Ngorongoro Conservation Area
All off Africa in one 'bowl'
The Ngorongoro Crater is the largest intact – and inactive – caldera in the world. Formed more than two million years ago from a huge volcanic explosion, the Crater is now a UNESCO World Heritage site teeming with wildlife.
Visitors can see more than 25,000 animals, including four of the Big Five. It's home to the biggest population of Masai lions in Africa and is where wildebeest come to calve during the great migration.
Hiking is not permitted within the crater itself, due to the risk of becoming lunch for a hungry lion. But the surrounding Ngorongoro Conservation Area of rolling grasslands, dotted with Maasai homesteads and lumbering volcanic peaks, makes fabulous walking country.
Hidden gems in Ngorongoro Conservation Area
Ngorongoro Conservation Area
Rhino Lodge
Rhino Lodge is a practical choice rather than a romantic one, and that’s exactly why I recommend it. It sits right on the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater, which means early access without a long pre-dawn drive. The lodge is straightforward and unpretentious. Rooms are warm, solid and designed for rest rather than lingering, which makes sense here. This is a short stop focused on a specific objective: getting into the crater efficiently and without complication.
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Ngorongoro Conservation Area
For compact game drives & crater views
The other major tourist attraction on Tanzania’s Northern Circuit is the Ngorongoro Crater. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is thought to be the world’s largest intact volcanic caldera that isn’t filled with water. Wildlife numbers fluctuate seasonally, but the crater floor is invariably home to tens of thousands of large mammals, including elephant, lion and buffalo. It is also the most reliable spot on the northern circuit for black rhino. Ngorongoro is a year-round wildlife destination, but it also attracts year-round crowds, especially from mid-morning to mid-afternoon. It stands at the centre of the much larger Ngorongoro Conservation Area, which is a great place for hiking and trekking. There are no accommodations within the crater itself and you have basically three options here: firstly the premium, high-demand lodges that are on the crater rim itself. These select few lodges have an unimpeded 270 degree view of the entire crater. With a good pair of binoculars, you can spot wildlife from your lodge or camp and most rooms have amazing views right from the bedroom. Good picks include Ngorongoro Serena, Ngorongoro Lodge Melia Collection, Crater Lodge by &Beyond, Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge. The added bonus of these camps is that you’re already within the Ngorongoro Conservation Area so you don’t need to pass through the main Loduare gate and can head straight to the nearest trail. But prices are high and availability is tight. The second category is other lodges within the NCAA but not on the crater's edge. There's a few properties there and they are a short drive to the crater. The key thing they lack is the majestic views of the crater. I recommend Lion's Paw, Rhino Lodge, Lemala Ngorongoro, Pakulala, Ngorongoro Tortilis. The third option is to stay in the nearby town of Karatu, between 15-30 mins away from Loduare gate. There’s a wide range of hotels here for pretty much every budget and since you’re outside the conservation area you don’t need to pay concession fees. In my experience, if option one is not viable then option three is the better way to go. The value of staying inside the NCAA but not on the rim is limited and does not add significantly to the experience.
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Ngorongoro Conservation Area
Game drives in Ngorongoro Crater
The Ngorongoro Crater, the remains of an ancient volcano, forms a vast, self-contained ecosystem spanning 100 square miles of wildlife-packed savannah, swamp and forest. A descent into the crater features highly on all popular Northern Circuit itineraries. Aside from watching lions and cheetahs stalk the open grasslands, you’ll see flamingos in Lake Magadi and elephants in Lerai Forest. It’s an early start, setting out at dawn to catch the wildlife at its most active. Access to the crater is through the Loduare Gate, where entry permits and descent fees are required. The crater is a strictly regulated conservation area, and all vehicles must adhere to designated routes and operating hours. Alighting from your vehicle is prohibited other than in designated areas, and there are no walking safaris permitted here. Most game drives leave by mid-morning to avoid the midday heat, but you might find a full-day tour with lunch at Ngoitokitok Springs or other picnic areas. Insider tip The gate opens at 6am and you want to be among the first in order to avoid the rush. Where you stay is critical. I break Ngorongoro accommodation into three categories: premium, high-demand lodges within the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and right on the crater rim; lodges within the NCAA but not actually on the rim; and finally there's a wide range of accommodation in nearby Karatu town. In my experience, if staying on the rim itself is too expensive or not available, then somewhere in Karatu is the better option. The value of staying inside the NCAA but not on the rim is limited and does not add significantly to the experience.
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Ngorongoro Conservation Area
Descend into Empakaai Crater
You don't always need to head far off the beaten track to get away from the crowds. Little-visited Empakaai, only 90 minutes’ drive from the over-touristed Ngorongoro Crater, is a case in point. The second-largest caldera in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Empakaai is a near-perfect circular crater with a 5-mile diameter and a depth of 1,800ft. The road along the rim offers stunning views across the Rift Valley escarpment to the active volcano Ol Doinyo Lengai. But the highlight of a visit is the short, steep hike down the forested eastern wall (look out for blue monkeys and buffalos) to the crater floor, which is dominated by a green soda lake that usually hosts large flocks of flamingos.
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Ngorongoro Conservation Area
Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge
If there's one obvious drawback to Tanzania's most exclusive lodges, it’s that they tend to be priced out of the range of all but the deepest of pockets. So here’s a shout out to Serena, a long-serving East African hotel chain that runs a number of larger lodges which hit a popular sweet spot between comfort and affordability. Ngorongoro Serena ranks among the very best of these, with its centrally heated rooms and scenic location on the western crater rim. I often recommend this lodge to serious wildlife enthusiasts, because it is the closest option to the main descent road into the crater, making it particularly well suited to early morning game drives.
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Ngorongoro Conservation Area
Ngorongoro Crater Camp
The relatively chilly highland climate that characterises Ngorongoro Crater’s scenic rim means that most lodges there have a very indoorsy feel. An exception is Sanctuary Ngorongoro Crater Camp, which comprises 10 stilted standing tents set in an atmospheric forest of lichen-draped flat-top acacias. To be honest, I was a bit worried about the cold when I arrived here, but I needn’t have been: the tents are all equipped with gas heaters and electric blankets, and very snug at night. The camp’s location is perfect for game drives in the early morning, which is the best time to explore the crater.
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Ngorongoro Conservation Area
Ngorongoro Crater Lodge
Best safari camp for: High-end camp on Ngorongoro Crater edge The most sumptuous and exclusive lodge overlooking Ngorongoro Crater is also the oldest, having started life in the 1930s as a humble hunting lodge. Today the playful Maasai-meets-Versailles architecture and décor – a knowingly kitsch blend of classical, baroque, African and colonial influences – makes &Beyond Ngorongoro Crater Lodge stand out as one of the most original and popular safari lodges anywhere in East Africa. What the lodge’s earliest gun-toting colonial patrons would make of all this tomfoolery is anybody’s guess. But – highland mist permitting – they would doubtless approve of the view over the world’s largest volcanic caldera, which remains every bit as spectacular as it was 100 years ago.
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Ngorongoro Conservation Area
Incredible views at Ngorongoro
The other major tourist attraction in the Northern Circuit is the Ngorongoro Crater, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and thought to be the world’s largest inactive, intact volcanic caldera that isn’t filled with water. The crater is home to an estimated 25,000 large animals, including elephants, giraffes, lions and black rhinos. It's a year-round location for wildlife, although the crater gets crowded during peak months. Aside from its wildlife, the wider conservation area is also a great place for hiking and trekking. There are no camps inside the crater, but some perch up on the rim, with incredible views. It’s also possible to stay further out in the wider Ngorongoro Conservation Area and do a day-trip into the crater. Look for accommodation close to the access road to maximise your time.
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Ngorongoro Conservation Area
Ngorongoro Conservation Area hikes
Hiking is not permitted within the crater itself, due to the risk of becoming lunch for a hungry lion. But the surrounding Ngorongoro Conservation Area of rolling grasslands, dotted with Maasai homesteads and lumbering volcanic peaks, makes fabulous walking safari country. There are no specific hiking routes here, but a good walking safari specialist will present you with options of varying distances and durations. Typically you’ll spend a few hours walking to and around the crater rim before arriving at a simple fly camp for your overnight. Your operator will organise your guide – a Maasai guide ideally – plus meals and transport.
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Rhino Lodge
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For compact game drives & crater views
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Game drives in Ngorongoro Crater
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Descend into Empakaai Crater
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Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge
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Ngorongoro Crater Camp
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Ngorongoro Crater Lodge
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Incredible views at Ngorongoro
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Ngorongoro Conservation Area travel companies
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