Hiking in Kenya's Mathews Mountains
Trekking in a true hidden gem
Most visitors on safari in Kenya flock south, heading towards the Mara and other big-name safari parks. For first-timers, the scorched deserts of northern Kenya might not seem quite so enticing in comparison to the lush forests and wildlife-packed savannahs to the south. But when I talk to intrepid souls on the hunt for real adventure, I always suggest they head in the opposite direction, where you’ll find some real hidden gems far removed from the busy safari circuits to the south.
The road north towards Ethiopia is an excellent tarmac road that heads through the sunbaked landscapes of the Samburu National Reserve and skirts Ololokwe, the sacred mountain of the Samburu people. Eventually you turn off the paved road and onto a bone-shaking dirt track which leads to the ‘sky island’ of the Mathews Range, also called the Lenkiyio or Lengeyo hills in the local Samburu language. These hills of green montane forests rise out of the desert where they offer welcome sanctuary for elephants, myriad birds and prehistoric cycads.
I love to visit the Mathews for a short hiking break, where you’ll see no other tourists – in fact not a glimpse of anyone except for the occasional Samburu herdsman who have lived here since time immemorial.
Key information
| Destinations | Mathews Range |
|---|---|
| Activity | Safari, Adventure, Trekking, Active, Walking, Nature & Wildlife, Responsible Travel, Slow Travel |
| Physical Level | Mild |
Hiking in Kenya's Mathews Mountains itinerary
Nairobi - Nanyuki
Day 1 in Nairobi
Fly north from Nairobi Wilson Airport to Nanyuki, the flight takes about an hour. Break the journey up in Ololokwe, around 2.5 hours from Nanyuki and a good stopping off point on the way to the Mathews. I recommend Sabache Eco Camp, an authentic community camp run by local Samburu people. It is not a luxury safari lodge, but the tents are spacious and comfortable with ensuite bathrooms. You can relax at the camp, or take a short guided hike in the area.
Ololokwe - Mathews
Day 2 in Ololokwe
Complete the drive to the Mathews. The first half hour is on a tarmac road and the final two hours on a rough road across a few small seasonal rivers. I recommend staying at Kitich Forest Camp, which has just eight tents, and in many ways harks back to a previous era from ordering your hot bucket shower to your early morning tea tray arriving outside your tent at the agreed hour.
Hiking in the Mathews
Day 3–4 in Mathews Range
I suggest staying for three nights to get the most from the visit. Spend your days walking through the forest with Samburu guides, made more exciting by the anticipation of meeting wildlife although the trackers deftly steer you away from bumping into elephants.
Don’t forget your swimming things as it’s possible to swim in the river. Daytime temperatures are hot, but the river is typical of any mountain river – very cold! This was a highlight for me – swimming in a pristine river with not a soul in sight except for our Samburu guides chatting nearby.
Return to Nairobi
Day 5 in Nairobi
Return to Samburu Kalama Airstrip for the return flight to Nairobi Wilson.
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