Montenegro
Ancient towns cut into majestic mountains
Tiny Montenegro has long been touted as the hot, new travel destination – and it’s easy to see why. The scenery is spectacular, with almost 300km of coastline, rugged, snow-capped mountains and pretty towns cut into the rock all waiting to be explored.
While it’s worth spending time on Montenegro’s excellent beaches, the real adventure comes inland. Head into the Durmitor and Prokletije mountain range and you’ll be able to hike, bike and kayak in forests and national parks that are still home to bears and wolves – it’s like stepping back into a fairytale.
This is also a place to explore some fascinating European history, as a dividing line between the east and west – and also the place that sealed the end of Yugoslavia, with a successful independence referendum in 2006. Look for frescoed monasteries, elegant mosques and imposing Catholic churches, as well as a number of hilltop fortresses.
Hidden gems in Montenegro
Balkans
Via Dinarica White Trail
ExperienceNewly waymarked – and with sibling Green and Blue Trails on the way – this epic ‘mega trail’ through the Dinaric Alps links northern Albania with Slovenia via Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Croatia. Don’t expect polish; do expect rewarding and sometimes remote trekking. The trail isn’t generally sold as a commercial thru-hike, but trekking specialists will organise self-guided or guided treks along different segments of the trail. The Via Dinarica is actually three separate trails, with the main, so-called White Trail, following the spine of the Dinaric Alps as closely as possible. The Blue and Green trails follow lower routes and are less complete. The White Trail, described here, through Bosnia and Hezegovina is the most developed so far, stretching a more modest 333km and taking around two weeks to complete. Starting from Prisika on the Croatian border, the trail leads past Lake Buško with a fair amount of road walking. It passes through an area riddled with limestone caves, many that can be visited as detours. After crossing Mt Vran, the trail leads through the beautiful landscape of Blidinje Nature Park and over Mt Čvrsnica, with its distinctive rock-eye known as Hajdučka vrata. Next up, the trail crosses Prenj, a fabulous mountain area bristling with limestone peaks that requires at least two days. Passing beside Lake Boračko, it follows the edge of the Rakitnica Canyon to reach the Ljuta Valley, then skirts the southern slopes of Mt Treskavica. The final part of the White Trail in Bosnia is a two-stage hike across the beautiful landscape of Sutjeska National Park. Including Maglić, the highest mountain in Bosnia that can be climbed as a detour, the park features primeval forests, lush pastures and rocky peaks. After some awe-inspiring views from the border ridge, the route drops down to Lake Trnovačko, set amongst the epic sprawl of mountains that is Montenegro. Need to know The hiking season for the White Trail through Bosnia and Herzegovina is June to October. Bosnia and some parts of Croatia near the Bosnian border have areas with landmines. The trails on the Via Dinarica are perfectly safe, but it’s something you need to be aware of. Under no circumstances should you wander into areas where there are warning signs.
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