With almost one third of its land set aside for conservation, a low-density tourism policy that leaves it blissfully crowd-free and the largest free-roaming elephant population on the planet, a Botswana safari is for those in the know.
The Okavango Delta’s unique scenery and abundant big five game understandably draws most of the attention, but Botswana is much more than a one-hit wonder. Its parks and reserves span an impressive range of landscapes, from the surreal stark beauty of the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans to the primaeval wilderness of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve.
The country’s wildlife is rich and varied. In addition to the countless elephants, giraffe, buffalo and hippo that fill the water-rich northern parks, there is the chance to spot less common desert species in the more arid Kalahari regions. It is also home to the continent’s longest zebra migration, a healthy population of lion, leopard, cheetah and wild dog, and over 600 species of birds.
Activities are similarly diverse – adventurous safari-goers can ditch the traditional game-viewer in favour of any mode of transport imaginable: safari by horse-back, boat, mokoro canoe or quad-bike, or simply venture out on foot.
The only drawback is that the luxury of exclusivity comes at a price – the top camps in the private concessions can rival the most expensive in Africa. Fortunately, there are ways to reduce the costs, so even travellers with slimmer wallets can experience one of Africa’s last great wildernesses without breaking the bank.
I'm a photographer, so I need a full seat in the safari vehicle, and my husband is a birder. What are the likely costs and best locations for birding and safari?
Answered by: Rory Sheldon
Off the bat, the Okavango Delta is the must-see destination, especially for a photographer. Prices range across the board: in low season you're looking at an entry point of about USD 400 per person per day, with high season coming in around USD 900.
For photographers and birders, I'd suggest 3 nights in the Linyanti region and 3 nights in the Okavango Delta with Kwando Safaris. They have an excellent discount in the low season, and their camps are the best set up for photographers. They also have indigenous guides on all game vehicles, which makes a huge difference.
You'll read online that the best time for safari is the peak dry season, June to September. That's right for classic big-game viewing, but for photography and birding I'd recommend the green season, January to April: bird life is more active, the scenery is spectacular, and prices are much more affordable in low season. If you visit towards the end of March or in April, you could also add Nxai Pan to see the zebra migration, which is great for photography.
Travelling outside of high season is far cheaper and I think is actually a much nicer time of year to visit.
December to March is the low season – often called the Green Season because of regional rains (that bring the heat down), and April to June is mid-season which is also beautiful.
Don’t necessarily believe what you may read about better game viewing in the high season. Game viewing is great in Botswana year-round.
If you only have five days and a limited budget, it’s a toss-up between visiting Chobe or visiting the Okavango Delta. Chobe will be cheaper, but you’re going to be getting a far more rounded experience in the Delta.
I would suggest the Delta as the better option, and if you hit the right time of year, the pricing can be favourable.
If you have only five days, I would suggest visiting two separate camps in the Okavango. You’ll need to pay for an extra flight, but it’s a good idea to spread a wider net as we never really know where the game viewing is going to be best.
Another option for a five-day trip would be to spend three nights in Chobe, followed by two nights in the Okavango Delta (or vice versa). I recommend the extra night in Chobe rather than the Delta as this gives you a whole day to explore Victoria Falls. For this option you would need to fly from Kasane to an Okavango Camp, and fly from that camp out to Maun for a connection home.
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The Botswana atlas
24 picksPlaces & Experiences You Won't Find Elsewhere
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Makgadikgadi Pans is famous for hosting one of the largest zebra migrations in Africa. Every year, tens of thousands of zebra migrate east-west through the park, between the pans in the east and the Boteti River out west. From high on the riverbank at the latter, I’ve watched zebras swarm down to the water’s edge in a haze of raised dust, dizzying stripes and distinctive zebra barks.
I’ve also seen flamingos away on the eastern pans in flocks so vast that they seem to move as a single entity. And I’ve drawn near to habituated meerkats just outside the park, and seen brown hyenas and aardvarks close to sunset.
Measuring 52,000 square kilometres, I think this vast wilderness is a signature Botswana safari experience. Known for its golden grasslands, salt pans, sand dunes covered in vegetation and wide former river valleys, it’s a soulful experience that’s custom-made for a self-drive safari.
The mammal density and diversity are not quite a match for the northern parks making it less well-suited to first-time safari travellers but for the feel of a true African wilderness, CKGR is tough to beat.
Hugging the park’s northern boundary, the Hainaveld consists of a handful of compact, segregated, privately-owned reserves. The denser habitat means the landscape is less scenic than inside the park, but pumped waterholes concentrate the game in the dry season. Several of the lodges employ local Kalahari bushmen with legendary tracking skills, who will also teach you about their way of life on a guided walk.
Chobe incorporates two distinct regions: Chobe River (close to the Zimbabwe and Zambia borders), famous for its large elephant herds; and Savute (in the west), where a juxtaposition of contrasting habitats and handful of pumped water holes sustain a melting pot of species.
Chobe in general, but especially the riverfront, has one of the highest elephant densities in Africa and close-up sightings are almost guaranteed. Lions and leopards are also possible here, with giraffe, zebra, buffalo, hippo and crocodiles all commonly seen.
Game drives are the order of the day in Savute where wildlife-viewing is good year-round. Savute is known for its predators – I’ve always had luck with lion, leopard and cheetah here, and on my last trip I spent an afternoon watching a highly active den of African wild dogs. As with the rest of Chobe, elephants are everywhere in Savute.
This is a world without fences and, because of the water levels, human settlements are mostly restricted to the Delta’s perimeter, leaving the rest to wildlife.
In the southern part of the Delta, including in Moremi Game Reserve and Khwai Community Concession, expect a mix of luxury tented camps and budget campsites catering mostly to those on self-drive safaris. The deeper you go into the Delta, the more the crowds thin, with entire concessions given over to the exclusive lodges and tented camps that are such a feature of a safari in Botswana. For most of the tourist season, many of these camps and lodges can only be reached by small plane. Out here, I’ve had the wildlife entirely to myself.
Best for: Africa's second biggest land migration
I’d recommend Nxai Pan if you’re looking for somewhere that feels peaceful, remote, and completely removed from the usual safari crowds. You’re on the edge of a fossil pan, looking out over open grasslands and there’s nothing built-up or busy about it. What really sets it apart, though, is the chance to catch the zebra migration. If you’re here between March and late April, you could witness thousands of zebras arriving to drop their young. It's the second-largest land migration in Southern Africa, and it’s a game changer if you hit it right.
The camp is the only permanent lodge in the park, with nine spacious tents, all facing the waterhole. Each one has a viewing deck, a relaxed lounge area, and both indoor and outdoor showers. One of the rooms is set up for families, with an extra twin bedroom. There’s also a plunge pool, and the thatched communal areas help keep things cool and comfortable throughout the year.
The activities are a real highlight. I’d especially recommend the San bushman walk, a fascinating insight into how the San people have traditionally hunted, gathered, and lived in this landscape. You can also take a day trip to Baines’ Baobabs, which are just as impressive today as they were when painted 150 years ago.
Best for: Quirky camp and excellent activities
I’d recommend Jack’s Camp to anyone looking for something completely different. It's not cheap but it's one of the most eccentric camps in Botswana – part vintage safari, part theatrical spectacle, and it’s a real experience just to stay here. The tents are lavish, with a 1940s safari style that somehow blends old-world elegance with a splash of Freddie Mercury flair. Even the bathroom feels like a set piece – the toilet’s practically a throne.
There are ten en-suite tents in total (seven twin, three double), each with indoor and outdoor showers and a huge amount of space. The camp also includes a private museum, drinks tent, pool pavilion, and shop, all laid out in an oasis of comfort in the middle of the Kalahari.
But it's the activities that make this place special. You can ride horses across the pans, walk with Bushmen guides, spend time with habituated meerkats, and sleep out under the stars, something I’d call genuinely life-changing. There are also game drives, birding, and visits to Chapman’s Baobab, one of the largest and oldest trees in Africa.
Best for: mid-range value
Chobe Safari Lodge is one of the longer-established properties in the area, and thanks to a recent refurb, it continues to deliver a great experience. It’s well priced, comfortable, and in a brilliant spot right on the riverbank. The views from the deck are fantastic, and the evening boat cruises are always a highlight. It’s also home to the Sedudu Bar and Restaurant, which I rate as one of the best sundowner spots in Kasane.
The lodge sits just outside the park in Kasane and borders the Chobe River, where four countries – Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe – all meet. It’s a great base for combining Chobe with places like Victoria Falls or the Caprivi Strip. With easy access from three airports and a range of transfer options, it’s also one of the more convenient lodges logistically.
It works really well for families too: relaxed atmosphere, lots of space, and plenty of things to do without feeling overstructured. It's also conveniently located to add on Vic Falls.
Best for: family safaris
If you’re heading to Chobe and want comfort without compromise, I’d recommend Chobe Game Lodge. It’s the only lodge actually inside the national park, which means you’re waking up right where the action is: no long drives to reach the gate. I’ve always found their service a step above anywhere else in the area, and they really go the extra mile. It’s also one of the few high-end lodges I’d happily recommend for families with kids.
With space for up to 90 guests, the lodge is large, but the layout makes it feel far more spacious and relaxed. There are several pools, six viewing decks, two bars, and no fewer than four different dining areas, so you’re never short on places to unwind.
If you’re after a bit more privacy, there are four superior suites with river views. And the wildlife is excellent, especially if you’re into elephants. You’ll often see them right from the lodge.
Best for: Mid-range value for money
If you’re watching your budget but don’t want to compromise on wildlife, this is the camp I’d go for: Rra Dinare offers serious value for money. It’s not top-end luxury, but in my opinion, it delivers an experience that comes surprisingly close – at a much more accessible price. Every time I’ve visited, the wildlife has been phenomenal. I’ve seen wild dogs on every trip, witnessed a lion kill, and once even had a leopard climb down from a tree and fall asleep on the canvas roof of our game vehicle. That kind of moment stays with you.
The camp’s name means “Father Buffalo,” and that’s no accident – when they were building it, buffalo would wander right into camp and even sleep under the bridges and decks. It’s a stylish place, with eight ensuite tents, each well furnished and raised on wooden platforms.
The shared spaces are open and relaxed, with a thatched dining area, a swimming pool, a small curio shop, and raised walkways connecting everything. The concession itself is pristine, and the guiding team knows it inside out – game drives here are a highlight.
Best for: walking safaris
If you’re up for something a bit more adventurous, but still want a high level of comfort, I’d really recommend Beagle Expeditions. It’s a mobile setup, but you wouldn’t guess it from the camp itself. The tents are surprisingly lavish for something that moves with the season, and there’s a real attention to detail in how everything’s put together.
What sets Beagle apart is the walking. This isn’t just a short stroll after breakfast – they offer proper multi-day walking safaris between their two private camps, led by some of the best guides I’ve come across. You’ll cover real ground on foot, and for me, that completely changed how I experienced the Delta. It’s one thing to drive past a leopard – it’s something else entirely to see one while walking.
The camps themselves feel like semi-permanent outposts in the wilderness: comfortable, beautifully run, and set in truly remote areas you’d never get to on a vehicle-based safari.
Best for: Ultra luxury
I’d recommend Jao for anyone who’s willing to spend a bit more for something extra special. The main area is a two-storey wooden structure that looks out over the surrounding floodplains, but it’s what’s inside that really stands out. A spiral staircase wraps around a giraffe skeleton and leads up to a space that’s part museum, part wine cellar – it’s like walking into a mad safari lab, and in my opinion, it’s insanely cool.
The rooms are over-the-top lavish – larger than most apartments – and each one is decorated in its own style, with an old-world safari feel and ornate colonial touches. Outdoor showers, big views, and serious attention to detail all come as standard.
You can explore the area by mokoro, boat, or game drive, and the mix of water and dry activities makes it a flexible option depending on the season.
Best for: High-end style
If you’re looking for a high-end option and don’t mind the price, I’d recommend Vumbura Plains. The rooms here are some of the most impressive I’ve seen anywhere – not just in the Delta. They’re beautifully designed, with an open-plan layout that includes a central shower and wide, 270-degree views over the floodplains. Each suite also has a private deck with a generously sized pool, and the whole setup feels surprisingly homely for something so luxurious.
The lodge is split into two separate satellite camps, each with its own dining and lounge areas. You’ve got year-round water and land activities on offer, and the food is consistently excellent.
The Kalahari is one of my favourite places to visit in Botswana, but it can be hard to find the right camp to fit the budget and experience. There are not very many camps out here, and visitors often confuse areas of the Kalahari with neighboring Makgadikgadi Pans as well as lodges along the Boteti area. Kalahari camps are austere, but they’re surrounded by wildlife and are a great place to see lions and leopards.
Of the few camps out here, my top recommendation is Tau Pan, owned by Kwando Safaris, a great Botswana-based company. Tau Pan is located within the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Situated on its own waterhole it has the best location anywhere in the Kalahari with abundant wildlife sightings – especially lions. But my favourite thing about Tau Pan is the amazing bushman walks offered by the camp, walking with a San bushman and learning about his lifestyle and culture while he shows you how to track wildlife. You can also do night walks and stargazing. It’s a magical place.
A close runner up to Tau Pan is Dinaka, owned by Ker&Downey. It sits just north of the reserve with some interesting biodiversity and brown hyena often sighted. These are both upper range camps, both reached by air.
If the budget doesn’t stretch that far, you’ll find more affordable camps in Ghanzi and around Deception Valley. These are a lot more budget orientated, but the game viewing is nowhere near as good.
I find the best time to visit is between April to August. One can self drive to Ghanzi, but you need to get on a charter flight leaving from Maun to get to Tau Pan and Dinaka.
The African wild dog, also known as painted dogs, are an endangered species with a wild population that has plummeted to just 6,500.
They are found in sporadic and isolated patches across southern and east Africa, but by far their biggest concentration is in my backyard, the Okavango Delta, and watching a pack call and 'rally' before embarking on a hunt is one of the most enthralling safari experiences you can find anywhere in Africa.
Just like its domesticated relatives, the wild dog are extremely social and highly verbal: communicating with each other in clicks and whistles that sound more like birdsong than a dog growling or barking. This helps them achieve impressive feats of coordination as they take down impala, or sometimes even wildebeest. Trust me – you have to see a wildebeest up close to understand how daunting an undertaking this is!
You can see wild dogs throughout the Okavango Delta, but my recommended spot is around the Linyanti area in the north. Some camps are located close to resident packs of wild dogs and you can hear them crying, jostling and playing in the morning and evenings.
The wild dog's main threat is habitat encroachment by agriculture, and farmers who engage hunters to protect their livestock. Thus, well-managed tourism and conservation is an excellent bulwark to help conserve their habitats and this is an experience I'd recommend to anyone.
I’ve always loved Nxai Pan – it’s never busy, my sightings of lion, elephant and cheetah seem perfectly framed by these big horizons, and the baobabs by the salt pans here are a striking presence. With a handful of campsites (including at remote Baines’ Baobabs, a remarkable cluster of seven ancient baobabs (named after explorer and painter, Thomas Baines) and just one upmarket lodge, there’s rarely more than a couple of other vehicles at any sighting.
As well as plenty of elephant, and a good chance of seeing lion and cheetah, Nxai Pan has a couple of other wildlife highlights to draw you here. After the rains, thousands of zebra migrate here from the Chobe and Linyanti rivers after the rains forming part of Africa’s longest zebra migration. And for reasons unknown, Nxai Pan is the only place in Botswana where you can see springbok and impala in the same place.
Although not a big game destination, the broad and meandering Okavango River in the northwest of the country is a birder’s paradise, with over 350 recorded species including several iconic Okavango specialties. It is also popular among anglers, particularly around September, when the receding flood waters concentrate huge shoals of baitfish, attracting a melee of catfish, tiger fish, bream and birds. Activities are mostly by boat or on foot.
Other wildlife is far less common, and you’d be lucky to see much more than a crocodile or hippo in the river’s waters.
Scattered along the northern waterways of the perennial Linyanti and Kwando rivers, and the seasonal Selinda spillway, the camps in these three neighbouring private concessions operate in a similar manner to those inside the Okavango Delta.
Game-viewing is as good as in the Okavango, with predator-tracking a particular specialty of the Kwando camps. Most camps offer game or wildlife drives, mokoro boat trips, and sunset boat excursions.
What you see in these parts depends very much on the time of year you visit. In Linyanti, for example, from May to October, expect to see lots of elephants, while zebras migrate through the area, usually from February to April. At other times, wildlife can be very scarce, although the November-to-April wet season is excellent for birding in all three concessions, with migrants from Europe and North Africa here en masse.
In the far southeastern corner of the country and formerly divided into a number of segregated farms alongside the Limpopo River, NTGR is now one of the largest privately-owned conservation areas in southern Africa. The spectacular landscape, featuring rolling hills, basalt cliffs, ancient riverbeds and towering granite kopjes, is unlike anywhere else in Botswana. In fact, when combined with its impressive portfolio of wildlife, it remains a mystery to me why more people don’t visit this remarkable place.
Expect regular sightings of elephant, giraffe, lion, leopard and cheetah as well as less common species like eland and klipspringer, and over 350 bird species. Ground-level photographic hides, ancient archaeological ruins and a choice of horse-riding, walking or even cycling safaris complete a chocolate box-assortment of activities.
Rising from the barren, sandy plains of the Kalahari in a remote corner of north-western Botswana, these four hills project a certain kind of magic. Sacred to the indigenous San people and reputed to possess mystical powers (as Laurens van der Post found in the 1950s on a visit that formed the centrepiece of his classic The Lost World of the Kalahari), the Tsodilo Hills are best known as one of the world’s finest galleries of ancient rock art. More than 4,500 artworks – mostly paintings, but engravings, too – adorn the rock walls of the range, and some date back thousands of years.
Walking trails lead past the artworks that range in subject matter from whales and penguins (despite Tsodilo Hills being more than 1000 km from the ocean) to lions and human figures. I highly recommend you visit with a local guide to greatly enhance your visit.
Unless you’re self-driving and staying at one of the campsites in the shadow of the Tsodilo Hills, there is no accommodation nearby.
In the far south of Botswana, this transfrontier park spills over into South Africa. The Botswana side of the park receives far fewer visitors than the South African sections across the border.
The scenery here consists of a dense scrubland and some of the loveliest salt-pan scenery anywhere in Botswana. With a number of hills overlooking these pans, they’re spectacular places, especially at sunset, and many of the self-drive campsites take full advantage of these hilltop positions.
Kgalagadi is known for its classic Kalahari wildlife, and aside from the usual oryx (gemsbok), giraffe and wide range of antelope species, I’ve always had luck with the extravagantly horned greater kudu, lion, cheetah and even a fleeting glimpse of meerkats.
The park provides habitat for nearly 300 different bird species, and I was particularly thrilled when the elusive Kalahari scrub robin and the vivid violet-eared waxbill visited my campsite one evening.
Splash Camp is a small camp in the private Kwara Reserve. Operated by Kwando Safaris who have better responsible travel credentials than most: locally based, no greenwashing, and supporting valuable community projects.
Pretty much every Okavango tour itinerary will include a paddle on a traditional mokoro canoe. For something very different, set out on a multi-day, camp-to-camp kayaking expedition through the Delta. Paddle the gentle water spotting the planet's greatest wildlife and camp each night under the stars. Truly unique.
Easily the pick of the mobile camps in Chobe, &Beyond’s tented camp moves around the park almost weekly and captures the spirit of a mobile camp at its best.
The southern extension of the CKGR, Khutse gets very few visitors (except on weekends). I love its remote campsites (I once slept here, 40 km from the nearest person), its classic Kalahari scenery, and its lions, leopards and so much more.
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