The best safaris in Tanzania

The big-ticket park is the 12,000-square-mile Serengeti, home to the famed wildebeest migration and a healthy population of big cats: lions, leopards and cheetahs. During peak season— July and August—when the famous wildebeest river crossings coincide with northern hemisphere summer holidays, the park can be very busy.

There are four main regions in the Serengeti; the Western Corridor, the Seronera Valley, Lobo/Kogatende in the north, and the Southern Plains.

There are several private reserves and conservancies around the Serengeti that offer the same wildlife experience but without the crowds—such as the Grumeti Reserve—but you’ll have to pay top dollar to stay there.

At the heart of the Serengeti lies the Seronera River and surrounding valley. This is a good area for year-round big cats and grazing herbivores.

The northern regions of Kogatende and Lamai, on the banks of the Mara River, are further off the beaten path and are good for catching the famed river crossings during summer months with far fewer tourists than across the border in Kenya's Masai Mara.

Best safari camp for: Quirky mobile tented camp

The quirkiest mobile camp, and absolutely one of my favourites places to stay anywhere in Tanzania, is Bush Rover Migration Camp.

This consists of six double-story standing tents built around the converted Land Rovers used to transport them between different locales. The ground-floor toilet and shower for each unit is actually built into the Land Rover, while the upper floor comprises a canvas bedroom with a balcony from which you can safely watch passing wildlife or stargaze after dark.

The camp sets up in the southern Serengeti over December to March for the calving season, before relocating the Western Corridor to catch the northward migration over June to mid-July, then heading further north, along with the wildebeest, to the Mara River area over August to October.

Best safari lodge for: Calving season

Wildlife photographers, filmmakers and big cat enthusiasts talk in hushed tones about Ndutu Safari Lodge. Founded in 1968 close to the seasonal lake for which it is named, this down-to-earth lodge offers access to a part of the Serengeti-Ngorongoro ecosystem famed for its high densities of carnivores.

Ndutu is an excellent base for catching the wildebeest calving season in February, but large herds of grazers are usually present from December through to April, and there's good cat viewing all year round.

It also remains one of the best value lodges in this part of the world, offering accommodation in 34 simple stone-and-thatch cottages with private verandas, and meals in a convivial thatched restaurant where I’ve often seen genets creep around the rafters at night.

Best safari lodge for: Ultra-exclusive Serengeti experience

Over the course of numerous safaris to the Serengeti over the past 30-odd years, few lodges have blown me away quite as much as Namiri Plains did on my most recent visit.

This ultra-exclusive new lodge forms part of the highly-regarded Asilia chain and offers accommodation in ten spacious stone-and-canvas cottages decorated with local basketwork.

For me, what really makes Namiri Plains special is that it reliably offers high quality cheetah and lion sightings in a corner of the Serengeti that's pleasingly remote from other lodges.

Best safari lodge for: Good mid-market Serengeti option

If you prefer your safari with the comfort and amenities of a lodge, you can't go far wrong with Serena Serengeti Safari Lodge, a solid upper to mid-market option in the Seronera area.

The lodge is inspired by the traditional Tanzanian village with rooms designed as thatched rondavels. Amenities include an infinity pool, a separate bar and an impressive dining room.

Best safari camp for: High-end mobile tented safari

Among the absolute top of my recommendations for mobile camps is Nomad Tanzania's Serengeti Safari Camp.

This top-end camp moves around five times per season to keep up with the constantly changing wildebeest migration. Accommodation is in classic safari-style canvas tents, and the guides are second to none. You'll want to stay around three of four nights here, and the camp is usually within close reach of an airstrip for easy access.

I use Pembazoni Camp to show a different side of the Serengeti, away from the busier central areas. The camp sits in a quiet, little-visited part of the ecosystem, where movement is slower and wildlife encounters feel less orchestrated.

This is a small camp, and that scale matters. It allows for flexibility, particularly when combining vehicle-based exploration with time on foot. Walking here is not about covering distance, but about paying attention to tracks, terrain and behaviour that would be missed from a vehicle.

Accommodation is intentionally low-key. Tents are comfortable and well run, but the camp doesn’t try to compete with the landscape. It works best for travellers who are more interested in how the Serengeti functions than in ticking off familiar scenes.

I recommend Serengeti Green Camp for visitors who are keen to follow the migration, when mobility is key. It’s a seasonal, mobile camp that shifts location to stay close to the herds rather than expecting the wildlife to come to it. Days are shaped by where the herds are, how they’re moving, and what the conditions allow.

Despite being mobile, the camp is well organised and comfortable enough to spend several nights. It’s a good option for travellers who want to be properly inside the Serengeti system, without the sense of staying in a permanent outpost.

Best safari lodge for: Unbeatable Tarangire location

This is my favourite place to stay in Tarangire National Park. Yes, there are smarter and more exclusive alternatives, but none that comes close to Tarangire Safari Lodge when it comes to location.

This clifftop lodge offers a mesmerising view over a long stretch of river where elephants maintain a near-permanent presence. And as if that were not enough, it also has an unbeatable location for early morning game drives on the park’s most rewarding wildlife viewing circuits.

The first lodge to open in Tarangire, way back in 1985, it has been owned and managed by the hands-on Simonson family ever since, and it remains of exceptional value by comparison to almost any other lodge in Tanzania.

The Ngorongoro Crater, the remains of an ancient volcano, forms a vast, self-contained ecosystem spanning 100 square miles of wildlife-packed savannah, swamp and forest.

A descent into the crater features highly on all popular Northern Circuit itineraries. Aside from watching lions and cheetahs stalk the open grasslands, you’ll see flamingos in Lake Magadi and elephants in Lerai Forest.

It’s an early start, setting out at dawn to catch the wildlife at its most active. Access to the crater is through the Loduare Gate, where entry permits and descent fees are required. The crater is a strictly regulated conservation area, and all vehicles must adhere to designated routes and operating hours. Alighting from your vehicle is prohibited other than in designated areas, and there are no walking safaris permitted here. Most game drives leave by mid-morning to avoid the midday heat, but you might find a full-day tour with lunch at Ngoitokitok Springs or other picnic areas.

Insider tip

The gate opens at 6am and you want to be among the first in order to avoid the rush. Where you stay is critical. I break Ngorongoro accommodation into three categories: premium, high-demand lodges within the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and right on the crater rim; lodges within the NCAA but not actually on the rim; and finally there's a wide range of accommodation in nearby Karatu town. In my experience, if staying on the rim itself is too expensive or not available, then somewhere in Karatu is the better option. The value of staying inside the NCAA but not on the rim is limited and does not add significantly to the experience.

You don't always need to head far off the beaten track to get away from the crowds. Little-visited Empakaai, only 90 minutes’ drive from the over-touristed Ngorongoro Crater, is a case in point. The second-largest caldera in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Empakaai is a near-perfect circular crater with a 5-mile diameter and a depth of 1,800ft. The road along the rim offers stunning views across the Rift Valley escarpment to the active volcano Ol Doinyo Lengai.

But the highlight of a visit is the short, steep hike down the forested eastern wall (look out for blue monkeys and buffalos) to the crater floor, which is dominated by a green soda lake that usually hosts large flocks of flamingos.

Hiking is not permitted within the crater itself, due to the risk of becoming lunch for a hungry lion. But the surrounding Ngorongoro Conservation Area of rolling grasslands, dotted with Maasai homesteads and lumbering volcanic peaks, makes fabulous walking safari country.

There are no specific hiking routes here, but a good walking safari specialist will present you with options of varying distances and durations.

Typically you’ll spend a few hours walking to and around the crater rim before arriving at a simple fly camp for your overnight.

Your operator will organise your guide – a Maasai guide ideally – plus meals and transport.

Best safari camp for: Quick access to Ngorongoro Crater

If there's one obvious drawback to Tanzania's most exclusive lodges, it’s that they tend to be priced out of the range of all but the deepest of pockets. So here’s a shout out to Serena, a long-serving East African hotel chain that runs a number of larger lodges which hit a popular sweet spot between comfort and affordability.

Ngorongoro Serena ranks among the very best of these, with its centrally heated rooms and scenic location on the western crater rim.

I often recommend this lodge to serious wildlife enthusiasts, because it is the closest option to the main descent road into the crater, making it particularly well suited to early morning game drives.

Best safari camp for: Rustic camping on the Crater's edge

The relatively chilly highland climate that characterises Ngorongoro Crater’s scenic rim means that most lodges there have a very indoorsy feel. An exception is Sanctuary Ngorongoro Crater Camp, which comprises 10 stilted standing tents set in an atmospheric forest of lichen-draped flat-top acacias.

To be honest, I was a bit worried about the cold when I arrived here, but I needn’t have been: the tents are all equipped with gas heaters and electric blankets, and very snug at night.

The camp’s location is perfect for game drives in the early morning, which is the best time to explore the crater.

Best safari camp for: High-end camp on Ngorongoro Crater edge

The most sumptuous and exclusive lodge overlooking Ngorongoro Crater is also the oldest, having started life in the 1930s as a humble hunting lodge. Today the playful Maasai-meets-Versailles architecture and décor – a knowingly kitsch blend of classical, baroque, African and colonial influences – makes &Beyond Ngorongoro Crater Lodge stand out as one of the most original and popular safari lodges anywhere in East Africa.

What the lodge’s earliest gun-toting colonial patrons would make of all this tomfoolery is anybody’s guess. But – highland mist permitting – they would doubtless approve of the view over the world’s largest volcanic caldera, which remains every bit as spectacular as it was 100 years ago.

Rhino Lodge is a practical choice rather than a romantic one, and that’s exactly why I recommend it. It sits right on the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater, which means early access without a long pre-dawn drive.

The lodge is straightforward and unpretentious. Rooms are warm, solid and designed for rest rather than lingering, which makes sense here. This is a short stop focused on a specific objective: getting into the crater efficiently and without complication.

Best safari lodge for: Top guides and treehouse vibe

I love the upmarket Tarzan experience offered by the 10 luxury treehouse suites that comprise &Beyond's Lake Manyara Tree Lodge.

Set in a luxuriant mahogany forest, this exclusive lodge is also arguably the best base for Lake Manyara safaris, not least because it lies so deep in the park you can explore roads seldom visited by people staying elsewhere.

The lodge’s guides know the park backwards, which greatly increases the odds of locating Manyara’s famous tree-climbing lions.

Best safari lodge for: A convenient base with excellent views

One of my favourite places to stay in all of Tanzania, Best View Lodge is situated at the top of the Rift Valley Escarpment with incredible views in all directions. I’ve sat on the veranda here, gin and tonic in hand, gazing at some life changing sunsets: the vast escarpment wall in one direction, farms below, and Lake Manyara ahead glistening in the evening light.

The lodge is perfectly situated for exploring Lake Manyara National Park, Tarangire National Park, and Ngorongoro Crater all from the same base, which is one of the reasons I recommend it to almost all our guests. And when you’re back from a day of walking safaris and game drives, the staff are wonderfully warm and helpful, the rooms are comfortable and the food is delicious. You can’t really go wrong here, it’s one of the best.

I tend to use Manyara Green Camp when I want people to experience Lake Manyara as more than a drive-through park. The camp is small and lightweight, and that suits the setting. It sits in a quieter part of the park, which allows time to slow down rather than rushing between sightings.

What works well here is the balance between walking, cycling and vehicle-based exploration. Being able to get out on foot or on bikes changes how you read the landscape, especially in a park that’s as varied as Manyara, with forest, groundwater springs and open areas all compressed into a relatively small space.

The camp itself is simple and functional. Tents are comfortable enough without trying to imitate a lodge, and the focus stays firmly on time spent outside. It’s a good place to begin a journey, particularly for travellers who want to ease into safari at a more measured pace.

Tanzania’s main wildlife destinations can all be explored in a 4x4. These days, many also allow guided walking safaris. But Nyerere National Park stands out as the only major Tanzanian reserve where you can do a boat safari. This is a true hidden gem. The palm-lined Rufiji is Tanzania's largest river, and it supports prodigious hippos, some monstrously proportioned crocodiles, and a dazzling array of birds ranging from the majestic African fish eagle to the colourful white-fronted bee-eater.

Boat safaris in Nyerere also come with a good chance of spotting elephants crossing between the banks, giraffes coming down to drink and lions snoozing below riverside trees.

Best safari lodge for: Quiet & remote safari in Nyerere

Probably my favourite lodge in Nyerere National Park, Sand Rivers overlooks a wide, sandy bend in the Rufiji, Tanzania's largest river. The open-fronted stone-and-thatch suites here are simply stunning, and there's also a tempting freeform swimming pool set under a massive baobab tree.

Whether you explore by boat, in a 4x4, or on foot, there's plenty of wildlife to be seen in the area, and the guides are exceptional. Aside from the exceptional river view, an appealing aspect of Sand River is that it stands some distance from any other camp and too deep into the park to be reached on day safaris from outside.

Best safari camp for: Waterside wildlife immersion

Nyerere is Tanzania's largest national park, extending across 30,000-plus square kilometres, and it offers a more exclusive safari experience than the better-known Serengeti.

A great base for exploring it is Roho ya Selous, which means ‘Heart of Selous’ in reference to the park’s former name Selous Game Reserve.

Set on the shore of Lake Nzerakera, Roho ya Selous consists of eight luxury standing tents spaced along a tract of evergreen waterside forest. The lodge stands in the heart of a rewarding wildlife-viewing circuit where you are sure to see plenty of elephant, buffalo and giraffe, and might well get lucky with lion and African wild dog.

A highlight is boat trips on the lake, which is home to large numbers of hippo and plentiful waterbirds.

Best safari lodge for: Views over quiet Ruaha

The view from Jabali Ridge is unforgettable. Set on a rocky hill, this stylish boutique lodge offers sweeping vistas across the vast baobab-studded plains of Ruaha National Park and wide sandy arc of the seasonal Mwagusi River.

The accommodation is every bit as memorable, comprising eight luxurious cottages built into and around the large rounded granite boulders at the hill’s summit. Jabali Ridge is a superb base for game drives in Ruaha, a relatively off-the-beaten-track safari destination that ranks as Tanzania’s second-largest national park and one of the best for carnivores such as lion, leopard, cheetah and African wild dog.

Night drives are often very rewarding and the cuisine is truly outstanding.

Wild and remote Ruaha, Tanzania's largest national park, is home to scattered baobabs, grasslands and rolling hills. Along with Nyerere it's the main stop on Tanzania's 'southern circuit' although it draws a fraction of the visitors as the country's northern hotspots.

Arguably better for wildlife spotting than Nyerere (and more affordable too), Ruaha has a whopping 11 per cent of the world's wild lion population, along with massive herds of elephants and grazers.

There are cheetah, leopards and wild dogs here too, all along with relatively few tourists. You’ll find a mixture of luxury lodges and basic fly-camping operations for walking safaris – the park's speciality.

When it comes to accommodation, Ruaha offers a mixture of luxury lodges and basic fly-camping operations for walking safaris – the park's speciality. For self-drivers, there are simple but affordable self-catering huts at the park headquarters.

Best safari camp for: Classic bush feel

When it comes to that classic bush feel, few safari camps can match Chada. Set in remote and little visited Katavi National Park, this low-footprint camp comprises just six standing tents scattered in a tall acacia glade overlooking a vast floodplain alive with buffalo, hippo and other wildlife.

The tents are very spacious, but simply decorated, with old-school bucket showers and eco-toilets. Chada really comes alive at night: I’ve had elephants nibbling on fallen acacia pods all around my tent here, and almost invariably heard hyenas whooping and lions grunt-roaring across the floodplain.

Mkomazi National Park, in northeastern Tanzania, is scenic and almost entirely devoid of other tourists. It has abundant wildlife but for me the stand-out experience here is visiting the rhino sanctuary which offers the best chance of seeing the critically endangered black rhino anywhere in Tanzania. The rhino here are breeding, and patrols keep them safe from poachers. There is also an African wild dog breeding programme here too.

Best safari camp for: Chimp tracking

Arriving at Greystoke, you could be forgiven for thinking you've washed up on a jungle-swathed Indian Ocean island. This idyllic beach camp stands on Lake Tanganyika, a beautiful inland sea that ranks as the world's longest freshwater body, and reportedly the least polluted.

Greystoke is the perfect base for tracking chimpanzees in Mahale Mountains – on two of my previous visits, these hirsute apes have actually walked through camp – and it also offers dhow trips out onto the lake. In common with Chada and Sand River, Greystoke is owned by Nomad Tanzania, a locally-based company that operates several of the country’s most alluring and exclusive bush camps

Best safari lodge for: barefoot luxury

One of my all time favourites, Mbali Mbali Mahale Lodge sits on a stunning beach on the shores of Lake Tanganyika, on the edge of Mahale Mountains National Park. This place is a real hidden gem, far from the crowds and bustle of northern Tanzania’s honeypots.

The lodge comprises just ten thatched beach tents set on wooden platforms for incredible views over the lake. There's a real sense of wilderness here, but with all the comforts you need, including ensuite showers, and even Wi-Fi! The real highlight, though, is the wildlife. Mahale Mountains National Park is famous for its chimpanzees, but it's not just chimps! Keep your eyes peeled for monkeys, butterflies, and all sorts of birds as you hike through the forest. In the evenings, I like to unwind by the campfire with my fellow guests, listening to the sounds of the wilderness and gazing at the star-studded sky.

Although just 45 minutes from the key transit hub of Arusha, the eponymous national park itself is usually overlooked by tourists heading straight to the more famous Serengeti. This is a shame because Arusha National Park packs in huge scenic and biodiversity into a relatively small area. My favourite activity here is to paddle on the pretty Momella Lakes, canoeing past hippos, buffalo and giraffes. There are usually good close-up views of Mount Meru; weather permitting, you might even sneak a distant view of snow-capped Kilimanjaro.

Best safari lodge for: Unique access to Arusha National Park

The only lodge within Arusha National Park, Hatari is the ideal place to spend a couple of relaxed nights at the start or end of a northern Tanzania safari.

It stands in a picturesque forest, frequented by giraffe, waterbuck and monkeys, at the base of Mount Meru (Africa's fifth highest massif). The German owner-managers Jörg and Marlies Gabriel have invested considerable thought and passion in the characterful décor. They also actively promote a slow food policy based on using organic ingredients sourced from local home gardens.

If you have the energy, I’d recommend organising a guided day walk into Mount Meru’s spectacular semi-collapsed caldera. More sedately, sundowner drinks at Hatari are often capped by views of snow-capped Kilimanjaro.

Best safari camp for: Exploring the Rift Valley

This extraordinary wilderness camp stands on the edge of the blinding white salt flats that enclose caustic Lake Natron.

This starkly beautiful Rift Valley setting is dominated by the brooding presence of Ol Doinyo Lengai, one of the world's most active volcanoes. Tanzanian owner-managers Åke and Nangini Lindstrom have designed the camp to be low impact, and the spacious standing tents are shaded by camouflaged netting that helps keep the interior cool whilst reducing the visual impact.

Lake Natron Camp stands on a Maasai concession, it only employs local Maasai people and it funds several community projects. Within the concession, you’ll find 120,000-year-old fossil human footprints and a spring-fed stream where you can swim while white-lipped tilapias nibble at your dead skin (a sensation I found oddly addictive once I got used to it).