Tanzania
Hiking, migration safaris and spice islands
Tanzania is your quintessential African destination. From vast savannahs playing host to hordes of wildebeest migrating, the majesty of the Serengeti and the snow-capped peaks of Mount Kilimanjaro, Tanzania offers adventures for everybody.
Home to the famed wildebeest migration for most of the year plus a healthy population of chimpanzees, this is a true safari heavyweight. But there's much more to Tanzania than the wildlife.
The country has some of the best mountain trekking in Africa, more than 500 miles of sublime coastline and a rich history as a spice route. And over all this profound beauty, the legendary Maasai people still stand proud.
Hidden gems in Tanzania
Serengeti National Park
Bush Rover Migration Camp
AccommodationThe quirkiest mobile camp, and absolutely one of my favourites places to stay anywhere in Tanzania, is Bush Rover Migration Camp. This consists of six double-story standing tents built around the converted Land Rovers used to transport them between different locales. The ground-floor toilet and shower for each unit is actually built into the Land Rover, while the upper floor comprises a canvas bedroom with a balcony from which you can safely watch passing wildlife or stargaze after dark. The camp sets up in the southern Serengeti over December to March for the calving season, before relocating the Western Corridor to catch the northward migration over June to mid-July, then heading further north, along with the wildebeest, to the Mara River area over August to October.
Read moreMahale Mountains National Park
Greystoke Mahale
AccommodationArriving at Greystoke, you could be forgiven for thinking you've washed up on a jungle-swathed Indian Ocean island. This idyllic beach camp stands on Lake Tanganyika, a beautiful inland sea that ranks as the world's longest freshwater body, and reportedly the least polluted. Greystoke is the perfect base for tracking chimpanzees in Mahale Mountains – on two previous visits, these hirsute apes have actually walked through camp – and it also offers dhow trips out onto the lake. In common with Chada and Sand River, Greystoke is owned by Nomad Tanzania, a locally-based company that operates several of the country’s most alluring and exclusive bush camps
Read moreKatavi National Park
Chada Katavi
AccommodationWhen it comes to that classic bush feel, few safari camps can match Chada. Set in remote and little visited Katavi National Park, this low-footprint camp comprises just six standing tents scattered in a tall acacia glade overlooking a vast floodplain alive with buffalo, hippo and other wildlife. The tents are very spacious, but simply decorated, with old-school bucket showers and eco-toilets. Chada really comes alive at night: I’ve had elephants nibbling on fallen acacia pods all around my tent here, and almost invariably heard hyenas whooping and lions grunt-roaring across the floodplain.
Read moreNyerere National Park
Sand Rivers
AccommodationProbably my favourite lodge in Nyerere National Park, Sand Rivers overlooks a wide, sandy bend in the Rufiji, Tanzania's largest river. The open-fronted stone-and-thatch suites here are simply stunning, and there's also a tempting freeform swimming pool set under a massive baobab tree. Whether you explore by boat, in a 4x4, or on foot, there's plenty of wildlife to be seen in the area, and the guides are exceptional. Aside from the exceptional river view, an appealing aspect of Sand River is that it stands some distance from any other camp and too deep into the park to be reached on day safaris from outside.
Read moreNyerere National Park
Roho ya Selous
AccommodationNyerere is Tanzania's largest national park, extending across 30,000-plus square kilometres, and it offers a more exclusive safari experience than the better-known Serengeti. A great base for exploring it is Roho ya Selous, which means ‘Heart of Selous’ in reference the park’s former name Selous Game Reserve. Set on the shore of Lake Nzerakera, Roho ya Selous consists of eight luxury standing tents spaced along a tract of evergreen waterside forest. The lodge stands in the heart of a rewarding wildlife-viewing circuit where you are sure to see plenty of elephant, buffalo and giraffe, and might well get lucky with lion and African wild dog. A highlight is boat trips on the lake, which is home to large numbers of hippo and plentiful waterbirds.
Read moreRuaha National Park
Jabali Ridge
AccommodationThe view from Jabali Ridge is unforgettable. Set on a rocky hill, this stylish boutique lodge offers sweeping vistas across the vast baobab-studded plains of Ruaha National Park and wide sandy arc of the seasonal Mwagusi River. The accommodation is every bit as memorable, comprising as it does eight luxurious cottages built into and around the large rounded granite boulders at the hill’s summit. Jabali Ridge is a superb base for game drives in Ruaha, a relatively off-the-beaten-track safari destination that ranks as Tanzania’s second-largest national park and one of the best for carnivores such as lion, leopard, cheetah and African wild dog. Night drives are often very rewarding and the cuisine is truly outstanding.
Read moreLake Natron
Lake Natron Camp
AccommodationThis extraordinary wilderness camp stands on the edge of the blinding white salt flats that enclose caustic Lake Natron. This starkly beautiful Rift Valley setting is dominated by the brooding presence of Ol Doinyo Lengai, one of the world's most active volcanoes. Tanzanian owner-managers Åke and Nangini Lindstrom have designed the camp to be low impact, and the spacious standing tents are shaded by camouflaged netting that helps keep the interior cool whilst reducing the visual impact. Lake Natron Camp stands on a Maasai concession, it only employs local Maasai people and it funds several community projects. Within the concession, you’ll find 120,000-year-old fossil human footprints and a spring-fed stream where you can swim while white-lipped tilapias nibble at your dead skin (a sensation I found oddly addictive once I got used to it).
Read moreSerengeti National Park
Ndutu Safari Lodge
AccommodationWildlife photographers, filmmakers and big cat enthusiasts talk in hushed tones about Ndutu Safari Lodge. Founded in 1968 close to the seasonal lake for which it is named, this down-to-earth lodge offers access to a part of the Serengeti-Ngorongoro ecosystem famed for its high densities of carnivores. Ndutu is an excellent base for catching the wildebeest calving season in February, but large herds of grazers are usually present from December through to April, and there's good cat viewing all year round. It also remains one of the best value lodges in this part of the world, offering accommodation in 34 simple stone-and-thatch cottages with private verandas, and meals in a convivial thatched restaurant where I’ve often seen genets creep around the rafters at night.
Read moreSerengeti National Park
Namiri Plains
AccommodationOver the course of numerous safaris to the Serengeti over the past 30-odd years, few lodges have blown me away quite as much as Namiri Plains did on my most recent visit. This ultra-exclusive new lodge forms part of the highly-regarded Asilia chain and offers accommodation in ten spacious stone-and-canvas cottages decorated with local basketwork. For me, what really makes Namiri Plains special is that it reliably offers high quality cheetah and lion sightings in an corner of the Serengeti that's pleasingly remote from other lodges.
Read moreNgorongoro Conservation Area
Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge
AccommodationIf there's one obvious drawback to Tanzania's most exclusive lodges, it’s that they tend to be priced out of the range of all but the deepest of pockets. So here’s a shout out to Serena, a long-serving East African hotel chain that runs a number of larger lodges which hit a popular sweet spot between comfort and affordability. Ngorongoro Serena ranks among the very best of these, with its centrally heated rooms and scenic location on the western crater rim. I often recommend this lodge to serious wildlife enthusiasts, because it is the closest option to the main descent road into the crater, making it particularly well suited to early morning game drives.
Read moreNgorongoro Conservation Area
Ngorongoro Crater Camp
AccommodationThe relatively chilly highland climate that characterises Ngorongoro Crater’s scenic rim means that most lodges there have a very indoorsy feel. An exception is Sanctuary Ngorongoro Crater Camp, which comprises 10 stilted standing tents set in an atmospheric forest of lichen-draped flat-top acacias. To be honest, I was a bit worried about the cold when I arrived here, but I needn’t have been: the tents are all equipped with gas heaters and electric blankets, and very snug at night. The camp’s location is perfect for game drives in the early morning, which is the best time to explore the crater
Read moreNgorongoro Conservation Area
Ngorongoro Crater Lodge
AccommodationThe most sumptuous and exclusive lodge overlooking Ngorongoro Crater is also the oldest, having started life in the 1930s as a humble hunting lodge. Today the playful Maasai-meets-Versailles architecture and décor – a knowingly kitsch blend of classical, baroque, African and colonial influences – makes &Beyond Ngorongoro Crater Lodge stand out as one of the most original and popular safari lodges anywhere in East Africa. What the lodge’s earliest gun-toting colonial patrons would make of all this tomfoolery is anybody’s guess. But – highland mist permitting – they would doubtless approve of the view over the world’s largest volcanic caldera, which remains every bit as spectacular as it was 100 years ago.
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Bush Rover Migration Camp
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Greystoke Mahale
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Chada Katavi
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Sand Rivers
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Roho ya Selous
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Jabali Ridge
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Lake Natron Camp
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Ndutu Safari Lodge
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Namiri Plains
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Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge
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Ngorongoro Crater Camp
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Ngorongoro Crater Lodge
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Tarangire Safari Lodge
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Lake Manyara Tree Lodge
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Hatari Lodge
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Mbali Mbali Mahale Lodge
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Manyara Best View Lodge
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See chimpanzees at Mahale Mountains
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Walking safaris in Ruaha National Park
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Off the beaten track in Nyerere
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Tree-climbing lions at Lake Manyara
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Incredible views at Ngorongoro
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Elephants and baobabs in Tarangire
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See the migration in the Serengeti
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Serena Serengeti Safari Lodge
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Serengeti Safari Camp
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