Trekking in the Atlas Mountains
An expert guide to trekking Mount Toubkal & the Atlas
The giant of the Morocco trekking scene, there's little wonder that Toubkal and the Atlas Mountains are the country’s top hiking location.
Home to a majority Amazigh (Berber) population, life in the Atlas Mountains seems to have stood still. This is rural Morocco at its most evocative. Children run freely through valleys. Farmers, both men and women, tend to their plots of land. Donkeys provide a mode of transport for both young and old. Stony pathways wind through the mountains to villages not visible from main roads.
Standing atop of it all is the mighty Jebel (Mount) Toubkal which, at 4,167m, is North Africa's highest peak.
The Atlas (from which the Atlantic Ocean was named) is actually three ranges in one; the Middle Atlas in the country’s north, the High Atlas in central Morocco and the Anti-Atlas in the south. Each is drastically different and provides varied trekking options – even the colourful carpets produced by the many tribes are as diverse as the landscapes.
Agriculturally rich, the trees (apple, cherry, apricot, and even almond and walnut trees) begin to bloom in February throughout the Atlas, creating a riot of colours and smells. The region is popular year-round with locals, but the summer months see many Moroccans escape the heat of nearby Marrakech by heading to the mountains of Toubkal National Park.
By far the most popular trekking location in the Atlas is Toubkal National Park, an hour’s drive from Marrakech. People flock here to climb Jebel Toubkal, but there are many more trekking routes available across the Atlas Mountain ranges.
Ready to go? Here's my expert guide to trekking in the Atlas Mountains.
The M'Goun Circuit trek, the less popular but equally impressive alternative to Toubkal
Where to trek Toubkal & the Atlas Mountains
Our experts' top picks
Get the digested read
Where to begin? When to go? How to plan? So many questions, so little time. That's why our Morocco experts have answered your most frequently asked questions in this handy five-part email series.
Toubkal National Park
Toubkal National Park
Best trek: Toubkal Circuit (six days)
No round-up of Morocco trekking highlights can ignore Toubkal National Park in the High Atlas Range, the highest and most extensive stretch of the Atlas Mountains.
Home to Jebel (Mount) Toubkal, North Africa’s highest peak, this is by far Morocco's most popular hiking destination. It's a region of sparse, rocky and snow-capped (in winter) peaks and lush green valleys below with blossoming fruit trees in the spring, which make for some excellent trekking and hiking, although one that draws significant crowds.
While the tourism industry likes to push the two-day Mt Toubkal trek, I'd highly recommend making time for the six-day Toubkal Circuit trek.
The trailhead is just beyond the village of Imlil, where most visitors disembark to start their hike. Hiring a guide to accompany non-locals on the journey is a must, in fact, it’s mandatory. I’d suggest hiring an official guide to avoid any faux guides who may be hanging around en route. Licensed guides are typically local and undergo training to earn their certification to help trekkers navigate the way, the weather and organise supplies for the journey.
For a shorter hike, depart Imlil to wander through lush green valleys, climbing up to one of the mountainside Amazigh villages or an approximately six-hour trek to Sidi Chamharouch, a pre-Islamic pilgrimage site known for healing health issues or exorcising spirits.
From Marrakech, a day trip to Ouzoud Waterfalls makes for a refreshing day out. The trail is easily marked, meaning just organise transport and you can easily follow the path to the canyon where two-tiered waterfalls cascade. Be mindful of the Barbary apes you may encounter while passing through the shaded areas.
Ait Bougmez Valley
Aït Bougmez Valley & M'goun Massif
Best trek: M'goun Circuit trek (five days)
Few hikers make it to Aït Bougmez, a valley running along the M'goun Massif in Morocco's Central High Atlas mountains. Those who do are rewarded with lush pastures, picturesque views across the valley and hospitable locals who don’t let language barriers get in the way—and some of the best trekking in Morocco.
Every spring, the nomadic Ait Atta tribes make a two-week trek to the Aït Bougmez Valley. Once here, they graze their herds in the valley’s rich pastures and sparkling rivers fed from glacial lakes before returning home for the winter. Avid trekkers can join for the transhumance (livestock migration), an activity that may be best done sooner rather than later given the decline of traditional nomadic life.
The village of Agouti is the starting point for a scenic three- or six-day trek to the M’Goun Massif, the second highest peak in Morocco (after Jebel Toubkal in the nearby Toubkal National Park).
Hire a mountain guide to accompany you and plan to stay in gites along the way. This trek is best done from spring to fall, before the harsh winters descend on the valley.
Staying in the valley provides opportunity for day treks to a glacial lake where nomadic tribes graze their herds in the summer months, or multi-day treks traversing the valley. With little signage and few restaurants, it is best to visit with a Morocco trekking operator, or find your own trekking guide locally who will also coordinate muleteers and piping hot cuisine along the way.
Tafraoute
Tafraoute & AmeIn Valley
The Anti-Atlas Mountain town of Tafraoute, gateway to the stunning AmeIn Valley, is worth a visit for a night or two allowing for at least a day hike, or just a break for travellers heading to/from the Sahara Desert. Famous for its almonds, colourful babouche slippers particular to the region, and even as a starting point for cycling up to the blue rocks and spotting prehistoric rock carvings. The town hosts an almond blossom festival, typically in February although the dates vary, which includes folklore displays to celebrate the harvest. The town is accessible by national bus companies.
Todra Gorge
Todgha Gorge
Todgha (or Todra as it is sometimes spelt) Gorge has become something of a tourist hotspot with locals selling carpets, fossils, and other finds as visitors wander amongst the limestone canons and cafes lining the riverbed. A number of three-star guest houses provide the perfect base for leisurely wanders through the palm groves or a longer trek through the mountains where nomadic families are known to reside. National bus companies provide service to this region daily.
The best Toubkal & Atlas Mountains treks
Some popular – and lesser known – hikes
In my opinion there's no beating the Aït Bougmez Valley, in particular the M'goun Circuit. Aït Bougmez draws a fraction of the visitors that come to the Toubkal region, but has some of the best hiking in the country. That said, all the following are well worth your consideration.
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Toubkal National Park
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Atlas Mountains
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Atlas Mountains
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Atlas Mountains
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Atlas Mountains
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Tanaghmeilt
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Tafraoute
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Todra Gorge
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Dadès Valley
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Atlas Mountains
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Toubkal National Park
Mount (Jebel) Toubkal Circuit trek
- Best hike for: Toubkal the quiet way
- Difficulty: Strenuous
- Trek duration: Six days
- Max. elevation: 4,167m
- Accommodation: Trekking refuges & homestay
- Start / end point: Imlil
The basic Jebel (Mount) Toubkal trek is typically marketed as a two day itinerary from Imil (or three days if departing from & returning to Marrakech). You’ll do two days of heavy hiking to reach Toubkal Base Camp. On the second morning you’ll make a pre-dawn push to catch sunrise from the summit, then turn around and descend 2,500 metres all the way back down. It’s rushed, gruelling and busy. A far more relaxed trek is the Toubkal Circuit, which is typically done in six days with the final ascent saved for last. If you’ve got the time I’d strongly recommend doing it the slow way.
Atlas Mountains
M'goun Circuit trek
- Trek duration: Five days
- Max. elevation: 4,071m
- Accommodation: Trekking refuges & homestay
- Start / end point: Agouti
- Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous
Few visitors journey to Aït Bougmez, a valley running along the M’goun Massif in Morocco's Central High Atlas mountains. Those who do are rewarded with lush pastures, picturesque views across the valley and hospitable locals who don’t let language barriers get in the way—and some of the best hiking in Morocco.
The M'goun Circuit trek follows the general routes of the nomadic Ait Atta tribes who circle around Mt M'goun to reach green pastures and a glacial lake where they reside for the summer months.
Atlas Mountains
M’Goun Traverse
- Distance: Approx. 50 km
- Duration: Five days
- Start: Aït Bougmez Valley
- End: Boutghrar
- Difficulty: Strenuous
Also centred around the serene Aït Bougmez Valley, the M'Goun Traverse is a more challenging version of the M'Goun Circuit. At around 50 km, it’s one of the more challenging treks in the High Atlas.
The pinnacle of the trek is the ascent to the M'Goun summit, the fourth-highest peak in Morocco. From its height of 4,071 metres, you’re treated to a panoramic view of the High Atlas range, a reward for the challenging climb. Descending from the summit, the trek continues through the fascinating Arous Valley, reaching its final point in the village of Boutghrar. Accommodation options are varied, including camping under the stars, mountain huts, and guesthouses.
Atlas Mountains
Aït Bougmez Valley
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Trek duration: Six to eight days
- Max. elevation: 2,600m
- Accommodation: Trekking refuges & homestay
- Start / end point: Agouti / Ouzoud
In addition to the M'goun Circuit there are a variety of other treks and day hikes in the Aït Bougmez Valley. Marketed as the “Happy Valley” thanks to its tranquil beauty and serene vibes, it’s dotted by Berber villages and towns that make the cultural immersion as fascinating as the landscapes.
The gentle slopes and walnut forests of the valley floor make for easy day hikes, whereas the surrounding peaks and ridges can offer more challenging treks. There’s a six day route from Agouti to the traditional village of Tabant, and an eight day route in the opposite direction from the Ouzoud waterfalls to Timit. Different operators offer their own specific routes, typically staying in simple gites or homestays.
Atlas Mountains
Jebel Saghro Loop
- Distance: Approx. 90 km
- Duration: Four to five days
- Start: Boumalne Dades
- End: Kalaat M’Gouna
- Difficulty: Moderate
The Jebel Saghro is a mountain range located in the Anti-Atlas region of Morocco, between the High Atlas and the Sahara Desert. Vast barren plains, rocky peaks and deep gorges create a dramatic landscape that is great for exploring by foot.
The Jebel Saghro Loop is an off-the-beaten-path five-day trek that starts near Boumalne Dades and ends at Kalaat M’Gouna, passing through remote hamlets and palm groves, crisscrossing mule tracks and dry river beds. Guides are optional and it makes an ideal winter trek when other Moroccan ranges are covered in snow.
The trek’s challenges are mainly the variable terrain and the lack of water sources along the route but with a lower altitude it’s generally less strenuous than some of the treks in the High Atlas region.
Some highlights of the Jebel Saghro Circuit include the Bab n'Ali rock formations, the Afourer gorges, and the views from the top of Kouaouch. The trek also offers a chance to experience local Amazigh (Berber) culture, as the Jebel Saghro region is home to the Aït Atta tribe, one of the last nomadic tribes in Morocco.
Tanaghmeilt
Ouzoud waterfalls day hike
- Best hike for: Easy-going day trip
- Difficulty: Easy
- Trek duration: Half a day
- Start / end point: Marrakech or Tanaghmeilt
An easy (and very popular) day hike in the Aït Bougmez area is to the Ouzoud waterfalls, or Cascade Ouzoud as they're known locally.
This hike makes for a pleasant day trip from Marrakech any time of the year. Located 2 ½ hours drive from Marrakech, these stunning 110m waterfalls tumble down red rock cliffs. Start this easy hike at the top where the flowing river cascades into the basin 600m below. Follow the pathway down to the base of the waterfall, encountering cheeky Barbary macaques that will happily accept a peanut or two along the way.
The trek takes about an hour, but sitting at the base and admiring the waterfalls from below and enjoying the cooling mist is satisfying.
Travel agents organise both private and group excursions daily. The area is not accessible by public transport, but the local guest houses in Tanaghmeilt can arrange private transport for travellers wishing to extend their visit beyond one day.
Tafraoute
AmeIn Valley day hikes
- Difficulty: Easy to moderate
- Trek duration: Day hikes or multi-day treks
- Start / end point: Tafraoute
The Berber heartland of Tafraoute, surrounded by the majestic rocky Anti-Atlas Mountains, provides a starting point for multi-day treks or day hikes through the beautiful AmeIn Valley.
You don’t have to wander far from Tafraoute’s town centre to spot millennia-old rock carvings of animals that remain throughout the region. Longer day hikes through the argan trees, which only grow in southwestern Morocco, and almond trees dot the landscape as trekkers wander between the more than 20 villages that make up the valley.
More experienced trekkers may opt for a multi-day trek that includes summiting Jebel Kest, the region’s highest peak, before returning to Tafraoute. Don’t miss the light over the rockscape as the sun sets and the range radiates magical hues of red.
The craggy rock and huge boulders around Tafraoute make the region very popular with rock climbers, who descend on the region between September and April. Combine some climbing with hiking in Morocco.
Todra Gorge
Todgha Gorge day hikes
Located in the eastern part of the Atlas Mountains and carved between the Todra and Dadès rivers, Todgha Gorge is a 300m deep fault that offers several excellent hiking routes.
Guides in Todgha Gorge are familiar with a day hike that leads to a nomadic family’s settlement, far from the village of Tinghir, which is often overrun with tour buses.
Leave the mudbrick village and lush farmland behind, wander through the limestone gorge and river that runs alongside, and begin the ascent to the rocky mountains that wind their way up along unexpected trails.
Views from the top provide stunning vistas of the surrounding landscape. With only minimal scrub bush, start the hike early to avoid the heat of the midday sun. A guide is a must as are sturdy hiking boots and plenty of water.
Dadès Valley
Dadès Valley day hikes
The backdrop to the picturesque Dadès Valley leading to the Dadès Gorge is one of mesmerising rock formations, known locally as the ‘monkey fingers’.
Often a short stopover en route to the Sahara Desert, it’s worth scheduling at least a half-day trek climbing through the rocks, lush valleys and little bridges with the river running beneath.
A local guide is a must as the paths are unmarked. Bus agencies drop passengers in the nearby town of Boulemane and comfortable hostels are available throughout the valley and closer to the gorge.
Atlas Mountains
Tichka Plateau Traverse
- Distance: Approx. 40 km
- Duration: Two days
- Start: Tizi-n-Tichka
- End: Telouet
- Difficulty: Moderate
The Tichka Plateau Traverse is a two-day trek covering around 40 km and set in the dramatic Atlas Mountains of Morocco. A moderate hike, it offers breathtaking panoramas and a unique insight into Berber life.
The route begins at Tizi-n-Tichka, the highest major mountain pass in North Africa, ending in Telouet, a small village with a historic Kasbah. The trail unveils an otherworldly landscape of stark, sun-baked mountains dotted with green valleys, winding rivers, and small Berber villages.
The traverse explores the wide-open expanse of the Tichka Plateau, noted for its sparse vegetation and lunar-like vistas. If you like solitude, this hike is perfect, as the high plateau is one of the most remote areas in the Atlas Mountains. The trek finishes with a visit to the Kasbah of Telouet, a palace once owned by a powerful feudal lord. Accommodation ranges from camping under the stars to local gîtes.
View from a hiking trail in Imlil, High Atlas
Trekking in the Atlas Mountains: Need to know
Everything you wish you'd known before you booked
Look beyond Toubkal
As is often the case with the tourism industry, most operators chase the demand for Mount Toubkal, at the unfortunate expense of other equally impressive locations and experiences.
Few visitors journey to Ait Bougmez, a valley running along the Mgoun Massif in Morocco's Central High Atlas mountains. Those who do are rewarded with lush pastures, picturesque views across the valley and hospitable locals who don’t let language barriers get in the way—and some of the best hiking in Morocco.
In the spring, nomadic Ait Atta tribes from the south hike across Mount Mgoun (the second highest mountain in the Atlas region) to reach green pastures and a glacial lake where they reside for the summer months. Mount Mgoun is exactly 100 m lower than Mount Toubkal but receives 25% fewer visitors.
Experienced hikers can join the trek as donkeys and mules carry supplies and accompany the nomads along with their herds, spending between three to four days hiking in Ait Bougmez.
The region’s remoteness (it’s a six-hour drive from Marrakech or 3 ½ hours from Beni Mellal) means that most visitors choose to base themselves in Ait Bougmez’s main town of Tabant during their stay, which offers a number of gites and hotels.
Day hikes in Ait Bougmez can be organised from the nearby Touda EcoLodge. Head out for a pleasant wander along the dirt treks winding through villages, green farmland and crumbling kasbahs.
For a more moderate full-day option, you can trek through juniper forests and rugged terrain to reach the glacial Lake Izourar. The return across the rocky trail returns to the small village where the Touda EcoLodge is located. Trekking boots are strongly advised.
The roads leading to the valley can be difficult to traverse during winter months. So, come during the warmer months between April and November.
Trekking solo vs guided
Guides became mandatory in the Toubkal region from 2018 after a grisly incident involving the death of two Western tourists, but post-COVID this requirement appears to have been informally loosened.
Consider however that beyond the Toubkal trek very little of any foreign language is spoken in rural Morocco – often including at local guesthouses and refuges – so having a guide for cultural and linguistic interpretation will add to the experience beyond just basic navigational and safety considerations.
Given the unmarked paths, unfamiliar terrain and language barriers, I generally recommend hiring a guide or booking your trek through a tour operator. Good quality guides often hail from the local region and can navigate the diverse terrains, language barriers and unexpected weather changes. They also often have the contacts to provide access to encounters with locals one may not otherwise experience, such as visiting villages, finding amazing artisans or hiking alternative routes.
Whether venturing off on a full- or multi-day trek, don’t be surprised if your host prepares a piping hot pot of mint tea in the middle of a lush green valley, shares fruits from the region depending on the season, or presents fresh bread and hot tajine to enjoy. A donkey often accompanies trekkers carrying supplies for the journey along with trekkers’ luggage.
Local life
Weekly markets are held in busier towns across rural Morocco and provide an opportunity for locals from the surrounding villages to stock up on goods for the week – fresh produce and meats, dry goods and spices, and supplies for daily life. In the middle of the action, there is sure to be a tent supplying sfenj doughnuts and smoky grills preparing mouth-watering meats and vegetables to stuff into a fresh loaf of bread when hunger strikes.
View from the hiking trail to the top of Mount Toubkal
Atlas trekking FAQs
Your questions, our expert answers
Question
When is the best time to trek in the Atlas Mountains?
Answer
Overall, I recommend trekking in either spring (April to June) and autumn (September to November). In spring, the weather is generally mild, and the mountains are beautifully adorned with blooming wildflowers. The snow from winter has usually melted at lower altitudes, making the trails more accessible. In autumn, the weather is similarly mild and stable, making for comfortable trekking conditions. The autumn colours can also make the landscapes particularly scenic.
The summer months (July and August) can be very hot, especially in the lower valleys, but it's still a good time for high-altitude treks like Mount Toubkal, where temperatures are cooler.
Winter (December to February) brings snow and cold weather, which can make high-altitude treks more challenging due to the need for winter gear and experience in snowy conditions. However, for experienced winter trekkers, this can provide a different kind of adventure.
About the authors
Mandy Sinclair
Mandy Sinclair is a travel journalist and guidebook author based in Marrakech, Morocco. She runs the blog MandyInMorocco.com and hosts the bi-weekly podcast Why Morocco. She contributes to the Lonely Planet, The Independent, Toronto Star, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, Telegraph Travel, among many other publications.
Stephen Lioy
Stephen is a travel photographer and writer who specialises in trekking and hiking in Kyrgyzstan, Morocco and destinations beyond in Central Asia, the Middle East and North Africa. He writes for Lonely Planet, BBC Travel, Slate, amongst many others.
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