The American West. Just the words conjure up an indefinable magic. You might feel you know the West thanks to countless movies, books and songs, but it remains a region impossible to pin down. That’s not surprising since it’s larger, and more varied and diverse, than many countries. Spectacular, invigorating and welcoming, yet with its dark sides, you could visit the American West 100 times and see it anew each time.

First the magic: There’s always a deserted highway, running straight as an arrow through shimmering desert. There’s otherworldly Death Valley—no-one who visits it ever forgets the experience. And no-one ever forgets, perhaps for different reasons, Las Vegas, the bizarre temple to hedonism, which you’ll either love or hate.

You won’t want to miss Monument Valley, by any standards one of the world’s great sights, and the real star of so many of John Ford’s Westerns. But then what would you want to miss? Yosemite or Yellowstone? the Grand Canyon? the 1,000 miles of Pacific coastline? the fabulous food, wine and microbrews? Somehow fitting it all into one trip is the first major challenge.

Of course you’ll want to give a wide berth to the parts of the West scarred by recent wildfires, and there’s no point trying to disguise the fact that the big cities have their problems. But still, there's so much here to delight in.

Los Angeles is big and brash, it's got Hollywood and Beverly Hills and the (slim) chance of spotting an A-lister. San Francisco, the home of the beats, can be cool, arty and uplifting. In one park you might see people reading books of poetry in the sun. In others, best avoided, you’ll get a glimpse of the city’s problem with homelessness. Farther north, Portland and Seattle are vibrant cities, each boasting their own thriving cultural scenes—but also, unfortunately, their share of homelessness.

The region has its problems, just like everywhere else in the world. But there’s that magic too. Culture, history, fun and adventure: it’s all there waiting for you in the great American West.

So you think you know the West? Get the motor running, head out on the highway, and find the adventure you’re looking for. It may be a switchback ride, but you’ll never forget it.