Most Passage cruises start in Toronto (usually including a charter flight to Greenland) with charter flights from Resolute or Cambridge Bay to Calgary, Canada. Cruises traversing the entire Passage may end in Anchorage, Alaska. East Greenland cruises tend to start and end in Reykjavik, Iceland; Svalbard cruises begin from its capital Longyearbyen or Oslo, Norway. North Pole cruises also depart from Longyearbyen.
Whether flights are included or not depends on the line or itinerary. As a general rule, luxury lines such as Scenic are more inclusive. Flights mentioned in itineraries, usually charters, will be included, as is the case for AE Expeditions and Quark Expeditions.
Book flights 24 hours before and after your cruise, in case of delays. I learnt this the hard way; on a Passage cruise, I booked a flight leaving Calgary at 8pm for the UK, knowing I’d disembark in Resolute Bay at 9am. That gave me nine hours before check-in, right? Wrong – I hadn’t factored in the multi-hour charter flight from the bay to Calgary, so I had to pay for a second return flight.
Pack suncream, Merino thermals and waterproof everything. A mosquito face net may come in handy, as will a zoom camera and binoculars so you needn’t share the ship’s (if they’re even provided). Consider convertible mittens or touchscreen photo gloves, plus an elasticated hood that stays up in the wind. Leave your drone behind: lines such as Oceanwide Expeditions and Swan Hellenic forbid them, and they’re banned in Svalbard’s protected areas.
A note about greenwashing
Small ship expedition cruising is a world away from the mega resort style cruise ships that ply (and pollute) the oceans, and cause immense disruption to the local ports they call at.
But still, from an environmental point of view, it’s hard to justify even a lower impact expedition cruise. You must still fly to and from your embarkation point, the vessel will likely be powered by marine diesel oil or liquefied natural gas and it may leave a trail of broken ice in its wake. The Arctic warmed four times faster than anywhere else between 1979 and 2021 according to Communications Earth & Environment, and yet The Arctic Council reports that 483 more ships sailed there in 2024 compared to 2013 – a 37 per cent increase.
Cruise lines are well aware of how this looks, and they all make various commitments to try and lessen their environmental impact. Some lines operate foundations for wildlife conservation, remote communities, and reforestation schemes. Ships may boast various “sustainability” measures such as bio-degradable paint, low energy systems, removing single use plastic, etc.
But when you account for the net environmental costs, there’s no escaping the hard reality that this is still a pretty damaging activity. We’re not here to lecture, and it’s a personal decision – but make your judgement unswayed by the “sustainability” greenwashing.
The best times for an Arctic expedition cruise
Most expeditions run during the northern hemisphere’s summer. Your priorities will dictate the month you choose.
January to March is best for the aurora borealis in Norway, and Hurtigruten has a specific themed itinerary.
By May, you can spot polar bear cubs in Svalbard, and still experience pack ice. But if you want to circumnavigate the archipelago or North Pole, cruise between June and August.
In July and August, the Passage and Greenland have abundant wildlife. That’s when I visited, although ice conditions changed our route from two days in Greenland to six. With continuous daylight and temperatures up to 10°C, it’s a beautiful time of year: I saw Arctic cotton meadows and hiked over bouncy tundra. I was often hot in my Arctic jacket, although I still got my iceberg fix at Ilulissat. Mosquitos were the only menace (along with polar bears…). This is also the time to see whales and migratory birds. It’s ideal for birdwatching in Svalbard, too.
On 12 August 2026, a solar eclipse will sweep across east Greenland; HX Hurtigruten Expeditions has a dedicated eclipse cruise.
September is darker, making the aurora more visible in the Passage, Greenland and Norway. But it can also be foggy, and some birds and whales may have migrated south.
Whenever you go, expect some dreary skies and rough seas. This is the Arctic, after all.
Who it's for (and not for)
Expedition cruises are poles apart from river and ocean cruises – so don’t expect to simply walk onto land like on river cruises, or to spend your evenings in the onboard casino as on resort-style cruise ships.
Even though expedition cruises depart in summer, adverse weather will likely change your route. As with ocean cruises, particularly transatlantic ones, the sea can be rough. Crossing Baffin Bay took me two days instead of the expected one. Crew placed paper bags every two metres in hallways, and public spaces emptied as guests retreated to their cabins – probably being seasick, like me.
Maddie Phillips, Cutty Sark’s shipkeeping technician, says: “Prevent seasickness by consuming crystallised ginger or ginger tea, and avoid getting too hot, cold, hungry or thirsty. Go to the loo, look at the horizon and do Cawthorne-Cooksey exercises to soothe dizziness – look up and down slowly then quickly; shrug your shoulders and throw and catch a ball above your head. Other sailors swear by the antihistamine Clarityn.”
How to choose an Arctic expedition cruise
Think about what you want to get out of your cruise. Do you want to see polar bears, visit the North Pole, or meet indigenous people? Can you afford a luxurious ship, or must you settle for an older one?
When choosing a line, consider attitudes to responsible tourism. I admire AE Expeditions’. At Prince Leopold Island, my expedition leader said the permit wasn’t clear on how fast Zodiacs could go, so he stuck to five knots; he welcomed Niaqornat residents on board for a cultural exchange; asked us to not take alcohol on shore as some communities have problems with it; and reminded us to consider how we’d feel if strangers took our photo without asking.
Ships with 100 to 200 guests may have mud rooms (changing rooms), libraries, cinema screens, citizen science laboratories, saunas, Jacuzzis and pools, as well as more guests to talk to. But bigger ships have longer mealtime and Zodiac queues, and hundreds of passengers can overwhelm indigenous settlements.
Ships with 12 to 16 guests such as Secret Atlas’s are more intimate, while others rely on sails to reduce carbon emissions. Alasdair says, “North Sailing sail to Scoresby Sound in Greenland on two-mast boats which access bays small cruise ships can’t. You’ll help work the boat, and eat local food.” Schooner Hildur carries nine passengers, while the silent electric Schooner Opal won’t frighten wildlife.
If seeing polar bears is a priority, Svalbard offers the best chance, as it’s compact compared to the vastness of Canada, Greenland and Russia. However, since January 2025, expedition ships must stay 300m from polar bears most of the time, and 500m between March and June. If you happen to be in the vicinity of one, you may not feel the sense of wonder you expect while observing it through wobbly binoculars from the distance of five football fields.
Icebreaking ships are categorised into seven polar classes (PC), ranging from hardy PC1 for year-round polar cruises to PC7, which can cope with thin ice in summer. Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot, which cruises to the North Pole, is PC2.
My top priority is always the itinerary. Travel is my life’s work, my passion, and I’d sacrifice comfort for fewer sea days, longer time in ports and new experiences.
How to book an Arctic cruise
Travel agents decipher jargon and explain what is and isn’t included. They’re a single point of contact should you need to rebook, and may have access to deals that aren’t public. Ensure they’re accredited by ABTA (Association of British Travel Agents) and ATOL (Air Travel Organiser’s Licence); the former offers financial protection if your travel provider goes bust, while the latter also covers packages with flights.
However, a commission or other rewards may sway their advice, and they can cost more than booking independently. If you’re a seasoned cruise-goer who enjoys researching, feel free to book direct. But you must book flights with a single airline; otherwise, delays may mean you miss your connecting flight and you won’t be put on the next one. Most insurance policies don’t cover missed connections.
How much do Arctic expedition cruises cost?
Prices depend on the line; length of cruise; itinerary; whether or not flights, pre- or post-cruise hotel stays, excursions, Wi-Fi and alcohol are included; and how and when you book.
When buying a cabin for two in advance online, typical per person prices without international flights range from $16,000 to $22,000 for a 13-16 day Passage itinerary and $25,000 to $31,500 for a 23-29-day itinerary.
Ten to 12 days in Greenland, or Iceland to east Greenland, will cost $8,600 to $16,500.
Expect eight to 10 days in Arctic Norway to be $8,600 to $15,300, and seven to 10 days in Svalbard to be $7,300 to $16,00. At the time of writing, Ponant’s 16-day North Pole itinerary starts at $45,600, including flights from Paris.
‘All inclusive’ doesn’t usually mean all inclusive. Excursions might be extra; if Wi-Fi is included, it may be limited to one device; and if alcohol is included, it rarely includes premium brands, or only includes beer or wine at dinner. Many lines add service charges or tips to your bill, adding $15 per person, per day to your cruise. You’re not required to pay them but you might feel awkward requesting their removal.
Arctic expedition cruise deals
Increase your chances of bagging a deal by booking early – and by early, I mean a year in advance. Discounted fares or complementary perks are likely during ‘Wave Season’ from January to March. It’s usually cheaper for two people to share a cabin, although some lines forgo single supplements. Quark Expedition’s Ultramarine has six Solo Panorama cabins designed for solo travellers, while Oceanwide Expeditions offers dorms with one or two bunks with portholes to reduce costs. You can also do without a window on some Hurtigruten Norway and Svalbard sailings.
