Lares & the Short Inca Trail combination trek

Cusco

Capital of the Inca
Once the capital of the mighty Inca Empire, Cusco is today the beating heart of Peru's tourism industry...
Lares Valley

...
Machu Picchu

Peru's archaeological rock star
Machu Picchu is the top attraction in Peru and, in 2007, was voted one of the New Seven Wonders of the World...
Cusco

Capital of the Inca
Once the capital of the mighty Inca Empire, Cusco is today the beating heart of Peru's tourism industry...

If you ask me, combining the Lares Trail with the Short Inca Trail (also known as the KM104 trek or the two-day Inca Trail) is the ultimate Machu Picchu hiking hack.

The full Inca Trail deserves it fame as one of the world's best treks, but there’s no question that it’s permanently busy, expensive and hard to secure permits. (There are workers' rights concerns to be aware of, too.)

Personally, I find the Lares trek experience to be much more enjoyable and relaxed. My favourite Lares route goes via a remote village called Chaullacocha where you can stay with a local family and really get to know the area’s fascinating traditions and livelihoods. You don’t get any of that on the Inca Trail.

The one thing you do get on the Inca Trail is the life-changing experience of arriving at Machu Picchu on foot. Approaching the ruins via the Sun Gate and entering under your own steam is something you can only do on the Inca Trail.

So, my ultimate Peru trekking hack is to get the best of both worlds: do the Lares trek – specifically the little-known route shown below – and then combine it with the Short Inca Trail at KM104 for a grand finale at Machu Picchu.

As an added bonus, the Short Inca Trail runs on a totally separate permit system with much better availability and, unlike on the full four day Inca Trail, you’ll arrive in the afternoon just as the day trip crowds are beginning to thin out. You then have a comfortable night in a hotel in Aguas Calientes before returning refreshed the next morning for a guided tour of the ruins.

The only downside I can think of to this combination is that you’ll visit the Lares hot springs at the start of the trek rather than the end, as per the classic Lares route. That said, there are hot springs in Aguas Calientes (hence the name!) where you can soak your weary toes.

Good to know

Difficulty: Moderate
Distance: Approx 30km
Duration: Four days (three days trekking)
Accommodation: Camping and homestay

Key information

Destinations	Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu
Activity	Adventure, Hiking & Trekking, Active, Walking, Nature & Wildlife, Culture, Responsible Travel, Slow Travel
Physical Level	Moderate
Season	April - October

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Lares Trek & the Short Inca Trail

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Lares & the Short Inca Trail combination trek itinerary

Cusco – Lares Hot Springs – Maranpaqui

Day 1 in Cusco

Walking Distance: 6 km

Walking Time: Approximately 3.5–4 hours

Depart Cusco in the morning and drive approximately four hours to reach the Lares hot springs. Have lunch at the springs before beginning the ascent towards Maranpaqui. Continue trekking until you reach the campsite at Totoraqocha, located at 3,900 metres (12,795 feet), where you will spend the night.

Maranpaqui – Chaullacocha

Day 2 in Lares Valley

Walking Distance: 12 km

Walking Time: Approximately 6–7 hours

Set off early from your campsite and make a steady uphill climb to the Colquepata Pass, 4,450 metres (14,600 feet). After crossing the pass, follow the ridge, noticing several striking glacial lakes along the way.

Later, descend towards the village of Chaullacocha at 4,200 metres (13,780 feet). Arrive by late afternoon, and spend time in this traditional community that is largely untouched by tourism. Depending on your schedule, you may meet community members, learn about traditional weaving practices, or make accompanied visits to the local school (during term time).

Camp overnight in the village. For those interested, a homestay with a local Andean family may be possible and should be arranged in advance.

Chaullacocha – Ollantaytambo – Km 104 – Wiñay Wayna – Machu Picchu

Day 3 in Machu Picchu

Walking Distance: 13 km

Walking Time: Approximately 7 hours

Begin early at around 5:00 am with a two-hour drive from Chaullacocha to Ollantaytambo. Board a train in Ollantaytambo for the scenic two-hour journey to Km 104, the starting point of the Short Inca Trail. Setting out you’ll cross the Vilcanota River, stopping first at the archaeological site of Chachabamba before hiking upwards approximately 8 km (about four hours). The trail is well-maintained but includes numerous staircases and steady ascents, requiring a good fitness level. Reach Wiñay Wayna ("Forever Young") at 2,680 metres (8,792 feet), widely regarded as one of the most impressive archaeological complexes along the Inca Trail, featuring terraces, religious and urban sections.

From Wiñay Wayna, continue hiking another hour to Inti Punku, the "Sun Gate" at 2,730 metres (8,956 feet), with the classic view of Machu Picchu. Descend from Inti Punku towards Machu Picchu, then take the bus down to the nearby town of Aguas Calientes. Spend the night in a hotel in Aguas Calientes.

Aguas Calientes – Machu Picchu – Cusco

Day 4 in Cusco

Start early, taking the bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu in time to watch the sunrise over the site. Your visit will include a guided walking tour lasting two to three hours. There are a few optional day hikes you can try, Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain, but you’ll need to secure your permits in advance.

After your tour of the ruins, return to Ollantaytambo or Cusco by train from Aguas Calientes.

Need to know

Although an emergency horse is usually included, if you suspect you may have difficulties, it’s a good idea to request an additional emergency horse for your use (at an extra charge).

Most organised trekking tours do not include a sleeping bag, although they can be rented.

You’ll want to bring some extra cash with you to tip the support staff on your last night of trekking, as well as to purchase weavings in the communities.

Bring small gifts to pass on to local children in the communities you visit.

Ask trekking agencies if they offer pack llamas rather than mules. Llamas have less impact on trails and the environment.

FAQs

Question

Permits for Lares & KM104?

Are permits required for the Lares and Short Inca Trail trek?

Asked by Vince

Answer

No permits are required for the Lares trek but you do need a permit for the KM104 trek. The good news is this permit system is totally separate to the full Inca Trail permit system, and availability is rarely a problem.

Answered by Sarah Confer

Lares & the Short Inca Trail combination trek