Ausangate 'Seven Lagoons' trek
The best Ausangate trek itinerary
Of all the big hikes in the Machu Picchu/Cusco region, the Ausangate trek is by far the quietest. Although it’s often grouped with the famous Inca Trail alternative treks, the Ausangate trek is actually 100km in the opposite direction to Machu Picchu, which immediately filters out a lot of the crowds and makes this what I call a ‘trekker’s trek.’
This five day itinerary loops anticlockwise around the colossal 6,384m Ausangate mountain and it has long been a favourite of mine. The scenery of Alpine views and crystal lakes is unspeakably beautiful and the hike is a serious challenge. Although you catch glimpses of Ausangate mountain early on, seeing the mountain face to face on the second pass takes my breath away every time.
There’s one quirk to know about the classic Ausangate trek itinerary offered by most operators, which is that they usually finish at Vinicunca, the colourful ‘Rainbow Mountain’ made famous by countless Instagram accounts and crowded by day tours from Cusco (it’s currently the region’s #2 attraction after Machu Picchu!)
There’s nothing really wrong with this, but I much prefer the following Ausangate itinerary, which starts at Vinicunca rather than ends there. This means you reach the viewpoint just as the last of the day trippers are leaving, giving you an unobstructed view of the colourful striations, before leaving the tourists behind, and heading into the Andean wilderness.
Good to know
- Difficulty: Challenging
- Distance: Approx. 96km (60mi)
- Duration: Four to five days
- Max elevation: 5,200 metres
- Accommodation: Camping or lodges
Key information
| Destinations | Sacred Valley |
|---|---|
| Activity | Adventure, Backpacking, Trekking, Active, Walking, Camping, Nature & Wildlife, Responsible Travel, Slow Travel |
| Physical Level | Strenuous |
 Season |
May - September |
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5 days From $1,629 ppAusangate 'Seven Lagoons' trek itinerary
Chillihuani – Vinincunca – Yanacocha
Day 1 in Chillihuani
Distance: 8.5km
Hiking time: 5 hours
The trailhead at Chillihuani is a scenic, three-hour drive from Cusco. Aim to arrive by 10am. From here you start climbing immediately, a challenging two hour ascent until you reach Vinicunca Pass (5,040 m / 16,535 ft), where you’re rewarded with spectacular views of Rainbow Mountain. If the weather is clear, you’ll get good views of Ausangate mountain.
From Vinicunca it’s another 30 minutes skirting the mountain to the Red Valley viewpoint with good views over the colourful mountain. Return to the main trail and continue toward the Yanacocha campsite (4,800 m / 15,748 ft), with great views of Ausangate along the way.
After an hour you’ll arrive at the Yanacocha campsite in time for lunch. Rest here for the afternoon and acclimatise with some easy strolls around the campsite before settling in for your first night.
Yanacocha – Pucacocha – Ausangatecocha
Day 2 in Yanacocha
Distance: 14 km
Hiking time: 7-8 hours
Start early and begin your ascent to the Warmisaya Pass (5,000m / 16,404 ft). From here you descend towards the village of Anantapata where you might spot llamas, alpacas, and possibly vicuñas. Gradually ascend for two hours to Surimani Pass (4,950m / 16,240 ft), which gives you stunning views of Ausangate mountain.
Take a break and enjoy the view before descending for around two hours to Hatun Pucacocha (4,650m / 15,252 ft), a large lake bordering Ausangate. Stop here for lunch.
After lunch, gradually climb for another two hours to cross Apacheta Pass (4,900m / 16,076 ft) before descending to camp at Ausangatecocha (4,680m / 15,350 ft).
Ausangatecocha – Paso Palomani – Jampapampa
Day 3 in Ausangatecocha
Distance: 12 km
Hiking time: 6 hours
The route climbs steeply to the highest point of the trek, Palomani Pass (5,150 m), a panoramic viewpoint with potential sightings of condors and views of both Ausangate and Hatun Punta. The path then descends over rocky terrain to Pampacancha (4,540 m), a small settlement where you can stop for lunch. From here, the trail climbs again for around 1.5 hours to Jampapampa (4,630 m), a grassy, open basin where you’ll make camp.
Jampapampa to Otorongococha via Jampa Pass and Seven Lagoons
Day 4 in Jampapampa
Distance: 10 km
Hiking time: Five hours
Climb around three hours to Jampa Pass (5,080 m), offering panoramic views of Mariposa Mountain and the eastern flanks of Ausangate. Near the pass, there’s a viewpoint overlooking the Seven Lagoons, a group of high-altitude lakes in various hues of turquoise and blue.
After lunch, descend to Otorongococha (4,670 m), a peaceful campsite beside one of the lesser-known lakes. You can explore small trails leading to viewpoints over nearby lakes and glacier-fed cirques.
Otorongococha to Pacchanta via the Seven Lagoons
Day 5 in Pacchanta
Distance: approx. eight km
Hiking time: approx. six hours
If you like you can begin your final day with a 1.5km out-and-back hike to a viewpoint (4,780 m) with a classic panoramic view of the Seven Lagoons.
Back on the main route, the route continues through the valley, visiting each lagoon in succession. Many of these lakes, including Qomerqocha ("green lake") and Tikacocha ("flower lake"), have significance tied to traditional Quechua cosmology. Wildlife sightings continue to be likely, especially vizcachas, llamas, and alpacas.
The trail leads to Pacchanta (4,360 m), a highland village with thermal springs and basic but welcome facilities. Have lunch here before returning to Cusco by road.
Ausangate trek: Need to know
The landscape here is rugged, wild, and pristine. You’ll be surrounded by awe-inspiring glacier mountains, turquoise lagoons of various sizes, and wildlife such as an abundance of waterfowl, raptors, and vizcachas, a cousin of the chinchilla. There are also some high mountain communities in this area who shepherd their alpacas in the region and offer some of the most beautiful weavings you’ll see in Peru. You’ll also get to soothe your aching feet in hot springs along the way.
Ausangate mountain was the most important mountain in Andean mythology (Apu Ausangate roughly translates as “mountain deity” in Quechua), but unlike on some of the more popular Machu Picchu treks, what you won’t see here are any ruins. Ausangate was off the beaten path even for the Inca!
Local communities graze alpacas in the area, so there are hundreds of animal trails that can easily be confused with the main trekking trail.
Be prepared for long nights at low temperatures (below freezing at night). If you are tent-camping, layers and proper equipment are vital. Most tours do not include a sleeping bag, but they can be rented. It’s advisable to bring an additional sleeping bag liner for extra warmth.
You’ll be able to purchase weavings in the communities you pass through – it’s much welcome support for a traditional (and waning) livelihood. Bring small change if you’d like to stock up on souvenirs. Buying directly from the women who raise the alpaca, shear the wool, spin the yarn and weave the final product is even better than “fair trade.”
The colourful mountain
A key moment of this trek is a sight you’ve certainly seen in all the photos: the “colourful mountain”. This ridge has also been nicknamed the “painted mountain” and the “rainbow mountain” by those trying to express the surreal layers of pastel purples, greens, yellows and reds that stripe it. Describe the scene how you will, and have your cameras ready, but you really do have to see it to believe it! Just be aware it’s a popular spot with day trippers.
Ausangate trek FAQs
Question
How difficult is the Ausangate trek?
Answer
The classic Ausangate trek is extremely challenging, in particular, because of the altitude, not to mention the cold nights. Even the very fit will find this a challenging route due to the altitude. You’ll need at least three days acclimatisation at altitude before setting off. An emergency horse will be available for exhausted trekkers but should not be relied upon for completing the trek. Make sure you’re fit, healthy, fully acclimatised and not suffering from any stomach troubles before you set off.
That said, although Ausangate is a beat of a trek, there is – as with Salkantay – a lodge version that brings some very welcome creature comforts to the overall experience, doesn’t negate the altitude, weather and gruelling ascents!
Question
When is the best time to hike the Ausangate trek?
Answer
You can only really attempt this trek during the dry season, between May and August/September. Trekking during the rainy season (Dec-March) brings snow, flooded paths and the risk of landslides. Note that the dry season is winter in the southern hemisphere, which means night time temperatures will be cold – well below freezing.
Question
What accommodation should I expect on the Ausangate trek?
Answer
On the classic camping trek, which loops around Mt. Ausangate, you’ll be camping for four nights in marked campsites that are more or less maintained by local communities.
The lodge route takes you from lodge-to-lodge, each one as beautiful as the last and all constructed from local materials. Part-owned and operated by members of the nearby Chillca community, the lodges are a great example of inclusive tourism. Although there is no electricity, the lodges are comfortable and cosy, especially in the evenings around the fire. The fresh meals prepared each day are delicious and you can even have a hot shower!
Question
Are permits required for the Ausangate trek?
Answer
This is another trek that needs no permit and can, theoretically, be done solo. Yet it is highly advisable to book with a local trekking operator. With the higher altitude and more remote conditions, you will need a guide and support staff who are well-versed in the requirements of trekking in this area.
Question
Can you do the Ausangate trek in November?
Answer
It has usually started to rain by November, so hiking Ausangate from November onwards is not a good idea.
In fact it can be snowing in places by November. We had a group there recently and it was not fun for them due to the weather conditions. If it has to be November, the Inca Trail or Salkantay are good options.
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