Zambia
Discover Zambia, experience Africa
It’s ironic that landlocked Zambia is best known for its waterways. Three great rivers – the Kafue, the Luangwa and the mighty Zambezi – course through Zambia, with the Zambezi ending in the awe-inspiring Victoria Falls on the border with Zimbabwe.
This is a place full of stunning views, whether it’s sunsets reflecting over rivers, roaring waterfalls or leopards lounging in the shade of a tree.
Zambia arrived relatively slowly to the safari scene, overshadowed by the more popular safari destinations in Southern and East Africa. Zambia is one of Africa’s best kept safari secrets, and while not as high-profile Kenya,Tanzania, South Africa or Botswana, those in the know will tell you that this is a magical safari spot and one that’s not plagued by the numbers that crowd the continent’s more famous safari areas.
Birthplace of the walking safari and home of the thundering Victoria Falls, Zambia is the place to be if you want to see swamp-dwelling tree-climbing lions, the planet’s greatest mammal migration, the enigmatic shoebill, the continent’s second-largest wildebeest migration, several endemic species not found anywhere else and of course, a whole lot more.
Visitors can see lions in all of Zambia’s major parks, while hippos gather in groups of 50 or more along riverfronts, honking and feeding. If leopards are more your thing, head to South Luangwa for a night drive safari to experience the nocturnal world of this big cat.
Zambia’s relative lack of visitors means that its infrastructure is less developed than other African countries. Its large size and poor road network can make travelling between destinations a challenge, but visitors are guaranteed a warm welcome when they get there.
Hidden gems in Zambia
South Luangwa National Park
Chikunto Safari Lodge
There’s some good accommodation in South Luangwa but one of my favourites is Chikunto Safari Lodge, located on a horseshoe bend in the Luangwa River near the Mfuwe entrance in the park’s southern edge. What makes this place really stand out is the six-metre high platform with panoramic views over the river and a private tented suite where you can camp out overnight under the stars. When I visited I found it totally breathtaking. It doesn’t come cheap, but I always recommend it for honeymooners or couples looking for something extra special.
Read moreLiuwa Plain National Park
Wildebeest migration without the crowds
Liuwa Plain is home to the second largest wildebeest migration in Africa and, compared to the more famous wildebeest migration in East Africa, this spot is hardly known. Each year in November, with the start of the rainy season, massive herds of blue wildebeest, 45,000 strong, migrate to Liuwa Plains, often mingling with zebras along the way.
Read moreLower Zambezi National Park
Canoe safaris in Lower Zambezi & Bangweulu
Seasoned safari-goers who are tired of the conventional game drive should ditch the 4X4 and get into a canoe for a watery safari in either Lower Zambezi National Park or the Bangweulu Wetlands. For me there is something timeless about travelling through these swamps. I find it a world away from racing around in a safari jeep. Your guide at the front of the canoe, long pole in hand, propelling you through narrow channels, between the thick reeds and papyrus. Silence, except for slight burbles and gurgles as you glide through the water. It’s one of my all-time highlights.
Read moreKasanka National Park
See the world's biggest mammal migration
You’ve heard about the famed wildebeest migration of East Africa, but for the biggest mammal migration on earth you can’t miss the spectacular fruit bats of Kasanka between October and December. I love standing high on the viewing platform overlooking the tiny bat forest at Kasanka and peering into trees that drip with thousands upon thousands of straw coloured fruit bats. As dusk falls, they begin to depart, flocking into the sky and filling the air with their chatter. Millions of bats dart in and out of the trees, like a swarm of overgrown bees, before flying over your head and off to spend the night looking for food. By the time they’re done it's almost too dark to see the ladder down from the hide, so don’t forget to bring a torch! Beyond the bats, Kasanka is home to one of Africa’s rarer antelopes, the shy, secretive, semi-aquatic sitatunga – the park is home to more than 500 of them, making it Africa’s densest and most visible population of sitatunga! The elusive Blue monkey and the little-known Kinda baboon also both call Kasanka home and it’s unlikely you’ll encounter either of these species anywhere else in Southern Africa.
Read moreKafue National Park
Where to see everything in one place
Often overlooked in favour of Zambia’s smaller parks, Kafue is a sleeping giant. One of Africa’s oldest and largest parks and one of its wildest, it’s a place of vast, remote landscapes, spectacular rivers, open plains, woodlands and stunning scenery. If you want to avoid too much domestic flying, Kafue National Park has everything you could want. You can spend at least a week here travelling from camp to camp. This is the only park in Zambia where I have been lucky enough to see both aardvark and pangolin – two very rare safari sightings! The Busanga Plains to the far north of the park are one of Kafue’s highlights. Accessible only during the dry season, I love heading out onto the plains early in the morning, to see puku and red lechwe, in their hundreds, visible in the early morning mist that cloaks the plain just before sunrise. Equally special, but seldom visited are the Nanzhila Plains in the park’s south. This is a superb place for bird watchers. For me, the star of Nanzhila is the beautiful black-cheeked lovebirds, endemic to Zambia and only found in a small area in the southwest of the country. If you have the time and an accommodating safari operator, try to include both the far north and the far south of Kafue into your trip. While Kafue doesn’t have the huge herds of game that can be found in some other Zambia safari parks, what it lacks in density it more than makes up for in diversity. There are at least 161 species of mammal, six cat species, and 22 species of antelope.
Read moreNorth Luangwa National Park
Walking safari in North Luangwa
North Luangwa is remote, hard to reach, and therefore blissfully quiet and crowd-free. A walking safari in North Luangwa is among my absolute favourite things to do anywhere in Zambia. Game drives are not permitted in the majority of the park and access is primarily by walking safari. You’ll leave the vehicle in camp, setting out on foot each day with your guide and an armed scout, to walk among elephants, antelope, zebra and even the occasional predator, always maintaining a safe distance! The last time I set out – always with a seasoned (and armed!) guide in the lead – we saw tracked elephants and antelope rustling in the bush. A word of caution though: this is no armchair safari. Much patience is needed, and of course you’ll need to be reasonably fit to hike in the Zambian heat. If your idea of a safari is racing from place to place in a jeep trying to tick off all the Big Five, this one probably isn’t for you.
Read moreSouth Luangwa National Park
The best place for big cats
If it’s big cats you’re after, look no further than South Luangwa, nicknamed the Valley of the Leopards, with one of the densest populations of leopard anywhere. It's also home to lions and spotted hyena, along with an abundant wild dog population on team canine. Some of my most memorable leopard encounters have happened in South Luangwa. Watching as a leopard, completely unaware of our presence, descended from a tree, only spotting us once she’d reached the ground, was an encounter to remember. Leopards love to drag their kills up into trees for safekeeping, so don’t forget to look up from time to time when you’re out on a drive. My favourite way to see the wildlife in South Luangwa is on a walking safari. On a walking safari, you can see lions, leopards, elephants and learn about the flora of the park. It’s not all about big beasts however; a walking safari will allow you to get up close with a termite mound and learn about Zambia’s ecosystem.
Read moreNorth Luangwa National Park
Low impact walking safaris
Remote Africa Safaris operate two camps for walking safaris in North Luangwa, these are designed to be low impact on the environment, leave minimal trace and are dismantled at the end of every season and rebuilt the following year.
Read moreSouth Luangwa National Park
Kaingo Camp
My pick for South Luangua is probably Shenton Safaris' Kaingo Camp, which has a collection of incredible photographic hides and guides who are specialised in getting guests into the perfect position for great photos, both in the hides and out on drive.
Read moreZambia
Don't miss Zambia’s hidden gems
You'd have a hard time calling anywhere in Zambia "touristy" but if you want to get truly off the beaten path there are some hidden gems to be found. Of all the country's national parks, Luambe, Lukusuzi, West Lunga, Sioma Ngwezi, and Nyika Plateau have wildlife, but are relatively undeveloped in terms of tourist infrastructure and accommodation. Isangano, Lavushi Manda, Lusenga Plain and Mweru Wantipa have little management, very few facilities, and limited wildlife populations. If you're very intrepid or a super keen birder and can find a specialist to make your travel arrangements, they may be worth considering. Lusaka National Park, just outside the capital, opened in 2015 and is the country’s newest park.
Read moreLiuwa Plain National Park
Birding in Liuwa Plain
The birdlife in Liuwa is extraordinary, and it's easy to spend hours watching the various comings and goings of white bellied bustards, crowned cranes, sooty chats, pink pelicans, fish eagles and more. Threatened waterbirds include slaty egrets and whiskered terns – Liuwa is the only breeding ground for these birds in Zambia. This is also a prime destination for migrating species and massive flocks of birds can be seen in the skies above Liuwa between May and July. Keep your eyes open for the Black-winged pratincoles, individually these might not be the most exotic of birds, but trust me: a flock of 100,000 swooping over the plains like a giant swarm of bees is pretty breath-taking! Don’t forget to pack your binoculars for birding at Liuwa.
Read moreBangweulu Wetlands
See the black lechwe in the Bangweulu Wetlands
Set your alarm and wake early to paddle by canoe through the papyrus of the Bangweulu swamps, to the floodplains. Stand on the causeway that runs through the middle of the floodplain, and as the sun comes up you’ll be surrounded by thousands of black lechwe, a type of endangered antelope that is endemic to this part of Zambia. Having come into the water overnight for safety, the lechwe are slowly heading towards the tree line, grazing on the semi aquatic grasses as they go. You need to get up early for this as once the sun has risen the lechwe will have all but disappeared, heading into the tree line where they will spend the day.
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Chikunto Safari Lodge
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Canoe safaris in Lower Zambezi & Bangweulu
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Where to see everything in one place
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Kaingo Camp
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Birding in Liuwa Plain
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Fishing on the Lower Zambezi
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