Walking Holidays In The Dolomites

Another good alternative to the busier French and Swiss Alps, I would argue the Italian Dolomites, in Italy’s far northeast, are the most beautiful section of the Alps. This is my top choice for a walking holiday that combines photogenic mountains with superb cuisine.

Soaring limestone shards pierce the sky in jagged pinnacles and ridges reminiscent of the mountains of Patagonia, set ablaze by the setting sun in the characteristic enrosadira, or ‘alpenglow’.

The Dolomites have a character distinct from its neighbouring ranges in both geological, cultural and linguistic terms. Bunkers, trenches and other military remains encountered on high-level trails such as the Kaiserjäger are reminders of clashes along the Austrian front during the First World War, and while in some valleys German rather than Italian predominates, you’ll also hear Ladin, derived from ancient Latin, spoken here and there.

Throughout, well-kept trails access high meadows and passes, limpid Alpine lakes, dense pine forests and lofty villages. All-in-all, the Dolomites are easily one of my favourite places for a walking holiday in Europe.

Highlights

Tre Cime de Lavaredo (Three Peaks of Lavaredo) comprise possibly the most-photographed scene in the region, with ‘Queen of the Dolomites’ Marmolada a spectacular second. Food is a treat, blending Austrian and Italian influences – the Alta Badia valley in particular is awash with superb cuisine, and its mountain huts (really more or less rustic restaurants on high plateaux) devise special menus each summer to showcase top dishes at bargain prices.

Need to know

Airports at Venice, Verona, Treviso and Innsbruck provide access to the Dolomites. Trains and buses provide reliable, cheap and regular transport across the region, including up to trailheads on road passes, and mountain refuges – usually open mid-June to mid-September – offer simple but comfortable overnight stays on long-distance trails. Peak holiday season in Italy is mid-August, when accommodation is often booked out.

Top walking holidays

Six waymarked Alta Via (High Route) trails wind roughly north-south through the Dolomites; 120km Alta Via 1 (AV1) is the easiest and most popular, suitable for beginners to long-distance Alpine treks yet showcasing the diverse scenery of the region. At 160km, AV2 is more technical and strenuous, while the other four are more challenging, with extended sections of via ferrata (climbing routes with permanent cables and ladders).