Bosnia and Herzegovina
The lesser-visited, more-beautiful Balkans
If the name Bosnia conjures up for you only images of the devastating conflict of the 1990s which brought death and destruction to its people on an unimaginable scale, maybe it’s time to take a fresh look.
It’s certainly true that the Balkan country went through a brutal war from 1992 to 1995 in which some 100,000 people died – although some put the number at nearly 200,000 – and 2,000,000 were displaced.
But now, in Bosnia – full name Bosnia and Herzegovina - and its capital Sarajevo, rebuilt after suffering appalling damage, you would hardly know the war ever happened. There are museums that tell the harrowing stories, and some buildings still bear pockmarks caused by gun and shell fire; but the country is beautiful, Sarajevo vibrant, and the people delightful.
Bosnia and Herzegovina often lags behind Croatia, Montenegro and Slovenia when it comes to Balkan tourism, but that makes this under-rated and under-visited country all the more appealing. For a start, it’s adventure activity heaven. There’s plenty of white-water rafting, rock climbing and canyoning to be done in its national parks, with mountain peaks and deep gorges everywhere.
A trip to Sarajevo and the neighbouring city of Mostar, home of the iconic bridge which was destroyed in the war, is magical. It’s the diversity of Sarajevo that makes it so exciting. The country has been ruled by the Austro-Hungarian and Ottoman empires, and was part of Yugoslavia, and that history is reflected in its architecture, food, and people.
English is spoken by nearly everyone and getting around is easy. Sarajevo old town with its narrow bustling lanes is a delight to the senses. The food is wonderful and although it is a Muslim –majority country, alcohol is freely available.
There is much to see, do, and absorb. This is, after all, the country and city where the shot was fired that sparked the First World War. The history has often been bloody and tragic but through it all, the people survive with their optimism and humour, and wonderful country, intact. And if you join them to enjoy it all, they are sure to have the warmest welcome waiting for you.
Hidden gems in Bosnia and Herzegovina
Balkans
Via Dinarica White Trail
Newly waymarked – and with sibling Green and Blue Trails on the way – this epic ‘mega trail’ through the Dinaric Alps links northern Albania with Slovenia via Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Croatia. Don’t expect polish; do expect rewarding and sometimes remote trekking. The trail isn’t generally sold as a commercial thru-hike, but trekking specialists will organise self-guided or guided treks along different segments of the trail. The Via Dinarica is actually three separate trails, with the main, so-called White Trail, following the spine of the Dinaric Alps as closely as possible. The Blue and Green trails follow lower routes and are less complete. The White Trail, described here, through Bosnia and Hezegovina is the most developed so far, stretching a more modest 333km and taking around two weeks to complete. Starting from Prisika on the Croatian border, the trail leads past Lake Buško with a fair amount of road walking. It passes through an area riddled with limestone caves, many that can be visited as detours. After crossing Mt Vran, the trail leads through the beautiful landscape of Blidinje Nature Park and over Mt Čvrsnica, with its distinctive rock-eye known as Hajdučka vrata. Next up, the trail crosses Prenj, a fabulous mountain area bristling with limestone peaks that requires at least two days. Passing beside Lake Boračko, it follows the edge of the Rakitnica Canyon to reach the Ljuta Valley, then skirts the southern slopes of Mt Treskavica. The final part of the White Trail in Bosnia is a two-stage hike across the beautiful landscape of Sutjeska National Park. Including Maglić, the highest mountain in Bosnia that can be climbed as a detour, the park features primeval forests, lush pastures and rocky peaks. After some awe-inspiring views from the border ridge, the route drops down to Lake Trnovačko, set amongst the epic sprawl of mountains that is Montenegro. Need to know The hiking season for the White Trail through Bosnia and Herzegovina is June to October. Bosnia and some parts of Croatia near the Bosnian border have areas with landmines. The trails on the Via Dinarica are perfectly safe, but it’s something you need to be aware of. Under no circumstances should you wander into areas where there are warning signs.
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Bosnia and Herzegovina itineraries
Bosnia and Herzegovina
Sarajevo and surroundings
Bosnia’s historic cities and mountain villages
5 days From £790 pp
Bosnia and Herzegovina
Via Dinarica way through Bosnia Herzegovina
Walking routes through Bosnia’s national parks
12 days From £2,673 pp
