within the park, where you will get to experience semi-wild orangutans during feeding sessions. The best option for this is at Tanjung Harapan, but you’ll also stop at Pondok Tangui. Your final destination will be Camp Leakey, a 4-4 ½ hour journey upriver.
From the docking point, be prepared for a 45-minute walk to the first feeding platform at Camp Leakey, on a flat and well-maintained path. Here, as well as orangutans, you will see Bornean bearded pigs, gibbons and mangrove-loving proboscis. Camp Leakey is your best chance to see orangutans — most were released around here and stay close to the site. In general, orangutans around Camp Leakey are the most relaxed around humans. Look out for Tom, the camp’s alpha male (but if you do see him, be careful not to engage in a staring match).
Once feeding time is over, you can explore the camp’s excellent information centre. Tanjung Puting offers plenty of other activities including birding, hiking and wildlife tours — as well as cultural trips to remote villages.
Sebangau National Park is rarely visited by tourists and has been at serious risk from illegal logging and land conversion, which is why I'm so keen to encourage visitors to come here.
The Katingan River flows through Sebangau and its forest-lined banks offer a wonderful experience for intrepid travellers. You can canoe through the canals and trek into the park from the river, going via tiny indigenous villages to track orangutans, wild proboscis monkeys and gibbons. You might see sun bears, or even an elusive clouded leopard, as well as spotting many bird species – I have seen one of the most endangered birds - Storm’s stork - as well many magnificent hornbills, kingfishers and raptors.
Trekking through the swampy forests in Sebangau can be a challenge as trails are either non-existent or very hard to follow. It's not for the faint-hearted, but Sebangau is a true hidden gem in Kalimantan and one I can highly recommend.
Duration: One dayDistance: 21 kmDifficulty: Moderate to difficult (mainly because of the heat)Start/end-point: Chau Doc
The guided Nui Cam trek is actually a 21km-trail run, which was designed a few years ago for an annual race. The trail begins in rice paddies before ascending through fruit farms and waterfalls. This is a deeply spiritual part of the Mekong Delta, and highlights of this trek are the atmospheric shrines tended to by smiley caretakers.
Duration: Two daysDistance: 30 kmDifficulty: ModerateStart/end point: Dalat to Mui Ne
This is one of several organised treks that involve a pick-up in Dalat and drop-off on the coast. Transfer by car to begin the trek in Ta Nang, a district of pine forests and rice paddies, before hiking into Phan Dung, a neighbouring district with gushing rivers and lush farmland. You’ll then be collected and driven to the beach town of Mui Ne.
Duration: One dayDistance: 10 kmDifficulty: EasyStart/end point: Bach Ma
Bach Ma National Park has several excellent trails, and more are being created as the area tries to promote adventure tourism. Rhododendron Falls Trail is one of the most popular hikes. It’s suitable for families, passes a panoramic viewpoint, and the highlight is a thundering waterfall with rock pools that are good for swimming.
Duration: Four daysDistance: 25km (8km caving)Difficulty: ModerateAccommodation: CampingStart/end point: Phong Nha Village
The British Cave Research Association helped launch this tour with Oxalis Adventure, a local company, with limited numbers and a strict route to protect the integrity of the cave. This includes guides, porters, a cave expert and food, and it remains the only way to explore Son Doong Cave.
Son Doong is a unique trekking experience, with underground jungles, giant ceiling collapses, ethereal campsites and stalagmites the size of multi-storey buildings. If you think caving is crawling around in narrow spaces, think again – some of these chambers can fit aeroplanes with room to spare.
Whenever I mention the Son Doong Expedition, people usually question the expense of the all-inclusive tour – USD $3,000 – and I always say the same thing. Yes, it’s expensive, especially for Vietnam. But this cave is one of the world’s great wonders. Many people are happy to pay that much to go skiing in the Alps for a week – and the Son Doong Cave Expedition surely beats that.
If the Son Doong Expedition is over budget, consider one of more than a dozen other caving experiences in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, including the hike to En Cave, Pygmy Cave or the Tu Lan cave system.
Duration: One dayDistance: 8 kmDifficulty: EasyStart/end point: Ma Pi Leng Village to Ma Pi Leng Ecolodge
I couldn’t complete this guide without mentioning a short half-day hike that I discovered recently. The Skypath is a lofty path that clings to the cliffs high above the Nho Que River and Ma Pi Leng Mountain Pass, one of Ha Giang’s (and Asia’s) most extraordinary roads.
Starting at Ma Pi Leng Village, the path ascends through farmland to a great white cliff before descending through hamlets. The path finishes at Ma Pi Leng Ecolodge, which serves refreshments. From there it’s possible to hitch back to Ma Pi Leng Village. Ha Giang is becoming very popular, but few seem to know that the Skypath exists. Trekkers are likely to have the trail entirely to themselves, bar the occasional farmer. No guide required.
Duration: One dayDistance: 15 kmDifficulty: EasyStart/end point: Ban Don to Ban Hieu
This is an easy hike you could do without a guide. Starting from Ban Don, a village with a number of cosy mountain lodges that offer views of the surrounding rice terraces, the trail descends through forests and farms before running along rivers and cutting through hamlets. Eventually the trail reaches Ban Hieu, a picturesque village built on a waterfall.
Duration: Two to 14+ daysDifficulty: Moderate to difficultAccommodation: HomestaysStart/end point: Sapa town
Unfortunately, the town of Sapa suffers from overdevelopment and is one of my least favourite places in the country. But those that find Sapa disappointing seem to be the ones that base themselves in town and attempt day trips from there. Instead, engage a reputable tour company, tell them what you want and they will get you well away from the standard tourist traps.
I don’t recommend trekking in Sapa without a guide. The trails and homestays (accommodation with local families) are unmarked, and travellers that attempt their own treks often end up lost or where they don’t want to be (e.g. on a road, near a hydroelectric plant, facing a quarry etc.). Besides, employing a guide is one of the best ways to learn about Sapa’s cultures and support local families. The majority of guides are women from local ethnolinguistic groups, and they usually speak decent English.
Elephants have a troubled and controversial place in the Thai tourism industry. The basic rule of thumb is to avoid elephant riding or any close-contact, captive elephant experiences. Even so-called "sanctuaries" can be a problem. But one that is universally recognised as above board is the Elephant Nature Park just outside of Chiang Mai. A must-visit for visitors with kids.
Prachuap Khiri Khan, Prachuap for short, separates Bangkok to the north and the islands and beaches to the south, making it perfect for lazy road trips following the coastline in either direction.
The most popular tourist destination is Hua Hin, a well developed city with plenty of family-friendly resorts overlooking miles of beaches. The centre is cramped and noisy, but the southern part of town is a relaxing base for attractions such as the Black Mountain Water Park and Wat Khao Takiab, the Chopsticks Hill Temple, where you can meet monkeys and enjoy the sea views. Hua Hin is also a golfing centre and tour companies offer club rental and transport to any one of 10 courses, some very scenic.
Further south, Pranburi is a more laid-back seaside city with a mangrove-forest walkway and some of the best wind and kite-surfing in Thailand. It's also close to Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park with quiet beaches, magnificent limestone caves and a wetland rich in birdlife.
Prachuap town is a kid-friendly destination in its own right. It has a monkey-filled hilltop temple at Khao Chong Krachok, a family-oriented beach at Ao Manao, and a seafront walkway where fishers offload their catch. And within striking distance are the refreshing Huai Yang waterfall and the Kui Buri National Park, the best place in Thailand to spot elephants in the wild.
Note for all travellers, but especially those with kids, road safety in Thailand leaves a lot to be desired and a high degree of caution is advised.
Thailand's northernmost province is often overlooked by travellers assuming that Chiang Mai is the must-visit destination up north. Both are worth a visit, but Chiang Rai is hard to beat for vistas of layered mountains and one of Asia's grandest rivers, the Mekong.
Start with three of Thailand's most imaginative structures: Wat Rong Khun (White Temple), Wat Rang Suea Ten (Blue Temple) and Baan Dum (Black House). Designed by two Thai artists, they feature creative interpretations of the country’s spiritual themes in art and architecture.
Then there are great options in the countryside. Soak up Mekong River views in relaxing Chiang Khong; observe 700-year-old ruins in Chiang Saen, an early capital of the Lanna kingdom that predates Chiang Mai; gaze at the Golden Triangle, where Thailand meets Laos and Myanmar in an area that was once notorious for drug smuggling.
When you're ready to hit the mountains, enjoy the temperate flower gardens and tea farms perched at 1,100 to 1,700 metres at Phu Chee Fah, Doi Tung, and Mae Salong. It gets chilly up there so pack semi-warm clothes.
For travellers with older kids, there are several tour outfits offering jungle trekking to villages that are home to hill tribes, such as the Lahu. For a real adventure, take a bus to Tha Ton in northern Chiang Mai province and then catch a longtail boat down the Kok River to Chiang Rai.
Loei province in Thailand's northeast draws a fraction of the visitors of the more popular destinations to the south. This makes it a thrilling place to visit with older (and more adventurous) kids.
Chiang Khan's historic temples, heritage houses, trendy cafes and Thai massage shops make it fun for a day of strolling or cycling. In the late afternoon enjoy the lengthy walkway along the Mekong and watch fishers casting out their nets before puttering home on longtail boats as the sun sinks behind the fluffy green hills. It is enchanting.
Near Chiang Khan is a mountain, Phu Tok, from which you have views of the Mekong - and there's no need to hike thanks to the songthaews that can truck you to the viewpoint. A glass-floor skywalk set over the confluence of the Mekong and Hueang rivers is a thrill.
Further west, Phu Ruea National Park has waterfalls accessible via a road that winds up to a 1,365-metre summit with tremendous views. In the south of the province, climb to the 1,316-metre plateau at Phu Kradueng if you’re fit enough. There’s a campground there where temperatures can drop close to freezing at night. Alternatively, head to Suan Pha Hin Ngam for a tractor ride between vertical karst cliffs.
Buses access some parts of Loei province, but renting a car in one of the larger provinces nearby, such as Khon Kaen or Udon Thani, would make it easier to explore the countryside. Loei also fits nicely into a wider tour of the Northeast that might include Nong Khai, Bueng Kan, Nakhon Phanom and other provinces along the Mekong.
Founded in 1350 and destroyed by invading Burmese in 1767, the once-glorious city of Ayutthaya preceded Bangkok as the capital of Siam, as Thailand was known before 1939. Its ruins are extensive and easier to reach than those of Sukhothai.
The UNESCO-listed historical park covers part of an island rimmed by a canal and three rivers. Here you'll find Wat Phra Sri Sanphet, the former royal temple with slender bell-shaped chedis and the remains of a once-ornate palace. Many of the ruins here dot the city to form a contrast between modern and ancient. There are many noteworthy historical sites on the outskirts of Ayutthaya, accessible by longtail boat or the area's signature frog-shaped tuk tuks.
The Million Toy Museum is a hit with kids, while adults appreciate the remains of settlements built by Portuguese, Dutch, Japanese and other foreign merchants who once prospered in the city. You can climb the towering chedi at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon and imagine the approach of the Burmese invaders.
A highlight of Lopburi is Phra Phrang Sam Yod, featuring a trio of corncob spires built by Khmers in the 12th century and later embellished with Thai artistry. Another is Phra Narai Ratchaniwet, a 17th century palace that's now an excellent museum.
Just 70km north of Bangkok, it’s perfect for a day trip or stays of a night or two. A further 60km up the Northern railway line is Lopburi, another historic centre.The thousands of monkeys at Lopburi can be brazen, sneaking up to snatch food or even cameras and wallets before scampering away. Though mostly harmless, they do sometimes bite. Don't let kids pet them, and keep a tight grip on your valuables.
Founded in the 12th century, Sukhothai (Dawning Lotus) was the first Thai kingdom to conquer most of the land within modern Thailand's borders. Guided by leaders like Ramkamhaeng, now a revered figure, this was the kingdom where the Thai script was created and where a distinctive Thai culture first emerged.
Sukhothai's three zones can be explored in a day. One key site is the former royal temple Wat Mahathat, with its lotus-shaped chedi spires and exquisite carvings. Another is a seated 11-metre wide Buddha image at nearby Wat Si Chum which is hidden by a brick enclosure accessed via a narrow passageway, which makes for a dramatic approach.
A third is the meditation monastery at Wat Saphan Hin set on a wooded hill, to which King Ramkamhaeng once rode on a white elephant. The atmosphere is serene even today.
Kamphaeng Phet's ruins are less extensive than those of Sukhothai, but the reclining Buddha image at Wat Phra Kaeo and dozens of 14th century elephant statues at Wat Chang Rob are no less captivating. Away from the historical sites, Kamphaeng Phet's riverfront makes for a relaxing sunset stroll followed by a search for tasty Thai treats in the night market.
Compact layouts and plentiful tree cover make the historical parks in Sukhothai and Kamphaeng Phet great for bicycles, which can be rented. If your family has a keen interest in history, consider another historical park, Si Satchanalai, set in a rural area 50km north of Sukhothai.
Trang province, south of Krabi, is another of Thailand's many lesser-visited spots, and is a good place to do some kid-friendly island-hopping.
The capital of Trang province, south of Krabi on the Andaman coast, is worth a night if you're a food lover. Rise early for dim sum, deep-fried tofu and steamed buns (sala bao) with locally-grown Robusta coffee, then sample the many curries and Trang's signature roast pork dish in the markets.
Ko Mook is Trang province's most popular island, even if it's downright sleepy compared to Ko Phi Phi or Ko Lanta. Explore the fishing villages, hike to the viewpoint and take a longtail boat or kayaks to Tham Morakot. A dark 50-metre sea cave that might frighten little ones, ends at a white sand beach concealed by a vertical ring of limestone.
Easy to reach from Ko Mook by affordable private longtail boat, the smaller islands of Ko Kradan and Ko Ngai both have beaches that rank among the most stunning in the country. They also offer fine resorts, reefs for off-the-beach snorkelling, and forest trails ending at sparsely developed coves.
You could finish with Ko Libong, which draws yet fewer tourists, but is home to quaint villages and one of the last herds of dugongs (similar to manatees) left in Thailand. From a boat tour or an observation tower you may spot some of these endangered creatures, sometimes known as sea cows, feeding in their protected waters.
You can fly direct to Trang Airport (TST) from Bangkok, or take a train down the only offshoot of the Southern Line that accesses the Thai southwest.
Krabi, on Thailand's southwest coast, is a glorious, family-friendly alternative to the often seedy and rowdy Phuket.
Ao Nang is Krabi province's most touristy town on the mainland coast, with a large selection of comfortable family-friendly resorts. A little further north, Noppharat Thara and Khlong Muang beaches are quieter and less nightlife-oriented. The provincial capital is also worth a visit for food and culture.
Close to Krabi town, you can hop in a longtail boat and climb into the caves at Khao Kanab Nam before taking a spin around the pastoral island of Ko Klang with its mosques, water buffalo and batik workshops.
Outside the town, the viewpoint at Wat Tham Suea (Tiger Cave Temple) is breathtaking, but try climbing the 1,237 steps only if the whole family is in good shape. Other options include hiking to the 11-tier Huai Toh waterfall, or along the scenic Dragon Spine ridge known as Khao Ngon Nak.
On the mainland, but only accessible by boat from the Ao Nang area, is Railay, a peninsula with top-notch beaches framed by vertical karst cliffs that are well known to rock climbers. While Railay has several resorts, many visitors drop by on a boat tour that also covers the islands of Ko Poda and Ko Gai - Chicken Island because of its hen-like shape. Further north, Ko Hong rewards day trippers with a viewpoint set near a jade-hued lagoon.
Krabi province also includes the islands of Ko Phi Phi, Ko Jum and Ko Lanta, among others. Day trips are possible from Krabi town and Ao Nang, but I'd recommend you treat them as separate destinations and try to spend several nights there if possible.
Khao Sok is one of Thailand's best-known national parks, and makes a convenient stop-off for family itineraries calling at Thailand's southern beach destinations.
The park’s centrepiece is a reservoir, Ratchaphrapa or Chiew Lan, one of the most magnificent bodies of fresh water in Southeast Asia. The emerald water glistens between 1,000-metre high limestone mountains. You can take a boat tour lasting a few hours or a full day, or you can spend a night at one of 17 raft-house lodgings. They all come with kayaks.
West of the reservoir are caves and waterfalls, and a trail guide is required to access most of them. This area is also where you'll find the rafflesia kerrii, the fire-red, so-called dinosaur flower that smells rank and is one of the world's largest flowers when it blooms in the dry season. Though large mammals are rare, Khao Sok is full of birds and reptiles.
Most people will visit as part of an organised tour that includes accommodation, transfers in/out of the park, and guided nature hikes.
Start in the port town of Kumai in Central Kalimantan, the gateway to the famous Tanjung Puting National Park. Here, you’ll board a traditional klotok longboat and begin your journey up the Sekonyer River, where you can spot crocodiles, proboscis monkeys and other wildlife. Day two will see you arrive at renowned orangutan research centre Camp Leakey, where you’ll meet rangers, explore the camp and watch orangutans feeding, before trekking into the jungle. After a peaceful night on your boat, you’ll sail downriver to an orangutan feeding station, before journeying to the Pesalat Reforestation Camp. Here, you can learn more about reforestation and the devastating impact of illegal logging on Borneo’s wildlife, as well as searching for proboscis monkeys before returning to Kumai.
Starting in kaleidoscopic Kuching, take the time to stroll along the riverfront, taking in the colonial architecture, Weekend Market and a day trip to Gunung Gading National Park — especially if the giant Rafflesia flower is in bloom. Next, begin your orangutan adventure in the Semenggoh Nature Reserve at the orangutan sanctuary, where you can watch this playful ape feed and learn survival skills before being re-released back into the wild. Continue your wildlife adventure with a boat trip to Bako National Park to see macaques and proboscis monkeys, before ending in Kuching Wetlands National Park for crocodiles, lizards and an amazing array of birds.
Start your trip in cosmopolitan Kuching, making sure to sample Malaysian cuisine before making a day trip to Bako National Park, Sarawak’s oldest national park. Here, you can trek through the jungle and see macaques and proboscis monkeys. Next, head to the Batang Ai river, where you’ll take a riverboat cruise to see the traditional longhouses of the Iban people. Travel back to Kuching before flying to Sandakan and the Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary for feeding time and conservation. Continue your orangutan odyssey on the Kinabatangan River searching for semi-wild orangutans building nests and jungle treks. End your trip with a flight to Kinabalu for beaches, resorts and relaxation.
Dive into Krung Thep Maha Nakhon (Sacred City of Angels), the Thai name used for the kingdom's New York City-sized swirl of life, art, history, boats, tuk-tuks, markets, malls and more than enough sizzling woks to make you sneeze. Rise for an early northbound train to wander the 14th to 18th-century ruins at Ayutthaya. On day three, journey west into Kanchanaburi for travertine waterfalls followed by various sites related to the brutal forced construction of the Thai-Burma Railway during World War II. If you have any time left, finish with a float down the River Kwai, which is pronounced kway, by the way.
Pick up at the urban tourism hub of Surat Thani — Phuket works too — and turn uphill to Khao Sok, arguably Thailand's most impressive national park. Spend one night in a rafthouse and another in a treehouse after days spent hiking and kayaking beneath the vertical limestone cliffs.
Head to Krabi Town for bursting markets and riverside scenery, then catch a boat to Ko Lanta and take your pick out of a baker's dozen beaches boasting top-notch family and luxury resorts. Take another boat ride south to sedate Ko Muk for the Emerald Cave and snorkelling around (or staying on) neighbouring islands like Ko Kradan, Ko Ngai and Ko Rok, all boasting luscious beaches as well.
Re-engage with the non-island world at Trang, a low-key town with an airport and train station.
Begin your Vietnam trip in Hanoi with a trip to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum to learn more about the man who led Vietnam’s independence from French colonial rule. Next, head to the Old Quarter, where individual streets are dedicated to specific traders, for a taste of old Hanoi and to sample some street food. Take an overnight cruise on Halong Bay, exploring some of the 2,000 islets that make up this World Heritage Site, before travelling to preserved Hoi An for its stunning Chinese and Japanese architecture. After a brief stop in Ho Chi Minh City, where you can learn more about the Vietnam War, sail down the Mekong Delta for a taste of rural Vietnam, floating markets and village life. End your trip back in Ho Chi Minh City before flying out.
Con Dao National Park
Cat Tien National Park
Fansipan ascent
Climbing the roof of Indochina
Loy Krathong & Yi Peng festivals
Wet and wild at Songkran
Indigenous cultures & conservation on the Kahayan River
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