Bhutan
The Himalaya's last Hermit Kingdom
Bhutan offers the kind of Himalayan trekking that few know about. It has all the huge snow-capped peaks you'd expect along the border with Tibet, plus plenty of epic high passes, glittering turquoise glacial lakes and even the occasional snow leopard.
What it doesn't have is Nepal-style crowds or the infrastructure of trekking lodges and tradition of independent trekking. Trekking here is all organised, expedition-style, and costs more than anywhere else in the Himalaya.
Hidden gems in Bhutan
Bhutan
Haa Valley trek
Although not far from Paro and Thimpu, the Haa Valley is one of the least-visited areas of western Bhutan. Indeed, its proximity to the Tibet border meant this region was only unrestricted to trekking as recently as 2001. This is another heavy-going trek which crosses several high passes but rewards you with incredible views over Tibet, Sikkim, and as far as Jomolhari to the north. You won’t see many other trekkers, but you might see occasional yak herders or even smugglers heading across the Tibet border.
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Bhutan
Gangkar Puensum trek
This is one of the most demanding treks in Bhutan and one I only recommend for the hardiest hikers. The route leads to ‘base camp’ of Gangkar Puensum – which at 7,570 metres is the world’s highest unclimbed mountain. The mountain is considered sacred and holds deep significance in our culture, and I see this as more of a pilgrimage than a trek. This is a remote and untouched region, but you’ll pass by occasional yak herders’ huts and tiny traditional villages. It’s a magical trek, but the distance, altitude and the often non-existent trail make it suitable only for experienced trekkers who are properly acclimatised.
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Bhutan
Chorten Trail trek
The Chorten Trail trek is actually a continuation of the more popular Druk Path trek from Paro to Thimphu. On the Chorten Trail, instead of stopping at Thimphu you continue onwards for another five days and head into the Punakha Valley following old trade routes through the mountains. Despite the longer distance and a max elevation of 4,210m at Simkota La, the ascent is gradual and it’s a fairly moderate difficulty hike suitable for most with decent fitness.
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Bhutan
Trans Bhutan Trail (Sherizampa to Drametse section)
The Trans Bhutan Trail (TBT) is a newly-restored trekking route that stretches for 403 km across the country from west to east. The trail follows a 16th century pilgrimage and trading route where travellers would be accommodated in isolated villages barely connected to each other let alone the outside world, establishing a tradition of Bhutanese hospitality that endures to this day. The trail can be completed as a challenging thru-hike, which takes around 36 days, staying at a mixture of campsites and guesthouses. The whole trail is spectacular, but it can be broken up into sections and my favourite stretch is the 12 km hike between Sherizampa to Drametse in Bhutan's eastern Mongar District. Most commercial treks focus on the west of Bhutan around the Tiger's Nest Monastery (Paro Taktsang), Jomolhari and the infamous Snowman trek. Very few people venture east and this part of the country is far less developed for tourists. The village of Drametse has a 16th century temple and is the cultural centre of eastern Bhutan. You'll see herder camps and nomadic communities that are rarely visited by outsiders – if you're lucky you'll be invited in for a steaming cup of tea. You'll pass kids going to school, and farmers or traders making their way from village to village. It's on this section of the trail that you realise how important the original route was to lives and livelihoods in this still highly traditional country.
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Bhutan
Bumdra monastery hike
ExperienceThe trail leads to Bumdra Temple and its surroundings, along the trail, you can also see mountain vistas, alpine meadows and glacial lakes. Heading off the main trail, you can also visit the Taktshang Monastery which is perched on the cliffside and holds spiritual and cultural significance.
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Bhutan
Druk Path trek
The Druk Path trek is easy-going, varied, and is much of a cultural adventure as a hiking one. For these reasons this is the Bhutan trek I usually recommend for casual hikers or people on a limited schedule but who still want to get a few days’ trekking during their visit to Bhutan. It’s a point-to-point trek between Paro and Thimphu – around 50km in distance, spread over four or five days of actual hiking. On the way you visit several monasteries where young monks still live and study. At Phajoding Monastery, I spent a quiet half hour watching the smoke from a cooking fire drift through the prayer flags. (Most itineraries add on a visit to the famed Taktsang Monastery, or Tiger’s Nest, although this isn’t part of the hike itself.) Between the monasteries you get to see all of Bhutan’s natural beauty up close. One day you’re climbing through fragrant pine forests; the next, you’re walking along high ridgelines with vast views of the Himalayas. When I did the trek in spring, the rhododendrons were just starting to bloom. Among Bhutan’s multi-day treks, the Druk Path is probably the most accessible and while it’s a proper hike – expect several hours of walking each day with altitudes rising above 4,000 metres – it’s manageable for most reasonably active travellers. If you enjoy long walks and don’t mind a bit of effort, you’ll be fine. The altitude is the main factor to be aware of; I took it slow and stayed well-hydrated, and had no problems adjusting. The only downside is it’s one of the few Bhutan treks you could call ‘busy’ (although still nothing like the popularity of neighbouring Nepal treks). If you want more solitude, there’s the Dagala Thousand Lakes trek and if you want more of a challenge you can look at the Jomolhari, Laya or even the daunting Snowman treks.
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Bhutan
Snowman (Lunana) trek
ExperienceThe Snowman Trek is widely considered to be one of the hardest treks anywhere on earth, due to its formidable combination of extreme distance, altitude , terrain and cold. If that hasn't put you off, this might be the trek for you! There are actually several routes under the Snowman label, they largely follow the same route but then exit in different valley systems. Expect at least 27 days of trekking (including a few rest days), often for up to eight or nine hours per day. You'll be hiking above 4,000 metres pretty much the entire time, with a max elevation of 5,300 metres. It's essential you take the altitude seriously and acclimatise accordingly. On the way you'll be treated to a kaleidoscope of the very best of Bhutan. You'll see blue sheep and musk deer, and maybe the more elusive animals such as snow leopards, red pandas and the Himalayan black bear. The trek also passes through remote villages where you can learn about the local culture and meet Bhutanese people who live in the area.
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Bhutan
Laya trek
ExperienceSometimes called the 'short' Snowman Trek, this is still not a route to be taken lightly. This trek takes around 13 days to complete, although most tour operators will package it with a couple of nights in Paro and a visit to Taktsang Monastry (Tiger's Nest). You'll need a decent level of physical fitness, will have to acclimatise before you begin hiking – the maximum altitude is 4,900 metres – and will need to prepare for variable weather conditions. Highlights along the way include breathtaking mountain views, alpine lakes, and remote villages showcasing traditional Bhutanese culture. Along the way you can also encounter a variety of wildlife including blue sheep, takins, and various bird species like the Himalayan Monal and the Yellow-billed blue Magpie. If you’re lucky, you could catch a glimpse of the elusive snow leopard.
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Bhutan
Jomolhari trek
I often find myself recommending the Jomolhari trek to visitors as of all the major Bhutan treks, this is probably the best all-rounder. It’s quieter than some of the more accessible routes such as the Druk Path or the Dagala Thousand Lakes, yet is far more manageable than the big beasts like the Snowman of the Trans Bhutan Trail. But for me, its biggest selling point is a heady blend of incredible scenery with close contact cultural interactions along the way. Oh – and the scenery of course. As with all of Bhutan’s great hikes, the high-altitude, rugged landscapes are simply mesmerising. You start in pine forests, move into wide, open yak pastures, skirt glacial rivers, and then – boom – you’re at Jangothang Base Camp, staring up at the mighty Jomolhari itself. Seeing Jomolhari for the first time is something you cannot forget. If you’re looking for a good moderate challenge, I’d say Jomolhari is the one for you. You’ll be hiking at high altitudes and covering long distances, but as long as you’re fit and used to hiking, you’ll be fine.
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Haa Valley trek
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Gangkar Puensum trek
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Chorten Trail trek
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Trans Bhutan Trail (Sherizampa to Drametse section)
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Bumdra monastery hike
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Druk Path trek
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Snowman (Lunana) trek
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Laya trek
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Jomolhari trek
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