Being a responsible safari tourist

Serengeti – ‘endless plain’ in the Maasai language; endlessly beautiful and in seemingly endless demand by modern tourism.

That’s the Serengeti’s blessing, and its curse. The economic benefits of safari tourism have saved much of the Serengeti from the plough. But left unchecked, tourism is also a growing threat to this delicate ecosystem and the communities and wildlife that it supports.

More than ever, it’s essential that people who want to experience for themselves the wonderful but fragile beauty of this magical place understand the impact that their presence inevitably has, and make wise and responsible choices to safeguard its future.

The greater Serengeti ecosystem stretches from Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park, north to Kenya’s Maasai Mara Reserve. Including other reserves around the margins, the entire area is about the size of Belgium. That’s big, but thanks to human encroachment it’s only 60 per cent of its original size.

The Serengeti today is an island surrounded by a sea of people. And the tide is rising: Tanzania’s population, now 69 million, is projected to grow to 123 million by 2050.

Human encroachment is causing wildlife to be compressed into the core of the ecosystem. This affects such things as grass cover, soils, and beneficial natural fires, and adds to the increasing impact of climate change. Longer droughts and heavy water usage threaten water supplies which in turn affects the ability of grasslands to support large herds of herbivores and normal seasonal movements. The behaviour of wildlife has begun to change, with large herbivores staying active later into dusk and night.

Tourism adds to this grim picture, especially if it grows without guardrails as has already happened in parts of Kenya’s Maasai Mara. Here, over-tourism has caused a significant decline in wildlife which means, ironically, it becomes less attractive to visitors.

The Mara is just a tenth the size of Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park, but it has about double the number of camps and lodges. Overcrowding, overbuilding, poor tourism practices, and poor enforcement of regulations have all contributed to putting stress on wildlife. A pride of lions or a cheetah can attract a traffic jam that spoils a tourist’s day, and stresses the wildlife. You won’t see that in the marketing photos!

In Tanzania, the Serengeti National Park has more space, but there are ever-growing numbers of lodges, camps, vehicles, and people. Visitors complain of congestion in the central Seronera area, but the worst problems are at the world-famous (and heavily-marketed) wildebeest river crossings. These spectacular events draw hundreds of safari vehicles, causing congestion so severe that the wildlife is sometimes forced to less advantageous crossings.

Tragically, and appallingly, there have even been reports of animals being injured or killed when vehicles scramble to follow them.

Despite these concerns, I still believe that a well-managed safari industry can be a force for good in the Serengeti. And as travellers, it falls to us to make the right choices and encourage change with our wallets.

Too many people come to the Serengeti desperate to see lions, elephants, buffalo, leopards and rhinos – the so-called “big five” prize targets of colonial-era game hunters.

This can create perverse incentives for your guides to race around checking off your list. I urge you instead to slow right down. Don’t miss the whole show - small is beautiful too, so look for creatures like chameleons, leopard tortoises, dung beetles. Notice the flowers. The birdlife is spectacular and on display everywhere, worthy of a safari all its own.

The safaris you’ve seen on TV follow months or years of filming. They are the result of patient observation, and this can be your strategy too. Encourage your guide and your group to sit quietly around the wildlife, and observe. There are sounds, textures, smells and stillness to take in.

Look for experiences beyond the basic game drives, which confine you to a 4X4 vehicle all day. You can try walking or horseback safaris that get you well off the beaten path and closer to nature.

Finally, rethink your idea of luxury. Do you really need a five-star hotel out in the savannah? Save the spas and high thread count linen for your next city break. On safari, solitude and absolute immersion in nature is the ultimate luxury.

Choosing a safari company can be bewildering, especially if you care about their ethical credentials. Try looking for operators that emphasise authentic and simpler experiences – basic tented camps are good, extravagant lodges with pools and private hot tubs less so. Remember, water is scarce and supplies have to be flown or driven in.

There are lots of fly-by-night outfits, so look for operators who’ve been in business for several years and have good ratings on reputable review and booking sites. How a company markets itself can be revealing, too. Website photos that show vehicles crowding or getting too close to wildlife are a major red flag.

A locally based company may be a good choice and offer better value, but quality varies widely. Avoid cut-rate operators and freelance guides.

You can also ask how they support conservation efforts, and whether they work with, or donate to, conservation organisations.

The vast majority of guides are experienced professionals, but pressure from guests can lead to rules being ignored and corners cut. Encourage your guide to follow best practice. This means not harassing animals or getting too close to them, staying on roads and tracks and driving at a safe speed. Driving off-road is especially damaging to the ecosystem.

Be the eyes and ears of conservation. Don’t hesitate to point out problems to your safari company and report on public forums.

Travel to the Serengeti peaks from July to September. This is when large herds may be on the move, and the traffic jams follow.

Off-season runs roughly from mid-March to mid-May (long rains), early November to mid-December (short rains) and the last two weeks in January. This is when visitor numbers are low and rates are often lower as well.

In the Serengeti National Park, January-March finds the big wildebeest herds in the southern (Ndutu) section of the park. This is their calving season, and it can be spectacular.

The Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater and Tarangire and Manyara National Parks – all are part of the widely marketed “northern circuit”. Consider splitting your visit with other parks in Tanzania’s “southern circuit”, such as Nyerere, Mikumi and Ruaha National Parks. At 7,800 square miles, Ruaha is actually the largest protected area in Tanzania.

These parks are more remote and harder (and more expensive) to get to. But uncrowded, even in peak times, it’s like exploring the Africa of 50 years ago.

Other than your guide and the staff at your accommodation, there are few real opportunities to meet locals while on safari. You will pass Maasai villages near main roads. Some are open to tourists, with an entry fee and strong expectations you will buy something while you’re there. But it’s an artificial experience that offers little meaningful contact. There are village visits off the beaten path that can be more rewarding, but these usually take a full day.

If you see children along the road waving, don’t ask your driver to stop. If you do meet children, don’t offer money or food. Carry with you instead some pencils, crayons, and notebooks which are valued and useful. Always be respectful and ask for permission when taking photographs.

Those of us who are lucky enough to experience the Serengeti have a real role to play in its protection. When you’re back home, be sure to advocate for responsible tourism and recommend good operators you’ve encountered. Leave honest feedback and public reviews if you witnessed anything that made you uncomfortable. And consider joining Serengeti Watch to stay informed and help us advocate for conservation.

The future of the Serengeti depends on us.