Peter is a travel journalist and photographer who travels the globe searching for compelling stories from the paths less travelled. He writes on trekking and hiking for many publications, including BBC Travel, Lonely Planet, The Independent and The Guardian.
The best walking holidays in Europe
An expert guide to the best hikes and walks in Europe
Walking holidays in Europe: Introduction
Ask any group of keen walkers to name Europe’s best hiking hut and you’ll poke a hornets’ nest. Each will vociferously champion their choice, citing the richest fondue, the iciest beer, the most jaw-dropping views, the cleanest loos.
Mine is the homely Auberge de la Nova in Les Chapieux, on the Tour du Mont Blanc: the food is hearty, the café courtyard sunny and shady, the surroundings pleasant. But the trump card is soundproofing: I slept the slumber of angels in my private room, free from the unearthly, brain-penetrating snoring of my previous night’s bunk companion that I knew would be ravaging the nearby dorm. Bliss.
The dizzying number and variety of mountain huts, refuges, gites, guesthouses and other walkers’ accommodation is just one factor that makes walking holidays in Europe a delight. Another is the diversity of landscapes, cultures and cuisines. I’ve sipped coffee with octogenarian chess wizards amid Turkish olive groves, snacked on goose barnacles in Portuguese fishing hamlets, bought cheese from a Pyrenean shepherds’ milking-shed beneath snow-dusted peaks, and quaffed wines at from cellar doors alongside the Moselle and the Rhône, in Catalonia and North Macedonia – all while walking Europe’s exceptionally well-maintained hiking trails.
Sure, there are loftier mountains, deeper canyons, more remote wildernesses to be found elsewhere. But there’s no other region that packs this much diversity in such a small area, and with such well-developed infrastructure. Here you can trek around 4,800m-plus peaks or amble for hundreds of kilometres alongside meandering rivers. You can explore highlands snuffled by bears, wolf-prowled woodland, and coasts past which dolphins porpoise. En route you can visit archaeological sites dating back five millennia and more, roam Roman remains, circuit mediaeval castle walls or trace the remnants of the Iron Curtain. And all set in landscapes ranging from volcanic craters to ancient forests, vine-striped hills to soft-sand shores lapped by the turquoise Mediterranean.
Life’s made easier for hikers here, too, thanks to long-established traditions of walking – or, to put it in local terms, of wandern, randonée, caminando, fotturer and pohodništvo. Europe is criss-crossed by an unrivalled network of trails, many of them well waymarked, and including 12 official E-paths (see below). And in some places, including Norway, Finland, Scotland and Estonia, a longstanding ‘freedom to roam’ principle means that most uncultivated areas are fair game for walkers – you can explore at will, while respecting the land and its owners, of course.
The best walking holidays in Europe
Europe's most popular – and lesser known – walking holidays
I can never get enough of walking in Europe – not least because it’s in a constant state of reinvention and renewal. It’s over 250 years since the Tour du Mont Blanc was pioneered by mountaineer Horace Bénédict de Saussure, now joined by stripling trails springing up year by year. Here are just a few of my favourite European walking routes.
Europe
Tour Du Mont Blanc
A world-class trek through the heart of the Alps in three countries, the Tour de Mont Blanc, is a baptism for many hikers. Steeped in history, Mont Blanc has tempted mountaineers from across the globe to scale this dramatic massif and breath in its astounding vistas. The trail circumnavigates Mont Blanc (4,810m), spanning France, Italy, and Switzerland. Expect enthralling views, delicious food and an authentic Alpine experience. And the hiking is more varied than you may expect: you’ll be tackling impressive peaks, following roaring rivers and strolling through gentle valleys, sometimes all within the same day. Need to know Yes, it’s super-popular – you may well hit logjams on narrow paths up passes, and booking well in advance is essential – but, well, those views of Western Europe’s loftiest peak from all angles… It's not mandatory to hike the entire circuit. You can, for example, choose to trek the southern part of the trail over four days if time or cost is a factor. Another consideration is the short season. Like any other Alps destination, the hiking season is dictated by the length of the winter. So June could still have snow on the higher passes, and it's also possible for snow storms in September.
Read morePortugal
Rota Vicentina
Distance: 220 km – or shorter segmentsDuration: 14 daysStart/end point: Santiago do Cacém to Cabo de São VicenteDifficulty: Moderate In Portugal I’d highly recommend the Rota Vicentina, which comprises twin trails running north from the western Algarve through the Alentejo: the inland Historical Way and – my pick – the 226.5km coastal Fishermen’s Trail, traversing ancient cork-oak woods, wildflower-spangled cliffs and charming fishing villages. Both are blessed with good accommodation en route.
Read moreTyrol Mountains
Stubai High Trail
Distance: 50 miles (80 km)Duration: Eight daysStart/end point: Neustift to NederDifficulty: Strenuous The Stubai High Trail is an Alpine horseshoe classic hopping between traditional mountain huts with different but equally appealing personalities. The weather was terrible when I hiked it – rain, snow, low cloud – yet it was still soul-soaring.
Read moreGreece
Peloponnese Way
Distance: 140 miles (225 km) – or shorter segmentsDuration: Two weeksStart/end point: Corinth to KalamataDifficulty: Moderate to strenuous Bookended by beaches, this two-week north-south traverse of Greece’s most historical peninsula adds detours from the E4 to visit the most intriguing monasteries and villages – longer and quirkier than the better-known Menalon Trail.
Read moreSlovenia
Juliana Trail
ExperienceThe Juliana Trail in Slovenia is a circular route through the Julian Alps, a memorable loop of the country’s highest and most famous mountain, Triglav. The route was designed to encourage visitors to explore a wider area and reduce visitor numbers on Triglav itself. Although it doesn’t climb Triglav, it includes some less well-known areas and iconic spots like Bled. There’s also an optional loop through Goriška Brda, one of Slovenia’s premier wine regions. From Kranjska Gora, the Juliana heads east along the Sava Dolinka, with views of the Martuljek group, to Mojstrana and (less conventionally) the lesser-visited industrial town of Jesenice. Near Begunje it passes the hilltop church of Sv Peter, then swings through the beautiful town of Radovljica. Turning west the trail continues to Bled, with its much-photographed lake and island monastery, over the rugged Pokljuka plateau to Stara Fužina. On the shores of Lake Bohinj, Stara Fužina is one of the most beautiful spots in the Julian Alps and the usual trailhead for Triglav climbs. From Lake Bohinj it heads east again to Bohinjska Bistrica, then south over the Vrh Bače Pass to follow the narrow Bača Valley, again well off the radar of most itineraries. There's a fantastic viewpoint at Senica, above the confluence of the Idrijca and Soča rivers, before the trail descends to Most na Soči. Following the emerald green River Soča north to Tolmin and Kobarid, the stage between Kobarid and Bovec is particularly beautiful. From Bovec, the trail heads north along the valley of the River Koritnica, less travelled than the route east along the Soča, to Log pod Mangartom, with stunning views of Mangart and Jalovec towering above the head of the valley. Climbing to the Predel Pass, the trail drops into Italy, with an overnight stop in Tarvisio. Finally it turns east, following an old narrow gauge railway line, now a cycling and walking trail, back to Kranjska Gora in Slovenia. Need to know Almost all stages are accessible by public transport – one of the main principles behind the trail – so it’s easy to pick off sections as day walks. The hiking season is May to October (expect snow on the mountains until June).
Read moreBalkans
Via Dinarica White Trail
ExperienceNewly waymarked – and with sibling Green and Blue Trails on the way – this epic ‘mega trail’ through the Dinaric Alps links northern Albania with Slovenia via Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Croatia. Don’t expect polish; do expect rewarding and sometimes remote trekking. The trail isn’t generally sold as a commercial thru-hike, but trekking specialists will organise self-guided or guided treks along different segments of the trail. The Via Dinarica is actually three separate trails, with the main, so-called White Trail, following the spine of the Dinaric Alps as closely as possible. The Blue and Green trails follow lower routes and are less complete. The White Trail, described here, through Bosnia and Hezegovina is the most developed so far, stretching a more modest 333km and taking around two weeks to complete. Starting from Prisika on the Croatian border, the trail leads past Lake Buško with a fair amount of road walking. It passes through an area riddled with limestone caves, many that can be visited as detours. After crossing Mt Vran, the trail leads through the beautiful landscape of Blidinje Nature Park and over Mt Čvrsnica, with its distinctive rock-eye known as Hajdučka vrata. Next up, the trail crosses Prenj, a fabulous mountain area bristling with limestone peaks that requires at least two days. Passing beside Lake Boračko, it follows the edge of the Rakitnica Canyon to reach the Ljuta Valley, then skirts the southern slopes of Mt Treskavica. The final part of the White Trail in Bosnia is a two-stage hike across the beautiful landscape of Sutjeska National Park. Including Maglić, the highest mountain in Bosnia that can be climbed as a detour, the park features primeval forests, lush pastures and rocky peaks. After some awe-inspiring views from the border ridge, the route drops down to Lake Trnovačko, set amongst the epic sprawl of mountains that is Montenegro. Need to know The hiking season for the White Trail through Bosnia and Herzegovina is June to October. Bosnia and some parts of Croatia near the Bosnian border have areas with landmines. The trails on the Via Dinarica are perfectly safe, but it’s something you need to be aware of. Under no circumstances should you wander into areas where there are warning signs.
Read moreDolomites
Alta Via 1
Distance: 75 miles (120 km)Duration: Seven to ten daysStart/end point: Lago di Braies to BellunoDifficulty: Moderate to strenuous This moderately challenging hut-to-hut Dolomite traverse is as close to Patagonia’s Torres del Paine as you’ll get this side of the Atlantic. But with better pasta and more WWI history. The trail commences in Lago di Braies in the north and finishes in Belluno in the south. As you progress along the route, you traverse a UNESCO World Heritage landscape renowned for its awe-inspiring mountain peaks, panoramic vistas, and diverse flora and fauna. The crown jewel of the journey is the Cinque Torri - a spectacular rock formation offering some of the most breathtaking views in the Dolomites. Accommodation along the Alta Via 1 varies, from mountain huts known as "rifugios" that provide food and shelter to campgrounds for those who prefer to sleep under the stars.
Read moreSwitzerland
Faulhornweg
Distance: 9.5 miles (15 km)Duration: One dayStart/end point: Schynige Platte to FirstDifficulty: Moderate Europe’s (the world’s?) finest one-day hike starts special, with a cogwheel railway from Wildeswil to the Botanic Garden at Schynige Platte, and continues along a ridge affording views north across Lake Brienz and south to the Eiger and Schreckhorn.
Read moreIceland
Laugavegur Trail
Iceland is known as the land of fire and ice, and nowhere is this more accurate than the Laugavegur Trail. This otherworldly hike begins in Landmannalaugar, a geothermal haven globally known for its bubbling hot springs and colourful rhyolite mountains. Continuing en route brings you an array of natural wonders, from impressive glaciers to vast lava fields, and the 55km journey ends in Thorsmork, a mesmerising valley named after the Norse deity of thunder, Thor. Need to know Personally, when walking I love to see a tree or two – something Iceland is famously short of. What it does have is an austere, ethereal, often stark and otherworldly beauty epitomised on this short but dramatic trek. The trail is accessible from June to early September. Conveniently, there are daily bus services from Reykjavik (which takes around four hours) to the trailhead locations of Landmannalaugar and Thorsmork. The huts offer sleeping accommodation, kitchens and showers but must be booked beforehand. Laugavegur is one of Europe's most popular hikes, attracting around 10,000 visitors in its short season. I’d recommend avoiding the peak summer holiday period if you can, it’ll certainly make the trip more enjoyable.
Read moreFrench Pyrenees
Sentier des Pyrenees (GR10)
ExperienceDistance: 593 miles (955 km) – or shorter segmentsDuration: Seven to eight weeksStart/end point: Hendaye to Banyuls-sur-MerDifficulty: Challenging The GR11, shadowing the Pyrenees from Atlantic to Mediterranean on the Spanish side of the range, is higher, rougher and wilder. But the French GR10 would be my pick: though busier, it’s also better endowed with accommodation and transport, and truly spectacular. Plan your hike for the transhumance season when livestock is herded to summer pastures, accompanied in places by great festivities.
Read moreSantiago de Compostela
Camino Frances (Camino de Santiago)
Embarking on a pilgrimage is a unique trekking cultural and spiritual experience which brings people together from all over the world. At the heart of the modern pilgrimage lies Camino de Santiago, which is actually several different routes leading to Santiago de Compostela. The Camino Frances is the most popular route, spanning almost 500 miles (780 Km) from Saint Jean Pied de Port in France to Santiago in Spain. It takes around four to five weeks to complete in full, but most people do it in shorter segments. Need to know For most Camino hikers, blisters are their biggest challenge. It's not just the trail's length but also the concrete roads along the way that contribute to this issue. I've often seen novice hikers making the mistake of not changing out of their hiking boots when walking on hard surfaces, leading to friction on the feet. My top advice is to carry trainers (sneakers), and before starting each day, apply Vaseline to your feet, especially between the toes. I've tried and tested this method as an effective way to avoid blisters on long distance trails.
Read moreCounty Kerry
The Dingle Way
The Dingle Way is a 179 km long-distance walking route completing a circuit of the Dingle Peninsula. Starting in Tralee, the route winds its way through the countryside, passing by ancient sites and traversing rugged cliffs to ascend 2,300 metres. Highlights of the trail include the Gallarus Oratory, a well-preserved Christian church dating back to around the 11th century, and the ancient Leacanabuaile stone fort. As well as having panoramic views of the ocean and of the Blasket Islands, the trail also has views of the Conor Pass, one of the highest roads in Ireland. Along the way, hikers will also be able to enjoy the local culture and hospitality of the towns and villages they pass through, such as Camp, Lispole and Annascaul. The Dingle Way is considered a moderate to challenging walk, with some steep inclines and rocky terrain in places best suited for experienced hikers. Open all year round, the best time to complete the circuit is during the summer months when the weather is generally mild and dry with the peak season being June to September, so it's recommended to book accommodation in advance during these months.
Read moreTyrol Mountains
Adlerweg (Eagle's Way)
The Tirol’s flagship long-distance trail is the Adlerweg (Eagle’s Way), a challenging 300km trek between St Anton and St Johann; variant routes allow less-experienced trekkers to bypass the more technical sections.
Read moreEurope
Tour des Combins
The Tour des Combins is a seven-day, 105 km circuit in the mesmerising Swiss and Italian Alps. It's a superb, one-week alternative to the vastly more popular Tour de Mont Blanc, with plenty of epic views, and fewer people on the trail. Starting and finishing in the Swiss village of Bourg-Saint-Pierre, the trek circumnavigates the majestic Grand Combin massif, presenting breathtaking views of some of the highest peaks in the Alps, passing close to the vast Corbassière Glacier, spending a couple of stages in Italy, and crossing the Great St Bernard Pass (famous for everyone’s favourite shaggy mountain dog).
Read more-
Tour Du Mont Blanc
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Rota Vicentina
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Stubai High Trail
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Peloponnese Way
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Juliana Trail
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Via Dinarica White Trail
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Alta Via 1
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Faulhornweg
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Laugavegur Trail
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Sentier des Pyrenees (GR10)
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Camino Frances (Camino de Santiago)
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The Dingle Way
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Adlerweg (Eagle's Way)
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Tour des Combins
Where to go walking in Europe
Our experts' top picks
With so much to choose from, trying to pick favourites feels like a fool’s errand. If pushed I'd say my best walking memories are in the Pyrenees, the Austrian Tirol and the Italian Dolomites, but all the following are well worth your consideration.
French Pyrenees
The Pyrenees
The magnificent range separating France from Spain stretches over 400km from the Mediterranean to the Bay of Biscay, where it nudges the Cantabrian mountains. Though its peaks don’t scale the heights reached by the Alps – the tallest is Aneto at 3404m – the massif is a treat for walkers, with numerous waymarked long-distance routes at varying altitudes and levels of challenge, and far fewer feet tramping those trails.
Balkans
The Balkans
Southeast Europe and the Balkans offer some of the finest mountain hikes in Europe.
There are some superb long distance hiking trails in the Balkans, several of which I’d include among my favourite walks anywhere in the world – yet for the most part, they are much less-known than routes in the Alps or the Pyrenees, and see far fewer visitors. The more remote routes require a bit more confidence and experience than some of Europe’s better known mountain playgrounds – but this is at the same time one of their great draw-cards.
Portugal
Rota Vicentina, Portugal
Portugal promises great value and crowd-free walking holidays with fascinating history and excellent food & wine to boot.
The Rota Vicentina comprises twin trails running north from the western Algarve through the Alentejo: the inland Historical Way and – my pick – the 226.5km coastal Fishermen’s Trail, traversing ancient cork-oak woods, wildflower-spangled cliffs and charming fishing villages. Both are blessed with good accommodation en route.
Tyrol Mountains
Austrian Tirol
The westernmost finger of Austria, sandwiched between Bavaria and northern Italy, is essentially all mountain – the Tirol (and its westerly neighbour, little Vorarlberg) is a coherent picture of classic Alpine scenery.
The Tirol’s flagship long-distance trail is the Adlerweg (Eagle’s Way), a challenging 300km trek between St Anton and St Johann; variant routes allow less-experienced trekkers to bypass the more technical sections. The Stubai Höhenweg is a beautiful 55km, six-day high-level hike between huts perched above the namesake valley south of Innsbruck – not easy, but not technical and accessible to most fit walkers.
Dolomites
Italian Dolomites
In Italy’s far northeast, soaring limestone shards pierce the sky in jagged pinnacles and ridges reminiscent of the mountains of Patagonia, set ablaze by the setting sun in the characteristic enrosadira or alpenglow. I'd argue the Dolomites, are the most beautiful section of the Alps, with a character distinct from neighbouring massifs in geological, cultural and linguistic terms.
Six waymarked Alta Via (High Route) trails wind roughly north-south through the Dolomites; of which the 120km Alta Via 1 (AV1) is the easiest and most popular.
Europe
Carpathian Mountains
Sweeping in a 1450km-long crescent from the Czech Republic and western Slovakia, the Carpathians skirt southern Poland and curve through southwestern Ukraine and across the middle of Romania to the Serbian border. The High Tatra mountains, on the Polish-Slovakian border, have become known for good-value skiing but are also blessed with well-marked hiking trails and mountain refuges, while Romania’s Făgăraș and Retezat Mountains are wilder and far less visited.
Tatranská magistrála is the classic three-day traverse of the High Tatras, a waymarked 49.5km route from Podbanské to Skalnaté.
Europe
The Alps
No roundup of Europe's walking hotspots can ignore the continent's greatest and most famous mountain range.
The Alps stretch some 1,200 km from east to west and span more than half a dozen countries – so not surprisingly, they’re home to some of the finest hiking trails and most sublime scenery that the continent has to offer.
The Tour du Mont Blanc draws all the crowds, but there's so much more to walking here.
Ireland
Ireland
From the towering cliffs of the Wild Atlantic coastline, to ancient, glacier-carved valleys, forgotten peninsulas and the impressive peaks of the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, Ireland is a walking holiday paradise.
Whichever corner of Ireland you find yourself in, you won’t have to travel far to find an empty beach or green fields for a breath of fresh air. There aren't many countries so perfectly-made for bracing hikes and easy-going rambles.
Planning a walking holiday in Europe
Everything you wish you’d known before you booked
Avoiding the crowds
Europe is a famously popular and, in places, crowded travel destination. Escaping the bustle on a walking holiday in Europe's more-remote corners is a good way to escape the day trippers, tour buses and cruise ships that plague the continent’s busier hotspots.
That said, even Europe’s walking destinations can fall foul of tourism booms. Certain routes, such as the Tour du Mont Blanc and the Camino Frances, have become increasingly popular in recent years, and soaring demand means that even dorm beds in mountain huts can get booked out many months in advance. Plan well ahead, or try an alternative. Perhaps try the shorter Tour des Combins instead of the Tour du Mont Blanc, or tackle the Camino Primitivo rather than the Camino Frances.
If you do hike the more popular routes, start early each morning and expect long lines at pinch-points and snaking up steep passes. Stock up on food beforehand in cheaper spots, and take earplugs for noisy dorms.
What's in a name?
Europe's 12 official "E-paths" are a network of trans-national long-distance paths designated by the European Ramblers Association (www.era-ewv-ferp.com). Some routes span over 10,000km; the E1, for example, stretches from the northern tip of Norway through Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Switzerland and Italy, ending in northern Sicily. Of these E-paths, many sections comprise shorter (but still multi-day) numbered Grande Randonées (great hikes); you’ll see the familiar white and red horizontal stripes of GR routes painted on rocks and trees, mostly in France, Spain, Belgium and the Netherlands but also elsewhere in Europe.
Europe walking holiday types
Broadly speaking, European walking holidays fall into three categories: fully independent, self-guided and guided. The first is self-explanatory: you do all the planning, booking and navigating yourself, carrying your luggage along the trail. Clearly, this reduces costs and can be enormously satisfying for the hardier hiker. For most European hiking destinations you’ll find an abundance of information to help both pre-trip organisation and on-the-ground efforts. However, it involves forward planning and some mastery of navigation – you’ll need to be self-reliant en route.
Guided walking holidays
A guided trip, whether joining a group of like-minded strangers or booking a package for yourself or your family, is ideal for first-time trekkers, solo travellers and those venturing to more remote or challenging destinations. Accompanied by an experienced guide, with all accommodation and transport pre-booked and, usually, luggage transferred between stops, you need worry about nothing but enjoying the walk; it’s also a great way to meet new friends. Naturally, it’s significantly more expensive.
Self-guided walking holidays
An excellent in-between option is a self-guided hike. Typically, all accommodation is pre-booked, usually including breakfasts and, sometimes, dinners (less commonly lunches); luggage is transferred between overnight stops; you’ll receive maps and detailed route notes; local telephone support may be available; and transfers from/to airports or other transport hubs may also be included.
There’s a greater degree of flexibility in terms of pace, duration and daily distances. Self-guided trips are available for many well-known long-distance trails across Europe, or shorter sections of them, most commonly less-challenging routes. For reasons of cost, safety and enjoyment, self-guided trips are best suited to couples or small groups of friends, though solo hikers also benefit.
Hotel-to-hotel vs centre-based walking holidays
Finally, a decision for self-guided walking holidays is your preferred format, either inn-to-inn or centre-based.
Long-distance hikes usually move from one place to another each day, staying in hotels or inns, hostels or mountain huts, or even camping. Alternatively, you may choose to base yourself in one place, taking transfers to trailheads each morning then returning to the same accommodation each night, thereby avoiding the need to repack your luggage each morning.
Some tour operators offer the option to mix these approaches, staying in each base for several nights but moving between accommodation as you progress along a trail.
Europe walking FAQs
Your questions, our expert answers
Question
When is the best time to go walking or hiking in Europe?
Answer
High trails in most European mountain ranges open only during high summer, when they’re free from snow – typically late June to September. Of course, the weather can turn even then – I’ve waded through thigh-deep drifts in August in the Austrian Tirol. Hiking the Greek Islands, Turkey, Catalonia or the Portuguese coast is best in spring or autumn; in winter, head for the Canary Islands, Madeira or Andalucía.
As the warmest, driest weather typically also coincides with peak tourism season, I generally advise people to go in the “shoulder season” either side of high summer.
Snow covers most mountain trails over about 1,500–2,000m between late September and early to mid-June, depending on location; mountain huts/refuges tend to open only during that period, effectively defining the trekking season.
The best Europe walking holidays in Summer
August is usually the busiest month, so availability of accommodation is often better and paths more peaceful in late June/early July or September. For summer, consider the Alps, the French Pyrenees, Scandinavia, the Carpathians or the mountains of the Balkans, as well as river routes such as the Moselsteig and Danausteig (Danube Trail) in Germany and Austria.
High summer is too hot for hiking in much of Greece, Provence, Italy, southern Spain and Portugal, coastal Croatia and Albania. Here, spring rewards walkers with cooler conditions and wildflowers spangling meadows and trails; Spain’s Alpujarras and Mallorca are strewn with almond and orange blossom, and Catalonia is warmly enticing. Keep in mind that northern Portugal and Spain receive a lot of rain in spring and autumn; not for nothing is Galicia, through which the latter stages of the Camino de Santiago run, known as the heart of España Verde – ‘Green Spain’.
The best Europe walking holidays in September & October
Autumn brings blazing fall foliage and, in wine-producing regions, grape-harvest festivals. The Czech Republic and Slovenia are great for hiking in September and October, while Portugal’s Douro Valley and the hills of Tuscany, both striped with vines, are treats for trekkers in autumn.
Walking in winter
For winter walking in warm sunshine, head to Madeira or the Canary Islands – the dramatic volcanic landscapes of La Gomera, La Palma and Tenerife are laced with footpaths. Alternatively, crunch through crisp snow on dedicated winter trails in Bavaria or Austria; many Alpine regions are well set-up for cold-season hiking.
Question
What are your favourite walks or regions, and why?
Answer
My old boss – a former trekking guide – once described the Pyrenees as being ‘seven and a half times as beautiful as the Alps’. He’s not far wrong; as well as harbouring pockets of unique culture (try the Val d’Aran, where the ancient Occitan dialect is still spoken), its trails are much quieter and wilder. That said, the less-tramped paths of the Austrian TIrol and the Italian Dolomites are hard to top.
Question
What sort of accommodation should I expect on a Europe walking holiday?
Answer
Camping is possible on most routes but usually unnecessary, except in particularly remote stretches of, for example, the Romanian Carpathians. Most European countries with good mountain trails have a well-developed network of simple, comfortable and cheap accommodation in dormitories. They offer either individual beds, bunks or, in matratzenlager/dortoirs, oversized mattresses big enough to sleep several people; you’ll usually need to bring your own sleeping bag or sheet sleeper (where blankets are provided). Some offer showers and good food; others, in spots such as Bulgaria, may have no hot water and only basic squat toilets – but are usually in spectacular locations.
Private rooms may be available in such huts, particularly in France, Italy and Switzerland.
On pilgrimage trails, notably the Camino de Santiago in Spain and Portugal, basic albergues (hostels) cater exclusively to pilgrims who carry a credencial (pilgrim passport). Wherever you trek, apart from on high mountain trails (and sometimes even there), you’ll find comfortable gîtes d’étapes (walkers’ guesthouses, often in a town or village), guesthouses, B&Bs and hotels.
Prices vary enormously: a dorm bed in a refuge in Bulgaria or an albergue in Spain might cost as little as €7 or €8, though you’ll pay two or three times that much in equivalent refuges in France or mountain huts in Austria, still more in Norway and Switzerland. Half-board options are generally good value, and sometimes mandatory, in such places. B&Bs and hotels start from about three times those prices – say, £25 per double room at the cheaper end, three or four times as much in pricier destinations.
If you opt for an organised trip with a Europe walking holiday specialist, many of these details will be taken care of on your behalf. Depending on the operator and location you may have options to tailor your accommodation standard (and budget), and things like meals and baggage transfer will be arranged for you.
Question
How much does a Europe walking holiday cost?
Answer
Prices for self-guided trips are surprisingly uniform at around £100/€115 per day – a little less for cheaper destinations such as Albania, Poland, Portugal and Spain, a little more for Switzerland, Iceland and Italy. Differences are greater between tour operators, and to an extent depend on the level of accommodation offered – obviously, dorms in mountain huts cost less, comfortable hotels more – but not as much as you might expect.
Guided tours vary more widely, because staff costs are much higher in countries such as Iceland, Norway and Switzerland, and lower in Slovakia and Bulgaria, where prices for guided trips can be under £100/€110 per day.
You’ll also typically need to factor in the cost of transport to the start of the walk, local transfers, tips, insurance (covering treks to the maximum altitude on your route) and any additional food and drinks – a cold beer, glass of wine, ouzo or raki is a wonderful way to round off a day’s hiking.
Question
Can you recommend the best Camino?
Answer
The vast majority of the half-million-ish peregrinos (pilgrims) who tramp to Santiago de Compostela each year follow the Camino Frances, the mostly gentle trail across northern Spain from St Jean-Pied-de-Port on the French border. In my opinion it’s fine, though in the main not visually dramatic, and pretty busy. But it’s also far from the only option: there are a good half-dozen trails heading north through Portugal, plus others through Spain. I’d opt for the original route, dubbed the Camino Primitivo, trekking 200 miles from Oviedo through the Asturian Hills – much more peaceful and challenging.
Question
Can you recommend anywhere like the Alps but less popular?
Answer
Word is getting out about the Albanian Alps – sometimes dubbed the ‘Accursed Mountains’ – which remain much less developed, but also boast soaring karst peaks with forest-clad flanks and traditional villages. Slovenia’s Julian Alps are developed in patches, particularly the northern and eastern regions, but it’s simple to escape crowds – head high or west, towards the Soca Valley.
Question
What are the hardest and easiest walks in Europe?
Answer
The GR20 tracing the jagged spine of Corsica has a reputation as a major challenge – not just because of tough terrain and hefty ascents, but also because you’re a stiff haul from the nearest settlements for much of the route.
Coastal walks along Italy’s Cinque Terre are pretty but fairly easy. Germany riverside trails tend to be, unsurprisingly, less physically challenging; try the Moselweg.
Question
Where are the best places for self-guided walking holidays in Europe?
Answer
Switzerland is almost too easy: in popular walking regions such as the Bernese Oberland, frequent yellow waymarkers indicate destinations and astonishingly accurate walking times, so it’s pretty much impossible to get badly lost, and very safe (though pricey, of course). You won’t be alone for long on the Camino Frances, the most commonly followed pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela through northern Spain, either.
Question
Can you recommend any places for a cheap walking holiday in Europe?
Answer
Portugal offers great value for walkers: in many places you’ll still pay just €1 for a coffee, not much more for a cold beer, and delectable food is served in generous portions. You’ll get a relatively big bang for your lev or euro in Bulgaria or Slovakia, too.
Question
I don’t speak any European languages, will it be easy to travel?
Answer
It varies. In much of Scandinavia, Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Slovenia, no problem – English is almost universally spoken, certainly in hiking areas. You’ll easily find English-speaking guides in other popular trekking regions, including parts of the Balkans, Turkey and Greece. If you’re solo walking in France, Spain, Italy or Portugal, you’ll want to learn even a few words of the local lingo.
Question
What should I pack for a walking holiday in Europe?
Answer
It’s vital to don the right pair of boots or shoes, and wear them in before setting out: a blister or bruise sustained on day one can ruin the whole trip. Mountain treks generally call for boots with ankle support and rugged soles (typically Vibram); leather, which needs more wearing in, is preferably to fabric in these conditions, though the latter is fine for lower-level or warm-weather walks, preferably with a Gore-Tex or similar breathable waterproof lining. Good socks are also essential: merino wool is best, for socks as well as T-shirt base layers, reducing odour and remaining comfortable and warm when wet.
If you’re carrying your own luggage between overnight stops, choose a hiking-specific rucksack with good hip and shoulder support. If you’re on a supported trek that includes luggage transfers, take a soft-sided duffle bag and a 30–35L daypack. Whichever backpack you choose, ensure it takes a hydration bladder – on most trails you’ll drink at least 2L of water each day. A water filter or purification tablets is useful for filling bottles from mountain streams.
Lightweight, adjustable, packable walking poles are handy, particularly if you’re carrying a large pack or undertaking steep or extended descents; flick-lock extension systems tend to be more robust than twist-lock. Black Diamond and Leki are respected brands. A breathable waterproof jacket is essential in most destinations, particularly in mountain regions where weather can change rapidly, along with a hat, sunglasses, sunscreen and a basic first-aid kit for treating blisters, cuts, sprains and stings.
Question
Are wild animals a problem while walking in Europe?
Answer
Though wolves and bears roam the wilder expanses of Europe’s highlands, you’re unlikely to encounter one. What you might come across, though, are shepherds’ dogs bred and trained to ferociously defend livestock against predators – and human interlopers – particularly in the Carpathians, Balkans and Caucasus. I’ve suffered unnerving canine encounters in Bulgaria and North Macedonia, where I was thankful to have experienced local guides – also my trusty walking poles. (While we’re talking animal hazards, tick-removal tools are must-packs, too.)
Further reading
Useful Europe walking resources
Several publishers produce excellent, detailed guidebooks for specific treks or regions, including maps and route notes:
Cicerone produces the most comprehensive list of trekking and walking guides, covering many long-distance trails worldwide including most of the main European routes.
Trailblazer guides are expertly researched, with helpful hand-drawn maps, reducing confusion where waymarks are ambiguous. The list is particularly strong on British trails, but also features some international treks.
Sunflower publishes collections of day-walks for a host of destinations, including much of Europe.
Numerous local and regional organisations provide advice and practical resources.
The Austrian Alpine Club manages hundreds of mountain huts in Austria and has reciprocal arrangements with similar organisations in other European countries. The website of the UK branch has plenty of information for hikers and mountaineers.
The European Ramblers Association has details of the 12 ultra-long-distance E-Paths as well as routes classified as Leading Quality Trails, and describes the four dominant systems of waymarking across the continent.
The Confraternity of St James provides information on the various caminos to Santiago plus other European pilgrimage trails.