The best Galapagos Island hopping route
My recommended land-based Galapagos itinerary
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Isla Baltra
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Santa Fe Island
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Isla Floreana
To the north of Floreana lies Punta Cormorant, a beautiful white sand beach that runs for 720m and is known as the best flamingo lagoon in the Galapagos... -
Isla Isabela
Isabela is the largest of the Galapagos Islands and is made up of five (sometimes) active volcanoes... -
Isla Baltra
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Whenever I talk to people about the Galapagos, their first assumption is that they’ll be on a cruise. But as good as Galapagos cruises can be, there are plenty of options, and for lots of people, I end up recommending an island hopping trip instead.
This is where you go from island to island, in the same way you would on a cruise, except you sleep in comfortable lodges on dry land each night. For lots of people this is the better choice. Firstly it reduces the risk of seasickness spoiling your holiday. Although you travel from island to island on speedboats and conditions can be choppy, you’re not spending the entire trip aboard a small, sometimes rocky, boat.
Secondly you’ll get plenty of space to roam. Budget and even mid-range Galapagos cruise vessels can be small and cramped, and you’ll be living on top of the other passengers for at least five days. It might work for some, for others it sounds like hell! If you want space to stretch your legs or just don’t like the idea of being cooped up with strangers, you’d probably be happier on a land based trip instead.
Thirdly you can get much greater comfort at much more reasonable prices with a land-based trip. Mid-range cruises are fine but fairly basic, with small berths and simple facilities. For the same money you can get seriously looked after in land-based lodges.
The final, and for me the most important, difference is the flexibility of a land-based trip. Cruises follow highly regulated fixed routes with little room for deviation or spontaneity. Maybe you want to repeat an activity or stay longer someplace – all very easy in a lodge, but not really possible on a cruise. This brings a change of pace: cruise itineraries can feel a bit relentless: early morning starts, packed days, constant changes of scenery… with island hopping you can slow down, add rest days and generally take it easy.
There are certainly some big pros to cruising: you can access the more remote islands, you can see more in your trip, you’ll cruise overnight to maximise your time, and so on, but for some people island hopping is much more suitable.
My favourite island hopping route is explained below. What makes this itinerary unusual is the overnight stay on Floreana Island. Floreana is entirely cut off from flights or public boats and there’s only one lodge here, run by local legend Claudio. You have complete tranquility, have leisurely lunches on Claudio’s farm, star gaze with zero light pollution, and kayak straight from the lodge. You don’t get lazy days like these racing around on a cruise boat!
Key information
| Destinations | The Galapagos Islands |
|---|---|
| Activity | Adventure, Active, Nature & Wildlife |
| Physical Level | Mild |
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7 days From £2,720 ppThe best Galapagos Island hopping route itinerary
Arrival and the Itabaca Channel
Day 1 in Isla Baltra
Fly from mainland Ecuador (via Quito or Guayaquil) to Baltra Island in the Galápagos. After landing, travel directly to the Itabaca Channel on the northern coast of Santa Cruz Island. This area’s calm waters are ideal for kayaking, paddle boarding or snorkelling. You might spot blue-footed boobies, brown pelicans, and reef sharks, along with rays and other marine life near the mangroves and lava outcrops.
Later, continue by road across Santa Cruz to a highland reserve, where giant tortoises roam freely in their natural habitat. Overnight in Puerto Ayora, the island’s main town.
Visit Santa Fe Island
Day 2 in Santa Fe Island
Spend the day on the water, heading out with local fishermen towards Santa Fe Island, one of the more isolated islands in the archipelago. Known for its endemic land iguanas and abundant sea lion population, the island also offers excellent snorkelling. In the clear waters around the island, you might swim with sea lions, reef sharks and schools of colourful reef fish. Return to Puerto Ayora in the afternoon.
Floreana Island
Day 3–4 in Isla Floreana
Take an early morning speedboat south to Floreana, the least populated of the inhabited islands. Only around 150 people live here, mainly in the highlands. Upon arrival, travel by open-sided vehicle (known locally as a ‘chiva’) to accommodation near the coast.
In the afternoon, explore Black Beach by kayak or on foot, and snorkel in the sheltered waters nearby. Sea turtles and rays are often seen here. Later, visit a nearby sea lion breeding ground before returning for dinner beside the ocean.
The next day you can explore Floreana’s interior. The island has a complex and sometimes mysterious human history involving early settlers, German families, and even a self-styled baroness. A guided walk through the highlands visits sites including pirate caves, freshwater springs and historic settlement ruins. Giant tortoises are sometimes seen along the route.
Isabela Island
Day 5–7 in Isla Isabela
Depart Floreana by speedboat and head to Isabela, the largest of the Galápagos Islands. After arriving in Puerto Villamil, visit the tortoise breeding centre on the edge of town to learn about conservation efforts across the islands. Flamingos are sometimes seen in the nearby lagoons.
In the afternoon, cycle a flat coastal trail to the Wall of Tears, a historical site built by prisoners in the 1940s and 50s. The path passes beaches, lava fields, and lookout points. Later, take a boat to Las Tintoreras, small islets just offshore, where marine iguanas bask on the rocks and white-tip reef sharks rest in shallow channels. Snorkelling is possible here, often with turtles and rays.
The next day you can take a full-day hike up Sierra Negra, an active volcano with one of the largest calderas in the world. The trail winds through misty forest and arid volcanic terrain, offering views of lava fields, fumaroles and, on clear days, surrounding islands. Birdlife includes Galápagos hawks, Darwin’s finches and short-eared owls.
On your final day you can explore Puerto Villamil at your own pace – snorkelling at Concha de Perla lagoon, biking, or simply chilling on the beach.
Departure
Day 8 in Isla Baltra
Travel by speedboat and road back to Baltra Island for your flight to mainland Ecuador.
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