Zimbabwe safaris

Hwange National Park

Anthony Ham

Hwange (pronounced wang-ee) is a fabulous park, and is one of my favourites anywhere in Africa.

At the eastern edge of the six-country Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area which is known for having the highest concentration of elephants in Africa, Hwange is very much a part of that heritage: elephants are everywhere.

It’s also known for its lions – it was just outside Hwange that Cecil the Lion was shot by a hunter in 2015, resulting in a firestorm of international publicity. And late in the dry season, especially around October when water is scarce, these two giants – lions and elephants – very often do battle. It’s one of the greatest spectacles I’ve ever witnessed.

It's a vast park with so many different areas to explore; the park’s east is busiest but there are waterholes and sweeping savannah plains all across the park. Wildlife also includes leopard, cheetah and African wild dog, with plenty of plains game, too, such as giraffe, zebra, buffalo and wildebeest. Watch also for greater kudu, gemsbok (oryx), sable and roan antelope.

Mana Pools National Park

Anthony Ham

Many travellers fall in love with UNESCO World Heritage-listed Mana Pools National Park, in northern Zimbabwe. That may have something to do with the scenery – a series of pools on the Zambezi River floodplain, an escarpment backdrop, semi-arid plains sprinkled with baobabs. Or the wildlife – all of the major predators (including African wild dog) are present and commonly seen here, with a full suite of prey animals for them to choose from.

But in my experience, what makes Mana Pools especially thrilling is that here you feel like you’re a part of the food chain. That’s because Mana Pools is one of few major parks in Africa where you are free to go walking wherever you want around the park, including without a guide. Canoe explorations are also popular.

Gonarezhou National Park

Anthony Ham

This is a true hidden gem, down south in Zimbabwe and sharing wildlife with parks just across the borders with Mozambique and South Africa. Gonarezhou sees far fewer visitors than it deserves, possibly because the park was once ravaged by conflict and poaching. Thankfully, those days are long gone. While you have to work a little harder to see animals here than in, say, Hwange or Mana Pools, they’re very much worth it when you do.

In addition to all three big cats and lots of elephants, highlights might include some fascinating antelope varieties – such as nyala, roan, sable and suni – and there are reported to be king cheetah roaming the plains.

But if you weren’t coming here on safari, you might well do so for the scenery alone. Stands of mahogany and acacias provide a special cast to the landscape, while the red cliffs above the Runde River may just be one of Zimbabwe’s most beautiful corners.

Matusadona National Park

Anthony Ham

I’ve never quite understood why Matusadona isn’t world-famous. For one thing, it rises beautifully from the shore of Lake Kariba in the country’s north. Because of its proximity to the water, numerous water-borne activities – canoe and boat trips among them – nicely complement the guided game or wildlife drives.

You can even go on walking safaris here, including one where you track black rhino with the experts. And Matusadona has nothing to envy other Zimbabwean parks when it comes to wildlife – there’s a good chance that you’ll see lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and other charismatic megafauna while you’re here.

If Matusadona has a drawback, it also lies in its proximity to Lake Kariba. The lake is one of Zimbabwe’s most popular resort areas. While that does not directly affect the park itself, you need to venture some distance inside the park (and even away from the lake) to feel like you’ve left the circus behind.

Victoria Falls

Anthony Ham

It may be a cliché, but there’s a very good reason why Victoria Falls is one of the most popular places to visit in Africa. Spanning the Zimbabwean and Zambian borders, Mosi-oa-Tunya (‘The Smoke that Thunders’) is indeed a miraculous sight.

By all means dive into the activities on offer here, from kayaking to bungee-jumping. But stay too long and I find the hype that surrounds the experience, especially in the Zimbabwean gateway town of Livingstone, quickly starts to overwhelm.

Once you’ve seen the Falls from every possible angle, I’d suggest you leave the crowds and head for Zambezi National Park. Much of the park is river frontage: stay in a lodge overlooking the mighty Zambezi River. You might see lion, leopard, elephant, giraffe, buffalo and hippo while you’re here. And if you can’t face returning to Victoria Falls, in Zambezi National Park you’re within an hour of the Botswana border and world-class Chobe National Park.

Great Zimbabwe

Anthony Ham

Welcome to one of Africa’s most celebrated archaeological sites, and the best-preserved medieval ruins south of the Sahara, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Great Zimbabwe. The site dates back to the 13th to 15th centuries and is a fascinating add-on to any safari visit. Combine it with a visit to Gonarezhou National Park and Zimbabwe’s Eastern Highlands.

Lake Kariba

Lake Kariba is the world's largest artificial lake and reservoir and is, for me, one of the most magical places on earth.

The lake was formed following the damming of the Zambezi River in the 60s and now marks the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. The southern Zimbabwean side of the lake forms the edge of the magnificent Matusadona National Park.

The shore is dotted with lodges, most of which are very remote given the lake’s vast size. Kariba is teeming with hippos, crocodiles, elephants and more. The fishing is excellent, and sport fishing for tiger fish is a big deal, with an annual tournament in October.

Some of the lodges are a bit closer to all-inclusive holiday resorts than real safari camps, and it’s a bit of a circus around Kariba Town, but you can easily escape all that and find some real gems on the more remote shores or the islands that dot the lake.

For a real authentic experience stay on a traditional houseboat, which can often accommodate surprisingly large groups.

Linkwasha Camp

Anthony Ham

Close to Ngamo Plains, one of the most wildlife-dense areas of Hwange National Park, this uber-luxurious camp faces out onto the surrounding savannah; I’ve seen lions walking along (and sleeping under) the camp’s boardwalks. Elephants often pass by really close, and it’s a good area for African wild dogs. It’s a wonderful place to immerse yourself in Hwange’s special surroundings.

Camping at Main Camp

Anthony Ham

The bungalows here are fine, but the campsites have shade and acceptable ablutions blocks. But the real treat of camping here alongside the park headquarters are the honey badgers that roam around the camping area after dark. Ask at the park office about reserving one of the mobile campsites out in the remote wilds of the park.

Nantwich Lodge

Anthony Ham

Bestselling thriller writer Tony Park owns this lodge out in the park’s west. It’s an excellent place to stay, the safari trails in this part of the park only see a fraction of those elsewhere but with much the same wildlife, and if Tony’s in residence, he’s a fine host and raconteur. He’s also a good friend – ask him about the first time he met and threatened to report me to the park’s authorities…

Ruckomechi Camp

Anthony Ham

On a remote private concession and right by the Zambezi River, Ruckomechi gives you the best of all possible worlds. Expect luxury safari tents, impeccable service, fine dining food and wildlife sightings even before you leave the camp.

Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge

Anthony Ham

On stilts high above the Savé River, this superb safari lodge takes full advantage of the park’s scenic landscapes. I could sit on the terrace of my own private terrace for days and not grow tired of the view.

Rhino Safari Camp

Anthony Ham

Everything you could want in a tented camp while on safari, Rhino Safari Camp removes you from the Lake Kariba crowds. Staying here does what every safari lodge or tented camp should aspire to: you feel like you’re a part of the park’s wild environment while doing so in supreme comfort – if you’re lucky, you’ll hear lions roaring at night from the safety of your own bed.

Imire Rhino & Wildlife Conservancy

Anthony Ham

Not far from Harare, this impressive 10,000-hectare private conservancy is devoted to rhino and elephant conservation. A visit here, or even a spell volunteering, can really deepen your understanding of the conservation challenges Zimbabwe faces, thereby adding considerable depth to your safari.

Savé Valley Conservancy

Anthony Ham

Savé Valley Conservancy is one of the best-run private conservancies in Southern Africa. It’s a great place to visit, the wildlife is exceptional and you can do all the things – walking safaris, night drives, off-road excursions – that aren’t allowed in national parks. Although you won’t see it, part of the conservancy is also a hunting concession – Savé Valley is one of few places in Africa where this complicated conservation mix works. Whatever your view, ask them any questions you want, and visit with an open mind.

Changa Safari Camp

Changa sits on the shores of Lake Kariba and is reached by boat from Kariba Marina. The setting is quiet and remote, with the camp tucked into a private stretch of shoreline. Accommodation is at the luxury end of the scale, with spacious tents that feel closer to high-end safari suites than standard lodges. Everything is private and well run.

Activities cover game drives, walking safaris and boat outings. All three are strong, though I rate the walking particularly highly for the close wildlife encounters. Fishing is available too if you want to spend more time on the water. One of the highlights is the small pool that looks straight down to the lake. There is almost always something to watch from here.

The camp is expensive, but I think the location and overall experience justify it. It is properly remote. On one visit my wife was delayed getting to breakfast because an elephant had wandered between our tent and the dining area. I always found it useful to speak with the owner about the best way to view wildlife on any given day. Depending on recent sightings and weather he’ll tell you whether a boat, a jeep or a walk would give the best results.

Spurwing Island

One of the reasons I always recommend a visit to Spurwing Island is the journey there, a one-hour boat journey across Lake Kariba, is an adventure in itself. Once you leave the harbour of Kariba Marina you enter the quiet, open waters of the lake and head towards this small island that sits deep in wildlife country. Once you get here you realise you’re in the thick of the bush. The surrounding lake and shoreline teems with life, with wildlife sightings in every direction.

The accommodations are simple, with around forty rooms in a comfortable lodge layout. Standards are solid, with lake views and a pool for downtime. The atmosphere is relaxed rather than high-end, which I think suits the setting perfectly.

Daily activities centre on boat excursions. You can use these for wildlife viewing along the lakeshore or for fishing, which is a major draw on Kariba. Evenings are easy: a drink at the bar, dinner in the main restaurant, most likely a friendly chat with your fellow guests.

My favourite memory is the fishing: we caught enough bream one afternoon to feed the whole lodge with small breaded pieces before dinner. It gives a good sense of what Spurwing offers: straightforward comfort, good access to the lake, and a quiet base for water-based wildlife experiences.