In-depth Morocco

Casablanca's history and grand mosque

Day 1 in Casablanca

Morocco’s largest city and the country’s economic hub sits beside the Atlantic Ocean and has a distinctively different vibe from other cities across the Kingdom. Often reputed as having “nothing to see,” the city is full of surprises for those who dare to venture beyond what they are told.

The city started as what’s known as the ancienne medina, previously known as Anfa, before the city developed during the French Protectorate. The art deco lined boulevards and architecturally diverse city centre were built during this era, making it an architecture-lovers dream, along with the port. The Habous area is known as the new medina, and was also developed during the Protectorate.

It’s not hard to miss the Hassan II Mosque, the largest in Africa and the third largest in the world, with a 210m tall minaret that punctures the city skyline. It’s also the only mosque open to non-Muslims in Morocco, but by guided tour only.

Experience urban life in Rabat

Day 2 in Rabat

Although it’s the capital city of Morocco, Rabat is often just a half-day stopover on most itineraries. With wide avenues for walking from the old city through the art deco downtown, passing by the Parliament building, exploring the city on foot is enjoyable.

The capital perfectly blends modern architecture and sites (the Mohamed VI Contemporary Art Museum for one is well worth a visit with world-class exhibitions) with historical sites dating back centuries. Kasbah of the Udayas, the Berber-era royal fort sits overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, and the Chellah ruins on the banks of the Bou Regreg River have links to the Roman Empire.

The city is an unexpected treasure for those who dare to add a few extra hours or even a day to their itinerary. Nearby Salé, just across the Bou Regreg River receives few visitors and home to a lovely Koranic school where travellers often have the place to themselves to appreciate the architectural beauty.

The blue city of Chefchaouen

Day 3 in Chefchaouen

In this city in the Rif Mountains everything is a shade of blue, from the front doors of local homes to the staircases winding through the village.

Wander up and down Chefchaouen’s narrow alleys to explore leather and weaving workshops before visiting the red-walled Kasbah, a 15th-century fortress and dungeon, in Place Outa el Hammam. Once under Spanish occupation, the influence here remains – as does the Spanish Mosque. Just be aware that Chefchaouen’s recent popularity on social media means that tourism has boomed in this small hillside town.

That said, nature awaits at the village’s doorstep, with the 6km Jebel el Kalaa trail starting from the village and further afield the Talassemtane National Park where visitors can hike to Ackour waterfalls – some of the most beautiful in Morocco. Slow travellers could easily spend a few days here and not feel ready to leave.

Imperial city of Meknes and roman ruins at Volubilis

Day 4 in Volubilis

Once one of the most remote outposts of the Roman Empire, partially-excavated Volubilis is an archaeologist’s dream. It’s a beautiful place to walk around and ponder what life must have been like in this bustling hillside city in the third century BC, when the settlement was developed on rich fertile grounds.

Today, the surrounding, rolling hills remain dotted with olive trees and wineries producing a huge range of red, white, rosé and gris that are largely drunk in Morocco itself. From the historical site, the Zerhoune mountain range is visible, with the nearby holy village of Moulay Idriss Zerhoune tucked within.

Explore the medieval city of Fes

Day 5 in Fes

Founded in the 9th century, the history of Fes is storied, with various dynasties passing through and making this their capital.

Home to the oldest university in the world, the city was once the centre of knowledge in the region. Thousands of families fleeing the Spanish Inquisition made Fes their home. The culinary and arts and crafts here are renowned across the Kingdom.

Behind closed doors, some of the finest palaces lie where the elite once resided and which open to the public or act as venues during the Fes Festival of Sacred Music.

Today the medina of Fes is the best-preserved medieval city in the Muslim world, with more than 9,000 alleyways and hundreds of workshops housing artisans producing handicrafts using traditional methods. Wandering here is an assault on the senses, but one that visitors tend to enjoy.

Merzouga and Sahara dunes by four-wheel-drive or camel

Day 6–7 in Merzouga

Once you’ve arrived at Merzouga — the gateway to the Sahara — you will find yourself surrounded by dry heat and vast golden sand dunes. The main attraction here is the Sahara Desert, with mountainous dunes in hues of red and orange that hover above this small town. A night in the desert is a must for most travellers. Try arriving at your campsite for the evening on camelback for a truly Moroccan experience.

Despite being in the middle of nowhere, it’s common for camps to provide piping hot tagines, drumming and traditional music around the campfire under a starry desert sky. Hotels at the edge of the dunes with pools are available for those who want a bit more comfort.

Walk in Todra Gorge

Day 8 in Todra Gorge

No trip to Morocco is complete without a walk in the wadis.

The steep-cliff valleys of Todra Gorge are a series of limestone canyons that make for a unique walking experience and are often considered one of the must-sees when visiting Morocco’s south.

Hike along paths that have been carved out by rivers and enjoy spectacular views of pink rock as you pass through. The height of the canyon walls reaches 400m in some places.

Royal dynasties and souks in Marrakesh

Day 9–11 in Marrakesh

Marrakesh can be bewitching. Palaces, koranic schools, historical sites and mosques dating back centuries are tucked away next to contemporary designer showrooms and picture-perfect restaurants. Souks filled with brightly coloured textiles, richly-patterned pottery and tribal jewellery are among the treasures on offer in Marrakesh’s medina.

Perfectly manicured gardens, private collections featuring artworks and Moroccan artefacts, and roaming the interiors of centuries-old palaces are all great ways to fill a few days experiencing Marrakesh.

In fact, with new venues, restaurants and boutiques opening frequently, it’s easy to spend a week here and still not see everything or dine in every recommended restaurant. But given the sensory overload that awaits in the old city, time whiled away in a café, slowly watching the world go by is highly recommended. Once you’ve had your fill of the medina, go beyond the old city and explore Gueliz, the neighbourhood developed under French rule. It’s here that the contemporary art galleries and designer showrooms are located and where restaurants serving up cuisine from around the world – including Protectorate-era establishments recalling French brasseries – showcase a completely different side to Marrakesh live to the old city.

Cobbled fishing town of Essaouira

Day 12–14 in Essaouira

Laid-back with a dash of charm, this seaside town on the Atlantic Coast never fails to impress visitors. With little to do but slow down, wander and watch the world go by while sipping a mint tea or coffee nouss nouss (half coffee, half milk), Essaouira is a great place to unwind.

If shopping is your thing, then Essaouira is a pleasant place to experience it. Once known as the Port of Timbuktu, this fortified old city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, retains a trading vibe with laid-back markets filled with locally made textiles, honey, and wooden goods made from thuya or olive wood.

Try wandering along the bustling port as seagulls hover overhead ready to swoop in for your snacks. Known for its fresh seafood, fishmongers at the local markets sell their catch of the day with the nearby grills able to cook it to perfection for tourists and locals alike.