Kenya

More than just safaris

By Julie Olum

Things to do
Guides
Itineraries
Travel Companies
Places

Think of Kenya and you might think of a 4x4 safari vehicle chasing a big cat on the prowl for its next catch or a herd of elephants peacefully grazing. But for a relatively small country, the variety in Kenya’s natural landscapes, cultural heritage (there are over 40 tribes and spoken languages in the country) and cities is impressive — so much so that many visitors return time and again.

You can race camels in the desert, hike snow-capped mountains, watch migrating humpback whales and have a drink on a rooftop overlooking Africa’s Silicon Valley, all in one week if you have time.

That’s not to say that the safari experience is overrated. There are new lodges and hotels to experience, a growing conservation culture and most importantly, people who are proud of their land and all its gifts. But look a little deeper, and Kenya will offer you an experience beyond your expectations.

Hidden gems in Kenya

Laikipia

Borana Lodge

Paul Callcutt

Accommodation

Borana Lodge is positioned on a hillside above a dam in the centre of Borana Conservancy, and that setting drives much of what happens day to day. Elephants regularly come to drink and bathe below the lodge during the middle of the day, and lion and leopard move through the area at night, often close enough to hear.pau I value the flexibility here. From the lodge, you can arrange time on foot, on horseback, by vehicle or on mountain bikes, depending on how you want to engage with the landscape. Rhino tracking on foot is a key part of the experience, made possible by Borana’s long-term investment in protection, monitoring and ranger training. The accommodation is in private cottages rather than a central block, which gives guests space and separation without disconnecting them from what is happening outside. Views stretch across the conservancy towards Mount Kenya, and time in camp tends to revolve around wildlife movement and light rather than a fixed programme.

Masai Mara National Reserve

Naboisho Conservancy

Paul Callcutt

Place

Naboisho is a good example of what a community-led conservancy can look like when it is given enough space and time to work. It sits next to the Maasai Mara National Reserve and covers around 50,000 hectares, forming part of the wider Mara ecosystem. The conservancy was established by local Maasai landowners with the aim of restoring degraded land, protecting wildlife and creating a sustainable income stream for the community. Since its formation, grazing pressure has been reduced and habitats have recovered, which has allowed wildlife numbers to increase across the area. Large mammals including elephants, lions, cheetahs, leopards and buffalo are all present, alongside a strong bird population. Like all private or community managed conservancies, Naboisho is run very differently to the main national park. Access is controlled, vehicle numbers are limited, and activities are structured to reduce pressure on the land. This creates a different dynamic on game drives, with fewer vehicles and more freedom to spend time observing behaviour rather than moving constantly between sightings. The conservancy model also shapes how people interact with the landscape. Revenue from tourism supports land leases and local livelihoods, which in turn underpins the long-term viability of wildlife protection here. For visitors, that context matters, because it explains why the experience feels calmer and more deliberate than in more heavily trafficked parts of the Mara.

Laikipia

Borana Conservancy

Paul Callcutt

Place

Borana is a useful place to visit if you want to understand how conservation, livestock and tourism are being managed together in Laikipia. It is a private conservancy of around 32,000 acres on the northern foothills of Mount Kenya, sitting at roughly 6,500 feet above sea level, where the landscape shifts quickly from fertile highlands to more arid ground. What defines Borana is its role within a much larger conservation picture. In 2013, the fences between Borana and Lewa Wildlife Conservancy were removed, creating the Lewa–Borana Landscape, a combined area of more than 90,000 acres. This has allowed wildlife to move freely across a far broader range than would otherwise be possible, particularly black and white rhino. The area is now recognised as one of Kenya’s Key One rhino populations, supporting a significant proportion of the country’s remaining animals . Rhino conservation is central here. Borana introduced black rhino in 2013 and has invested heavily in security, veterinary care and ranger training, working closely with Lewa on anti-poaching operations. That work shapes how the conservancy functions day to day and gives real context to time spent on the ground. What is often overlooked is that Borana still operates as a working landscape. Managed grazing is allowed in partnership with neighbouring communities, generating income for local herders while improving grassland health through livestock movement. It is a pragmatic model rather than a purist one, and it reflects how conservation is being approached in this part of Kenya.

Laikipia

Solio Game Reserve

Paul Callcutt

Place

Solio is a useful stop when the aim is to understand how private conservation can work at a very practical level. It is a privately run reserve in Laikipia with a long-standing focus on rhino protection, and that focus shapes the entire experience. The reserve covers around 17,500 acres between Mount Kenya and the Aberdare range, with a mix of wooded grassland and wetlands. This relatively contained landscape supports one of the highest densities of black rhino in Africa, the result of decades of sustained breeding and protection efforts. As a result, sightings here are frequent and unforced, without the need to range widely or wait for chance encounters. Solio is also home to a broader spread of wildlife, including lion, leopard, cheetah, buffalo and zebra, but it is the rhino population that defines the reserve and gives it its purpose. What Solio demonstrates clearly is how conservation priorities influence tourism. The reserve is tightly managed, access is controlled, and the emphasis is on protection rather than spectacle.

Laikipia

Ngare Ndare Forest

Paul Callcutt

Place

Ngare Ndare Forest offers a very different environment from the open landscapes that define the rest of Laikipia. It is an indigenous forest that forms part of the wider Mount Kenya ecosystem, linking the mountain’s upper slopes with surrounding conservancies. The main draw here is the forest itself. A raised canopy walk runs for several hundred metres above the forest floor, giving a clear sense of scale and structure that you do not get at ground level. From the viewing platform at the end, the transition from dense forest to the slopes of Mount Kenya is easy to see. Lower down, the forest opens into natural pools and waterfalls fed by the mountain’s water system. These areas allow time to stop and explore on foot, and they are often used for walking and swimming rather than continuous movement.

Laikipia

Community walks at Olepangi Farm

Paul Callcutt

Experience

I tend to include these walks because they avoid many of the problems that come with rushed, performative “cultural” excursions. They are not set up as a spectacle, and they are not confined to a fixed script or timetable. The walks are led by Mr Kariuki, a legendary guide at Olepangi Farm, who lives locally and brings a strong grasp of the area’s social history as well as its present-day realities. Rather than focusing on ceremony or display, the time is spent talking through how people live here, how the area has changed, and how local concerns connect to wider regional and global issues. The tone is conversational, and the emphasis is on explanation rather than presentation. There is flexibility built into how the walks run. They can be short or extended, depending on interest and energy, and they tend to follow discussion rather than a prescribed route. That makes them feel responsive rather than staged, and allows space for questions that would be difficult to explore on a more formulaic visit. What matters most is that these walks are rooted in everyday context. They offer insight into contemporary life in Laikipia without reducing it to a checklist of cultural markers, and without the sense of intrusion that can accompany more commercial village visits.

Laikipia

Olepangi Farm

Paul Callcutt

Accommodation

Olepangi is a working farm owned and run by Elizabeth and Clinton, and their involvement is central to how the place operates. Their backgrounds and extensive travel are reflected in the house itself, which is furnished with objects collected over time rather than designed to follow a particular aesthetic. The result is informal and practical, and it feels lived in rather than styled. Its location makes it useful. Guests can stay largely on the farm, walking, riding and spending time around the property, or use it as a base to visit nearby conservancies including Ol Pejeta, Solio and Lolldaiga Hills, as well as Ngare Ndare Forest. That choice between staying local and heading out is one of the main reasons I like to include it in itineraries. Olepangi’s approach to land use is also relevant. What was once dry and unfertile ground has been developed into a productive farm using organic methods and local supply chains. This feeds directly into the guest experience, particularly around meals and day-to-day interactions, without being presented as a formal sustainability programme. A notable part of a stay here is the opportunity to join community walks led by Mr Kariuki. These are shaped around local history and contemporary life in the area, and tend to be conversational rather than curated. They offer context that is difficult to access through more typical safari experiences.

Laikipia

Lolldaiga Hills Conservancy

Paul Callcutt

Place

The Lolldaiga Hills conservancy is a real hidden gem in Laikipia – a little unpolished and unpredictable, but I think destined for the forefront of Kenya's tourism and conservation efforts. Set at the base of Mount Kenya, this is a high-altitude private conservancy where snow-capped peaks give way to arid ground, rocky outcrops and one of the country’s largest remaining cedar forests. What defines Lolldaiga for me is scale and diversity. At around 49,000 acres, it is large enough for wildlife to move naturally across different habitats rather than concentrating around fixed areas, giving the place an unpredictability that makes it feel real and raw. The conservancy supports a wide range of wildlife, including four of the Big Five: lions, leopards, elephants and cheetahs. It is also known for species that are increasingly difficult to see elsewhere, such as Grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, striped hyena, gerenuk and aardwolf. The ecological overlap created by altitude and habitat variation means that encounters here are often unexpected. Lolldaiga is also an important elephant dispersal zone, which gives it real conservation value beyond tourism. Wildlife is not confined or managed for viewing density, and that lack of artificial concentration is exactly what gives the area its character. As a place to spend time, Lolldaiga suits travellers who are interested in landscape as much as wildlife, and who appreciate that some of the most rewarding safari experiences come from areas that are still finding their rhythm rather than performing to expectation.

Laikipia

Safari Series Camp

Paul Callcutt

Accommodation

I often recommend Safari Series because it reflects the kind of safari experience I believe still has a future in northern Kenya: low volume, owner-led, and closely tied to the land it operates within. The camp is deliberately small, with just six tents, and is run directly by its owners, Moon and Ed. That scale allows a level of flexibility that larger operations struggle to maintain. The tents are comfortable and well equipped, with proper beds, en-suite bathrooms, hot showers and solar power, but the emphasis is firmly on time spent outside rather than retreating into camp. What I value most here is the breadth of how you can engage with the conservancy. Privately guided game drives are combined with walking safaris, fly camping and night drives, allowing people to experience the area from different perspectives and at different paces. There is also scope to take part in conservation and community-focused activities, including citizen science initiatives and visits to the Makurian Cultural Centre, which add context to time spent in the field.

Laikipia

Ol Malo Lodge

Paul Callcutt

Accommodation

Ol Malo sits within a private conservancy on the Laikipia plateau, with the wide open terrain and freely roaming wildlife you’d expect at any conservancy. But what sets Ol Malo apart for me is that it is genuinely family run. Andrew and Chyulu Francombe are closely involved in day-to-day life at the lodge, and that involvement shapes the experience. Andrew grew up on this land and brings a deep understanding of the local environment and wildlife, while Chyulu’s influence is evident in the way the lodge is designed and lived in. The accommodation is comfortable and well considered without feeling formal. Rooms are positioned to look out over the surrounding landscape, and the overall feel is relaxed rather than polished. Activities are deliberately flexible. You can move through the conservancy on foot, on horseback or by vehicle, with time for swimming, river tubing and simply being outdoors. Horseback safaris are a particular strength here and offer a very different way of encountering wildlife, guided by people who know the terrain and the animals well.

Laikipia

Expedition safari in Laikipia

Paul Callcutt

Experience

A multi-day expedition safari in Laikipia is one of the most original and unfiltered experiences you can have as a visitor to Kenya. I recommend this to anyone who wants to get beyond the typical game-drive style safari trip. This is a camel-supported trek through the landscapes of Tumaren Ranch, a large wildlife conservancy in northern Laikipia. Trips typically last around three days, with roughly four to five hours of hiking per day. Compared to viewing wildlife from a vehicle, this is quiet, tentative, contemplative and so much more thrilling. The operation is small and family-run, and that scale matters. Camps are mobile, with fly-camp set-ups moved each day by an experienced local crew. Accommodation is simple but well organised, with classic walking safari tents, freshly prepared long-drop toilets at each camp, and bucket or shower-tent washing facilities. The emphasis is on practicality and comfort without losing the sense of expedition. Guiding is central to the experience. The Laikipia Maasai team not only manage the logistics of moving camp and handling the camels, but also share an intimate understanding of the land, wildlife behaviour and local ecology. Time on foot naturally opens space for tracking, reading signs and understanding how animals move through this environment. A walking safari also allows meaningful interaction with local culture. You spend time with the Maasai team and learn directly from people whose lives are closely tied to this landscape.

Laikipia

Tumaren Camp

Paul Callcutt

Accommodation

I recommend Tumaren Camp as a gateway into Laikipia because it offers an unusually genuine introduction to the region, both in terms of landscape and people. It sits within the wider Tumaren Ranch, an important wildlife conservancy in a part of Kenya that is far less visited than the Mara, yet ecologically just as significant. One of the main reasons I recommend Tumaren is the guiding. The camp works closely with Samburu guides who have a deep, lived connection to the land. Their knowledge goes beyond wildlife identification; they understand how the landscape works as a system and how people have lived within it for generations. That perspective shapes the entire experience. The camp itself is deliberately small and discreet, with a modest number of tents designed to sit lightly in the environment. Accommodation is comfortable but restrained, and the emphasis is on being part of the surroundings rather than insulated from them. This is a place where you notice wildlife moving through camp and feel the scale and openness of Laikipia around you. Tumaren’s approach to tourism is another reason I include it. The camp is rooted in community collaboration and conservation, and that philosophy shows in how it operates, from construction choices to its relationship with local communities. In practical logistical terms, Tumaren works very well in itineraries. It allows guests to arrive in Laikipia, slow down, and prepare for what comes next, particularly walking safaris.