Ecuador Travel Guide - Horizon Guides

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Sitting on the shoulder of the South American continent, Ecuador – the mainland at least – somehow manages to avoid the limelight of the region's bigger hitters. There's the Galapagos Islands of course, but otherwise plucky Ecuador gets barely a look-in compared to its surrounding neighbours.

This is, of course, entirely unfair. As one of South America's three Andean nations (the others being Peru and Bolivia), Ecuador has a colourful and varied history with a cultural hinterland that draws more from indigenous civilisation than Latin influence.

While the cities are either modern (Quito) or colonial (Cuenca), once you get into the mountains you'll encounter a way of life that reaches way back to pre-Colombian times. Keep going and you'll reach the Amazon – here barely touched by tourism relative to the commodified rainforests of Peru and Brazil.

All too many people treat Ecuador as a launchpad for the Galapagos. This is a heinous crime against decency and taste. Slow down, spend a while longer, and get to know this fascinating country for its own sake. Welcome to Ecuador!

Hidden gems in Ecuador

Isla Darwin

Scuba on Darwin Island

Jon Jared

Place

Tiny Darwin Island, at the remote far north of the archipelago, is one of the world’s premier scuba locations and has the densest biomass of sharks anywhere on earth. Rarely visited by standard cruises, these quiet waters teem with whale, Galápagos and silky sharks, hammerheads and more.

Isla Fernandina

Iguanas and penguins on Fernandina

Jon Jared

Place

The third largest – and youngest – of the Galápagos Islands, volcanically active Fernandina has a unique environment which makes it a haven for thousands of slowly-moving marine iguanas, Galápagos penguins, flightless cormorants and sea lions. This is also the island where you’re most likely to see a volcanic eruption! There is a good 15km hike to Volcan Sierra Negra which departs from Puerto Villamil.

Isla Rabida

Flamingoes and snorkelling on Isla Rabida

Place

Noted for the unique red colour of its beach and cliffs (from the iron content), Isla Rabida is known for the sizeable population of flamingos that feed on shrimp in its lagoon, snorkelling with sea lions and the large number of bird species that live here.

Isla Genovesa

Isla Genovesa for birdwatching

Jon Jared

Place

Genovesa, a remote island in the archipelago’s far north, is visited by longer cruise itineraries and is a favourite for birdwatchers. Also known as Booby Island due to the sheer number of goofy-looking Nazca and red-footed boobies that live here, the island is also home to great frigatebirds, short-eared owls, petrels, Galápagos doves, finches, lava gulls, and many more. Also here you can visit the tidal pools of Darwin Bay where sea birds hover and marine life flourishes, and climb Prince Philip’s Steps, named for the British royal who visited the island. You’ll see red-footed boobies, Nazca boobies and great frigate birds along the way.

The Galapagos Islands

North Seymour for iguanas

Jon Jared

Place

North Seymour is home to one of the island’s first conservation projects. In the 1930s, the crew of Captain Alan Hancock’s ship transferred 72 land iguanas from the nearby Baltra Island to North Seymour in the hopes that the reptiles would fare better without the feral goats competing for food. At last count in 2014, there were 2500 land iguanas on the island. North Seymour and neighbouring Mosquera Islet are home to a large population of sea lions. Snorkelling here puts you up close and personal with these curious creatures and their young pups. Also here is a flamingo lagoon on the isolated Bachas Beach, and the largest nesting colony of great frigate birds.

Isla Bartolomé

Pinnacle Rock on Isla Bartolomé

Jon Jared

Place

One of the sites used in the movie “Master and Commander,” Bartolomé’s Pinnacle Rock is the closest thing to a Galápagos landmark. The volcanic outcrop formed after lava erupted from an underwater volcano and the iconic formation was used for target practice by US airmen during WWII, adding to its unique shape. The colourful scenery of the beaches on either side of Pinnacle Rock is contrasted by the barren landscape of Bartolomé’s interior. It’s often compared to the moon or Mars due to the red lava rocks away from the shore. While here you can climb to the top of the island’s summit, ascending a wooden staircase through the stripped-down landscape. In the shallow waters between the landing point and Pinnacle Rock you can see Galápagos penguins, sea turtles, parrotfish, and small sharks.

Isla Española

Sea lions, lizards & boobies on Isla Española

Jon Jared

Place

On Española, you’ll be greeted by colonies of sea lions and Española lava lizards lounging freely. It’s also known for its nesting sites of Blue-footed and Nazca boobies. You can hike the Punta Suarez trail to the edge of a cliff overlooking a natural lava blowhole, visit the waved Albatross breeding colony (the world’s population of the species migrates here during April and December). The white sand beach at Gardner Bay is one of the longest in the islands and sea turtles bury their eggs on the beach during mating season between January and March.

Isla Floreana

Isla Floreana for turtles

Jon Jared

Place

After being marooned on Floreana in 1805, Irishman Patrick Watkins became the first known Galápagos resident. Post Office Bay is also here, an informal mail system started in the 1700s by whalers. Mail was left for ships returning home in a barrel by those headed out to sea. The tradition lives on today: you can leave postcards at Post Office Bay for others to pick up and deliver once home. Also on Floreana is Cormorant Point with two contrasting beaches; a green sand beach caused by olivine crystals and Flour Beach, made from crushed white coral. You can see pink flamingos at the nearby Flamingo Lagoon, watch for Green sea turtles nesting on the sands of Flour Beach. Another highlight is a panga ride to Gardner Inlet for a view of the large caves and rock formations of the island. Just off the Floreana coast is the Devil’s Crown – a partially submerged, extinct volcano where wildlife thrives. Sea turtles, sea lions and even sharks are commonly seen in and around the crater, while seabirds crowd the outlying cliffs.

Isla Isabela

Isla Isabela for lava tunnels

Jon Jared

Place

Originally named Albemarle Island by pirate Ambrose Cowley, Isabela is one of the youngest and largest of the Galápagos archipelago. It was formed by six volcanoes: Sierra Negra, Wolf, Alcedo, Cerro Azul, Darwin and Ecuador. All are active except Ecuador; Sierra Negra erupted most recently in 2018. Isabela's famous Los Túneles ('tunnels') are a series of pools sheltered from the sea’s currents with interlacing volcanic bridges spanning the depths. The crystal waters are home to decades-old sea turtles, large sea horses, white-tipped reef sharks and thriving schools of tropical fish. Also on Isabela you can take a horseback ride to the top of the Sierra Negra Volcano, spot Humpback Whales off the western coast of the island (June to September), see the Galápagos penguins near Tagus Cove – a favourite of pirates and whalers; names of ships dating back to 1836 are carved into the nearby cliff sides.

Isla San Cristóbal

Sharks & surf on San Cristobal

Jon Jared

Place

San Cristobal is the provincial capital of the Galápagos. One of the oldest islands, it was Darwin’s first stop on his historic journey. It’s the home to government and educational institutions. Puerto Baquerizo Moreno acts as the second tourist centre for the islands. Offices of tour agencies, foundations and branches of banks are open during the week. Kicker Rock, off the west coast of San Cristobal, is one of the best-known sites in the islands to see hammerhead sharks. Hundreds gather in the depths here, while the lion-shaped shadow of Kicker Rock towers above you. Kicker Rock is two hours from San Cristobal and you must be accompanied by a guide. Also on Cristobal, Cerro Tijeretas is reached by a short hike past the island’s Interpretation Centre. The view offers an amazing view over the bay below and there are trails down to the water and around the area. Cristobal is also known for its surf, drawing surfers to Punta Carola beach, Tongo Reef, among a few others. There are a few surf clubs and rental shops on the island.

Isla Santa Cruz

Get your bearings on Isla Santa Cruz

Jon Jared

Place

Puerta Ayora, the main town on Santa Cruz island, is the tourist centre of the islands – tour agencies, airline offices, restaurants, banks and shops line the streets. It’s a stop on most tour itineraries and the place to finalise travel plans, find gifts for friends and family, and sample local cuisine. While here you can hike to Tortuga Bay – considered one of the best beaches in the world and perfect for snorkelling and sea kayaking, hike to lava tubes in the highlands, watch local fishermen compete with sea lions as they land their daily catch, and – a highlight – visit the Charles Darwin Research Station, the original rallying point for scientific and conservation efforts in the islands. For diving, off the coast of Santa Cruz Island, Gordon Rocks is a submerged volcano where the depths reveal hammerhead sharks, rays, and sea turtles. Currents can be strong and swells in the shallows mean that divers need to stay below 40 ft.

The Galapagos Islands

Best beaches to relax

Jon Jared

Experience

Your days exploring the Galapagos will be action-packed. If you want to build in some beach time, try any of the following: Tortuga Bay, Santa Cruz One of the best beaches in the world, the western end of this long expanse of pristine white sand is tranquil and perfect for swimming, kayaking and snorkelling. (The eastern end has strong currents.) Puerto Villamil beach, Isabela The beach in front of the sleepy town of Puerto Villamil on Isabela island overlooks the island’s bay. You can see penguins on outcrops and the water is inviting to those who want a dip after a big day of exploring. Small beachside bars and shaded hammocks make it a great spot to relax and unwind far away from the crowds. Red beach, Rabida The red sand of the beach on Rabida Island comes from the high iron content in the volcanic rock of the island. Sea lions greet those visiting from cruises on this strange landscape, framed by green cactus and palo santo trees. Bachas beach, Santa Cruz Bachas beach on Santa Cruz Island is often a stop on day trips to neighbouring uninhabited islands. Its protected bay is a great place to swim, and the nearby lagoons are home to flamingos feeding in the shallow water. The beach is named after two barges that were abandoned by the army after WWII. Post Office Bay, Floreana The beach at Post Office Bay is one of the few places that is just as interesting for its human history. Whalers who first visited the island set up a barrel for mail. Those returning from their time at sea would take mail home for those heading out on their long voyage. Today, visitors from cruise ships leave a postcard and take another home to deliver. Stay safe The wildlife of the Galapagos Islands beaches, though used to human presence, present the most danger in the islands. Male sea lions aggressively protect their harems and young, and sea life such as white-tipped reef sharks can be hard to spot in shallow reefs and can react when disturbed.

Scuba on Darwin Island

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Iguanas and penguins on Fernandina

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Flamingoes and snorkelling on Isla Rabida

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Isla Genovesa for birdwatching

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North Seymour for iguanas

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Pinnacle Rock on Isla Bartolomé

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Sea lions, lizards & boobies on Isla Española

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Isla Floreana for turtles

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Isla Isabela for lava tunnels

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Sharks & surf on San Cristobal

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Get your bearings on Isla Santa Cruz

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Best beaches to relax

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Surfing

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Sea kayaking

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See tortoises in the wild

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Day trip to Isla Bartolomé

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Three species of Galápagos boobies

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See the waved albatross

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Shark diving

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Snorkelling

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Slow travel on Isla Floreana

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Volcano hikes

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Start at the Charles Darwin Research Station

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View all 28 Ecuador experiences

Ecuador travel guides

Guide

How To Combine Machu Picchu & The Galapagos

Jon Jared

South America’s two crown jewels have never been more accessible. Machu Picchu and Galapagos combined trips are less hassle and more affordable than you might think.

Article

Close encounters in the Galapagos

James Stewart

Before their first trip ashore, everyone who comes to the Galapagos is briefed on national-park rules.

Article

Responsible tourism on the Galapagos Islands

Jim Lutz

The Galapagos is a remarkable and spectacularly beautiful place. However, tourism is having a big impact on certain parts of the islands.

Article

The Journal Podcast #1: The Galapagos Islands with Jim Lutz

Karam Filfilan

The Galapagos Islands is a place that makes you think differently about our planet. It's home to some of the most diverse and endangered wildlife in the world.

Guide

The best time to visit the Galapagos Islands

Jon Jared

The cool/dry season runs roughly from June to November. The Humboldt Current brings garúa, a fine sea mist, and cooler weather that ranges from 19 to 27 °C (67-81 °F).

Guide

The Best Galapagos Islands For Wildlife Spotting

Jon Jared

The Galapagos Islands have a unique ecosystem, meaning wildlife has thrived here for centuries. Don’t expect the animals to be shy—their indifference to your presence is what makes this such a great place to visit.

Guide

Galapagos cruise budgets

Wendy Yanagihara

Cheap Galapagos cruises are advertised by many agencies on the mainland. This is a buyer beware situation.

Guide

The best Galapagos Cruises

Wendy Yanagihara

Step aside, humans. The protagonists of the Galápagos Islands’ history are the rare and endemic species that populate this far-flung chain of volcanic islands in the Pacific.