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Welcome to Western USA

The insider's travel guide to Western USA

The American West. Just the words conjure up an indefinable magic. You might feel you know the West thanks to countless movies, books and songs, but it remains a region impossible to pin down. That’s not surprising since it’s larger, and more varied and diverse, than many countries. Spectacular, invigorating and welcoming, yet with its dark sides, you could visit the American West 100 times and see it anew each time.

First the magic: There’s always a deserted highway, running straight as an arrow through shimmering desert. There’s otherworldly Death Valley—no-one who visits it ever forgets the experience. And no-one ever forgets, perhaps for different reasons, Las Vegas, the bizarre temple to hedonism, which you’ll either love or hate.

You won’t want to miss Monument Valley, by any standards one of the world’s great sights, and the real star of so many of John Ford’s Westerns. But then what would you want to miss? Yosemite or Yellowstone? the Grand Canyon? the 1,000 miles of Pacific coastline? the fabulous food, wine and microbrews? Somehow fitting it all into one trip is the first major challenge.

Of course you’ll want to give a wide berth to the parts of the West scarred by recent wildfires, and there’s no point trying to disguise the fact that the big cities have their problems. But still, there's so much here to delight in.

Los Angeles is big and brash, it's got Hollywood and Beverly Hills and the (slim) chance of spotting an A-lister. San Francisco, the home of the beats, can be cool, arty and uplifting. In one park you might see people reading books of poetry in the sun. In others, best avoided, you’ll get a glimpse of the city’s problem with homelessness. Farther north, Portland and Seattle are vibrant cities, each boasting their own thriving cultural scenes—but also, unfortunately, their share of homelessness.

The region has its problems, just like everywhere else in the world. But there’s that magic too. Culture, history, fun and adventure: it’s all there waiting for you in the great American West.

So you think you know the West? Get the motor running, head out on the highway, and find the adventure you’re looking for. It may be a switchback ride, but you’ll never forget it.

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The Western USA atlas

5 picks Places & Experiences You Won't Find Elsewhere
Where
What

  • Best trek for: A physical challenge through extraordinary backcountryDifficulty: StrenuousTrek duration: 18 to 21 daysMax. elevation: 4,421mAccommodation: CampingStart/end point: Happy Isles to Whitney Portal One of the USA's epic treks, the John Muir Trail (JMT) is a 211 miles (339 km) hike in California's Sierra Nevada. The trail passes through several national parks, including Yosemite, Kings Canyon, and Sequoia national parks, finishing with a sublime summit hike on Mount Whitney. This golden nugget of a trail is known for its dramatic landscape. Upon each alpine pass, the eyes are treated to mountain ranges extending in all directions, filled in by meadows and serene lakes. Need to know JMT will challenge most hikers, both mentally and physically. The trail is known for its tricky logistic, unforgiving terrain, unpredictable weather, and fire conditions. In addition, you must obtain trekking permits in advance. Resupplying on the JMT is more complex and expensive than most linear treks. It requires pre-planning and parcel drops to designated campsites. I advise all but the most intrepid to do it with an organised operator who will take care of the logistics on your behalf.

  • Two weeks is perfect to see the best of America’s wild west and its natural wonders, as well as the region’s most popular cities. From Los Angeles travel through the vast deserts of Arizona, stopping to admire the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley and Lake Powell beside Glen Canyon Dam. You will go on to Bryce Canyon to see its sandstone spires before spending a couple of nights experiencing the best of Las Vegas. Continue your journey to Death Valley, Mammoth Lakes and Yosemite National Park where you can spot black bears and coyotes. San Francisco is your next city stop before exploring the rest of the west coast, including Monterey, Carmel and Pismo Beach, and returning back to Los Angeles.

  • A popular self-drive route through California, calling at some popular and lesser-known locations. Explore the scenic towns that dot the Pacific coast, including Monterey, Carmel, Solvang and San Luis Obispo. Continue south through Malibu and Santa Monica (marking the end of the famous Historic Route 66, which is well worth following for part of your journey), not forgetting to enjoy some gorgeous beaches, before arriving in Los Angeles. Spend a couple of days enjoying the city before heading inland to experience flamboyant Las Vegas. Finish your trip off with a day or two enjoying the entertainment parks and beaches of San Diego.

  • This route takes you from Los Angeles through the deserts of the wild west and to the region’s most fascinating ecosystems. Travel through the Sonoran Desert, the most species-rich desert in North America, before stopping to explore Grand Canyon National Park where you can learn about its history and culture. Continue your journey to Lake Powell, Bryce Canyon National Park, and Zion National Park to see the region’s unique rock formations. Go on to spend a couple of days in Las Vegas before hiking and wildlife-watching in Yosemite National Park, where you can see bobcats and black bears. End your journey in coastal San Francisco.

  • Experience the best of northern California in a short time, beginning in San Francisco, famous for the Golden Gate Bridge, a lively nightlife and, of course, Alcatraz island. Explore by bike, segway or on foot before continuing your journey to Yosemite National Park, where you can spend days hiking, cycling, nature watching or even climbing. Continue on to the snowy Sierra Nevada to enjoy spectacular mountain views and historic Gold Rush towns before stopping at Lake Tahoe for a few days of hiking or relaxation. Finally, your journey comes to an end back in San Francisco.

  • The John Muir Trail

    The John Muir Trail

  • Discover Western USA

    Discover Western USA

  • Self-drive California

    Self-drive California

  • The best of the American West

    The best of the American West

  • Tour northern California

    Tour northern California

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