Zimbabwe safaris

Mana Pools National Park

Walking safari in Mana Pools National Park

By Anthony Ham

Many travellers fall in love with UNESCO World Heritage-listed Mana Pools National Park, in northern Zimbabwe. That may have something to do with the scenery – a series of pools on the Zambezi River floodplain, an escarpment backdrop, semi-arid plains sprinkled with baobabs. Or the wildlife – all of the major predators (including African wild dog) are present and commonly seen here, with a full suite of prey animals for them to choose from.

But in my experience, what makes Mana Pools especially thrilling is that here you feel like you’re a part of the food chain. That’s because Mana Pools is one of few major parks in Africa where you are free to go walking wherever you want around the park, including without a guide. Canoe explorations are also popular.

Gonarezhou National Park

Scenic Gonarezhou National Park

By Anthony Ham

This is a true hidden gem, down south in Zimbabwe and sharing wildlife with parks just across the borders with Mozambique and South Africa. Gonarezhou sees far fewer visitors than it deserves, possibly because the park was once ravaged by conflict and poaching. Thankfully, those days are long gone. While you have to work a little harder to see animals here than in, say, Hwange or Mana Pools, they’re very much worth it when you do.

In addition to all three big cats and lots of elephants, highlights might include some fascinating antelope varieties – such as nyala, roan, sable and suni – and there are reported to be king cheetah roaming the plains.

But if you weren’t coming here on safari, you might well do so for the scenery alone. Stands of mahogany and acacias provide a special cast to the landscape, while the red cliffs above the Runde River may just be one of Zimbabwe’s most beautiful corners.

Matusadona National Park

Canoe safaris in Matusadona National Park

By Anthony Ham

I’ve never quite understood why Matusadona isn’t world-famous. For one thing, it rises beautifully from the shore of Lake Kariba in the country’s north. Because of its proximity to the water, numerous water-borne activities – canoe and boat trips among them – nicely complement the guided game or wildlife drives.

You can even go on walking safaris here, including one where you track black rhino with the experts. And Matusadona has nothing to envy other Zimbabwean parks when it comes to wildlife – there’s a good chance that you’ll see lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and other charismatic megafauna while you’re here.

If Matusadona has a drawback, it also lies in its proximity to Lake Kariba. The lake is one of Zimbabwe’s most popular resort areas. While that does not directly affect the park itself, you need to venture some distance inside the park (and even away from the lake) to feel like you’ve left the circus behind.

Victoria Falls

Dodging tourists at Victoria Falls

By Anthony Ham

It may be a cliché, but there’s a very good reason why Victoria Falls is one of the most popular places to visit in Africa. Spanning the Zimbabwean and Zambian borders, Mosi-oa-Tunya (‘The Smoke that Thunders’) is indeed a miraculous sight.

By all means dive into the activities on offer here, from kayaking to bungee-jumping. But stay too long and I find the hype that surrounds the experience, especially in the Zimbabwean gateway town of Livingstone, quickly starts to overwhelm.

Once you’ve seen the Falls from every possible angle, I’d suggest you leave the crowds and head for Zambezi National Park. Much of the park is river frontage: stay in a lodge overlooking the mighty Zambezi River. You might see lion, leopard, elephant, giraffe, buffalo and hippo while you’re here. And if you can’t face returning to Victoria Falls, in Zambezi National Park you’re within an hour of the Botswana border and world-class Chobe National Park.

Zimbabwe

Great Zimbabwe

By Anthony Ham

Welcome to one of Africa’s most celebrated archaeological sites, and the best-preserved medieval ruins south of the Sahara, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Great Zimbabwe. The site dates back to the 13th to 15th centuries and is a fascinating add-on to any safari visit. Combine it with a visit to Gonarezhou National Park and Zimbabwe’s Eastern Highlands.

Hwange National Park

Linkwasha Camp

By Anthony Ham

Close to Ngamo Plains, one of the most wildlife-dense areas of Hwange National Park, this uber-luxurious camp faces out onto the surrounding savannah; I’ve seen lions walking along (and sleeping under) the camp’s boardwalks. Elephants often pass by really close, and it’s a good area for African wild dogs. It’s a wonderful place to immerse yourself in Hwange’s special surroundings.

Hwange National Park

Camping at Main Camp

By Anthony Ham

The bungalows here are fine, but the campsites have shade and acceptable ablutions blocks. But the real treat of camping here alongside the park headquarters are the honey badgers that roam around the camping area after dark. Ask at the park office about reserving one of the mobile campsites out in the remote wilds of the park.

Hwange National Park

Nantwich Lodge

By Anthony Ham

Bestselling thriller writer Tony Park owns this lodge out in the park’s west. It’s an excellent place to stay, the safari trails in this part of the park only see a fraction of those elsewhere but with much the same wildlife, and if Tony’s in residence, he’s a fine host and raconteur. He’s also a good friend – ask him about the first time he met and threatened to report me to the park’s authorities…

Mana Pools National Park

Ruckomechi Camp

By Anthony Ham

On a remote private concession and right by the Zambezi River, Ruckomechi gives you the best of all possible worlds. Expect luxury safari tents, impeccable service, fine dining food and wildlife sightings even before you leave the camp.

Gonarezhou National Park

Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge

By Anthony Ham

On stilts high above the Savé River, this superb safari lodge takes full advantage of the park’s scenic landscapes. I could sit on the terrace of my own private terrace for days and not grow tired of the view.

Matusadona National Park

Rhino Safari Camp

By Anthony Ham

Everything you could want in a tented camp while on safari, Rhino Safari Camp removes you from the Lake Kariba crowds. Staying here does what every safari lodge or tented camp should aspire to: you feel like you’re a part of the park’s wild environment while doing so in supreme comfort – if you’re lucky, you’ll hear lions roaring at night from the safety of your own bed.

Zimbabwe

Imire Rhino & Wildlife Conservancy

By Anthony Ham

Not far from Harare, this impressive 10,000-hectare private conservancy is devoted to rhino and elephant conservation. A visit here, or even a spell volunteering, can really deepen your understanding of the conservation challenges Zimbabwe faces, thereby adding considerable depth to your safari.

Zimbabwe

Savé Valley Conservancy

By Anthony Ham

Savé Valley Conservancy is one of the best-run private conservancies in Southern Africa. It’s a great place to visit, the wildlife is exceptional and you can do all the things – walking safaris, night drives, off-road excursions – that aren’t allowed in national parks. Although you won’t see it, part of the conservancy is also a hunting concession – Savé Valley is one of few places in Africa where this complicated conservation mix works. Whatever your view, ask them any questions you want, and visit with an open mind.