Nepal
The country at the top of the world
With the spectacular Himalayas running down its eastern side, it’s no surprise Nepal is known as the roof of the world. Getting out into these vast panoramas with their immense snowy peaks, flower-strewn meadows and sparkling lakes — while also making time to relax at chilled out Pokhara — is reason enough to visit. But there's far more to Nepal than just mountains and trekking.
Down on the hot lush plains of the Terai, you'll find a brace of magical national parks where rare beasts like one-horned rhino and tiger roam and the trees twitch with birdlife. Your chances of seeing rhino are surprisingly high if you visit in the spring. Then there are the cultural jewels, a scattering of ancient cities stuffed with serene temples, cobbled alleys and hidden squares. In parts of Bhaktapur, Patan and the vibrant capital Kathmandu, it feels like life hasn't changed in generations.
16 days
Everest Base Camp
The classic route to Everest Base Camp
14 days
Annapurna & Poon Hill sunrise
A customisable trek to the Annapurna Sanctuary and Poon Hill
14 days
Forbidden Mustang
A Trek Through Nepal’s Restricted Tibetan Side
15 days
Manaslu Circuit
A wilder, quieter and more remote trek to see Himalayan giants
15 days
Helambu & Langtang
Crowd-free trekking on Kathmandu’s doorstep
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Kagbeni
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Dolpo region
A vast and little known swathe of western Nepal... -
Lo Manthang
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Upper Mustang
Shrouded in mystery and completely closed to outsiders until 1992, walking here is as much a cultural experience as a mountain one... -
Langtang Valley
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Annapurna region
Home to the Annapurna Circuit, the classic walk of Nepal and one that for many years was hyped as quite simply the single best trek on the planet... -
Everest Base Camp
A trek to Everest base camp is as much a pilgrimage as a straightforward trek, but there’s much more to the region than ‘just’ Mt Everest... -
Kathmandu
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Pokhara
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Jomsom
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Machha Khola
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Phakding
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Gokyo Lakes
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Tengboche Monastery
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Kala Patthar
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Cho La Pass
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Namche Bazaar
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Makalu
Isolated villages, forests hung in mosses and orchids, high yak pastures and, finally, the rock and ice wastes around Makalu base camp for some of the most inspiring mountain vistas in Nepal... -
Chitwan National Park
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Dharapani
... -
Larkya La Pass
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Manaslu region
The worlds eighth-highest mountain, surrounded by steamy lowland valleys and fields of rice slowly giving way to ice coated passes haunted by snow leopards and who knows what else... -
Poon Hill
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Machhapuchhare Base Camp
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Thasang
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Tatopani
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Galeshwor
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Chisapani
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Gul Bhanjyang
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Magingoth
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Tharepati
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Surche Phedi
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Lauribina
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Thulo Syabru
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Lama Hotel
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Kanchenjunga
Kanchenjunga is the third highest mountain on Earth and the hike to the base camp of this daunting peak is one of the most exciting treks in... -
Langtang region
Visible from central Kathmandu, Langtang has some of the most accessible trekking in Nepal – if it weren’t for the traffic you could almost walk from your guesthouse straight to the mountains... -
Kyanjin Gompa
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Lobuche
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Far West region
A landscape of deep, dank forests, sparkling sheets of water, lonely mountains crushed in ice and snow, narrow canyons and ancient villages... -
Dingboche
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Syabru Besi
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Pheriche
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Monjo
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Ghorepani
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Lukla
... -
Chhomrong
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Sinuwa Hill
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Deurali
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Dovan
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Annapurna Sanctuary
... -
Soti Khola
... -
Philim
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Machhapucchare Base Camp
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Samdo
... -
Namrung
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Lho
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Deng
... -
Phortse
... -
Ghilin
... -
Samar
... -
Larkya Glacier
... -
Chhusang
... -
Tange
... -
Yara
...
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TitleTrekking In Nepal |
Pages153 |
PriceFree |
About this guide
So it’s not surprising that Nepal has become one of the world’s preeminent trekking centres, welcoming just shy of one million visitors per year – the vast majority of whom come to enjoy hiking or trekking in one form or another.
And although the routes around Everest and Annapurna steal most of the limelight, the entire country is a trekker’s paradise. Indeed, for many visitors, some of the lesser-known regions are far preferable. They tend to be quieter, more remote, and relatively unvisited by outsiders – all of which promises a more meaningful connection with local people, a deeper understanding of their communities, and a far greater appreciation of the majestic landscapes and scenery.
But despite the country's popularity, Nepal can feel like a daunting prospect to all but the most experienced of hikers. There’s the altitude, the distances, the ongoing earthquake recovery, and, above all, the sheer number of trekking routes to choose between.
That’s where this guide steps in. Here you’ll find an introduction to the major trekking regions, the top routes in each area, and how a typical trip works. We offer guidance on choosing the right route for you, along with essential information on smart preparation, when to go, and how to plan your trip.
This is not intended as a comprehensive trekking guide. Once you’ve decided where and when you want to go, you’ll certainly need a detailed guidebook and, most likely, the support of a reliable trekking operator.
But start here for an accessible introduction to the adventures that await. And once you’re there, give us a wave from the roof of the world. Happy trekking!
 Authors |
Stuart Butler, David Ways |
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 Editors |
Karam Filfilan |
 Format |
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 No. of Pages |
153 |
New edition!
Trekking In Nepal
Nepal's best treks and hikes
The mighty Himalaya have occupied a special place in the imaginations of adventurers and intrepid travellers for generations. And nowhere more so than the nation of Nepal: land of the Sherpa and home of Mount Everest (plus eight of the world’s other 10 tallest peaks!) A country that embodies the allure and romance of these unimaginably vast mountains.
Get the guideWhen to go trekking in Nepal
Best months for trekking and hiking in Nepal
Nepal weather & climate
The all-powerful Indian monsoon is the defining feature of life and tourism in Nepal.
October to April is the dry season and, overall, this is the best time to trek in most of Nepal. But within that, the ideal trekking time is really from October to early November when the skies are crystal clear and the visibility excellent. It’s warm in the valleys and cool to cold up high. However, this is also the busiest time on the main trails, and villages can be overwhelmed with trekkers.
Avoid the monsoon season from May to September, when trekking routes close and paths become dangerous. If visiting Nepal during monsoon, stick to the major cities, which are often much quieter than during peak periods.
Nepal trekking month-by-month
October to November is the most popular time to trek in Nepal, with the weather at its mildest and the temperatures manageable. However, routes can be busy during these months and trekking lodges full, so make sure you plan your stops in advance.
December to February is also an excellent time to trek, when trails are much quieter and visibility is still excellent. However, it can be bitterly cold up high, and some passes can be snowed in. Treks in the Annapurna circuit and to Everest base camp are still possible at this time.
March to early May can be another good time to trek. It’s much warmer up high, but uncomfortably hot lower down. Rhododendrons turn the slopes aflame with purples and reds. On the negative side, heat haze builds up and the air is less clear. The first pre-monsoon storm clouds build up and you’ll probably get soaked by intense thunderstorms.
May is a superb time to trek areas which lie in the Himalayan rain shadow. Trails in areas like Upper Mustang and Dolpo are quieter than in June to September, and the mountain views are better. By late May the thunderstorms become more frequent and it remains dangerously hot at lower levels.
In June the monsoon really starts to make its presence felt. In Nepal the torrential rain and massive thunderstorms last roughly from late-June to mid-September. For much of the country this is a very bad time to trek. Many trekking lodges will be closed, mountain views obscured, and trails become a quagmire of mud and leeches. However there are exceptions and places such as Upper Mustang which lie in the Himalayan rain shadow can still be trekked.
Events and holidays
Trekking in Nepal isn’t just about the mountain views and awe-inspiring passes. Along the way, trekkers will also pass through many Nepalese villages and interact with local communities. This is an opportunity to partake in Nepalese festivals and events.
Lasting 15 days between September and October, Dashain is the biggest cultural festival in Nepal. Celebrated by Hindus and Buddhists alike, this festival sees music, dancing, kite-flying and colourful processions of Hindu and Nepalese gods. A word of warning - animal sacrifice to appease the gods is a part of the festival.
October and November sees the Mani Rimdu festival, a 19-day event that culminates in a three-day public holiday. This is a great time to be trekking around Tengboche or to Everest base camp, as you’ll witness celebrations as local Sherpa and Tibetan communities join forces with Buddhist monks. You’ll witness folkloric dancing and singing, religious ceremonies and, if you’re lucky, the renowned mask dance at Tengboche monastery.
The pre-monsoon months of February and March sees Nepal welcome the Hindu Holi festival, a colourful celebration welcoming spring and the defeat of the Hindu demoness Holika. Join devotees in throwing coloured powder and water - but make sure to not wear your best clothes.
Nepalese food is a blend of different cultures and traditions, with Chinese, Indian and Tibetan influences. Although not traditionally seen as one of the world’s foremost cuisines, Nepalese food is slowly becoming more recognised.
Vegetarians will have no problem finding a decent meal in Nepal — its Hindu and Buddhist influences mean that vegetarians are well catered for. Trekkers will find little meat available in lodges, with the ubiquitous dhal the main source of protein.
What to eat and drink
Trekkers staying in teahouses on the major Annapurna, Langtang and Everest routes can rely entirely on hotels for their meals, which saves essential backpack space. Lodge menus are a mixed bag, with those on major routes offering a mix of local and international cuisine. Those in more remote regions will focus on four staples — potatoes, pasta, rice and noodles. Meat, if offered, is likely to be chicken or occasionally mutton, but never beef (forbidden to Hindus).
Be aware that most Nepalis have a simple breakfast of tea before eating a heavier brunch at around 10am. If you choose to wait for lunch until 12pm, you may find yourself with a long wait as the hotel-keeper cooks fresh rice for you.
The basics
By far the most common meal in Nepal is dhal bhat takari — rice with dhal soup and a side of potato or vegetable curry. Expect the occasional pickle, fresh chilli or poppadom on the side. In the border regions near Tibet, tsampa (a porridge like mix of roasted and ground barley mixed with salty butter tea) and thukpa (noodle soup) are the staples, with vegetable stews upping the nutritional value.
Dhal and pulses
While two meals of dhal bhat can get a bit monotonous over a long trek, the positive side is that each serving will be spiced differently and it is cheap and nutritious. In bigger cities, you may even get dhal served with meat or fish for added protein.
In higher regions, you may find dhindo, a paste made from buckwheat and butter that is eaten with vegetables and dhal.
Meat dishes
Meat becomes increasingly hard to find the higher up Nepal’s ranges you progress. Chicken is the most likely option, with goat, mutton or buffalo also popping up on menus. Look out for traditional Nepalese momos, dumplings filled with meat, vegetables or cheese and then fried or steamed. A delicious snack, momos are served plain or with a chilli or curry sauce.
If visiting in winter, try Gorkhali lamb, a slow-cooked lamb curry made with spices, potatoes and onion and served with roti.
Fruit and vegetables
Nepal has plenty of vegetarian dishes, often flavoured with chilli, turmeric, cumin and other spices. Look out for tangy aloo achar (pickled potatoes), vegetable thukpa (noodle soup) and mustard green bhutuwa (stir-fried mustard greens).
As for fruits — try the tangy, sour pulp of lapsi, which can be pickled or turned into fruit tarts, and the dried flesh of bel (wood apple), which makes a refreshing drink when juiced with lime.
Sweets and desserts
Nepali desserts are similar to Indian sweets and are often tooth-achingly sugary. Look out for bright orange jalebis, the cashew nut based barfi and the thick, rich gud pak (a porridge like mix of edible gum, nuts, sugar and flour). The most common dessert is khir, a rice pudding flavoured with cardamom and dried fruits.
What to drink
Tea is one of the best ways to stay hydrated while trekking around Nepal. From masala chiya (tea with condensed milk and spices) to soja (Tibetan butter tea) and all manner of herbal teas, this is a refreshing way to get to know your Nepalese neighbours.
Alcoholic drinks are widely available in Nepal, with local homebrews such as chang (barley beer) and rakshi (rice wine) vying with international brands of beer like Everest, Gorkha and Carlsberg.
One note of warning — avoid drinking tap or stream water. Bring iodine tablets to treat drinking water.
Will I need a visa to go trekking in Nepal?
Visas for most nationalities are available at major air and land borders on arrival. Prices for 15/30/90 days are US $25/40/100. You can pay in US dollars, euros, British pounds and some other major currencies. You can also apply online at https://online.nepalimmigration.gov.np/tourist-visa which, in theory at least, reduces time queuing on arrival in Kathmandu.
How much do treks in Nepal cost?
There are a few variables you’ll need to consider when budgeting for a trek in Nepal. Porters cost between US$ 10-25 per day. A guide will charge USD$ 30-40 per day. You’ll also need to factor in permit costs, depending on the region you choose to trek in. You can see a full list of permits and prices here.
How do you train for treks in the Himalayas?
Depending on where you choose to trek in the Himalayas, you can expect a significant physical challenge. The best way to prepare for a trek is to hike, trek or climb any mountains or hills near where you live. This will get your body used to walking uphill. Stamina is more important than speed, so train yourself to walk long distances at a pace that suits you.
How accessible is the internet and wifi?
In Kathmandu, Pokhara and other larger towns, almost every hotel offers free wifi. Internet cafes get fewer in number each year. On more popular trails such as some of the Annapurna and Everest routes, an increasing number of trekking lodges offer wifi. Sometimes it’s free, sometimes there’s a token payment. Connection speeds are better than you might expect. Elsewhere in the mountains internet is virtually non-existent, but in some larger towns such as Jomsom, Namche Bazaar and Manang it’s available.
Will ATMs accept my card and how do I get cash in Nepal?
Banks and ATMs accept foreign cards in all larger Nepalese towns and cities. Bigger banks will change cash (dollars and euros are best). Travellers’ cheques are rarely accepted now. The best way of accessing money is from an ATM. However, it’s wise to have some emergency cash with you in US dollars or euros. It’s harder to get cash once on the mountain trails. Some lodge owners might change dollars or euros, but don’t rely on it. Take more cash than you think you might need.
What time zone is Nepal in?
Nepal is 5hrs 45min ahead of GMT.
Will my mobile phone work?
Mobile phones are ubiquitous in Nepal. If your phone is unlocked, you can buy a cheap pre-pay Nepalese SIM card and a bundle of credit for talk time, text messages and internet. Take your passport with you to buy a SIM card. Reception is excellent in lowland areas and large towns and cities, but on the mountain trails you are highly unlikely to have a phone signal. Locals have phones that work but they use a special service not available to tourists.
Nepal trekking resources
Logistical information to help with planning your Nepal trekking trip
Organised vs independent trekking
There are two types of trekker on the more popular routes: Those walking independently and those on an organised trek, and there are pros and cons to both.
Organised treks
If the idea of an organised trek makes you shudder with thoughts of package tour-style walking, fear not. An organised trek can mean a party of just you, a guide and a porter, or even just a porter-guide. Mostly though, an organised trekking team will be made up of you and your trekking partners (the group could be assembled by you or by the trekking company), a guide and sometimes a western trek leader, a cook, kitchen assistants and any number of porters.
A fully organised trek is often a camping trek (as opposed to staying in teahouses/homestays), which allows freedom in deciding where to stop for the night and allowing you to avoid the busy overnight lodges used by most independent trekkers.
An organised trek also means security. Your guide and porters should know the route and they will know about problems up ahead that an independent trekker might be oblivious to. Having porters means you only need to walk with a light day bag. Other advantages are a more diverse range of food and having a cultural and language translator at hand.
Organised treks don’t have to be camping only. Even on more remote routes there is a growing number of wonderfully atmospheric homestays — Upper Mustang (p.74) is especially good for this — and very basic trekking lodges aimed more at local herders. The Kanchenjunga (p.124) trails are well endowed with these. It’s possible to tell your trekking company that you want to mix it up a bit with a combination of homestays, camping and basic trekking lodges. This gives you the best of all worlds.
The biggest advantage of an organised trek is that it allows you to explore huge swathes of upland Nepal that independent trekkers relying on lodges simply cannot reach. You can explore for longer in more remote, higher and, dare we say it, more exciting areas of Nepal.
The disadvantages of an organised trek are that your schedule can be tightly controlled, especially if
you’ve joined a group put together by the trekking company and there can be fewer opportunities to meet villagers.
Life on an organised trek
Life on an organised trek starts at first light with a reviving cup of tea brought to you in bed. Often, you’ll also be brought a bowl of hot water and a flannel to wash. Breakfast will be served half an hour or so later and while you tuck into steaming bowls of tsampa (delicious Tibetan porridge) the camp staff will pack away the tents and gear.
You’ll then walk until lunchtime. The kitchen staff and porters will normally have reached the lunch halt long before you. A hot drink will be waiting followed by a big lunch. After walking for another couple of hours you’ll normally arrive at the night stop by mid to late afternoon. Tents will have been erected and a cup of tea and biscuits or other snacks will be ready for your arrival. A big dinner will be served shortly after nightfall and then it’s an early night.
Depending on the size of your group and the level of luxury you opted for, it’s common to sleep in small two-man tents and to eat in a larger, communal dining tent. Normally there will be tables and chairs and sometimes a toilet tent as well. If you’ve tried to keep costs down you might not have these luxuries.
If the idea of an organised trek makes you shudder with thoughts of package tour-style walking, fear not. An organised trek can mean a party of just you, a guide and a porter, or even just a porter-guide. Mostly though, an organised trekking team will be made up of you and your trekking partners (the group could be assembled by you or by the trekking company), a guide and sometimes a western trek leader as well, a cook, kitchen assistants and any number of porters.
A fully organised trek is often a camping trek (as opposed to staying in teahouses / homestays), which allows freedom in deciding where to stop for the night and allowing you to avoid the busy overnight halts used by most independent trekkers.
An organised trek also means security. Your guide and porters should know the route and they will know about problems up ahead that an independent trekker might be oblivious to. And having porters means you only need walk with a light day bag. Other advantages are an often more diverse range of food and having a cultural and language translator at hand.
Organised treks don’t have to be camping only. Even on the remoter routes there is a growing number of wonderfully atmospheric homestays – Upper Mustang is especially good for this – and very basic trekking lodges aimed more at local herders. The Kanchenjunga trails are well endowed with these. It’s possible to tell your trekking company that you want to mix it up a bit with a combination of homestays, camping and basic trekking lodges. This gives you the best of all worlds.
The biggest advantage of an organised trek is that it allows you to explore huge swathes of upland Nepal that independent trekkers relying on lodges simply cannot reach. You can explore for longer in remoter, higher and, dare we say it, more exciting areas of Nepal.
The disadvantages of an organised trek are that your schedule can be tightly controlled, especially if you’ve joined a group put together by the trekking company, and there can be fewer opportunities to meet villagers.
Independent treks
In the three most popular trekking areas of Everest, Annapurna and Langtang, where trekking lodges/teahouses are found all along the trails and routes are clear and easy to follow, many people trek independently.
Independent trekking has a lot going for it — but it also has some very large negatives. It’s cheap, easy and a lot of fun. Trekking lodges — though normally far from luxurious — are often warmer and more comfortable than tents, and an increasing number now boast hot showers, varied menus and even wifi. With trekkers from across the globe congregating round the heater in the dining room at night, they are also social places.
Costs, even at the busiest times of year, are very low. Most lodges charge only a couple of hundred rupees (US $2-4) per person for a bed in a basic twin room and you are expected to eat in the lodge. If you choose to stay in one lodge but eat in another, expect to answer to an annoyed lodge owner. Because most food has to be carried in by porters, food costs more the further you walk from the trailheads. Even so, it’s still cheap on an international scale with dhal bhat (lentil curry and rice, Nepal’s national dish) costing around Rs 200-300 (US $2-3). Items such as steaks and beers (when available) cost much more.
Staying in trekking lodges means you don’t have to carry tents and cooking equipment. Many independent trekkers don’t bother to hire porters or guides and this also helps to reduce costs. A final, huge advantage of independent trekking is that you can change your schedule as you see fit — brilliant when someone you meet on the trail tells you about a beautiful side trip you really mustn’t miss.
However, there are a number of major drawbacks to independent trekking. The most obvious is that you are limited as to where and when you can trek. Attempt an unusual route and you could end up with nowhere to sleep and nothing to eat. On the busy routes, trekking lodges fill quickly. If you arrive late and find all the rooms taken, you might have to sleep on the floor of the dining room. That would never happen with an organised trek. In addition, in many parts of Nepal, independent trekking is actually forbidden.
Other drawbacks are that if you choose to trek without a guide and/or porter, you’ll have to carry all your own gear. A bag that feels light in a Kathmandu hotel feels very heavy indeed when you’re slogging your way up to a 5,000m pass. Trekking independently also increases the chances of getting lost, caught out in storms or making the wrong decisions when it comes to altitude-related difficulties. You might also encounter language problems without a guide.
If you do trek independently, at least hire a guide/porter through a reliable trekking agency. It will only add around US $20 a day to a trip, but it will make your trek that much more enjoyable — and could potentially save your life.
Life on an independent trek
Partition walls in trekking lodges are very thin and you will be woken around dawn by other trekkers preparing to head out early. With everyone trying to leave at around the same time, there will be a wait for breakfast and for the shared bathrooms and toilets. Most people are on their way by 8.30am and will walk until around noon.
Lunch is taken at another trekking lodge and again there can be quite a wait for food. Another couple of hours’ walk normally follows after lunch before arriving at your night stop and choosing your lodge. There’s often time to explore the village and the area before gathering round the heater in the dining room for dinner, swapping stories and sharing experiences. This is when independent trekking is at its best. Most people head to their often draughty wooden rooms by 8 or 9pm.
Permits and paperwork
Trekking permits in Nepal
TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management System)
All trekkers in Nepal must buy a TIMS card. The most convenient place to buy the card is at the Nepal Tourism Board office in either Kathmandu or Pokhara. Bring a copy of your passport and two passport-sized photos and be prepared to disclose your trekking route, entry and exit points and emergency contact information.
At the time of writing, free individual permits cost R 2,000 per trekking route per entry, while group trekkers pay R 1,000 per person.
A certain number of permits and other paperwork will be required for every trek in Nepal. All treks require you to get a TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System) card. The idea is that it allows the authorities to know where every foreign trekker is hiking and makes them easier to trace in an emergency. There are rumours that the cards will be done away with, but for now, they can be obtained quickly, cheaply and easily, in Kathmandu or Pokhara.
For the main trekking areas (Everest, Annapurna and Langtang) other paperwork required includes the relevant national park permits, which can be obtained in an hour or so in Kathmandu or Pokhara. For other treks, additional permits might be needed including Restricted Area Permits. In some cases, these permits are fairly cheap and fast to obtain (the Kanchenjunga area being a case in point), but in other areas such as Upper Mustang and Inner Dolpo they are very expensive (US$ 500 per person for 10 days and a minimum of two trekkers are required to get them). All Restricted Areas require you to be a part of an organised trek, but “organised” can be as low-key as you, a companion, a guide and porter or two.
If you’re on an organised trek your trekking agency will deal with all the required paperwork while you go sightseeing in Kathmandu. Independent trekkers will have to face Nepalese bureaucracy alone but in most cases, it’s pretty painless. You will need copies of your passport and a spare passport photo.
Unfortunately, none of the permits can be obtained at home before leaving for Nepal so it’s unlikely that you will be able to get off the plane and straight on to a bus to the trailhead. Allow at least a day to get the papers in order after you arrive.
Staying healthy
Trekking in the mountains of Nepal generally presents few health problems bar those of altitude and weather. Food poisoning and other tummy troubles aren’t as big an issue as they are in Kathmandu, Pokhara and the Terai lowlands. Be careful what you eat in those areas before going on a trek. The last thing you want is to start walking with a dodgy stomach.
Malaria and dengue fever, both of which are present in the Terai lowlands, are non-existent in the mountains. However, it’s important to be aware of problems brought on by altitude, or from getting too cold or hot.
Fitness and preparation
Many people worry that they won’t be fit and strong enough to trek in the Himalaya. In reality only moderate fitness is required on most of the standard trails (especially those open to independent trekkers). However, for a first time trek, it's best not to take on anything too long, high, or remote.
The more pre-departure training you can do the better, but aim to be comfortable walking several hours a day. Those short of fitness should opt for shorter and easier treks, and start walking at first light in order to give the maximum amount of daylight to cover the day’s walk.
Remember to break in new boots at home before using them on any trek.
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)
By far the biggest threat in the higher (above about 3,000m) routes in Nepal is altitude sickness, or Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). This potentially fatal condition is caused by a combination of reduced oxygen and lower atmospheric pressure reacting with the body.
Almost everyone who treks above 3,000m will get very mild symptoms, such as light dizziness or headaches and difficulty sleeping. Normally it only lasts for a short time and is more a sign of your body adapting to the lower oxygen levels at altitude. Take it easy and drink lots of water or ginger tea, and it should pass.
If symptoms persist or get worse and a strong headache and vomiting start to occur, then it’s likely that moderate or severe altitude sickness is striking. The best thing to do is to descend to a lower elevation as fast as possible — even if it’s the middle of the night. A porter might have to be hired to help get the victim down the mountain fast. Ignoring AMS can quickly lead to severe problems and even death.
It’s not clear how or why AMS strikes. There have been cases of Sherpas who climbed Everest a number of times but got severe AMS at just 3,500m. And it doesn’t necessarily strike the old or unfit first. There is some evidence to suggest that young people get it more commonly than older people, although that might just be because younger people are more likely to be gung-ho about climbing higher and faster than recommended.
The golden rule with high mountain trekking is to go slowly and never ascend too high, too fast. Most experts agree that above 3,000m you shouldn’t ascend more than around 300-500m in a day and that you should allow for frequent rest days above 3,500m (a rest day doesn’t actually mean having a rest. On these days it’s wise to hike to a higher altitude and then descend back down again to sleep). Following these simple rules will greatly reduce the chances of AMS.
Hypothermia
Hypothermia is not as common as you might expect on a Nepal trek but it’s certainly a risk for the under-dressed and unprepared. Symptoms are pretty similar to those of AMS with slurred speech, loss of concentration and fatigue all being key signs. Get the victim into a warm place, wrap them in sleeping bags and use your own body heat if necessary, and give them hot drinks and food.
Sunstroke and heat stroke
Sunstroke and heat stroke are both common, especially when walking all day in bright sunlight through the hotter, lower valleys and slopes. At such times try to rest in the shade, drink lots of water, eat something salty and wear a wide-brimmed hat.
Water and sanitation
The golden rule anywhere in Nepal is do NOT drink tap water without treating it first. The vast majority of trekkers carry packets of water purification tablets to treat their drinking water. In the Annapurna area many lodges have vats of pre-treated water and for a nominal fee you can fill up your own water bottles. Buying bottles of drinking water as you go is terrible for the environment at the best of times, but up in the Nepalese mountains with few recycling facilities it’s even worse.
Don’t expect much opportunity to wash while trekking. Showers, when available, are often cold which ain’t a lot of fun in the snow at 4,000m. On more popular routes hot, solar heated showers are sometimes available, but most people just wait until they get back to Kathmandu.
Packing List
The most important advice is – keep things light and minimal. When you’re slogging your way up to a mountain pass you will regret every extra kilo you’re carrying. The following is a list of recommended items, some of which are more essential than others.
Hiking boots
You’ll need boots. Not shoes or trail running shoes. Make sure they’re waterproof, very sturdy and above all, comfortable. Don’t buy a cheap pair, and make sure you break them in before leaving for Nepal. Whatever you do, don’t hire boots in Nepal as they probably won’t be up to scratch and will give you blisters. Nothing will ruin your trek more than blisters.
Winter jacket
A thick, warm, waterproof and breathable but lightweight jacket is another must. It needs to keep you warm as toast in sub-zero temperatures. These can be rented in Nepal but most are inferior knock-offs of respected brands. They’re okay for a one-off trip but if you’re likely to go mountain trekking again, it’s worth buying your own jacket.
Sleeping bag
It gets bitterly cold at night, even at comparatively low altitudes in winter, and the thin, gap-riddled walls of trekking lodge bedrooms provide little protection. Get the warmest yet lightest one you can afford. When a manufacturer says a sleeping bag can be used down to minus-10 degrees the reality is you won’t be comfortable in it below about plus-five. Aim for one that says it will keep you warm down to minus-20 or lower. A really good sleeping bag is expensive. Bags can be rented in Nepal but as with jackets, they’re very rarely of good quality.
Trekking Poles
If you’ve never trekked before then you might consider trekking poles as something that just old people use. Well trust us, if you don’t use them after a few days clambering up and down steep Himalayan slopes you’ll forever walk like an old person… Poles help save energy going up and take the strain off your legs on the way down. They also stop you falling and twisting ankles as much.
Water bottle
Take two of at least a litre each and refill whenever possible. Don’t rely on bottled mineral water. It’s often not available and it’s environmentally unfriendly, particularly up in the mountains where there’s little chance of recycling.
Water purification pills
Get enough to treat at least three litres of water a day
. On more popular trekking routes some lodges provide pre-treated water but don’t rely on this always being available.
Thermals
Two or three thermal tops of different thickness and even a pair of thermal under-trousers are worth their weight in gold.
Fleeces
Two fleeces, one thin and one thick, are vital.
Walking trousers
Don’t try to skip around the Annapurna Circuit in a pair of jeans (yes, we’ve seen people try. And fail). Get some comfortable walking trousers. Two pairs should be sufficient for the longest treks.
T-shirts/shirts
Many people recommend specialist quick-dry shirts designed for trekking. However, we’ve used a combination of these and normal shirts and T-shirts and never noticed much difference. Don’t over pack. You probably won’t change your shirt more than once in a two-week trek!
Socks
Specialist hiking socks are supposed to reduce blisters and are worth buying. However, changing your socks frequently seems to reduce blisters as much as any clever equipment. Take at least three pairs for a two-week trek. Also pack a thick, warm pair of ski socks to keep warm when you arrive at camp.
Sandals
Most people appreciate being able to remove their boots at the end of the day and don some sandals (with or without thick ski socks, depending on how cold it is).
Hats
A sun hat is vital for hotter, lower elevations, and a winter hat or balaclava for up high.
Gloves
Take a thick warm pair of skiing gloves and a thin, cotton pair of under gloves. You won’t be able to use your camera or eat properly with thick gloves but you can with the thin ones, and they’ll keep your hands warm for a few minutes.
Sun glasses
An essential bit of kit at all elevations. The sun reflecting off the snow can quickly frazzle your eyes.
Suncream and sunblock
Slap on lots of sun cream no matter what the weather or elevation. Use total sunblock on lips, nose and ears.
Wash kit
Keep this minimal as you won’t get much chance to wash. A small lightweight travel towel isn’t a bad idea.
Torch
A head torch is a must.
Books
The evenings can be long. Bring a good book, not a tablet or Kindle as power sources can be erratic and batteries drain very fast at altitude. Don’t forget a guidebook. We recommend the Rough Guide to Nepal, which covers the country and gives details of the main treks. For specific trekking information try Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya.
Camera
Even non-photographers will want photos of this stunning scenery.
Spare batteries
Bring spare torch, camera and phone batteries. Below a certain temperature and above a certain altitude (which vary from product to product), batteries drain very fast or don’t work at all. Above about 3,000m put the batteries in your sleeping bag at night to keep them warm and reduce drainage.
Snacks
A few biscuits and chocolate bars might give you the energy boost you need to get over that pass.
Backpack
To carry all this you’ll need a decent, comfortable trekking backpack. Don’t consider any other kind of bag. If you’re using a porter you’ll need a small backpack for your day gear and you’ll have to provide a bag for the porter to carry - a holdall is best.
Travel Insurance
You’d be utterly insane to go trekking in the Himalayas without a decent travel insurance policy. Make sure it covers trekking above a certain altitude and helicopter rescue.
Leave the gadgets at home
Don’t bother taking computers, tablets, etc. They get easily broken on the trail and the batteries probably won’t work at altitude. More importantly, most people don’t want to see fellow trekkers glued to their tablets in a lodge at night.
Nepal Trekking FAQs
Visas
Visas for most nationalities are available at major air and land borders on arrival. Prices for 15/30/90 days are US $25/40/100. You can pay in US dollars, euros, British pounds and some other major currencies. You can also apply online at www.online.nepalimmigration.go... which, in theory at least, reduces time queuing on arrival in Kathmandu.
Internet
In Kathmandu, Pokhara and other larger towns almost every hotel in all price ranges offers free wi-fi. Internet cafes get fewer in number each year. On more popular trails such as some of the Annapurna and Everest routes an increasing number of trekking lodges offer wi-fi. Sometimes it’s free, sometimes there’s a token payment. Connection speeds are better than you might expect. Elsewhere in the mountains internet is virtually non-existent, but in some larger towns such as Jomsom, Namche Bazaar and Manang it’s available.
Money & banks
Banks and ATMs accept foreign cards in all larger Nepalese towns and cities. Bigger banks will change cash (dollars and euros are best). Travellers’ cheques are rarely accepted now. The best way of accessing money is from an ATM. However, it’s wise to have a some emergency cash with you in US dollars or euros. On the mountain trails you won’t be able to get hold of cash easily. Some lodge owners might change dollars or euros, but don’t rely on it. Take more cash than you think you might need.
Time
Nepal is 5hrs 45min ahead of GMT.
Telephones
Mobile phones are ubiquitous in Nepal. If your phone is unlocked you can buy a cheap pre-pay Nepalese SIM card and a bundle of credit for talk time, text messages and internet. Take your passport with you to buy a SIM card. Reception is excellent in lowland areas and large towns and cities, but on the mountain trails you are highly unlikely to have a phone signal. Locals have phones that work but they use a special service not available to tourists.
Where to go in Nepal
Our recommended places
Dolpo region
A vast and little known swathe of western Nepal. Dolpo is a magical region of frozen desert, piercing blue skies and unnamed peaks folding along the furthest horizon.
Upper Mustang
Shrouded in mystery and completely closed to outsiders until 1992, walking here is as much a cultural experience as a mountain one.
Annapurna region
Home to the Annapurna Circuit, the classic walk of Nepal and one that for many years was hyped as quite simply the single best trek on the planet.
Everest Base Camp
A trek to Everest base camp is as much a pilgrimage as a straightforward trek, but there’s much more to the region than ‘just’ Mt Everest.
Makalu
Isolated villages, forests hung in mosses and orchids, high yak pastures and, finally, the rock and ice wastes around Makalu base camp for some of the most inspiring mountain vistas in Nepal.
Manaslu region
The worlds eighth-highest mountain, surrounded by steamy lowland valleys and fields of rice slowly giving way to ice coated passes haunted by snow leopards and who knows what else.
Kanchenjunga
Kanchenjunga is the third highest mountain on Earth and the hike to the base camp of this daunting peak is one of the most exciting treks in
Langtang region
Visible from central Kathmandu, Langtang has some of the most accessible trekking in Nepal – if it weren’t for the traffic you could almost walk from your guesthouse straight to the mountains.
Far West region
A landscape of deep, dank forests, sparkling sheets of water, lonely mountains crushed in ice and snow, narrow canyons and ancient villages.
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