Best times for trekking in the Indian Himalaya
The two best seasons to go trekking to most sections of the Indian Himalaya are summer (mid-April to mid-June), and autumn (mid-September to mid-November); I prefer the latter for crisp views and lighter crowds).
The exception to this rule is the trans-Himalayan region that includes Ladakh, and a small section of Himachal Pradesh called Spiti. These regions lie in the rain shadow area of the mountain range, and the summer trekking season there is largely between July and September, when the rest of India is in the middle of a raging monsoon.
Getting there & around
Nearly every state has a major town or city that you can fly to from New Delhi: Leh for Ladakh, Srinagar for Jammu & Kashmir, Dehradun for western Uttarakhand and Pantnagar for eastern Uttarakhand (Dehradun is around five hours by road from New Delhi and easily doable by train as well, as is Kathgodam train station in the eastern part), and Bagdogra (in West Bengal) or Gangtok for Sikkim. For Himachal Pradesh, the main airport and train stop is Chandigarh, a good seven to eight hours’ drive from most treks. A convenient option is the overnight Volvo buses that ply between New Delhi and Manali, a popular starting point, and Himachal’s capital Shimla as well. Nearly all mountain states have a solid shared jeep network that operates locally, which are way more reliable and punctual than local buses. Taxis can also be hired privately, a pricey but good way to travel comfortably and on your own timeline.
Permits & safety
A lot of the trekking routes, especially those in border areas such as Ladakh, parts of Uttarakhand, Jammu & Kashmir, require an Inner Line Permit and sometimes other permits. These are best organised via a tour agency to skip the hassles of red tape. Check the weather reports before leaving and stay updated on road conditions, carry high quality waterproof gear, book flexible tickets— factor in delays and keep additional days in hand for road blocks, and use a reliable operator well equipped to handle the unexpected as there is no 911/emergency operation system in India.
DIY vs organised tours
Most foreign trekkers come here as part of an organised tour which will include your guides, meals, porters, transportation, camping equipment and accommodation. Booking with a big international brand has its appeal but be aware that actual experience on the ground will probably be handled by local tour operators. You can book the same thing directly with a local operator for a fraction of the cost. Do all the usual due diligence and look for operators that are locally owned and have a clear commitment to low impact, responsible tourism.
You can hike here independently without an organised tour – I’ve been doing it for decades! But I would absolutely caution against attempting even slightly ambitious treks without a guide. In the more popular trekking hubs like Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh you can find freelance guides advertising in cafes and hostels. You can also ask your accommodation for recommendations – the small commission is probably worth a good recommendation. Facebook groups like Backpackers And Travellers of India might be useful.
Trekking in India vs Nepal
Sure, Nepal has all the highest peaks, but few casual trekkers go anywhere near a summit. In the valleys and mountain passes, both countries share incredible scenery, traditional cultures and surprisingly diverse landscapes. So what’s the difference between trekking in Nepal and India?
For me it boils down to the degree of organisation and development in the two countries' trekking industries.
Nepal’s status as the world trekking capital has made its tourism infrastructure highly streamlined and efficient. Paperwork and permits are simple, trekking services are well developed, and a vast range of accommodation ranges from simple to uber-lux.
In contrast, trekking on the Indian side is simpler and more rustic. Indeed, while Nepal takes steps to clamp down on its independent trekking scene, you might find that India – providing you’re happy roughing it with bucket baths and local food – is the new Nepal for solo trekkers.
