Rwanda
Everything in one perfect package
One of Africa's last-known tourist destinations, tiny Rwanda gets a fraction of the visitors of neighbouring Kenya and Tanzania -- but not for long. Tucked just below Uganda, it sits on the Albertine Rift which divides the Congo and Nile water catchment areas. This makes it one of Africa's most biodiverse regions. And unlike many other African countries, you can drive across it in a matter of hours. The result? A host of exceptional wildlife experiences within very close proximity.
Many people know about mountain gorillas, and Rwanda is one of the best places to see them. But there's also the Akagera National Park, home to all the big five. And Nyungwe Forest, a unique ecosystem where you can spot chimps, trek to waterfalls and cross a 70-metre high walking suspension bridge. Once you've had your fill of adventure, you can relax on the shores of spectacular Lake Kivu. It's one of Africa's most picturesque lakes with hardly a tourist around. For now.
Hidden gems in Rwanda
Volcanoes National Park
Accessible gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park
Volcanoes National Park, which protects the Rwandan slopes of the volcanic Virunga Mountains, has positioned itself as Africa’s premier gorilla tracking destination. One reason for its popularity is that it lies a short drive north of the Rwandan capital Kigali, making it a convenient add-on to any multi-country African trip or Big Five safari elsewhere in the region. Another is the association with Dian Fossey; the iconic primatologist worked here for two decades prior to her death, and several scenes in the Oscar-winning movie Gorillas in the Mist were shot here too. In my experience, Volcanoes generally offers relatively easy tracking conditions compared to Bwindi, its main rival, and the range of luxury lodges bordering the park is second to none. A negative for budget conscious visitors is the relatively hefty price tag of US$1,500 for one of the park’s 96 daily tracking permits. Once here, other recommended activities include tracking a habituated troop of endangered golden monkeys, the day climb to the spectacular crater lake at 3,711m summit of Mount Bisoke, and a hike to Dian Fossey’s grave at her abandoned research centre.
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Volcanoes National Park
Red Rocks camping & hostel
For an altogether different – but truly authentic – community experience, you might consider Red Rocks in Musanze, near VNP entrance. There is a campsite here, with safari tents provided, also traditional Rwandan–style cottages and a hostel. It’s very basic and simple, but they are famed for their collaborative, inclusive community model.
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Volcanoes National Park
Villa Gorilla Musanze
Another more budget-friendly and Rwandan-owned accommodation near Volcanoes National Park is Villa Gorilla Musanze. It’s got everything you need at a reasonable price, and the owners are exceptionally knowledgeable and friendly.
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Volcanoes National Park
Five Volcanoes Boutique Hotel
A more reasonably-priced option is the Rwandan-owned Five Volcanoes Boutique Hotel, located in Musanze near the Volcanoes National Park entrance. It comprises 14 simple but comfortable chalets and stone cottages with outdoor verandas, plus a pool in a verdant garden setting.
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Volcanoes National Park
Singita Kwitonda Lodge
Singita Kwitonda Lodge, positioned on the edge of Rwanda's Volcanoes National Park features a selection of suites and a private villa, with rates reaching around $2,995 per person per night in high season. The lodge is owned by the Singita company, headquartered in South Africa.
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Volcanoes National Park
Bisate Lodge
Bisate Lodge, about 20 minutes’ drive from VNP entrance, is another punchily-priced, high-end lodge, owned by Wilderness Destinations, headquartered in Botswana. The lodge comprises six birds-nest style villas set within the natural amphitheatre of an eroded volcanic cone. High season rates start at USD $3,230 per person, per night.
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Volcanoes National Park
Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge
This is a community-owned property, belonging to the Sabyinyo Community Livelihood Association (SACOLA) which was established to support conservation initiatives around Volcanoes National Park. The lodge is operated by Wilderness Destinations. It’s far from cheap, but I like the community-owned model as a way to keep more tourist money in the local economy.
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Volcanoes National Park
Gorilla's Nest
Gorilla’s Nest is located minutes from the entrance to Volcanoes National Park and set against a backdrop of dense eucalyptus forest. The property is owned by One&Only, in turn owned by Dubai-headquartered Kerzner International. This is another of Rwanda’s more famous high-end lodges. High season prices start at around $7,300 per night.
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Volcanoes National Park
Virunga Lodge
An hour’s drive from VNP entrance - but with the region’s most spectacular views - is Condé Nast Travel award winner Virunga Lodge, owned by UK-based Volcanoes Safaris. The lodge boasts hilltop views of volcanoes in one direction and twin lakes in the other. It’s certainly not cheap, but this is the place to stay if you’re really pushing the boat out.
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Gishwati-Makura National Park
Community conservation in Gishwati-Makura
Rwanda’s newest national park, Gishwati-Mukura was gazetted in 2016 to protect a pair of relict forest blocks on the Rift Valley escarpment above Lake Kivu. It offers sensational sunset views to the volcanic peaks of the Virungas, while wildlife includes the very localised golden monkey and L’Hoest’s monkey, along with 230 bird species and a small semi-habituated community of chimps. A unique feature of this small national park is that its creation was driven by local community members to help arrest soil erosion and fatal landslides caused by deforestation. Since sustainable community management policies were first initiated in 2015, several buffer zones have benefitted from reforestation and chimp numbers have grown from fewer than 15 to more than 35. Pros: Visiting Gishwati-Mukura helps support an important community-driven conservation initiative. Visitor numbers are low and you are likely to have the forest to yourself. Cons: Gishwati-Mukura’s chimps are still being habituated, so sightings are far from certain and most individuals are quite shy. Access to the forest is restricted to overnight guests at the community-run Forest of Hope guesthouse and campsite.
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Nyungwe National Park
Explore the canopy of Nyungwe National Park
It feels slightly reductive to refer to Nyungwe as a chimp-trekking destination. East Africa’s largest montane rainforest blankets a series of mountains that tumble like monstrous green waves either side of the main road that bisects it. Nyungwe also harbours an exceptional biodiversity, thanks to an altitudinal span of 1,600m to 2,950m. True, the main motivation for most visits is to see chimps. But it is worth dedicating several days to exploring Nyungwe’s spectacular scenery, exceptional birdlife and primate diversity along a 180km network of forest trails that includes East Africa’s only suspended canopy walk. Pros: Easily accessed on a surfaced road, Nyungwe combines well with gorilla trekking in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park and a Big Five safari in Akagera National Park. Chimps aside, Nyungwe offers a variety of activities that will keep keen hikers and wildlife enthusiasts busy for days. Cons: Trekking here can be tough going. Expect a pre-dawn start and drive of around two hours to reach the trailhead in good time. Once there, slopes are steep and slippery, and sightings are less reliable than the likes of Mahale or Kibale.
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Rwanda travel companies
East Africa
Natural World Kenya Safaris
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