Morocco
The hospitable gateway to Africa



Sat at the crossroads between Africa and Europe, Morocco is a land of contrasts. Major cities with art-deco centres lead to rural areas that are as diverse as their residents. Rural oases gaze out over the Sahara Desert, while the snow-capped Atlas Mountains tower over the country.
A riot of colour at every turn, a burst of flavour in every plate, and the gentle call to prayer five times per day awaken senses. To best understand Morocco, roll up your sleeves and learn to cook a traditional tagine, soak up the surf culture along its coastline, or learn one of the traditional trades (zellig tilework, leathersmithing, or even coppersmithing) from a master craftsman.
The cuisine — fresh from the field, valleys and oceans — is known for being flavourful rather than spicy. But it’s the warm hospitality and enriching encounters that make a trip to Morocco unforgettable.
Hidden gems in Morocco
Dadès Valley
Dadès Valley
PlaceThe Dadès Valley, a quiet corner in the ochre-walled oasis valleys between the High Atlas and Anti-Atlas ranges, draws a fraction of the hikers as Jebel Toubkal to the west or Jebel Saghro to the east. Much less touched by tourism, the settlements here follow a more traditional pace of life, with original berber villages and what remains of the valley’s “one thousand kasbahs” some of which date back to the 11th century. My personal highlight, and possibly my favourite place to hike anywhere in Morocco, is the Valley of the Roses, which follows the M’goun River from Kalaat M'Gouna as it detours north from the Dadès Valley. Here, damask roses which were first planted by French settlers are harvested each May. It’s a deeply traditional and picturesque part of the country and one where you’ll be untroubled by other tourists.
Read moreJebel Sirwa
Jebel Sirwa
PlaceJebel Sirwa in the Anti-Atlas range is another crowd-free alternative to Toubkal. The scenery here is classic Anti-Atlas landscapes of traditional Berber villages in green oasis valleys which give way to stark, rocky mountain peaks. The focal point for hikes here is Jebel Sirwa. At 3,305 metres the summit is a relatively straightforward climb but the harsh sun, a lack of shade and narrow, rocky paths make it a moderately challenging hike. One I’d recommend for seasoned hikers who want to do something different to the standard Toubkal or M'goun treks.
Read moreMerzouga
Erg Chebbi for accessible desert trekking
PlaceThe village of Merzouga has accommodation to suit all budgets, and you can arrange everything from a sunset camel safari to sandboarding, quad biking, overnight camping and longer treks. Erg Chebbi is Morocco’s most accessible stretch of Sahara, with dunes around 22 kilometres long and 25 kilometres wide, reaching lofty heights of 160m in places. It is especially striking at sunset, turning from orange to pink and purple as the night sky glitters with stars. Then you might tuck into madfouna, or ‘Berber pizza’, a stuffed flatbread baked in a fire pit buried in the sand, before a campfire drumming session. Campsites can be just 15 minutes from Merzouga by 4x4 or a couple of hours by camel. The downsides: convoys of vehicles dropping off people and supplies in high season, quad bikes overtaking camel caravans and being across a dune from another camp. If you want more solitude, choose your camp carefully or go out of season. For a real hidden gem, the village of Khamlia, six kilometres south of Merzouga, is home to Dar Gnaoua, where musicians – including the renowned Les Pigeons du Sable – celebrate their sub-Saharan African roots, performing to an enthusiastic crowd, shaking krakebs (metal castanets) and keeping their hypnotic beat on tbel drums.
Read moreTafraoute
Anti-Atlas Range
PlaceStretching from the Atlantic Ocean inland toward the Sahara Desert is the Anti-Atlas Range, another of Morocco's lesser-visited trekking locations. Although technically part of the same geological system, the Anti-Atlas couldn't be any more different to the High Atlas. The peaks are much lower and the scenery is a semi-arid landscape of jagged mountains and rugged gorges. Vastly fewer trekkers come here compared to the High Atlas, making this a refreshing change to the touristy bustle further north. The Anti-Atlas Mountain town of Tafraoute, gateway to the stunning AmeIn Valley, is worth a visit for a night or two allowing for at least a day hike, or just a break for travellers heading to/from the Sahara Desert. Famous for its almonds, colourful babouche slippers particular to the region, and even as a starting point for cycling up to the blue rocks and spotting prehistoric rock carvings. There are rewarding hikes around the AmeIn Valley, with most travellers starting in the village of Oumesnat and following paths that lead through neighbouring villages and pass argan and almond trees dotting the landscape. In the valley’s village of Asgaour, the rockface resembling a lion’s head is one to find amongst the craggy rocks. The trails can be navigated without a guide, but be mindful of limited shade and strong sun. My advice is to visit with a trekking operator: it will be rare to find anyone speaking English and replenishing water and food supplies may be tricky. Pack sunscreen and snacks accordingly.
Read moreSahara Desert
M’hamid for Sahara adventures
PlaceM’hamid is the last Moroccan outpost before the Algerian border, where the road dissolves into sand and the desert takes over. It’s the jumping-off point for the dramatic dunes of Erg Chigaga, 60 kilometres to the west – around two hours by 4x4, or a thrilling three day trek by camel. Erg Chigaga, Morocco’s longest and highest sand sea, ripples for around 40 kilometres with dunes topping 300m. It’s wilder and less visited than Erg Chebbi, and its camps are more isolated, but the off-road journey to get there is more expensive. On the way, there are stops at panoramic viewpoints and perhaps a mint tea break with desert nomads outside their goat-hair tent. From your campsite, you can trek on foot or by camel, scramble up and sandboard down a towering dune, and savour the sunset and stellar desert views before stargazing from a carpet spread across the sand and music around the campfire. Look out for nocturnal wildlife: the fennec, with its enormous ears, is the smallest fox species, and sand cats are the only desert-dwelling felines. On a morning trek, your guide will point out its tiny tracks zigzagging across the dunes.
Read moreEssaouira
Morocco's Atlantic coast
PlaceMost trekking in Morocco focuses on the Atlas Mountains and the Sahara Desert, but the country has a long coastline and a rich maritime history which can be explored on foot well away from the regular tourist trail. I like the stretch of coast south of Essaouira, you can spend four or five days here following the old Portuguese trade routes and visiting small fishing villages and beach towns along the way. Historical Essaouira itself is a good place to spend a night or two at the end of your hike.
Read moreRif Mountains
Talassemtane and the Rif Mountains
PlaceNestled in the heart of the Rif Mountains, the blue city of Chefchaouen and nearby Talassemtane National Park offer trekkers a welcome escape to the Toubkal bustle. Once inside Talassemtane National Park, quiet paths wind through cedar forests, across high ridges and past tiny Berber villages. The main attraction here when hiking alongside, and sometimes through, the river was the awe-inspiring Bridge of God, a 30-metre high natural bridge connecting the canyon, where we swam in the waters below. This is a popular spot in the summer months, particularly with vacationing locals. Nevertheless, when travelling in this region, I still hired a local guide who also organised transport. For longer treks, a guide is highly recommended, not only to lead the way, but for organising donkeys to transport supplies, assisting with any unexpected medical emergencies, and they can often provide gear for the journey. The region is known for its (illegal) marijuana cultivation, and a guide will help you stay well aware of the areas that are best avoided.
Read moreToubkal National Park
Toubkal National Park
PlaceNo round-up of Morocco trekking highlights can ignore Toubkal National Park in the High Atlas Range, the highest and most extensive stretch of the Atlas Mountains. Home to Jebel (Mount) Toubkal, North Africa’s highest peak, this is by far Morocco's most popular hiking destination. It's a region of sparse, rocky and snow-capped (in winter) peaks and lush green valleys below with blossoming fruit trees in the spring, which make for some excellent trekking and hiking, although one that draws significant crowds. While the tourism industry likes to push the two-day Mt Toubkal trek, I'd highly recommend making time for the six-day Toubkal Circuit trek. The trailhead is just beyond the village of Imlil, where most visitors disembark to start their hike. Hiring a guide to accompany non-locals on the journey is a must, in fact, it’s mandatory. I’d suggest hiring an official guide to avoid any faux guides who may be hanging around en route. Licensed guides are typically local and undergo training to earn their certification to help trekkers navigate the way, the weather and organise supplies for the journey. For a shorter hike, depart Imlil to wander through lush green valleys, climbing up to one of the mountainside Amazigh villages or an approximately six-hour trek to Sidi Chamharouch, a pre-Islamic pilgrimage site known for healing health issues or exorcising spirits. From Marrakech, a day trip to Ouzoud Waterfalls makes for a refreshing day out. The trail is easily marked, meaning just organise transport and you can easily follow the path to the canyon where two-tiered waterfalls cascade. Be mindful of the Barbary apes you may encounter while passing through the shaded areas.
Read moreAit Bougmez Valley
Aït Bougmez Valley & M'goun Massif
PlaceFew hikers make it to Aït Bougmez, a valley running along the M'goun Massif in Morocco's Central High Atlas mountains. Those who do are rewarded with lush pastures, picturesque views across the valley and hospitable locals who don’t let language barriers get in the way—and some of the best trekking in Morocco. Every spring, the nomadic Ait Atta tribes make a two-week trek to the Aït Bougmez Valley. Once here, they graze their herds in the valley’s rich pastures and sparkling rivers fed from glacial lakes before returning home for the winter. Avid trekkers can join for the transhumance (livestock migration), an activity that may be best done sooner rather than later given the decline of traditional nomadic life. The village of Agouti is the starting point for a scenic three- or six-day trek to the M’Goun Massif, the second highest peak in Morocco (after Jebel Toubkal in the nearby Toubkal National Park). Hire a mountain guide to accompany you and plan to stay in gites along the way. This trek is best done from spring to fall, before the harsh winters descend on the valley. Staying in the valley provides opportunity for day treks to a glacial lake where nomadic tribes graze their herds in the summer months, or multi-day treks traversing the valley. With little signage and few restaurants, it is best to visit with a Morocco trekking operator, or find your own trekking guide locally who will also coordinate muleteers and piping hot cuisine along the way.
Read moreAtlas Mountains
Jebel Sirwa trek
ExperienceThe 3,305 metre Jebel Sirwa makes for a moderately challenging climb, mostly for the trail and sun conditions than the elevation gain itself. This trek involves about five days of hiking with mules and a mixture of wild camping and traditional gite homestays. The landscapes here are on the severe side, but the views over the Anti-Atlas range from Jebel Sirwa summit are incredible and even better: you’re unlikely to be sharing them with any other hikers.
Read moreDadès Valley
Valley of the Roses trek
ExperienceThe Valley of the Roses detours north from the Dadès Valley at Kalaat M'Gouna and is the heart of Morocco’s rose growing country. This hike follows the M’goun river as it weaves past thick bushes of the valley’s namesake damask roses with a stunning backdrop of traditional Berber villages and the remains of hilltop kasbahs. It’s an easy-going hike at lower altitudes than other Atlas Mountain treks, suitable for all abilities. It’s usually four days’ hiking, with the option of extending the trip into the Dadès Valley. Accommodation is in traditional gite-style homestays. Come in May to witness the rose harvest and local festivals.
Read moreSahara Desert
Trekking in Iriqui National Park
ExperienceOne of my favourite trekking destinations in the Sahara is the vast Iriqui National Park, the only national park in the Moroccan Sahara. The park was established 30 years ago but is not well publicised or well known to visitors, making it a real hidden gem. My preferred route is a four day hike from Mhamid following the Draa Valley via the dune regions of Erg Zahar, Erg Sedrar and Erg Chigaga before reaching Iriqui. Wild mobile camps means we can set up away from the crowds, and you can either trek by foot or by camel. You might be surprised by the amount of wildlife in Iriqui, although it is elusive and often nocturnal. Some desert species, such as the addax anteolope, have been reintroduced, while others appear to be increasing in numbers, such as the endangered Dorcas gazelle. It's also a great place for bird watching, depending on the time of year.
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Dadès Valley
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Jebel Sirwa
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Erg Chebbi for accessible desert trekking
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Anti-Atlas Range
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M’hamid for Sahara adventures
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Morocco's Atlantic coast
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Talassemtane and the Rif Mountains
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Toubkal National Park
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Aït Bougmez Valley & M'goun Massif
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Jebel Sirwa trek
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Valley of the Roses trek
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Erg Zahar trek
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Erg Chigaga trek
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Talassemtane National Park Circuit
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Chefchaouen to Akchour Waterfalls day hike
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Tichka Plateau Traverse
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Jebel Saghro Loop
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Aït Bougmez Valley
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M’Goun Traverse
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M'goun Circuit trek
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Hike to the Spanish mosque
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