Hiking in Ba Be National Park
Exploring Vietnam's hidden gem
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Hanoi
Vietnam’s capital is a riot of blaring horns, stunning architecture and delicious street food... -
Ba Be National Park
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Hanoi
Vietnam’s capital is a riot of blaring horns, stunning architecture and delicious street food...
I'm going to let you in on a secret... As a Marseillais who'd been living and hiking in Vietnam for almost a decade, I thought I'd covered every nook and cranny of the country. But Bac Kan and its famous lake was still a terra incognita to me. So one fine morning I packed a small bag and headed north to Ba Be National Park.
What I discovered was a jewel case of unspoilt nature. Karst mountains plunging into emerald waters, mist sleeping in late at the surface of the lake... Ba Be National Park is a breath of fresh air, a return to basics. You can cruise through landscapes as simple as the first days of the world, explore spectacular caves (such as Puong, Hua Ma and above all Tham Phay – the famous Son Doong of the North, as they say in the guidebooks), and cycle through brilliant green rice fields.
What struck me first (and still does, every time I come back) was the peaceful atmosphere, far removed from the crowds and hustle and bustle of some of the more popular destinations. This is where Ba Be really comes into its own, especially in the face of Sa Pa, a victim of its own success. In contrast with Sa Pa, Ba Be is a model of light-touch tourism that remains far off the Beaten track. Come here to reconnect with nature and discover Vietnam's rich culture in a more authentic setting – especially the Tay and Dao ethnic groups. It’s also a good springboard for areas virtually unknown to foreign travellers.
I admit that the journey from Hanoi is fairly arduous, but trust me: it's worth it!
Key information
| Destinations | Ba Be National Park |
|---|---|
| Activity | Adventure, Hiking & Trekking, Active, Walking, Nature & Wildlife, Culture, Indigenous Tourism |
| Physical Level | Mild |
 Season |
April - November |
Featured tours
Ba Be National Park
Ba Be Trekking, Kayaking & Caving Tour
3 days guided adventure beyond the ordinary
3 days $229 – $499 ppHiking in Ba Be National Park itinerary
Hanoi to Ba Be National Park
Day 1 in Hanoi
Depart Hanoi in the early morning for the journey north to Ba Be National Park, a drive of approximately five to six hours through a changing landscape of flat farmland, mountain foothills and tea plantations. En route, it’s possible to stop at a roadside village for lunch.
In the afternoon, continue into the heart of Ba Be, a protected area known for its limestone karst landscapes, thick forest, and freshwater lake. From the park entrance, continue by road to the lakeside village of Cốc Tộc, home to members of the Tay ethnic minority. The Tay here live in stilt houses and maintain a subsistence lifestyle based around fishing and rice cultivation.
An overnight stay in a local homestay provides an introduction to Tay architecture and daily routines. After settling in, there’s time to explore the immediate surroundings on foot. You can take a short excursion to Hua Ma Cave, a large cavern featuring tall chambers and numerous limestone formations. If there’s time you can also take a short walk, a bike ride, or go kayaking on the lake.
Trekking through Ba Be National Park
Day 2 in Ba Be National Park
Begin the day with a trek through the hills and forest around Ba Be. The route begins near Cốc Tộc village, following local paths across the Pê Lù Stream and climbing into the surrounding highlands. The terrain becomes steeper here, with panoramic views of the park’s limestone outcrops and valleys opening up at higher elevations.
The walk passes through several ethnic minority villages, including settlements of the H’mong and Dzao peoples. Stop for a picnic lunch in one of the villages. In some cases, there may be the opportunity to visit a local school or community space, although this depends on local schedules and accessibility.
Later in the afternoon, return on foot to Cốc Tộc, descending via a different route if conditions allow. Total trekking time varies depending on the specific path taken, but generally ranges from five to six hours.
Trekking distance: 12–15 km on forest trails and village tracks.
Ba Be Lake and Return to Hanoi
Day 3 in Hanoi
After breakfast, head out onto Ba Be Lake. This is the park’s central feature: a calm, freshwater lake flanked by forested limestone cliffs and home to all sorts of bird and marine life. You can swim in designated areas when weather and water levels permit.
Continue along the Năng River to Puông Cave (Động Puông), a natural tunnel that cuts through a mountain ridge. The cave features large limestone formations and is home to a substantial bat population. Boat access through the cave is dependent on water conditions but is usually possible year-round.
Most people head back to Hanoi on the afternoon of day three, but there’s nothing stopping you from staying for longer enjoying the lake, exploring the caves, or hiking and cycling trails.
Hiking in Ba Be National Park: Need to know
How to get there from Hanoi
The easiest way is to book a tourist bus (allow around five to six hours for the journey). A few companies offer daily departures. You can, of course, also take the public buses, but with changes and minimal comfort that won't help if you don't speak a few words of Vietnamese. You can also rent a car with a driver for greater flexibility (but it's more expensive).
Where to stay
You'll find a wide choice of options, from friendly homestays with local people to small, comfortable hotels located around the lake or in the surrounding villages. I highly recommend the homestay experience, for its immersive feel. Personally, I almost always stay at the Be Be Jungle Houses.
When to visit Ba Be National Park
Spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) are the ideal times to visit Ba Be. Temperatures are pleasant, and the scenery is particularly attractive. Summer (June-August) can be hot and humid, with the risk of rain. Winter (December-February) is very often cool and gloomy.
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