Get underneath the skin of eccentric England and you’ll discover a place of outstanding natural beauty, ancient history and modern metropolises.
For such a (relatively) small country, England has an astonishing amount of natural beauty. Whether it’s the hills and waterside retreats of the Lake District, the rugged bleakness of the Peak District or coastal views on the South Downs, England’s countryside is perfect for exploring, whether hiking, cycling or simply visiting its villages.
However, if you’re into culture more than nature, England’s cities are some of the world’s most exciting. Everyone knows London is one of the world’s great cities, with outstanding nightlife, music, arts and restaurants, but try exploring a little further. Manchester is renowned for its music scene and nightlife, while Liverpool’s regeneration goes far beyond Beatles tours and football teams.
Ultimately, enjoying a visit to England is about the small things — visiting a pub for a pint of beer, eating a full English breakfast, getting confused by regional accents – but the more you see, the more you’ll enjoy.
It’s a country without true wilderness. The national parks are well policed and monitored, and trails across farmland are often very long standing. Some trails follow paths that are thousands of years old.
This means English trails are usually easy to follow. There are plenty of major, well-maintained and signed routes. There will always be some missing posts, confusing directions and momentary aberrations but I generally find the biggest problem comes when there are too many good paths criss-crossing an area.
For example I worried about following the mish-mash of paths along the Malvern Hills before I realised it doesn’t really matter, they all roughly end up doing the same thing.
A bit of map reading competence is a useful safeguard of course, and in a varied landscape like England’s it can increase the pleasure to see there’s an ancient church in the next village or hidden valley just beyond the ridge.
What about a compass? I suppose that’s going to help in a white-out on Scafell Pike but I can’t recall ever using one on an English walk.
Another personal aside here: generally I try to banish fear of ‘getting lost’ on what are mostly harmless English routes. Maybe you don’t want to be clueless on a mountain after dark but for most English walks a bit of being “lost” can be the best bit of the day.
I took a daft detour from a normal route recently in the Cotswolds. I spontaneously turned off the path because it looked so pretty to the west and the view was amazing. I thought I would loop back to the main path but of course I was wrong and found myself in a run-down piggery, ankle deep in mud and had to clamber through barbed wire down onto a busy roadside verge to escape. Disaster or highlight? Well, here I am talking about it and it’s the only bit of that walk that I’ve ended up writing about.
Land access in England is a smorgasbord of labels: we have public footpaths, permissive footpaths, bridleways, restrictive byways, open access land, all grouped together under the banner of “public rights of way”. All you really need to know is that walkers are allowed on all of the above, they’re all clearly marked on Ordnance Survey maps and, for most long distance footpaths, they’ll be clearly waymarked as well. For more information see this handy guide to public rights of way in Britain.
Yes – on a self-guided walking holiday. Most of the major long distance walks have fairly well established itineraries for different paces. For example you can do Hadrian’s Wall in anything from 8 to 12+ days, depending on how much distance you want to cover each day.
Beware of a walking holiday operator’s grading of walks. I usually find them geared to inexperienced walkers. I’m not an athlete but I’ve sometimes done a route in half the time they’ve specified.
My best tip in England would be to talk to locals along the way. They’ll often know – and love describing – some little magical detour that those who mapped your route might not have discovered.
You certainly can organise it all yourself, and lots of people do. Personally, I prefer making my own arrangements unless I’m too busy.
Baggage transfers are often simply the B&B owner running your bags to the next overnight stop in their car. Or booking a taxi to do it. It’s something you can do very easily yourself – and may lead to a conversation or discovery that may improve that day’s walk too.
I’d recommend using a walking holiday company if you can’t be bothered with the logistical headaches, or aren’t confident in your abilities and need advice. It can be pretty good to have someone at the end of the phone should anything go wrong.
Ours is a compact and densely populated nation, but it’s surprisingly easy to find a quiet corner even in the most touristy honey-pots. Some of my favourite lesser-visited walking spots include the Blackdown Hills in Dorset, the Marlborough Downs in Wiltshire or the Wolds in Lincolnshire or Yorkshire. There are some brilliant little-known walks around Offa’s Dyke in Herefordshire, in the crazy up-and-down Shropshire hills and in the surprisingly craggy countryside of West Yorkshire.
OS, our national treasure of a mapping agency, produces a handy rundown of the country’s most popular walks. If it’s peace and quiet you’re after, just do anything but these!
Walking holiday companies use “self-guided” as opposed to an escorted or guided tour. England is easy to get around, safe, and the locals are (usually) easy to understand. There’s no real wilderness and most long distance footpaths are well waymarked, meaning you don’t need much in the way of navigational skills. All of which makes self-guided a popular choice.
So what are you paying for? The cost of your walking holiday is primarily each night’s accommodation, plus baggage transfer (so you only need to carry a light day pack) and perhaps a connection to the start/end point. The big advantage of a self-guided trip, in addition to being much cheaper than a guided holiday, is that the company can tailor your itinerary and accommodation to suit your preferred pace.
Can I say the southwest again? Okay, I’d also recommend the Lake District, the Isle of Wight and the Scilly Isles; all of which have plenty of easy access day hikes, and lots to do for kids on non-walking days.
A pro-tip: our national parks and other protected areas are tiny in comparison to other countries, and you don’t need to base yourself within the park boundaries where availability may be limited and prices higher. Often there are excellent (and more affordable) places to stay nearby. For example you can save money by visiting the Cotswolds from north Wiltshire, south Warwickshire or west Oxfordshire, and you can make forays into the Lake District from places like St. Bees and Ulvaston.
I’m easily bored, and much prefer rolling hills and dales of northern and western England to the flat landscapes of the east and southeast. We may have few mountains but we have lots of hills!
It’s hard to pick just one so here are a few: Parts of Northumberland could be a film set. The Yorkshire Wolds are criminally underrated, but I’d also vote for the (often overpopular) Cotswolds and Lake District.
But if I had to choose just one place to walk for the rest of my life it would be my native southwest; Cornwall, Devon, Somerset and Dorset. Maybe I’m biased but we’ve got the sunsets, favourable prevailing winds, pasties, cider and clotted cream. The southwest has the mildest climate and most varied coastline, which explains why it’s the UK’s most popular holiday area. Don’t panic – it’s easy to avoid the crowds, simply avoid the big resorts.
Without hesitation, the Southwest Coast Path. This world-class 630-mile route skirts the shoreline from Watchet in Somerset to Poole in Dorset but there are hundreds of other routes, from the 600 miles of trails in Exmoor National Park to circular day-walks like the National Trust routes around Cheddar Gorge or Avebury. It’s well served by organised walking holiday companies, but do book ahead if you’re coming in summer.
Other favourites include the White Horse Way, the Yorkshire Wolds Way and Striding Edge in the Lakes.
England has a temperate-maritime climate with wet winters and warm(er) summers, but the weather here is famously fickle. I’ve regretted being in shorts with a freezing wind biting my knees in midsummer in the Lake District, and have been left carrying surplus layers on a bright sunny winter’s day in Oxfordshire.
Although summer heatwaves are now becoming more frequent and severe, it remains the rule of thumb that summer is rarely too hot to walk, and is mostly dry. Those affected by pollen might want to watch out for hayfever season(s). Note that accommodations over the peak summer months are often booked out months in advance.
Winters in England are cold although, thanks to the Gulf Stream, not as cold as our northerly latitudes imply. But cold is compounded by the damp and the wind, which, along with short daylight hours, can make winter walking a bit of a chore. There are few things as glorious as a crisp winter’s morning, but they’re an infrequent pleasure and I wouldn’t plan an entire walking holiday around it.
My advice is to aim for the “shoulder seasons” of late spring and early autumn, which offer the best balance of fewer crowds, greater availability, and a decent chance of agreeable weather.
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§ 04
The England atlas
19 picksPlaces & Experiences You Won't Find Elsewhere
Where
What
Difficulty: EasyDistance: 60 miles (98km)Duration: Six to seven daysStart/end point: Hereford Cathedral
Pilgrimages are booming in popularity, for those with faith and without. While you don’t need to be a Christian to walk Herefordshire’s Golden Valley Pilgrim Way, it does have the church at its heart. On this 60-mile (98km) circuit, you stay in a different one each night.
At the end of each green-hilled hiking day, I placed my boots on centuries-old flagstones, dumped my rucksack onto time-smoothed pews, and hung my waterproof off the poppyheads at the end of choir stalls. I’ve been walking in the UK for years as a travel journalist and book author. And I can safely say this is one of the country's quirkiest long-distance walks, complete with a touch of the divine.
The route
Herefordshire gets overlooked. Lodged against Wales, merged into the Midlands, with no coast to define its edges, few walkers wander here. But it’s excellent hiking country, especially the Golden Valley, where the Black Mountains loom above a rural borderland, once fought over by the Welsh and English, now peaceful, serene.
The Golden Valley Pilgrim Way is unusual for a pilgrimage. Most lead you somewhere; on this, you finish back where you started. But the idea, says the priest behind it, is that you return a little changed. Maybe, maybe not. But spending in pubs and farm shops, and paying into church coffers, certainly feels like a positive for the countryside economy.
The start and finish is Hereford Cathedral, once a major pilgrimage site itself. Arrive early to look around – it’s home to the Mappa Mundi, the biggest surviving medieval world map. Walkers can stay in the cathedral’s 15th-century cloisters – the first cathedral in Britain to accommodate pilgrims since medieval times. The designated sleeping room is fairly plain. But following the choir into the main nave, and listening to them erupt into evensong, is spine-tingling stuff.
From Hereford the route heads west towards Wales, a moderate loop around the Abbeydore Deanery – it isn’t waymarked but you can download GPX files. This is a landscape of apple orchards, woody vales, castle ruins, grazing sheep; of timelessness and stories. There’s the gnarled ancient oaks of Moccas Park, the gurgle of St Peter’s sacred spring, the views from ridge-top Arthur’s Stone, a Neolithic dolmen where King Arthur allegedly slayed a dragon.
The route also visits many medieval churches, nine of which offer ‘night sanctuary’ for pilgrims. They are simultaneously basic and atmospheric, all soaring ceilings and tombstones. At Dorstone I slept behind the choir and was woken by sun streaming through the stained glass.
The churches are also frequently next to excellent village pubs, like Dorstone’s low-beamed Pandy Inn. Best was Cloddock, where the Cornewall Arms is more like your gran’s front room, where locals gather to drink, eat crisps and play table skittles.
Need to know
Hereford has a train station, with direct services from cities such as Cardiff (1hr), London (3hrs) and Birmingham (85mins).
The trail must be booked via Abbeydore Deanery (abbeydoredeanery.org/gvpw). You’ll be sent a pilgrim passport to stamp en route. A donation of £20pp per night is requested. You have exclusive access to the church; if someone else wants to stay the same night, you’ll be asked if you’re happy to share. It’s OK to say no.
At the night sanctuaries you get access to a sink and toilet (which might be outside) but no shower. Kitchen facilities range from full set-up to just a kettle. Simple camp beds are provided – they’re not especially comfy. Bring a warm sleeping bag and pillow; consider a sleeping mat for extra padding. At Kingstone there were pieces of carpet on the pews, which I borrowed, for extra insulation. At Dorstone bigger camp beds came with mattresses, blankets and hot water bottles – luxury indeed!
The route is open year-round – visitor books evidenced pilgrims who’d walked over Christmas. Be aware the churches are chilly, even in summer. Also, this is farming country, prone to muddiness. I walked in March, after an especially wet winter – it was a quagmire. The pay-offs were newborn lambs, daffodils and no other tourists.
Distance: 48 milesDuration: Four to eight days depending on your paceDifficulty: Easy to moderate
The southern half of the Peak District, called the white peak for its limestone geology, is the gentler and more 'traditionally' picturesque stretch of the national park. You'll find no brooding crags and desolate moors here, it's more about gentle dales, meandering brooks and quant – sometimes twee – villages. That's not to say the scenery isn't impressive; around Monyash and Lathkill Dale it's often breathtaking.
The Limestone Way weaves through the white peak, skirting historical Illam, crossing famous (and busy) Dovedale, before meandering north towards Matlock and, eventually, Castleton on the border of the much sterner dark peak.
Broken up into eight casually-paced days this is a gloriously gentle walk through some of the most easy-going but immensely rewarding countryside in the UK.
Why it's best for beginners: A huge range of walks for all abilitiesDistance: Various day walksDuration: Two to three daysDifficulty: Easy to moderate
Basing a walking holiday in a popular Lake District centre like Ambleside means you have a vast choice of accommodation, outdoor shops and walking routes. It can be crowded and won’t feel like ‘getting away from it all’ but with all those resources on hand it can be perfect for beginners. Walkers can find paths ranging from tricky fell ascents to gentle hikes around lakes, right from their doorstep.
Best for: easy-going long-distance pathDistance: 62 miles/100kmDuration: Three to six days - or shorter segmentsDifficulty: Easy
Generally flat, although with more ascents than the Norfolk Coastpath, this way-marked coastal walk offers a pleasant and easy-going route through nature reserves, broad sandy beaches and dunes, and across low rocky headlands.
Landmarks like Lindisfarne and Bamburgh Castle are highlights but walkers will also appreciate a series of unspoilt coastal villages and towns, all with friendly pubs and B&Bs to eat and stay.
Best for: flat and easy-going walksDistance: 84 miles/135kmDuration: Six to eight days – or shorter segmentsDifficulty: Easy
The Norfolk Coastpath is 84 miles in full and can be completed in six to eight days, or in shorter segments. Norfolk is famously flat and perfect for a beginner's walking holiday. But this coastal path proves that flat doesn’t have to mean boring. The route from Hunstanton to Hopton-on-Sea explores misty marshes, pine woods, sandy beaches, grassy dunes and atmospheric coastal villages.
En-route facilities are good and the walk’s highlights may include the grey seals at Blakeney Point, Hunstanton’s red-and-white striped cliffs and Holkham’s sandy shores, sometimes voted Britain’s best beach.
Best for: hill walking holidays
Perhaps the most famous walking region in the UK, the Lake District offers a chance to wander lonely as a cloud amid impressive landscapes of mountains and water.
The choices for walkers range from England’s most serious climbing routes to gentle lakeside circuits. The two main hazards to consider are that the main roads and towns get very busy with day trippers and tour buses in the summer months, while the fells include challenging terrain to be taken very seriously.
Across the Lakes the transport network can be a limiting factor. Roads are narrow and sometimes jammed. Nevertheless there is a huge range of places to stay, from farm B&Bs and hostels to luxury hotels and suiting either inn-to-inn or centre-based walking holidays.
Best for: classic English countryside walking holidays
For a glimpse of classic English limestone countryside with rolling hills, leafy vales, dry stone walls and pretty, if sometimes twee, villages, try some of the paths criss-crossing the Cotswold region. Footpaths are generally good quality, waymarked and well maintained, and the en-route facilities are good.
The region suits either point-to-point trails or centre-based walkers. Walkers may find the honey-pot villages too busy with day-trippers at peak times but the comprehensive network of footpaths makes it easy to escape the crowds that rarely go beyond the teashops and car parks. Avoid the tour-bus problem altogether by sticking to the picturesque fringes of the region, like Warwickshire and South Gloucestershire.
Expect accommodation generally on the pricey but exquisite side. Gentrified gastro-pubs are plentiful, but you’ll need to search hard for traditional ‘working village’ pubs.
Best for: gentle and flat walking holidays
Hillwalkers look away now. This is Britain’s flattest region with pancake landscapes stretching to the hazy horizon in all directions. Walkers will be able to explore easy flat paths through gorgeous examples of rural lowland England, with frequent pastoral scenes looking like Constable paintings.
Expect a good transport network but plan accommodation ahead because in rural parts options can be limited whether you are travelling inn-to-inn or based in one spot.
Distance: 94 miles/151kmDuration: 5 – 8 daysStart point: Circular routeEnd point: Circular routeDifficulty: Moderate, with some hillsSuitable for: Walkers who like history, legends… and great views
The White Horse Trail is a circular long distance walking route through the Wiltshire countryside linking eight white horse chalk figures and visiting historic sites like Avebury, Silbury Hill and the Kennet and Avon Canal.
The eponymous chalk figures are famous sights across the Wiltshire Downs and each has a different story and associated legends.
It’s a very rural trail using well-established paths across classic chalky hills and neat Wiltshire farmland. It can be muddy but there are no wilderness sections.
It’s rated moderate because there’s a fair amount of clambering up the sides of chalk hills - all the horse figures are cut on the sides of escarpments. The total elevation of the White Horse Trail is 6,703ft/2,043m and the highest point is 932ft/284m.
Distance: 70 miles/113kmDuration: 4 – 6 daysStart point: It’s a circuit – but any of the ferry terminals make most senseEnd point: Wherever, it’s a circuit, see above!Difficulty: Moderate with a few gentle cliff climbsSuitable for: Seascape admirers and those who like a sense of achievement
As a long distance walk, the Isle of Wight coastal path is quite short but it provides an opportunity to walk right round the shoreline of England’s largest island. You might find that on return to the start point there’s great satisfaction in completing an island’s circumference, regardless of the length!
Along the way, the Isle of Wight offers a surprisingly varied sequence of landscapes, including jagged chalk headlands, long sandy bays, salt marshes and estuaries. There are certainly no boring stretches on this route.
Many islanders are keen walkers and many visitors try at least part of the coast trail. This means the local authority keeps the path well maintained and signposted. It also means you are likely to see other walkers at any time, especially round Tennyson Down and the Needles. Nevertheless the round-the-island walk is generally less crowded than mainland coastal trails simply because it’s harder for most people to get there.
Distance: 79 miles (127km)Duration: six daysStart point: Hessle, East YorkshireEnd point: Filey, North YorkshireDifficulty: Easy to mediumSuitable for: Relaxed walkers who prefer quiet rural exploration over star attractions at every turn
Yorkshire isn't known for its modesty, especially not when it comes to the well-known (and busy) Dales, Moors and Peak District. In comparison, the Yorkshire Wolds is a quiet and unpretentious stretch of gentle countryside and very quiet paths. The Yorkshire Wolds Way is the best long distance walk you've never heard of; expect homely inns, B&B’s and guesthouses, real ales and hearty traditional food.
The route wends its way from the banks of the expansive Humber estuary, across the tranquil countryside and unspoilt villages of the Wolds to reach the spectacular headland of Filey Brigg on the North Yorkshire Coast.
There are no cities on the route and no serious hills either. Don’t imagine it’s dull though: this is rural England at its best. It’s an area that seems to have bigger skies with wide panoramic views. It’s easy to see why artist David Hockney spent years painting landscapes here.
Yet the Wolds Way is never crowded. In fact, this has been called ‘Britain’s least known National Trail’ by the BBC. Nevertheless, the path is generally well mapped, maintained and way-marked.
Best for: shorter or centre-based walking holidays
The Peak District was the UK's first national park, established in 1951 to carve out a protected space between the encroaching industrial cities of the midlands and northern England. The national park and the UK's 'right to roam' laws owe their existence to the struggles of ordinary working people who, in the 1932 Kinder Trespass, forced private landowners to grant public access to the nation's beautiful but previously restricted countryside.
Divided by a geological fault line between the gritstone 'Dark Peak' and the limestone 'White Peak', the landscape switches from open, even severe-looking, moorland to the north and secluded dales and quaint farming villages to the south.
Its proximity to motorways and several major cities means the Peak District gets busy in places, particularly around pleasant but popular honeytraps such as Dovedale, Castleton and Matlock. But with nearly 2,000 miles of public footpaths and rights of way, it's still very easy to find yourself alone and enjoying empty trails and wide open views. The northern Dark Peak is generally quieter, as is the far south on the border with Staffordshire.
Aside from the Pennine Way, which starts in Edale, there are no major long-distance walks here. It's more a place for a short walking break, perhaps based in one of the ten magnificent YHAs to be found in the Peaks.
Distance: Approximately 184 miles (296 kilometres)Duration: Typically 12-14 days (or shorter segments)Start Point: Kemble, Gloucestershire, EnglandEnd Point: Thames Barrier, London, EnglandDifficulty: Mild
The Thames Path is a scenic long-distance walking route following the course of the River Thames in southern England. Beginning in the rural Cotswolds at Kemble, it extends to the Thames Barrier in London, covering approximately 184 miles of rural southern England landscapes. This path winds through tranquil meadows, historic cities like Oxford and Windsor, and eventually the urban sprawl of London. Along the route, you’ll encounter various iconic points of interest , including Oxford University, Hampton Court Palace, and the Tower Bridge. The journey can be completed in roughly two weeks, but walkers often opt for shorter, more manageable sections.
Distance: 268 miles (431km)Duration: Three to four weeks, or shorter segmentsStart point: Edale, DerbyshireEnd point: Kirk Yetholm, Scottish BordersDifficulty: Moderate/strenuous – hilly, often remote upland, long stretches between accommodationSuitable for: Experienced walkers
This iconic trail follows the rugged ridge forming the backbone of northern England. Don’t be deceived by crowds of day walkers at popular spots, the full route is a tough, varied but memorable undertaking.
Distance: 99 miles (159km)Duration: Nine daysStart point: WinchesterEnd point: EastbourneDifficulty: Moderate to easy – relatively short and very easy to navigate; few very steep climbs, though a lot of walking up and down small hillsSuitable for: Any reasonably fit walker, including families; can also be cycled
You’ll walk through landscapes of rolling hills and breezy fields of corn, passing numerous pretty villages with thatched cottages, historic pubs and gardens bursting with blooms. And there’s a fitting final-day climax as you rollercoaster your way up and down the majestic chalk cliffs known as the Seven Sisters before reaching the beaches of Eastbourne for a celebratory ice cream.
Most of the gradients are reassuringly manageable along the pleasant chalk hills of the South Downs Way, and the weather down here is usually pretty favourable.
Distance: 615 miles/990kmDuration: 30 - 60 days, or shorter sectionsStart point: WorcesterEnd point: Shoreham-by-Sea, West SussexDifficulty: Easy to mediumSuitable for: History fans and walkers who enjoy discovering little known patches of rural England
Here's another left-field suggestion you won't find in all the obvious contenders, but one I feel deserves inclusion for its historical interest as much as the walking.
The Monarch’s Way loops down from the West Midlands to the south coast of England, following the lengthy route taken by Charles II to evade capture following defeat by Cromwell at the Battle of Worcester in 1651.
The Monarch’s Way is so long that it is usually broken into three sections for convenience of description and mapping. It’s customary to start at Worcester, as Charles did. He escaped rapidly after watching the Royalist defeat in the final battle of the English Civil War from the cathedral tower, so the grand gothic church is a good place to begin.
Distance: 190.5 miles (306.5km)Duration: 14 daysStart point: St BeesEnd point: Robin Hood’s BayDifficulty: Moderate to hard – very hilly through the Lake District stages; poorly waymarked in places, particularly over the Pennines; expect rain and boggy ground at timesSuitable for: Fit walkers with a sense of adventure
Considered by some to be the best long-distance walk in England, Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Path has many remarkable qualities, but it’s the walker camaraderie that is so often the stand-out take-home of this hugely popular cross-country hike. The scenery is at times stunning – looking at you, Lake District – but the sense of community you experience with fellow walkers is felt here on this walk perhaps more than on any other in Britain.
Distance: 84 miles (135km)Duration: From Six to 10 daysStart point: Wallsend, NewcastleEnd point: Bowness-on-SolwayDifficulty: Moderate to easy – well-marked route; few steep gradients; some stiles to negotiateSuitable for: Any reasonably fit walker, including families.
This unique walking trail not only crosses the width of England, but also follows the course of Britain’s largest Roman monument – a 1,900-year-old, 73-mile long fortification that once marked the northern boundary of the Roman Empire.
Accommodation is plentiful along the route, and includes campsites, hostels and B&Bs. Where you break for the night depends not only on how far you’re able to walk each day, but also on how interested you are in the numerous Roman sights along the way. It can take a few hours to visit a museum or the ruins of a Roman fort, but not every walker visits them all, so factor this into your plan.
Distance: 630 miles/1,014kmDuration: 30 – 60 days, or shorter sectionsStart point: Minehead, SomersetEnd point: Poole, DorsetDifficulty: Moderate to hard, with repeated climbs and descentsSuitable for: There’s a small scenic section for everyone but the whole route is for those with time and stamina.
Of all my favourite walks in the UK, this one easily tops the list.
The South West Coast Path is England’s longest trail but also one of its most famous and highly rated. In the Lonely Planet Guide to Great Britain it is the first attraction mentioned and often features in lists of the world’s best walking trails.
Very few walkers complete the path in one go; for most it’s a longer-term project that’s broken up into more easily-manageable sections. Exactly how you split it up depends on how much time you have for each stretch, and how challenging you want to make it.
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