Thailand
More than tropical beaches and temples
Thailand, a nearly 1,000-year-old kingdom with a population and landmass to match the UK, is a land of plenty. Old-growth jungle cloaks the mountains. Brilliant beaches rim hundreds of islands. The scent of tropical aromatics—galangal and coconut, finger root and bird's eye chilli—steam from endless markets.
So far, so travel brochure. But dig deeper and you'll find a country in transition, rethinking its tourism business model for the post-covid era in an attempt to shake off its reputation for over-tourism, crowded beaches and (for better or worse) lower spending backpackers.
In the cities you'll find a metropolitan and youthful culture that's marching into the 21st century at a pace that would shame the snoozing Europeans and North Americans, with lively music and arts scenes and a political awakening that is shaking the country's establishment to its core.
But Thailand is still Thailand—all bustle, noise and excitement. And yes, venture out of the cities and you'll see that shimmering rice paddies, jungles and glorious (if not entirely deserted) beaches, are still there.
You might even spot a temple or two.
Hidden gems in Thailand
Thailand
Loy Krathong & Yi Peng festivals
After Songkran, Thailand's other big nationwide festival is Loy Krathong, when candlelit offerings fill rivers and float through the sky in a moving ritual to release past negativity and start anew. In the north, Loy Krathong coincides with another festival, Yi Peng, when vast clouds of paper lanterns are released into the air. It's a breathtaking sight that is certain to awe the kids. Just don't think about where all those lanterns eventually come back down to earth... Note that downtown Chaing Mai gets fairly rowdy at this time of year with lots of fireworks in the streets. The date changes each year but it’s usually in November, always on a full moon.
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Thailand
Wet and wild at Songkran
The Songkran holiday is now a full-blown water war waged by hose, pistol, balloon and bucket, but it began centuries ago with more gentle water splashing which remains part of a cleansing ritual still seen at temples. The festival runs from 13th to 15th April nationwide, although Chiang Mai adds extra soakage days and the Mon enclave of Phra Phradaeng, near Bangkok, throws its own unique style of Songkran a week later. A word of warning: it's all good fun, but it does get boisterous and tourists are seen as prize targets. Keep your electronics indoors, and fully expect to get drenched.
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Chiang Mai
See rescued elephants (ethically)
ExperienceElephants have a troubled and controversial place in the Thai tourism industry. The basic rule of thumb is to avoid elephant riding or any close-contact, captive elephant experiences. Even so-called "sanctuaries" can be a problem. But one that is universally recognised as above board is the Elephant Nature Park just outside of Chiang Mai. A must-visit for visitors with kids.
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Prachuap Khiri Khan
Road trip down the Prachuap coastline
Prachuap Khiri Khan, Prachuap for short, separates Bangkok to the north and the islands and beaches to the south, making it perfect for lazy road trips following the coastline in either direction. The most popular tourist destination is Hua Hin, a well developed city with plenty of family-friendly resorts overlooking miles of beaches. The centre is cramped and noisy, but the southern part of town is a relaxing base for attractions such as the Black Mountain Water Park and Wat Khao Takiab, the Chopsticks Hill Temple, where you can meet monkeys and enjoy the sea views. Hua Hin is also a golfing centre and tour companies offer club rental and transport to any one of 10 courses, some very scenic. Further south, Pranburi is a more laid-back seaside city with a mangrove-forest walkway and some of the best wind and kite-surfing in Thailand. It's also close to Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park with quiet beaches, magnificent limestone caves and a wetland rich in birdlife. Prachuap town is a kid-friendly destination in its own right. It has a monkey-filled hilltop temple at Khao Chong Krachok, a family-oriented beach at Ao Manao, and a seafront walkway where fishers offload their catch. And within striking distance are the refreshing Huai Yang waterfall and the Kui Buri National Park, the best place in Thailand to spot elephants in the wild. Note for all travellers, but especially those with kids, road safety in Thailand leaves a lot to be desired and a high degree of caution is advised.
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Chiang Rai
Explore the temples of Chiang Rai
Thailand's northernmost province is often overlooked by travellers assuming that Chiang Mai is the must-visit destination up north. Both are worth a visit, but Chiang Rai is hard to beat for vistas of layered mountains and one of Asia's grandest rivers, the Mekong. Start with three of Thailand's most imaginative structures: Wat Rong Khun (White Temple), Wat Rang Suea Ten (Blue Temple) and Baan Dum (Black House). Designed by two Thai artists, they feature creative interpretations of the country’s spiritual themes in art and architecture. Then there are great options in the countryside. Soak up Mekong River views in relaxing Chiang Khong; observe 700-year-old ruins in Chiang Saen, an early capital of the Lanna kingdom that predates Chiang Mai; gaze at the Golden Triangle, where Thailand meets Laos and Myanmar in an area that was once notorious for drug smuggling. When you're ready to hit the mountains, enjoy the temperate flower gardens and tea farms perched at 1,100 to 1,700 metres at Phu Chee Fah, Doi Tung, and Mae Salong. It gets chilly up there so pack semi-warm clothes. For travellers with older kids, there are several tour outfits offering jungle trekking to villages that are home to hill tribes, such as the Lahu. For a real adventure, take a bus to Tha Ton in northern Chiang Mai province and then catch a longtail boat down the Kok River to Chiang Rai.
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Chiang Khan
Get off the beaten path in Loei
Loei province in Thailand's northeast draws a fraction of the visitors of the more popular destinations to the south. This makes it a thrilling place to visit with older (and more adventurous) kids. Chiang Khan's historic temples, heritage houses, trendy cafes and Thai massage shops make it fun for a day of strolling or cycling. In the late afternoon enjoy the lengthy walkway along the Mekong and watch fishers casting out their nets before puttering home on longtail boats as the sun sinks behind the fluffy green hills. It is enchanting. Near Chiang Khan is a mountain, Phu Tok, from which you have views of the Mekong - and there's no need to hike thanks to the songthaews that can truck you to the viewpoint. A glass-floor skywalk set over the confluence of the Mekong and Hueang rivers is a thrill. Further west, Phu Ruea National Park has waterfalls accessible via a road that winds up to a 1,365-metre summit with tremendous views. In the south of the province, climb to the 1,316-metre plateau at Phu Kradueng if you’re fit enough. There’s a campground there where temperatures can drop close to freezing at night. Alternatively, head to Suan Pha Hin Ngam for a tractor ride between vertical karst cliffs. Buses access some parts of Loei province, but renting a car in one of the larger provinces nearby, such as Khon Kaen or Udon Thani, would make it easier to explore the countryside. Loei also fits nicely into a wider tour of the Northeast that might include Nong Khai, Bueng Kan, Nakhon Phanom and other provinces along the Mekong.
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Ayutthaya
Day trip to Ayutthaya
Founded in 1350 and destroyed by invading Burmese in 1767, the once-glorious city of Ayutthaya preceded Bangkok as the capital of Siam, as Thailand was known before 1939. Its ruins are extensive and easier to reach than those of Sukhothai. The UNESCO-listed historical park covers part of an island rimmed by a canal and three rivers. Here you'll find Wat Phra Sri Sanphet, the former royal temple with slender bell-shaped chedis and the remains of a once-ornate palace. Many of the ruins here dot the city to form a contrast between modern and ancient. There are many noteworthy historical sites on the outskirts of Ayutthaya, accessible by longtail boat or the area's signature frog-shaped tuk tuks. The Million Toy Museum is a hit with kids, while adults appreciate the remains of settlements built by Portuguese, Dutch, Japanese and other foreign merchants who once prospered in the city. You can climb the towering chedi at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon and imagine the approach of the Burmese invaders. A highlight of Lopburi is Phra Phrang Sam Yod, featuring a trio of corncob spires built by Khmers in the 12th century and later embellished with Thai artistry. Another is Phra Narai Ratchaniwet, a 17th century palace that's now an excellent museum. Just 70km north of Bangkok, it’s perfect for a day trip or stays of a night or two. A further 60km up the Northern railway line is Lopburi, another historic centre.The thousands of monkeys at Lopburi can be brazen, sneaking up to snatch food or even cameras and wallets before scampering away. Though mostly harmless, they do sometimes bite. Don't let kids pet them, and keep a tight grip on your valuables.
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Sukhothai
Explore ruins by bike
Founded in the 12th century, Sukhothai (Dawning Lotus) was the first Thai kingdom to conquer most of the land within modern Thailand's borders. Guided by leaders like Ramkamhaeng, now a revered figure, this was the kingdom where the Thai script was created and where a distinctive Thai culture first emerged. Sukhothai's three zones can be explored in a day. One key site is the former royal temple Wat Mahathat, with its lotus-shaped chedi spires and exquisite carvings. Another is a seated 11-metre wide Buddha image at nearby Wat Si Chum which is hidden by a brick enclosure accessed via a narrow passageway, which makes for a dramatic approach. A third is the meditation monastery at Wat Saphan Hin set on a wooded hill, to which King Ramkamhaeng once rode on a white elephant. The atmosphere is serene even today. Kamphaeng Phet's ruins are less extensive than those of Sukhothai, but the reclining Buddha image at Wat Phra Kaeo and dozens of 14th century elephant statues at Wat Chang Rob are no less captivating. Away from the historical sites, Kamphaeng Phet's riverfront makes for a relaxing sunset stroll followed by a search for tasty Thai treats in the night market. Compact layouts and plentiful tree cover make the historical parks in Sukhothai and Kamphaeng Phet great for bicycles, which can be rented. If your family has a keen interest in history, consider another historical park, Si Satchanalai, set in a rural area 50km north of Sukhothai.
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Trang
Island hopping, family style
Trang province, south of Krabi, is another of Thailand's many lesser-visited spots, and is a good place to do some kid-friendly island-hopping. The capital of Trang province, south of Krabi on the Andaman coast, is worth a night if you're a food lover. Rise early for dim sum, deep-fried tofu and steamed buns (sala bao) with locally-grown Robusta coffee, then sample the many curries and Trang's signature roast pork dish in the markets. Ko Mook is Trang province's most popular island, even if it's downright sleepy compared to Ko Phi Phi or Ko Lanta. Explore the fishing villages, hike to the viewpoint and take a longtail boat or kayaks to Tham Morakot. A dark 50-metre sea cave that might frighten little ones, ends at a white sand beach concealed by a vertical ring of limestone. Easy to reach from Ko Mook by affordable private longtail boat, the smaller islands of Ko Kradan and Ko Ngai both have beaches that rank among the most stunning in the country. They also offer fine resorts, reefs for off-the-beach snorkelling, and forest trails ending at sparsely developed coves. You could finish with Ko Libong, which draws yet fewer tourists, but is home to quaint villages and one of the last herds of dugongs (similar to manatees) left in Thailand. From a boat tour or an observation tower you may spot some of these endangered creatures, sometimes known as sea cows, feeding in their protected waters. You can fly direct to Trang Airport (TST) from Bangkok, or take a train down the only offshoot of the Southern Line that accesses the Thai southwest.
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Krabi
Kid-friendly Krabi
Krabi, on Thailand's southwest coast, is a glorious, family-friendly alternative to the often seedy and rowdy Phuket. Ao Nang is Krabi province's most touristy town on the mainland coast, with a large selection of comfortable family-friendly resorts. A little further north, Noppharat Thara and Khlong Muang beaches are quieter and less nightlife-oriented. The provincial capital is also worth a visit for food and culture. Close to Krabi town, you can hop in a longtail boat and climb into the caves at Khao Kanab Nam before taking a spin around the pastoral island of Ko Klang with its mosques, water buffalo and batik workshops. Outside the town, the viewpoint at Wat Tham Suea (Tiger Cave Temple) is breathtaking, but try climbing the 1,237 steps only if the whole family is in good shape. Other options include hiking to the 11-tier Huai Toh waterfall, or along the scenic Dragon Spine ridge known as Khao Ngon Nak. On the mainland, but only accessible by boat from the Ao Nang area, is Railay, a peninsula with top-notch beaches framed by vertical karst cliffs that are well known to rock climbers. While Railay has several resorts, many visitors drop by on a boat tour that also covers the islands of Ko Poda and Ko Gai - Chicken Island because of its hen-like shape. Further north, Ko Hong rewards day trippers with a viewpoint set near a jade-hued lagoon. Krabi province also includes the islands of Ko Phi Phi, Ko Jum and Ko Lanta, among others. Day trips are possible from Krabi town and Ao Nang, but I'd recommend you treat them as separate destinations and try to spend several nights there if possible.
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Khao Sok
Nature hikes in Khao Sok
Khao Sok is one of Thailand's best-known national parks, and makes a convenient stop-off for family itineraries calling at Thailand's southern beach destinations. The park’s centrepiece is a reservoir, Ratchaphrapa or Chiew Lan, one of the most magnificent bodies of fresh water in Southeast Asia. The emerald water glistens between 1,000-metre high limestone mountains. You can take a boat tour lasting a few hours or a full day, or you can spend a night at one of 17 raft-house lodgings. They all come with kayaks. West of the reservoir are caves and waterfalls, and a trail guide is required to access most of them. This area is also where you'll find the rafflesia kerrii, the fire-red, so-called dinosaur flower that smells rank and is one of the world's largest flowers when it blooms in the dry season. Though large mammals are rare, Khao Sok is full of birds and reptiles. Most people will visit as part of an organised tour that includes accommodation, transfers in/out of the park, and guided nature hikes.
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Ko Mak
Family-friendly island escape
The Thai islands have some reputational baggage when it comes to the all-night party vibes, but there are plenty of islands that are perfectly suited for kids and family travellers. I'd put Ko Mak and Ko Kood firmly on the kid-friendly list. On star-shaped Ko Mak you can rent bicycles to explore the gently rolling terrain blanketed in pineapple and rubber farms, and Ko Rang, the prime snorkelling and diving destination in the archipelago, is easily reached. There are islets accessible by kayak or private boat tour, the largest of which is Ko Kradat, where herds of deer roam freely. The white sand of Ko Kham is also a hit near Ao Suan Yai, one of Ko Mak's two main beaches. Ko Kood is a larger island with more than a dozen beaches that are among the finest in Thailand. When not relaxing seaside you might kayak the mangrove-draped rivers, cool off at one of three waterfalls, and marvel at 500-year-old macca trees that tower amid the mountainous interior. Ko Mak is easy to get around, but some of Ko Kood's beaches are remote and traversing the island can be expensive and tricky with younger kids. Sand flies become a problem on both islands at times, especially on Ko Mak. In the dry season, you could first head to the larger island of Ko Chang and then catch up with island-hopping ferries that stop at Ko Mak and Ko Kood, as well as the smaller island of Ko Wai.
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Loy Krathong & Yi Peng festivals
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Wet and wild at Songkran
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See rescued elephants (ethically)
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Enter the belly of an elephant near Bangkok
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