Southern Africa is not so much a geographic or political entity, more a convenient term—often used by outsiders, including travel guides like ourselves—to group a collection of states marked by an astonishing diversity.
Botswana, Eswatini (Swaziland), Lesotho, Malawi, Mozambique, Namibia, South Africa, Zambia, and Zimbabwe, occupy the southern tip of Africa; their location being one of the few things they have in common (some include Angola; the island of Madagascar is usually excluded because of its distinctiveness).
One thing they do share is a troubled past: a visitor to any of these countries will find plenty of food for thought as to the long-term effects of colonialism, many of which are still playing out, including, arguably, in the travel industry.
On the positive side there are the most fantastic sights on offer, and experiences to be had. The natural beauty is, of course, breathtaking; a safari in one of the world-famous national parks is an adventure not to be missed. But there's so much more to Southern Africa than its safari parks. There are nearly 70 million people living here, speaking something like 1,500 different languages, with individual cultures and distinct identities. You'll come for the safari, but you'll fall in love with the people.
It will be stunning, it may be unsettling. But a trip to Southern Africa comes with one guarantee: the memories you take home will stay with you forever.
I'm a photographer, so I need a full seat in the safari vehicle, and my husband is a birder. What are the likely costs and best locations for birding and safari?
Answered by: Rory Sheldon
Off the bat, the Okavango Delta is the must-see destination, especially for a photographer. Prices range across the board: in low season you're looking at an entry point of about USD 400 per person per day, with high season coming in around USD 900.
For photographers and birders, I'd suggest 3 nights in the Linyanti region and 3 nights in the Okavango Delta with Kwando Safaris. They have an excellent discount in the low season, and their camps are the best set up for photographers. They also have indigenous guides on all game vehicles, which makes a huge difference.
You'll read online that the best time for safari is the peak dry season, June to September. That's right for classic big-game viewing, but for photography and birding I'd recommend the green season, January to April: bird life is more active, the scenery is spectacular, and prices are much more affordable in low season. If you visit towards the end of March or in April, you could also add Nxai Pan to see the zebra migration, which is great for photography.
Where would you recommend for two nights? It doesn't have to be a big park, but I'd like to see big cats.
G
Answered by: Giliad Walton
I'd recommend Hwange National Park for big cats. Recommended camps are The Hide at the high end. There are many mid-range camps, but I love Sikumi Tree Lodge.
Looking at Karongwe or Timbavati reserves in April, our budget is around $350 per person per night. Would this work, what do you recommend?
Answered by: Anton Vosloo
Timbavati would be perfect, however, space is limited in April for the more affordable lodges that would work around this budget. Alternatives would be the Klaserie Private Reserve, it is right next to the Timbavati, still part of the Greater Kruger reserves, and would likely have better luck with your exact dates within a similar budget.
Travelling outside of high season is far cheaper and I think is actually a much nicer time of year to visit.
December to March is the low season – often called the Green Season because of regional rains (that bring the heat down), and April to June is mid-season which is also beautiful.
Don’t necessarily believe what you may read about better game viewing in the high season. Game viewing is great in Botswana year-round.
If you only have five days and a limited budget, it’s a toss-up between visiting Chobe or visiting the Okavango Delta. Chobe will be cheaper, but you’re going to be getting a far more rounded experience in the Delta.
I would suggest the Delta as the better option, and if you hit the right time of year, the pricing can be favourable.
If you have only five days, I would suggest visiting two separate camps in the Okavango. You’ll need to pay for an extra flight, but it’s a good idea to spread a wider net as we never really know where the game viewing is going to be best.
Another option for a five-day trip would be to spend three nights in Chobe, followed by two nights in the Okavango Delta (or vice versa). I recommend the extra night in Chobe rather than the Delta as this gives you a whole day to explore Victoria Falls. For this option you would need to fly from Kasane to an Okavango Camp, and fly from that camp out to Maun for a connection home.
Most of the accommodation actually within Kruger National Park is run by the park authorities - great locations, but the accommodations are fairly basic and very busy. If you want to splash out, this is probably not what you're looking for.
Consider instead one of the private reserves (conservancies) that sit alongside Kruger - they have much the same wildlife, but way more choice when it comes to accommodation, and fewer visitors and vehicles. I've always enjoyed Timbavati Nature Reserve and Shindzela - I saw all the big five in one afternoon here!
Although it’s easy to get swept up with the romance of it all, you shouldn’t forget that your presence has a direct impact on the ecosystem, for good and bad.
The upside of your visit is that the money you put into the system pays for conservation and helps keep the land protected and wild. Without wildlife tourism, there’s a very real chance that many of South Africa’s conservation zones would become farmland.
But there are things you can do to make your impact as positive as possible. Before booking with any safari company, camp or lodge, or even choosing the parks and reserves you wish to visit, take a look at the conservation and community projects they are involved with. And when you do book, remember to mention that their community projects were a factor in your decision. This will encourage further investment in such programmes.
On safari, treat the wildlife with the respect it deserves. Getting too close to wildlife, approaching animals head-on or pursuing and encircling them is likely to disturb them and cause distress. Approach wildlife at an angle, which is less threatening than coming at animals head-on. Movements must be steady and predictable.
Yes, it’s easy to self-drive in South Africa and, generally, fairly safe although car crime can be an issue (don't leave anything in your car in towns). If you're just hopping from national park to park and sticking mainly to rural regions then self-drive in South Africa is simple enough. Just remember that South Africa is a big place so don't try and cover it all in one trip!
If you’re just looking for your standard Big 5 safari, fewer nights in one or two really great private reserves trumps more nights in a crowded national park. My standard advice is to get more bang for your buck: aim for fewer nights, but spend more per night for the best reserve/lodge that your budget can stretch to.
National Parks are government-owned and managed and private reserves are, you guessed it, privately owned and operated.
National parks serve a broader range of budgets, including some fairly low cost safaris and basic accommodation. They’re busier, sometimes feeling crowded, and activities are limited to standard game drives.
Private reserves are a whole other affair, can be very exclusive and upscale and you’ll often have the wildlife all to yourself. Privately operated reserves are free to offer a wider range of activities such as night game drives and horseback rides.
Probably my biggest piece of advice would be to make plenty of time to see the rest of the country either before or after your safari. Just a smattering of suggestions:
South Africa’s cities, history and urban culture: There’s Table Mountain, Robben Island, and the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town. The Apartheid Museum and Maboneng Precinct in Johannesburg. And of course a visit to Nelson Mandela House Museum in Soweto.
If nature and the outdoors are your bag look into Blyde River Canyon for breathtaking views and hiking trails, the fascinating hominid fossils at Cradle of Humankind just north of Johannesburg, the waterfalls at Augrabies Falls National Park and the scenic trails and views of Plettenberg Bay at Robberg Nature Reserve.
For some beach and coast time there’s Golden Mile and Umhlanga Rocks at Durban, whale watching in Hermanus (best between June and November), and the lagoons and beaches of West Coast National Park.
Finally for some road trips and scenic routes have a look at the Garden Route, famous for its charming towns and beautiful beaches; vineyard driving routes around Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, or Constantia, or, for something totally different, to the glorious tacky Sun City.
If you're expecting colourfully dressed, exotic-looking tribal peoples that you can visit and for it not to feel commercial, then no that's difficult to find. An experience like that that you’re paying for will, by definition, be somewhat inauthentic, if not exploitative.
However, if you want to meet people of different tribes but not necessarily dressed in an exotic manner and dancing around for you then that's possible everywhere in South Africa on almost every street.
For something more in-between, and I suspect, more what you're after then I'd try heading to the Kalahari regions in the north. It's a stunning semi-desert region (lots of interesting wildlife and a real wilderness feel) and is the home of South Africa's small San Bushmen community. These were some of the original inhabitants of southern Africa and some do live a very traditional lifestyle (but well away from tourists).
You don’t need much specialist gear for a South African safari.
Most people will want a photographic record of their adventure and if wildlife images are important to you then you need a good DSLR camera with a long lens, at least 400mm. Anything less and the animals will appear as nothing but hazy dots in a sea of scrub. Bring spare camera batteries and memory cards.
Binoculars are another essential. Get the best pair you can afford and make sure that everyone in your group has a pair or there will be endless bickering over whose turn it is to get a closer look at that distant rhino.
A good field guide to the birds and animals is an excellent addition to your pack. Most guides will have one for guests to use, but it’s still nice to have your own.
Lightweight walking shoes are a good idea (and essential for anyone planning a walking safari). Hiking trousers and shorts are also worth having. They provide protection from the thorn bushes and sun and are comfortable to wear. Don’t forget to bring a fleece as it can be surprisingly cold during a sunrise safari. Sun hat, sunscreen and sunglasses are three other essentials.
If staying in up-market accommodation, it’s probably worth bringing a set of slightly smarter clothes for evening dinner.
With fluctuating temperatures — hot and sunny during the day, cold at night — layering is your best option. Some things to consider bringing include:
T-shirts or shirts — bring some longsleeve ones to combat mosquito and the sun
In some environments such as at lodges, on safari and on treks, tipping is structured in ways that make it clear, fair and less easy to abuse. Tips can be given in local currencies or in USD, GBP or EUR, so be sure to carry small denominations with you. As a general guide:
Guide/tracker: Your guide and tracker are central to the success of your safari. You’ll have plenty of time to connect with them and, by the end of your trip, they might just be your new best friends. With guides, it’s customary to leave a tip on your departure. What you choose to leave is totally up to you, but a general rule of thumb on safari is to tip your guide US$10 and your tracker US$5 per person per day.
Guests that are returning to a lodge that they have visited before, sometimes even bring small, personalised gifts for their guides. Alternatively, the lodges will generally give you a guideline for tipping and gifting if you ask them.
Camp/lodge staff: There is a lot that happens behind the scenes on your safari and it’s important to consider and acknowledge all the wonderful people who look after the lodge. Most safari lodges and camps have a communal tip ‘jar’ and around US$10 to US$20 per day is considered a reasonable tip.
Outside of the lodges/camps, you might want to tip 10% to 15% for good service at restaurants and in bars. Most waiters earn an incredibly basic wage so tips are a much-needed supplement. If you're just buying a beer or a coke, it's fine to leave the change rather than a specific tip. If you're dining with a large group at a nice restaurant, a service charge will usually be automatically added to your bill.
At budget hotels, tips for housekeeping are not expected but are nevertheless always welcome. At luxury safari camps there will often be a general tipping box at the front desk or reception. Tips deposited here will usually be spread evenly between camp staff; so if you want to tip someone specifically, make sure to do so directly.
South Africa’s currency is the Rand, denoted by an R in shops and ZAR in currency trading. A favourable exchange rate with major currencies makes travelling in South Africa cheaper than visiting Europe or the United States. You can use credit cards in many shops, restaurants and lodges; there are many ATMs throughout the country and you can exchange traveller’s cheques at all banks. The best cash currencies to bring are US Dollars, Euros or British Pounds as these notes are accepted at the many Bureaux de Change in bigger cities.
You will be offered currency exchanges by people on the street throughout Africa. It may be tempting to avoid the conversion commissions; however, this is illegal and should be avoided at all costs.
On safari, almost all major expenses (all meals, activities, and, sometimes even, drinks) are covered in the costs of accommodation. Any extras tend to be very limited, and can generally be paid by card.
In urban centers, particularly in South Africa, ATMs are to be found in most shopping malls and banks, and will accept international cards using the Cirrus and Plus systems, as well as Visa, Mastercard, or American Express credit cards (provided your credit account has a cash withdrawal facility).
All airports in south Africa also have ATMs, and you can withdraw money as soon as you land (generally at a better exchange rate than if you were to exchange cash or travellers checks at a bank).
The standard of food is generally very high — even in the remotest lodges. Most lodges will have qualified chefs on hand and part of the entire safari experience is the cuisine and the emphasis placed on food.
Kids of all ages enjoy safaris as much as any adult. But a safari tends to mean a lot of time in a vehicle, often on bad roads and in hot weather. If there’s plenty of action taking place, younger children will be as hooked as you. But they can become bored the moment the pace slows down. If travelling with kids, ensure you choose camps or lodges that offer plenty of child-friendly activities. Some lodges and camps don’t accept children under a certain age. And don’t plan on heading out on early game drives every morning.
In a word, no. The chances of being attacked by an animal are so minimal it hardly warrants considering. However, you must stick to the general rules imposed by the park and heed the instructions of your guides. If you break those and decide to go for a moonlight walk through the bush on your own, then yes, you might become a midnight snack.
Most safaris start around dawn with a quick breakfast before heading out in the vehicles to begin animal spotting. Most animals choose to hunt in the early morning or dusk when temperatures are cooler. It’s also a good time to spot nocturnal animals returning from a night’s hunting, such as lions.
After a few hours in the field, you’ll break for lunch before heading out again until dusk. In general, expect to spend between 6-8 hours each day searching for animals. Remember that temperatures will regularly reach 30C and the tracks the vehicles drive on can be bumpy and dusty. Dress appropriately, wear lots of suncream and drink plenty of water. Evenings are spent swapping stories — and drinks — around the campfire.
It’s also worth remembering that you’re visiting national parks, not zoos. There is no guarantee that you’ll see any of the Big Five — or any animal at all. Conversely, be aware that you’ll spend eight hours a day searching for wildlife. It is possible for animal ‘fatigue’ to set in if you spend too long in one park or lodge. To counter this, visit different lodges or parks, and mix up your experience by including walking safaris, overnight camping or evening safaris.
This is a virtually impossible question to answer as there’s such a huge range! But broadly speaking at the low-cost/budget end it ranges from USD $100 to $300 per person per night. This typically includes basic accommodations, such as tented camps or rest camp lodges.
At the mid-range prices might be USD $300 - $600 per person per night with a corresponding bump in accommodation quality.
At the high end there seems to be no ceiling. In private game reserves visitors can spend from $600 to $2,000 or more per person per night. You’ll be grateful that the sundowner is included in the price and additional activities like bush walks, night drives, or even hot air balloon rides may be included.
There are two main classes of safari: self-drive and organised trips.
Self-drive means using your own vehicle (typically a rental car) to travel between the game reserves and, where self-drive safaris are permitted, making your own way through the reserves and parks. You’ll need to book ahead at your chosen accommodation in each reserve, and be sure to check that self-drive safaris are permitted.
Organised safaris are similar to typical packaged multi-stop tours, usually with a number of different reserves or parks in one trip. They include all accommodation, collection and ground transfers from the airports (or, in the case of some luxury lodges, fly-ins to their own private airstrips). You won’t need your own vehicle and all game drives will be with a guide, usually in a small group of guests.
The main pros to self-drive safaris are that they’re cheaper, allow you to visit places that aren’t included in package tours, and they give you more freedom to change plans at the last moment.
There are a number of drawbacks. Firstly, you most likely won’t be in a specialised safari vehicle, typically a large, open-sided 4WD that is purpose made for good visibility. This is usually a deal-breaker for keen wildlife spotters and photographers, as being in a rental saloon car severely limits where you can go and how much you can see. Self-drive safari also means that you are your own guide and wildlife spotter. Fun perhaps, but you’ll miss lots of sightings without a proper guide.
But not all organised safaris are created equal. The best organised tours use customised jeeps and highly-trained guides who will enliven your experience with their vast knowledge and tracking skills. Poor quality safaris can mean an overcrowded minibus hurtling from one sighting to the next with a guide who barely knows his giraffe from his flamingo. As with most things in life, you get what you pay for — aim as high as you can afford, even if that means taking a shorter trip.
I would love to have a visit with a tribe as well as long as it is authentic, and not just a tourist trap. Can you recommend anything?
Answered by: Stuart Butler
If you're expecting colourfully dressed, exotic-looking tribal peoples that you can visit and for it not to feel commercial, then no that's difficult to find. An experience like that that you’re paying for will, by definition, be somewhat inauthentic, if not exploitative.
However, if you want to meet people of different tribes but not necessarily dressed in an exotic manner and dancing around for you then that's possible everywhere in South Africa on almost every street.
For something more in-between, and I suspect, more what you're after then I'd try heading to the Kalahari regions in the north. It's a stunning semi-desert region (lots of interesting wildlife and a real wilderness feel) and is the home of South Africa's small San Bushmen community. These were some of the original inhabitants of southern Africa and some do live a very traditional lifestyle (but well away from tourists). You can read more about the area here.
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The Southern Africa atlas
30 picksPlaces & Experiences You Won't Find Elsewhere
Where
What
Lake Kariba is the world's largest artificial lake and reservoir and is, for me, one of the most magical places on earth.
The lake was formed following the damming of the Zambezi River in the 60s and now marks the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. The southern Zimbabwean side of the lake forms the edge of the magnificent Matusadona National Park.
The shore is dotted with lodges, most of which are very remote given the lake’s vast size. Kariba is teeming with hippos, crocodiles, elephants and more. The fishing is excellent, and sport fishing for tiger fish is a big deal, with an annual tournament in October.
Some of the lodges are a bit closer to all-inclusive holiday resorts than real safari camps, and it’s a bit of a circus around Kariba Town, but you can easily escape all that and find some real gems on the more remote shores or the islands that dot the lake.
For a real authentic experience stay on a traditional houseboat, which can often accommodate surprisingly large groups.
Changa sits on the shores of Lake Kariba and is reached by boat from Kariba Marina. The setting is quiet and remote, with the camp tucked into a private stretch of shoreline. Accommodation is at the luxury end of the scale, with spacious tents that feel closer to high-end safari suites than standard lodges. Everything is private and well run.
Activities cover game drives, walking safaris and boat outings. All three are strong, though I rate the walking particularly highly for the close wildlife encounters. Fishing is available too if you want to spend more time on the water. One of the highlights is the small pool that looks straight down to the lake. There is almost always something to watch from here.
The camp is expensive, but I think the location and overall experience justify it. It is properly remote. On one visit my wife was delayed getting to breakfast because an elephant had wandered between our tent and the dining area. I always found it useful to speak with the owner about the best way to view wildlife on any given day. Depending on recent sightings and weather he’ll tell you whether a boat, a jeep or a walk would give the best results.
One of the reasons I always recommend a visit to Spurwing Island is the journey there, a one-hour boat journey across Lake Kariba, is an adventure in itself. Once you leave the harbour of Kariba Marina you enter the quiet, open waters of the lake and head towards this small island that sits deep in wildlife country. Once you get here you realise you’re in the thick of the bush. The surrounding lake and shoreline teems with life, with wildlife sightings in every direction.
The accommodations are simple, with around forty rooms in a comfortable lodge layout. Standards are solid, with lake views and a pool for downtime. The atmosphere is relaxed rather than high-end, which I think suits the setting perfectly.
Daily activities centre on boat excursions. You can use these for wildlife viewing along the lakeshore or for fishing, which is a major draw on Kariba. Evenings are easy: a drink at the bar, dinner in the main restaurant, most likely a friendly chat with your fellow guests.
My favourite memory is the fishing: we caught enough bream one afternoon to feed the whole lodge with small breaded pieces before dinner. It gives a good sense of what Spurwing offers: straightforward comfort, good access to the lake, and a quiet base for water-based wildlife experiences.
At under $350 per night, Timbavati is a perfect budget option, however, space is often limited in the busier months for the more affordable lodges. A good alternative would be the Klaserie Private Reserve, which is right next to the Timbavati, and is still part of the Greater Kruger reserves, but will likely have more availability throughout the year for a similar budget.
Kambaku is such a special spot for a safari! I love it because the rooms are just incredible – they feature a lot of glass, so you feel directly connected to the wilderness. It’s perfect for finding some peace. The food is also world-class, with amazing wine tastings. It’s good value too – high season rates here are around USD 745 per person per night.
My guests love staying at Cape Town’s 12 Apostles, mostly because it has this incredible location situated between the Atlantic Ocean and Table Mountain. Location aside, it’s often voted one of the best luxury hotels in the city. You’re in for a real treat here.
There are many great lodges in the Sabi Sands reserve, but I can’t think of many with as impressive a location as Dulini, situated in prime position on the Sand River. Its location alone makes it my top choice for Sabi Sands. Rates start at around ZAR 28,990 (USD 1,630) per person per night, which is actually pretty reasonable for Sabi Sands and great value.
My pick for Mala Mala Game Reserve is usually Rattray’s Camp where the game viewing is unrivalled, especially for the awesome populations of all the Big Five. But what I like best is the feeling of exclusivity. You’ll only have four guests per safari vehicle and only eight suites in total, so you’re pretty much on your own with the wildlife. You’ll pay around ZAR 37,200 (USD 2,050) per person per night. For your money you’ll get all the expected amenities of a high-end camp: private plunge pools, his & hers bathrooms, and so on, but for me the solitude is the real cincher.
The Marly is a five-star boutique hotel in Camps Bay – it’s one of my favourite places in Cape Town because of its beachfront location and great amenities. You’ll get a warm welcome here and the on-site spa and surrounding gourmet restaurants and bars make it my top pick for Cape Town. Expect to pay around ZAR 8,150 (USD 460) per night.
Game viewing at Leopard Hills feels truly exclusive – the reserve borders Kruger National Park but has no fences, allowing animals to roam freely. I’ve often seen leopards here, sometimes right near the suites or even from my private deck. Rates are punchy: ZAR 24,900 (USD 1,400) per person per night. But for that you get personal, five-star service, world-class rangers and food that is out of this world – my clients rave about the unique dining experiences like traditional doma dinners, or a private meal under the stars.
My top pick in Sabi Sands is Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge. I have been visiting and sending clients to this lodge for over 25 years, and the feedback on the accommodation and food has always been superb. The rangers and trackers are generational, so in essence they are following in their fathers and grandfathers’ footsteps. You’re almost guaranteed the Big Five, but the rangers and trackers offer so much more, as their knowledge goes so deep.
At ZAR 39,000 (USD 2,190) per person per night, it doesn’t come cheap – but if it fits your budget, it’s money well spent.
Best for: Africa's second biggest land migration
I’d recommend Nxai Pan if you’re looking for somewhere that feels peaceful, remote, and completely removed from the usual safari crowds. You’re on the edge of a fossil pan, looking out over open grasslands and there’s nothing built-up or busy about it. What really sets it apart, though, is the chance to catch the zebra migration. If you’re here between March and late April, you could witness thousands of zebras arriving to drop their young. It's the second-largest land migration in Southern Africa, and it’s a game changer if you hit it right.
The camp is the only permanent lodge in the park, with nine spacious tents, all facing the waterhole. Each one has a viewing deck, a relaxed lounge area, and both indoor and outdoor showers. One of the rooms is set up for families, with an extra twin bedroom. There’s also a plunge pool, and the thatched communal areas help keep things cool and comfortable throughout the year.
The activities are a real highlight. I’d especially recommend the San bushman walk, a fascinating insight into how the San people have traditionally hunted, gathered, and lived in this landscape. You can also take a day trip to Baines’ Baobabs, which are just as impressive today as they were when painted 150 years ago.
Best for: Quirky camp and excellent activities
I’d recommend Jack’s Camp to anyone looking for something completely different. It's not cheap but it's one of the most eccentric camps in Botswana – part vintage safari, part theatrical spectacle, and it’s a real experience just to stay here. The tents are lavish, with a 1940s safari style that somehow blends old-world elegance with a splash of Freddie Mercury flair. Even the bathroom feels like a set piece – the toilet’s practically a throne.
There are ten en-suite tents in total (seven twin, three double), each with indoor and outdoor showers and a huge amount of space. The camp also includes a private museum, drinks tent, pool pavilion, and shop, all laid out in an oasis of comfort in the middle of the Kalahari.
But it's the activities that make this place special. You can ride horses across the pans, walk with Bushmen guides, spend time with habituated meerkats, and sleep out under the stars, something I’d call genuinely life-changing. There are also game drives, birding, and visits to Chapman’s Baobab, one of the largest and oldest trees in Africa.
Best for: mid-range value
Chobe Safari Lodge is one of the longer-established properties in the area, and thanks to a recent refurb, it continues to deliver a great experience. It’s well priced, comfortable, and in a brilliant spot right on the riverbank. The views from the deck are fantastic, and the evening boat cruises are always a highlight. It’s also home to the Sedudu Bar and Restaurant, which I rate as one of the best sundowner spots in Kasane.
The lodge sits just outside the park in Kasane and borders the Chobe River, where four countries – Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe – all meet. It’s a great base for combining Chobe with places like Victoria Falls or the Caprivi Strip. With easy access from three airports and a range of transfer options, it’s also one of the more convenient lodges logistically.
It works really well for families too: relaxed atmosphere, lots of space, and plenty of things to do without feeling overstructured. It's also conveniently located to add on Vic Falls.
Best for: family safaris
If you’re heading to Chobe and want comfort without compromise, I’d recommend Chobe Game Lodge. It’s the only lodge actually inside the national park, which means you’re waking up right where the action is: no long drives to reach the gate. I’ve always found their service a step above anywhere else in the area, and they really go the extra mile. It’s also one of the few high-end lodges I’d happily recommend for families with kids.
With space for up to 90 guests, the lodge is large, but the layout makes it feel far more spacious and relaxed. There are several pools, six viewing decks, two bars, and no fewer than four different dining areas, so you’re never short on places to unwind.
If you’re after a bit more privacy, there are four superior suites with river views. And the wildlife is excellent, especially if you’re into elephants. You’ll often see them right from the lodge.
Best for: Mid-range value for money
If you’re watching your budget but don’t want to compromise on wildlife, this is the camp I’d go for: Rra Dinare offers serious value for money. It’s not top-end luxury, but in my opinion, it delivers an experience that comes surprisingly close – at a much more accessible price. Every time I’ve visited, the wildlife has been phenomenal. I’ve seen wild dogs on every trip, witnessed a lion kill, and once even had a leopard climb down from a tree and fall asleep on the canvas roof of our game vehicle. That kind of moment stays with you.
The camp’s name means “Father Buffalo,” and that’s no accident – when they were building it, buffalo would wander right into camp and even sleep under the bridges and decks. It’s a stylish place, with eight ensuite tents, each well furnished and raised on wooden platforms.
The shared spaces are open and relaxed, with a thatched dining area, a swimming pool, a small curio shop, and raised walkways connecting everything. The concession itself is pristine, and the guiding team knows it inside out – game drives here are a highlight.
Best for: walking safaris
If you’re up for something a bit more adventurous, but still want a high level of comfort, I’d really recommend Beagle Expeditions. It’s a mobile setup, but you wouldn’t guess it from the camp itself. The tents are surprisingly lavish for something that moves with the season, and there’s a real attention to detail in how everything’s put together.
What sets Beagle apart is the walking. This isn’t just a short stroll after breakfast – they offer proper multi-day walking safaris between their two private camps, led by some of the best guides I’ve come across. You’ll cover real ground on foot, and for me, that completely changed how I experienced the Delta. It’s one thing to drive past a leopard – it’s something else entirely to see one while walking.
The camps themselves feel like semi-permanent outposts in the wilderness: comfortable, beautifully run, and set in truly remote areas you’d never get to on a vehicle-based safari.
Best for: Ultra luxury
I’d recommend Jao for anyone who’s willing to spend a bit more for something extra special. The main area is a two-storey wooden structure that looks out over the surrounding floodplains, but it’s what’s inside that really stands out. A spiral staircase wraps around a giraffe skeleton and leads up to a space that’s part museum, part wine cellar – it’s like walking into a mad safari lab, and in my opinion, it’s insanely cool.
The rooms are over-the-top lavish – larger than most apartments – and each one is decorated in its own style, with an old-world safari feel and ornate colonial touches. Outdoor showers, big views, and serious attention to detail all come as standard.
You can explore the area by mokoro, boat, or game drive, and the mix of water and dry activities makes it a flexible option depending on the season.
Best for: High-end style
If you’re looking for a high-end option and don’t mind the price, I’d recommend Vumbura Plains. The rooms here are some of the most impressive I’ve seen anywhere – not just in the Delta. They’re beautifully designed, with an open-plan layout that includes a central shower and wide, 270-degree views over the floodplains. Each suite also has a private deck with a generously sized pool, and the whole setup feels surprisingly homely for something so luxurious.
The lodge is split into two separate satellite camps, each with its own dining and lounge areas. You’ve got year-round water and land activities on offer, and the food is consistently excellent.
The Kalahari is one of my favourite places to visit in Botswana, but it can be hard to find the right camp to fit the budget and experience. There are not very many camps out here, and visitors often confuse areas of the Kalahari with neighboring Makgadikgadi Pans as well as lodges along the Boteti area. Kalahari camps are austere, but they’re surrounded by wildlife and are a great place to see lions and leopards.
Of the few camps out here, my top recommendation is Tau Pan, owned by Kwando Safaris, a great Botswana-based company. Tau Pan is located within the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Situated on its own waterhole it has the best location anywhere in the Kalahari with abundant wildlife sightings – especially lions. But my favourite thing about Tau Pan is the amazing bushman walks offered by the camp, walking with a San bushman and learning about his lifestyle and culture while he shows you how to track wildlife. You can also do night walks and stargazing. It’s a magical place.
A close runner up to Tau Pan is Dinaka, owned by Ker&Downey. It sits just north of the reserve with some interesting biodiversity and brown hyena often sighted. These are both upper range camps, both reached by air.
If the budget doesn’t stretch that far, you’ll find more affordable camps in Ghanzi and around Deception Valley. These are a lot more budget orientated, but the game viewing is nowhere near as good.
I find the best time to visit is between April to August. One can self drive to Ghanzi, but you need to get on a charter flight leaving from Maun to get to Tau Pan and Dinaka.
The African wild dog, also known as painted dogs, are an endangered species with a wild population that has plummeted to just 6,500.
They are found in sporadic and isolated patches across southern and east Africa, but by far their biggest concentration is in my backyard, the Okavango Delta, and watching a pack call and 'rally' before embarking on a hunt is one of the most enthralling safari experiences you can find anywhere in Africa.
Just like its domesticated relatives, the wild dog are extremely social and highly verbal: communicating with each other in clicks and whistles that sound more like birdsong than a dog growling or barking. This helps them achieve impressive feats of coordination as they take down impala, or sometimes even wildebeest. Trust me – you have to see a wildebeest up close to understand how daunting an undertaking this is!
You can see wild dogs throughout the Okavango Delta, but my recommended spot is around the Linyanti area in the north. Some camps are located close to resident packs of wild dogs and you can hear them crying, jostling and playing in the morning and evenings.
The wild dog's main threat is habitat encroachment by agriculture, and farmers who engage hunters to protect their livestock. Thus, well-managed tourism and conservation is an excellent bulwark to help conserve their habitats and this is an experience I'd recommend to anyone.
There’s some good accommodation in South Luangwa but one of my favourites is Chikunto Safari Lodge, located on a horseshoe bend in the Luangwa River near the Mfuwe entrance in the park’s southern edge. What makes this place really stand out is the six-metre high platform with panoramic views over the river and a private tented suite where you can camp out overnight under the stars. When I visited I found it totally breathtaking. It doesn’t come cheap, but I always recommend it for honeymooners or couples looking for something extra special.
Liuwa Plain is home to the second largest wildebeest migration in Africa and, compared to the more famous wildebeest migration in East Africa, this spot is hardly known. Each year in November, with the start of the rainy season, massive herds of blue wildebeest, 45,000 strong, migrate to Liuwa Plains, often mingling with zebras along the way.
Seasoned safari-goers who are tired of the conventional game drive should ditch the 4X4 and get into a canoe for a watery safari in either Lower Zambezi National Park or the Bangweulu Wetlands.
For me there is something timeless about travelling through these swamps. I find it a world away from racing around in a safari jeep. Your guide at the front of the canoe, long pole in hand, propelling you through narrow channels, between the thick reeds and papyrus. Silence, except for slight burbles and gurgles as you glide through the water. It’s one of my all-time highlights.
Begin your Zambian safari by flying into capital Lusaka, spending a few hours exploring its markets and crafts. Transfer from Lusaka to Mfuwe on the edge of South Luangwa National Park. From here, you can spend a couple of days exploring the park’s wildlife, searching for its famed leopards, looking for hippos on the Luangwa River and watching baboons scurry by. Make sure to take a walking safari, where you can get closer to the wildlife and access areas off-limits to vehicles, or a nocturnal game drive to see big cats hunting prey. End your trip back in Lusaka, for your departure.
Fly into Zambia’s capital Lusaka — taking an hour or two to explore its markets — before making the four-hour road journey to the Lower Zambezi Valley. Base yourself in the lodges near the river and get on the water, whether through a leisurely boat cruise or a more adventurous canoe safari. Take a game drive to see elephants, lions, zebras and many more, and enjoy starlit nights in the open. End your safari trip by driving back to Lusaka and your departure.
Fly into Zambia’s capital of Lusaka before making the four-hour journey to Kafue National Park. Kafue is Zambia’s oldest and largest national park and is home to elephants, crocodiles, lions and much more. Spend a couple of days leisurely exploring wildlife on game drives, night safaris and walking trips. From here, travel to the town of Livingstone, where you can try quad biking, bungy jumping and other adventure activities. Spend a day exploring the mighty Victoria Falls. If you’re feeling adventurous, take a dip in the Devil’s Pool on the edge of the waterfall. Depart from Livingstone’s airport.
Explore the best of Zambia’s safari destination on this route. Begin in capital city Lusaka, before flying to Mfuwe airport on the edge of South Luangwa National Park. Here, you can take a walking safari through the African bush to get closer to the wildlife or go on a night drive to see big cats hunting. Continue your wildlife adventure by transferring to the riverfront of the Lower Zambezi, where you can see hippos, elephants, lions and more. Take a boat safari along the Zambezi, or – if you feel adventurous – go canoeing. Travel back to Lusaka for your departure.
A classic seven-day itinerary to two of Zambia's biggest highlights.
Fly into Zambia’s capital city of Lusaka before transferring to South Luangwa National Park. Dubbed one of the world’s greatest wildlife sanctuaries, this is the place to see more than 60 animal species and 400 bird species. Look for the Park’s signature leopards, or take a walking safari through the bush to get closer to the wildlife. After your safari, travel to the awe-inspiring Victoria Falls on the border with Zimbabwe. There are several viewing points, but those looking for an adrenaline rush can try swimming in the Devil’s Pool – right on the edge of the 100m high falls. Head to nearby Livingstone for your departure.
Begin your trip by exploring Lusaka’s markets and museums, before travelling to the Lower Zambezi National Park for boat safaris, canoeing and the chance to see elephants, crocodiles, zebras and many more. Spend a couple of days wildlife watching before transferring the South Luangwa National Park. This wildlife sanctuary is famous for its population of leopards, so take a night safari to try to catch these big cats hunting. Once you’ve had your fill of safaris, travel to Livingstone for adventure activities including bungy jumping and white-water rafting, before spending a couple of days exploring the awesome power of Victoria Falls. Depart from Livingstone.
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