Bwindi vies with Volcanoes National Park as Africa's best all-round gorilla tracking destination. Its densely forested slopes are home to 45% of the world’s mountain gorilla population, and a total of 23 habituated groups means that 180-plus permits are available daily. True, tracking conditions are generally less predictable than they are in Rwanda, and the denser foliage can sometimes make it more difficult to obtain clear views. But this is mitigated by the fact that permits are less than half the price (in other words, you could track here on two successive days and pay less than you would for a single excursion in Rwanda) and by the park’s relative accessibility to independent travellers.

Be aware that there are four discrete tracking hubs in Bwindi. Each hub is serviced by its own cluster of lodges, so it is important you coordinate your permit and accommodation booking around the same place. The oldest hub is Buhoma, which usually offers the easiest hiking conditions, is accessible on public transport, and has the widest range of accommodation (from luxury lodges to simple local guesthouses) but is also the most likely for permits to be booked solid months in advance. Nkuringo hub offers the most challenging tracking (almost always bookended by a steep one-hour descent and two-hour ascent). Rushaga has the most permits, with 9 habituated groups resident, so it is good for last minute bookings. Ruhija is the only tracking hub set deep within the park, rather than on the periphery, which makes it highly alluring for other wildlife and birding.