River cruising in Europe

Ever since my first European river cruise in 1999 I have enjoyed life in the slow lane: soaking in the constantly changing scenery, calling at poetic cities and picturesque towns. River cruising provides a gentler balance to today’s hectic, jet-fuelled modes of tourism, and is far removed from the brash consumption of mega ocean cruise ships.

River cruise vessels (they are not called ships – a term reserved for ocean-going ships) are flat-bottomed, designed to navigate inland waterways. They glide rather than sail. They carry between 50 and 320 passengers, and are more like a cosy inn than a large resort hotel. Unlike with ocean cruising, the sights and experiences on land matter just as much as what you do on board.

For me, a good European river cruise is about total immersion in the continent’s culture, geography, history, great food, and classical music. In my opinion, nothing beats a relaxed meander through the world of Bartok, Brahms, Liszt and Strauss. I’ve taken over 40 Europe river cruises in my lifetime and in the following pages I’ll share some of what I’ve learned over the decades. Happy cruising!

River cruise vessels are long, narrow, and have a flat bottom because their design is governed by the size of the locks (to raise or lower the water level) they need to negotiate, the bridges they need to sail under, and the depth of the river itself (they also carry one or two lifeboats in case of emergency).

It is easy to find your way around – there are typically only two or three decks, a mix of cabins and public rooms, plus an open, upper deck.

Almost all cabins have floor-to-ceiling windows, except those on the lowest accommodation deck. Some cabins have a narrow balcony to step onto (don’t even think of hanging any washing on the balcony!). Closet space is limited, so pack light.

Bathrooms tend to be compact, and have glassed-in (or waterproof-curtained) shower enclosures, although a few newer vessels, such as Crystal Bach, Crystal Debussy, Crystal Mahler, Crystal Ravel, have some oversized bathrooms with bathtubs (and even a simulated fireplace in the lounge area).

Many vessels have poor cabin insulation, so you may hear your neighbours clearly, plus noise from closet doors and bedside table drawers being opened and closed. If your cabin is directly under the open (top) deck, there may be noise from handrails being lowered due to the vessel sailing under a low bridge, and then when they are raised again.

All river cruise companies offer guided excursions and activities at each stop. This ranges from tours of historic sites, city tours, wine tasting at vineyards, cultural events, or simply borrowing/renting a bike to explore by yourself.

Most river cruise lines include some excursions in the price, and they may have a range of optional premium excursions you can book. They’ll typically last a few hours in the morning or afternoon, depending on the river, estimate arrival and departure times, and local conditions. It’s best to book your excursions when you book your cruise, as availability might be limited once you depart.

Because food storage and preparation space is limited, all passengers eat at the same time (unlike aboard large oceangoing ships).

In the restaurant, breakfast and lunch are usually buffet-style; dinner is typically a sit-down meal, except for the first night (depending on the river cruise company). Dinner menu choices are limited, but typically include an appetiser, soup, choice of one or two main courses, and dessert.

Some of the newer vessels have a small additional dining room aft (at no extra cost, but it’s best to book early because of the limited seating). Room service meals are not generally provided (unless someone is unwell) because the number of crew is limited (they also live aboard).

There is little entertainment because the vessels are small, and lounge headroom is limited. There are no colourful shows – these are the domain of large ocean-going resort ships, but some light musical entertainment may occasionally be provided from shoreside when your vessel is docked at night.

In my experience, the atmosphere on board is generally convivial, and there may be a mix of languages spoken, depending on the operator.

Lots of river cruise itineraries aren’t suitable for those with mobility problems – older European cities and towns have limited infrastructure for the mobility limited, and in busy docking places, vessels tie up next to each other and you may have to cross over gangplanks. Ships may not be able to accommodate wheelchairs or mobility scooters. If any of this applies to you, I’d recommend you start your search with lines who can accommodate your needs.

On a European river cruise, you’ll see destinations and ports inaccessible to ocean going vessels. Rivers can, however, have too much or too little water, so you may not always be able to travel, or complete your planned journey. For example, when there’s heavy snow in Austria, the runoff streams into the Danube, causing havoc to river levels, dam and bridge operations. Cruise lines will have contingency plans: they may transfer you by bus to another vessel further up/downstream, they may modify your itinerary, they may switch you to a land tour, or simply cancel and refund the cruise.

Having had this happen to me more than once, you will need to be open-minded and flexible enough to appreciate that nature is in charge. Check with the cruise line on their contingency plans and make sure your insurance covers trip interruptions/cancellations.

Expect to pay between USD 250 and 700 per person per day, more on a high end or luxury cruise (airfares/train fares not included).

River cruises cost more compared to ocean-going cruises because the cost of passage through each lock adds to operational costs, and everything is on a much smaller scale. They often dock in the centre of a city/town at assigned docking stations booked well in advance. Some excursions are almost always included, depending on the line, but going it alone is good, too.

What is included in the price varies from company to company, but generally you’d expect accommodation, all meals, wine during mealtimes, and some excursions to be included.

Always included in a river cruise are your accommodation (depending on the company, there may be tea/coffee making facilities in your cabin), and meals (breakfasts and lunches are typically self-serve buffets), with a waiter-served dinner each evening, plus wine or other drinks during mealtimes (depending on the company).

You can book directly with a cruise line if you know exactly what you want. But in my experience, the best way to book is via a specialist cruise travel agency. They will offer you the most suitable recommendations and will have the latest information about early or last minute discounts. (Last minute deals are rare, because the number of passengers they can carry is small, unlike ocean-going cruise ships. If you want a deal it’s best to book far in advance.)

Also, you’d be mad to not add a buffer day prior to departure – especially if arriving by air. You don’t want to miss your embarkation and departure. And to repeat an above comment: ensure your travel insurance covers disruption and cancellations!

There are pros and cons to the various seasons:

Spring is good for fewer tourists in the main hotspots, and potentially lower rates. March to April is tulip season in the Netherlands, which is a delight. On the other hand water levels are unpredictable, with an elevated chance of disruption.

Summer is peak season across Europe and is a good time for wine focused cruises in the Rhine, Moselle, and Bordeaux regions. You might think it’s best to avoid the busy cities in summer but actually being on a cruise helps you bypass overbooked hotels and the worst of the crowds.

Autumn (fall) is good for fewer crowds in the cities and is also the grape harvest season in wine regions. If you’re lucky the weather will still be comfortable. This is my favourite time for a Europe river cruise.

And finally, I have enjoyed several Rhine river cruises over Christmas. The atmosphere is magical, with German cities and towns such as Cologne, Koblenz, and Rudesheim pulling out all the stops with stalls and displays.

Note that most river cruise vessels don’t sail in January and February, because vessel maintenance and preparation take place for the following season.