Nepal
The country at the top of the world
Home to Mount Everest and more than half of the planet’s other 8,000m-plus mountains, Nepal stakes a strong claim as the trekking capital of the world.
Nepal was closed to outsiders and most foreign influences for the first half of the 20th century, and when the first western mountaineers and trekkers arrived in the 1950s they were enchanted by what they discovered. The country was living in a medieval time warp and even the capital, Kathmandu, was little more than a collection of temples, shrines, palaces, markets and red brick townhouses. There were almost no roads in the country and those first mountaineers and trekkers had to walk from Kathmandu’s Durbar Square to Everest and the other big peaks.
Things have come on a long way since then. Kathmandu is now a sprawling mega-city, the ever-expanding road network fans out across much of the lower and flatter parts of the country and the Nepal trekking industry is second to none. One thing that hasn’t changed though is the magnificence of the mountains, the sheer beauty of the countryside, and the unending warmth of welcome displayed by the Nepalese people. These are what continue to make Nepal such an attractive trekking destination.
With the spectacular Himalayas running down its eastern side, it’s no surprise Nepal is known as the roof of the world. Getting out into these vast panoramas with their immense snowy peaks, flower-strewn meadows and sparkling lakes — while also making time to relax at chilled out Pokhara — is reason enough to visit.
But there's far more to Nepal than just mountains and trekking.
Down on the hot lush plains of the Terai, you'll find a brace of magical national parks where rare beasts like one-horned rhino and tiger roam and the trees twitch with birdlife. Your chances of seeing rhino are surprisingly high if you visit in the spring. Then there are the cultural jewels, a scattering of ancient cities stuffed with serene temples, cobbled alleys and hidden squares. In parts of Bhaktapur, Patan and the vibrant capital Kathmandu, it feels like life hasn't changed in generations.
Hidden gems in Nepal
Khumbu (Everest) Region
Pikey Peak Trek
This newly opened route in the Everest (Khumbu) region leads to Pikey Peak, which was regarded by Sir Edmund Hilary to offer the very best view of Mt Everest. Despite this claim to fame, Pikey Peak is hardly-known on the mainstream trekking circuit, drawing a fraction of the visitors who trek out to Everest Base Camp (from which you can't even see the famous mountain!) It's also an easy and relatively short trek for the Everest region, so I often recommend this one to guests who are keen on seeing Everest, but either don't have the time or the confidence to do one of the more challenging Everest treks.
Read more
Annapurna Region
Panchase Trek
This is one of my favourite alternative treks in the Annapurna region. Don't worry if you've not heard of it – most visitors haven’t, which means you’ll enjoy largely crowd-free trails while ascending to magnificent viewpoints at a maximum altitude of just 2,500 metres. A highlight of this route is the way it begins: you’ll depart directly from the lakeside in Pokhara, boarding one of the city’s colourful boats to reach the opposite shore of Phewa Lake. Your destination on this four-day route is the hill station of Panchase, and you’ll pass through a number of charming Himalayan villages to get there. All told, this is a great Annapurna trek where you won’t have to worry about a long haul on dusty roads. I often recommend it for an acclimatisation trek before embarking on one of the longer and higher altitude main routes.
Read more
Dolpo region
Dolpo to Jomsom or Upper Mustang
You want adventure? Here it is: The epic three to four-week long Dolpo to Jomsom or Upper Mustang trek. Starting from the airstrip at Juphal head north to Phoksundo Lake (you can also go via Do Tarap), over the Sehu La (5,160m) to Shey Gompa and then east, up and over several massive 5,000m-plus passes, through desolate high-altitude desert. The only other people you’ll meet will be the occasional herder with his flocks, or a yak caravan and trader returning from Tibet. There are one or two tiny villages along the way. Almost completely cut off from the rest of the world, this is a fascinating insight into old Tibetan culture.There’s no set route and any company offering this trek will largely create their own. Make sure they have guides who know the area. The route to Jomsom takes you into the shadow of mighty Dhaulagiri and is the slightly shorter walk (three weeks all in). It also doesn’t require quite as many restricted area permits, which makes it a little cheaper. The more rewarding route though would take you up along the border of Tibet to Lo Manthang in Upper Mustang, and from there back down to Jomsom. Allow a month for this walk. You will need the Inner Dolpo and the Upper Mustang permits.This trek is a true expedition and should not be attempted by inexperienced trekkers.
Read more
Annapurna Region
Annapurna luxury lodge trek
If you shudder at the idea of overnighting in a wooden room no larger than a prison cell, with the single shared toilet located down a hallway echoing with the thunderous snores of a two-dozen unwashed trekkers (or even worse; a tent!), then you might want to consider a luxury trekking itinerary in the Annapurna foothills. You’ll avoid the discomfort of high altitude and can focus on lovely days spent wandering village trails, safe in the knowledge that a hot shower and happy hour awaits you at the end of the day. Ker & Downey operates a string of lodges in the foothills north of Pokhara, allowing you to link the Gurung villages of Dhampus, Ghandruk, Majgaun, Landruk and Birethanti in a five or six day loop, with fine views of iconic fish-tailed Machapuchare never far away. This is trekking in style.
Read more
Annapurna Region
Annapurna North Base Camp
Best trek for: Expedition style campingDifficulty: ModerateDuration: Five to six daysMax elevation: 4,050mAccommodation: campingStart/end point: Tatopani/Sandhi Kharka New trek routes always get my pulse racing, especially when they follow in the footsteps of a famous old expedition route. This particular trek follows the expedition route of Maurice Herzog’s epic 1950 ascent of Annapurna I (8,091m), the first ever ascent of an 8,000m peak, and it takes you up to an amazing mountain amphitheatre ringed with 7,000m peaks. Unlike the busy base camps of the popular Annapurna Sanctuary trek, this ‘alternative’ Annapurna Base Camp trek is a true hidden gem that sees only a trickle of well-informed trekkers, largely because you need to camp and be self-sufficient. There are no lodges here and definitely no apple pie. The trek starts at Tatopani, veering off the Annapurna Circuit to make a dramatic, sphincter-tightening jeep ride up the wild, sheer-sided gorge of the Mristi Khola. The walking starts at the hydroelectric plant at Hum Khola Dovan (2,880m), with overnights at Sandhi Kharka and Bhusket Mela (3,550m), until you finally set up camp in the astounding glacial basin of Narchang Lake (4,050m). This secret spot, surrounded by Annapurna I, Fang, Tilicho and Nilgiri peaks and walled off by the Great Barrier of the Annapurnas, is a classic mountain cul-de-sac, surrounded by glaciers, waterfalls and vertical rock walls. The opportunities for day hikes here are fabulous, with faint trails leading to Annapurna North Base Camp, Advanced Base Camp and Nilgiri Base Camp via some epic glacier viewpoints. Bring a copy of Maurice Herzog’s classic 1951 Annapurna, and spend the evenings reading his account of the groundbreaking ascent and even more harrowing descent. It’s a day’s walk back to Sandhi Kharka and then half a day to meet your jeep and make the wild ride back.
Read more
Annapurna Region
Mardi Himal trek
Do you want a taste of the Annapurna region – forests, hillsides of rhododendrons, airy ridge walks and close-up views of big peaks – but can’t afford more than a week? If yes, then I think the Mardi Himal trek might just be for you. It’s very accessible (less than an hour by bus or taxi from Pokhara), well signed, and the trail will take you past everything from Gurung villages to high Alpine ridges. Not so many foreign trekkers make it here but the lodges are decent (though not as comfortable as other parts of the region). It’s popular with Nepali trekkers, though, so avoid weekends if you can. The first day or two take you past Australia Camp and the village of Pothana up through the forests of Pitam Deorali to teahouses at Forest Camp, but before long you’ll find yourself above the treeline at Low Camp (2,985m) and then High Camp (3,550m), where the views of fish-tailed Machapuchare, Himchuli and the Annapurnas really open up. Pray for good weather for the amazing final hike from High Camp up to Mardi Himal ‘Base Camp’ West for views of peaks that seem within reach, before returning to Low Camp. From here return to jeep access roads at Sidhing, Galel or Lwang, or hike from Forest Camp to the road at Landruk. If you are fit (and, crucially, acclimatised) the trek can be done in four days, though five to six is more likely. For an excellent 10-11 day trek link Mardi Himal with the Annapurna Sanctuary route via Landruk.
Read more
Langtang region
Ganesh Himal trek
Named after Ganesh, the elephant-headed Hindu god of fortune, Ganesh Himal lies directly between the Manaslu and Langtang ranges, and is one of the great unknowns of Nepalese trekking. With stunning mountain scenery, attractive and welcoming villages, hot springs, waterfalls and a genuine sense of being well off the beaten track, the Ganesh region really has a bit of everything — except crowds of other trekkers. A handful of homestays and trekking lodges have started to open up, but for now the trails are still largely empty. Because formal accommodation is still so scarce, an organised camping trip is the best way to tackle this trek. There are a couple of different trekking routes in the Ganesh region which you can access from Manaslu and the Tsum Valley in the west, but the standard trail starts from Syabrubesi and follows the Tamang Heritage Trail to the gorgeous village of Gatlang before crossing the Pansang La pass (3,842m).
Read more
Annapurna Region
Khopra Ridge trek
Also known as the Khopra Danda trek, this is well off the standard Annapurna trekking routes and offers a low-key, peaceful trek to lofty viewpoints on the flanks of Annapurna South. There are a number of different route variations but my favourite branches off the Poon Hill trek at Tadopani and climbs to lodges at Bayeli (with its amazing Mulde viewpoint), Chistibang and then Khopra Danda, before descending to Swanta and Ghorepani The trails pass through charming villages with simple private and community lodges and lots of pretty forests. Khopra Ridge itself is an impressive dome with an exposed trail running along it that feels much higher than it really is (especially when covered in snow). The views across to Dhaulagiri I (8,167m) are unforgettable. From the ridge it’s possible to make a very long and challenging 10-hour day trip to the high altitude Khayer Lake (4,600m). Given the 1,000-metre height gain in a day, plus the beauty of the lake, it’s much more advisable to go on an organised camping trek and sleep on the lake shore.
Read more
Far West Nepal
Rara Lake trek
The focus on the trek to Rara Lake isn’t so much on the high mountains (though these are always the backdrop), but rather on unhurried village life and the variety of ethnic groups found along the way. The thick forests that surround the lake provide a home to musk deer, black bears and other wildlife. The area around the lake is a national park with few signs of human habitation and there are some delightful wild camping spots. This is a genuine wilderness trek.
Read more
Annapurna Region
Nar-Phu trek
Most Annapurna Circuit trekkers heading through the village of Koto won’t know that a trail off to the east leads to a magical, hidden world. The Nar and Phu valleys were closed to tourism until 2002 and when they finally opened up the first trekkers discovered a landscape of narrow gorges, 7km high mountains, timeless stone villages festooned with prayer flags, and a distinct local culture based on yak herding and trade with neighbouring Tibet. Still rarely trekked (a restricted area permit and camping gear is required), the route follows a dark, deep and shady gorge up to the mediaeval village of Phu, which consists of around 40 or 50 mud and stone houses and red painted monasteries huddled together on the top of a hill. Entry to the village is via a spectacular old gateway. It’s worth allowing a couple of nights in Phu to explore the upper valley. To leave, you have to retrace your steps halfway back down the valley before veering west up the Nar valley, over yak pastures to the large traditional village of Nar where there are four gompas (Buddhist monasteries) worth visiting. Independent trekkers relying on lodges will probably have to turn back here and retrace their steps to Koto, but camping groups and acclimatised trekkers can make the exciting crossing of the Kang La (5,320m) down to Ngawal back on the Annapurna Circuit. This trek works well either as an add-on to the Annapurna Circuit or as a short, stand-alone trek in its own right. For adventurous trekkers with all the correct permits on fully-organised camping treks, it’s possible to take a wild, difficult and very rarely walked route from the village of Nar into Upper Mustang via the taxing Teri La Pass (5,595m).
Read more
Makalu
Makalu to Everest trek
One of the most challenging treks in this book is the Makalu to Everest traverse via the very high passes of Sherpani (6,135m), West Col (6,143m), Baruntse Base Camp (5,700m) and Amphu Laptsa (5,850m) before descending into the Everest region at Pangboche. You should allow a minimum of three weeks for this trek and a lot more if you want to explore the Everest region in depth. You will need full expedition equipment, an experienced team, mountaineering experience and to be prepared for many nights’ camping above 4,500m.
Read more
Far West Nepal
Saipal Base Camp trek
This very remote trek leads through pristine conifer forest to the base camp for Saipal (7,031m), western Nepal’s highest mountain. This is possibly the quietest trek listed in this book and any agency offering this will probably have their own variation of the walk.
Read more-
Pikey Peak Trek
View experience -
Panchase Trek
View experience -
Annapurna luxury lodge trek
View experience -
Annapurna North Base Camp
View experience -
Mardi Himal trek
View experience -
Khopra Ridge trek
View experience -
Nar-Phu trek
View experience -
Tilicho Lake trek
View experience -
Helambu trek
View experience -
Poon Hill trek
View experience -
Three Passes trek
View experience -
Road-free Annapurna Circuit
View experience -
Manaslu Circuit trek
View experience
Nepal travel companies
