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Zambia Victorial Falls sunset2
Zambia hippo
Kafue National Park leopard
§ 01

Welcome to Zambia

The insider's travel guide to Zambia

It’s ironic that landlocked Zambia is best known for its waterways. Three great rivers – the Kafue, the Luangwa and the mighty Zambezi – course through Zambia, with the Zambezi ending in the awe-inspiring Victoria Falls on the border with Zimbabwe.

This is a place full of stunning views, whether it’s sunsets reflecting over rivers, roaring waterfalls or leopards lounging in the shade of a tree.

Zambia arrived relatively slowly to the safari scene, overshadowed by the more popular safari destinations in Southern and East Africa. Zambia is one of Africa’s best kept safari secrets, and while not as high-profile Kenya,Tanzania, South Africa or Botswana, those in the know will tell you that this is a magical safari spot and one that’s not plagued by the numbers that crowd the continent’s more famous safari areas.

Birthplace of the walking safari and home of the thundering Victoria Falls, Zambia is the place to be if you want to see swamp-dwelling tree-climbing lions, the planet’s greatest mammal migration, the enigmatic shoebill, the continent’s second-largest wildebeest migration, several endemic species not found anywhere else and of course, a whole lot more.

Visitors can see lions in all of Zambia’s major parks, while hippos gather in groups of 50 or more along riverfronts, honking and feeding. If leopards are more your thing, head to South Luangwa for a night drive safari to experience the nocturnal world of this big cat.

Zambia’s relative lack of visitors means that its infrastructure is less developed than other African countries. Its large size and poor road network can make travelling between destinations a challenge, but visitors are guaranteed a warm welcome when they get there.

§ 03

The Zambia atlas

21 picks Places & Experiences You Won't Find Elsewhere
Where
What

  • There’s some good accommodation in South Luangwa but one of my favourites is Chikunto Safari Lodge, located on a horseshoe bend in the Luangwa River near the Mfuwe entrance in the park’s southern edge. What makes this place really stand out is the six-metre high platform with panoramic views over the river and a private tented suite where you can camp out overnight under the stars. When I visited I found it totally breathtaking. It doesn’t come cheap, but I always recommend it for honeymooners or couples looking for something extra special.

  • Liuwa Plain is home to the second largest wildebeest migration in Africa and, compared to the more famous wildebeest migration in East Africa, this spot is hardly known. Each year in November, with the start of the rainy season, massive herds of blue wildebeest, 45,000 strong, migrate to Liuwa Plains, often mingling with zebras along the way.

  • Seasoned safari-goers who are tired of the conventional game drive should ditch the 4X4 and get into a canoe for a watery safari in either Lower Zambezi National Park or the Bangweulu Wetlands. For me there is something timeless about travelling through these swamps. I find it a world away from racing around in a safari jeep. Your guide at the front of the canoe, long pole in hand, propelling you through narrow channels, between the thick reeds and papyrus. Silence, except for slight burbles and gurgles as you glide through the water. It’s one of my all-time highlights.

  • You’ve heard about the famed wildebeest migration of East Africa, but for the biggest mammal migration on earth you can’t miss the spectacular fruit bats of Kasanka between October and December. I love standing high on the viewing platform overlooking the tiny bat forest at Kasanka and peering into trees that drip with thousands upon thousands of straw coloured fruit bats. As dusk falls, they begin to depart, flocking into the sky and filling the air with their chatter. Millions of bats dart in and out of the trees, like a swarm of overgrown bees, before flying over your head and off to spend the night looking for food. By the time they’re done it's almost too dark to see the ladder down from the hide, so don’t forget to bring a torch! Beyond the bats, Kasanka is home to one of Africa’s rarer antelopes, the shy, secretive, semi-aquatic sitatunga – the park is home to more than 500 of them, making it Africa’s densest and most visible population of sitatunga! The elusive Blue monkey and the little-known Kinda baboon also both call Kasanka home and it’s unlikely you’ll encounter either of these species anywhere else in Southern Africa.

  • Often overlooked in favour of Zambia’s smaller parks, Kafue is a sleeping giant. One of Africa’s oldest and largest parks and one of its wildest, it’s a place of vast, remote landscapes, spectacular rivers, open plains, woodlands and stunning scenery. If you want to avoid too much domestic flying, Kafue National Park has everything you could want. You can spend at least a week here travelling from camp to camp. This is the only park in Zambia where I have been lucky enough to see both aardvark and pangolin – two very rare safari sightings! The Busanga Plains to the far north of the park are one of Kafue’s highlights. Accessible only during the dry season, I love heading out onto the plains early in the morning, to see puku and red lechwe, in their hundreds, visible in the early morning mist that cloaks the plain just before sunrise. Equally special, but seldom visited are the Nanzhila Plains in the park’s south. This is a superb place for bird watchers. For me, the star of Nanzhila is the beautiful black-cheeked lovebirds, endemic to Zambia and only found in a small area in the southwest of the country. If you have the time and an accommodating safari operator, try to include both the far north and the far south of Kafue into your trip. While Kafue doesn’t have the huge herds of game that can be found in some other Zambia safari parks, what it lacks in density it more than makes up for in diversity. There are at least 161 species of mammal, six cat species, and 22 species of antelope.

  • North Luangwa is remote, hard to reach, and therefore blissfully quiet and crowd-free. A walking safari in North Luangwa is among my absolute favourite things to do anywhere in Zambia. Game drives are not permitted in the majority of the park and access is primarily by walking safari. You’ll leave the vehicle in camp, setting out on foot each day with your guide and an armed scout, to walk among elephants, antelope, zebra and even the occasional predator, always maintaining a safe distance! The last time I set out – always with a seasoned (and armed!) guide in the lead – we saw tracked elephants and antelope rustling in the bush. A word of caution though: this is no armchair safari. Much patience is needed, and of course you’ll need to be reasonably fit to hike in the Zambian heat. If your idea of a safari is racing from place to place in a jeep trying to tick off all the Big Five, this one probably isn’t for you.

  • If it’s big cats you’re after, look no further than South Luangwa, nicknamed the Valley of the Leopards, with one of the densest populations of leopard anywhere. It's also home to lions and spotted hyena, along with an abundant wild dog population on team canine. Some of my most memorable leopard encounters have happened in South Luangwa. Watching as a leopard, completely unaware of our presence, descended from a tree, only spotting us once she’d reached the ground, was an encounter to remember. Leopards love to drag their kills up into trees for safekeeping, so don’t forget to look up from time to time when you’re out on a drive. My favourite way to see the wildlife in South Luangwa is on a walking safari. On a walking safari, you can see lions, leopards, elephants and learn about the flora of the park. It’s not all about big beasts however; a walking safari will allow you to get up close with a termite mound and learn about Zambia’s ecosystem.

  • Remote Africa Safaris operate two camps for walking safaris in North Luangwa, these are designed to be low impact on the environment, leave minimal trace and are dismantled at the end of every season and rebuilt the following year.

  • My pick for South Luangua is probably Shenton Safaris' Kaingo Camp, which has a collection of incredible photographic hides and guides who are specialised in getting guests into the perfect position for great photos, both in the hides and out on drive.

  • You'd have a hard time calling anywhere in Zambia "touristy" but if you want to get truly off the beaten path there are some hidden gems to be found. Of all the country's national parks, Luambe, Lukusuzi, West Lunga, Sioma Ngwezi, and Nyika Plateau have wildlife, but are relatively undeveloped in terms of tourist infrastructure and accommodation. Isangano, Lavushi Manda, Lusenga Plain and Mweru Wantipa have little management, very few facilities, and limited wildlife populations. If you're very intrepid or a super keen birder and can find a specialist to make your travel arrangements, they may be worth considering. Lusaka National Park, just outside the capital, opened in 2015 and is the country’s newest park.

  • The birdlife in Liuwa is extraordinary, and it's easy to spend hours watching the various comings and goings of white bellied bustards, crowned cranes, sooty chats, pink pelicans, fish eagles and more. Threatened waterbirds include slaty egrets and whiskered terns – Liuwa is the only breeding ground for these birds in Zambia. This is also a prime destination for migrating species and massive flocks of birds can be seen in the skies above Liuwa between May and July. Keep your eyes open for the Black-winged pratincoles, individually these might not be the most exotic of birds, but trust me: a flock of 100,000 swooping over the plains like a giant swarm of bees is pretty breath-taking! Don’t forget to pack your binoculars for birding at Liuwa.

  • Set your alarm and wake early to paddle by canoe through the papyrus of the Bangweulu swamps, to the floodplains. Stand on the causeway that runs through the middle of the floodplain, and as the sun comes up you’ll be surrounded by thousands of black lechwe, a type of endangered antelope that is endemic to this part of Zambia. Having come into the water overnight for safety, the lechwe are slowly heading towards the tree line, grazing on the semi aquatic grasses as they go. You need to get up early for this as once the sun has risen the lechwe will have all but disappeared, heading into the tree line where they will spend the day.

  • I love strolling with these giants In Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. Escorted by two armed rangers, you’ll walk in single file through the bush, maybe getting hit by branches or scratched by thorns, you’ll sweat and perhaps wonder if you’ll ever see the rhinos. But when you see them, it will all be worthwhile. The tour usually lasts for two hours, but sometimes you get lucky and find them within the first 10 minutes, either way, it’s definitely worth it!

  • Lunar rainbows are formed by the light of the moon rather than the sun and are much fainter and more elusive than a regular rainbow. Victoria Falls is the only place in Africa, and one of only a handful of places in the world, where this incredible natural phenomenon occurs – and something surprisingly few people know about! You can see the lunar rainbow between April and July during the full moon. I find there’s something magical sitting at one of the vantage points and waiting for the moon to rise. They’re far less vibrant than a regular rainbow but lunar rainbows show up clearly in photos taken with a long exposure.

  • I’m definitely no fisherman, but every now and again it’s nice to take a break from the safari jeep and get out on the water. Serious sport anglers come from all over the world to try their hand at the Zambezi’s famous tigerfish, so maybe skip one of the morning or afternoon game drives and try your hand at fishing. Tigerfish are too bony to eat and fishing in the Lower Zambezi National Park is strictly catch and release, but it’s still pretty exhilarating to reel one in, and they put up a heck of a fight! Even if you don’t catch anything, spending a few hours on the water is fantastic, and you’re bound to spot some wildlife on the river banks.

  • Begin your Zambian safari by flying into capital Lusaka, spending a few hours exploring its markets and crafts. Transfer from Lusaka to Mfuwe on the edge of South Luangwa National Park. From here, you can spend a couple of days exploring the park’s wildlife, searching for its famed leopards, looking for hippos on the Luangwa River and watching baboons scurry by. Make sure to take a walking safari, where you can get closer to the wildlife and access areas off-limits to vehicles, or a nocturnal game drive to see big cats hunting prey. End your trip back in Lusaka, for your departure.

  • Fly into Zambia’s capital Lusaka — taking an hour or two to explore its markets — before making the four-hour road journey to the Lower Zambezi Valley. Base yourself in the lodges near the river and get on the water, whether through a leisurely boat cruise or a more adventurous canoe safari. Take a game drive to see elephants, lions, zebras and many more, and enjoy starlit nights in the open. End your safari trip by driving back to Lusaka and your departure.

  • Fly into Zambia’s capital of Lusaka before making the four-hour journey to Kafue National Park. Kafue is Zambia’s oldest and largest national park and is home to elephants, crocodiles, lions and much more. Spend a couple of days leisurely exploring wildlife on game drives, night safaris and walking trips. From here, travel to the town of Livingstone, where you can try quad biking, bungy jumping and other adventure activities. Spend a day exploring the mighty Victoria Falls. If you’re feeling adventurous, take a dip in the Devil’s Pool on the edge of the waterfall. Depart from Livingstone’s airport.

  • Explore the best of Zambia’s safari destination on this route. Begin in capital city Lusaka, before flying to Mfuwe airport on the edge of South Luangwa National Park. Here, you can take a walking safari through the African bush to get closer to the wildlife or go on a night drive to see big cats hunting. Continue your wildlife adventure by transferring to the riverfront of the Lower Zambezi, where you can see hippos, elephants, lions and more. Take a boat safari along the Zambezi, or – if you feel adventurous – go canoeing. Travel back to Lusaka for your departure.

  • A classic seven-day itinerary to two of Zambia's biggest highlights. Fly into Zambia’s capital city of Lusaka before transferring to South Luangwa National Park. Dubbed one of the world’s greatest wildlife sanctuaries, this is the place to see more than 60 animal species and 400 bird species. Look for the Park’s signature leopards, or take a walking safari through the bush to get closer to the wildlife. After your safari, travel to the awe-inspiring Victoria Falls on the border with Zimbabwe. There are several viewing points, but those looking for an adrenaline rush can try swimming in the Devil’s Pool – right on the edge of the 100m high falls. Head to nearby Livingstone for your departure.

  • Begin your trip by exploring Lusaka’s markets and museums, before travelling to the Lower Zambezi National Park for boat safaris, canoeing and the chance to see elephants, crocodiles, zebras and many more. Spend a couple of days wildlife watching before transferring the South Luangwa National Park. This wildlife sanctuary is famous for its population of leopards, so take a night safari to try to catch these big cats hunting. Once you’ve had your fill of safaris, travel to Livingstone for adventure activities including bungy jumping and white-water rafting, before spending a couple of days exploring the awesome power of Victoria Falls. Depart from Livingstone.

  • Chikunto Safari Lodge

    Chikunto Safari Lodge

  • Wildebeest migration without the crowds

    Wildebeest migration without the crowds

  • Canoe safaris in Lower Zambezi & Bangweulu

    Canoe safaris in Lower Zambezi & Bangweulu

  • See the world's biggest mammal migration

    See the world's biggest mammal migration

  • Where to see everything in one place

    Where to see everything in one place

  • Walking safari in North Luangwa

    Walking safari in North Luangwa

  • The best place for big cats

    The best place for big cats

  • Low impact walking safaris

    Low impact walking safaris

  • Kaingo Camp

    Kaingo Camp

  • Don't miss Zambia’s hidden gems

    Don't miss Zambia’s hidden gems

  • Birding in Liuwa Plain

    Birding in Liuwa Plain

  • See the black lechwe in the Bangweulu Wetlands

    See the black lechwe in the Bangweulu Wetlands

  • Walk with rhinos in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park

    Walk with rhinos in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park

  • See a lunar rainbow at Victoria Falls

    See a lunar rainbow at Victoria Falls

  • Fishing on the Lower Zambezi

    Fishing on the Lower Zambezi

  • Leopard spotting in South Luangwa

    Leopard spotting in South Luangwa

  • Lower Zambezi safari

    Lower Zambezi safari

  • Kafue National Park safari and Victoria Falls

    Kafue National Park safari and Victoria Falls

  • South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi safari

    South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi safari

  • South Luangwa and Victoria Falls Safari

    South Luangwa and Victoria Falls Safari

  • Victoria Falls and Zambia’s wildlife

    Victoria Falls and Zambia’s wildlife

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§ 04

Dispatches

Guides & field notes
Where
The best safari in Zambia
Guide

The best safari in Zambia

Sarah Kingdom
Sarah Kingdom

Journey distances and patchy infrastructure can pose a challenge, and it’s easier to fly between parks than drive, which pressures your budget and the environment. The country’s focus is skewed more to high cost/low volume tourism, so accommodation tends to be more on the expensive side, with less options for backpackers and those on a tight budget.

Decolonising African travel—and travel writing
Article

Decolonising African travel—and travel writing

Mazuba Kapambwe
Mazuba Kapambwe

Travel writing in Africa has always been an overwhelmingly white affair. Early accounts from 19th century explorers like Henry Morton Stanley and fiction writers like Joseph Conrad depicted Africa as uncivilised, mysterious and barbaric, reflecting the racist attitudes that underpinned European empire building.

The Best Safaris In Africa
Guide

The Best Safaris In Africa

Stuart Butler
Stuart Butler

There is much more to Africa than safari, but there's no doubt the continent's natural heritage is one of the main draws for international and local tourists alike. For the uninitiated "safari" might mean viewing big land mammals from a 4x4, and while the Big Five game drives remain a cornerstone of the experience, these days there's so much more on offer.

Where To See The Big 5 In Africa
Guide

Where To See The Big 5 In Africa

Stuart Butler
Stuart Butler

The "Big 5" safari beasts – lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard and rhino – were so named because they were the prize targets of colonial-era hunters. Fortunately, modern safari has become a force for wildlife conservation not destruction, and today's safari-goer is more likely to be shooting with a camera than a rifle (aside from the many trophy hunting reserves, which we resolutely do not cover in this guide).

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