Trekking in Sa Pa

Sapa to Ta Van village trek

Pierre Enderlin

Sapa, the Vietnam hiking capital, has become Instagram famous thanks to its scenic rice terraces, steep mountains and narrow valleys which are home to tribal communities that have lived here for centuries.

Sadly badly-regulated tourism has ruined much of the appeal of the immediate Sapa area, and most day hikes don't get you beyond the over-developed and touristy bustle. Today, there are serious concerns about over-tourism, unbridled development and respect, with many villages and the famed Bac Ha Sunday Market becoming little better than human zoos.

This is all the more unfortunate as it doesn’t take much extra effort to get outside the touristy bubble. This trek gets slightly further off the well-worn path and into some more remote regions where traditions are kept alive by authenticity, not as a performance for visitors.

You’ll walk along winding trails, past terraced rice fields, through the homes of ethnic groups like the H’mong, Dzao, and Zay, and experience a way of life that has changed little over generations. Spend the night at a homestay in Ta Van Village and get to know your hosts without any rush or performance.

Fansipan ascent

Pierre Enderlin

Dominating the majestic Hoang Lien Son mountain range to the west of Sa Pa is Fansipan mountain (Phan Xi Păng in Vietnamese script). At 3,147 metres, Fansipan is the highest mountain in Indochina, and its commanding position overlooking green valleys and terraced rice paddies draws hikers by the bus load, making this a popular – sometimes too popular – trek from Sa Pa town.

There are three routes to the summit, each with their own pros and cons:

Tram Ton, at 11km over two days/one night, is the fastest and most direct route to the summit. Ideal for beginners, this popular trail offers a gradual ascent, with campsites for rest and spectacular panoramic views. It’s about seven hours up to the top, and six hours down the next day.

Sin Chai is just 9km but is done over two or three days as the terrain is technical, with dense vegetation and steep sections. This is the wildest and most challenging route – for experienced trekkers only.

Cat Cat is the longest route, 20 kilometres done over three to four days. This one is another challenge, although less technical. This is my favourite route, for the complete immersion in the scenery and exceptional panoramic views.

The fourth option, which involves no real hiking at all, is to take the cable car to the summit. Personally, I find the summit itself – with its crowds of day-trippers, modern temple, shops and services – to be the least interesting part of the experience. Especially when cloud cover is obscuring the view! If your only interest is ticking off the summit without putting in the work of getting there, I’d gently steer you elsewhere.

Finally, a word of caution: trekking here is all conducted under the auspices of the Hoang Lien Son National Park authorities – even if you’ve booked through a trekking operator, they won’t have any control over the guides or porters selected for your group. There are reports of guides and workers contributing to the mountain’s growing litter problem and base camps/camping sites being poorly maintained. This isn’t to warn you off – just make sure you come with open eyes and do your bit to maintain the sanctity of the environment.