Montenegro
Ancient towns cut into majestic mountains
Welcome to Montenegro
The insider's travel guide to MontenegroTiny Montenegro has long been touted as the hot, new travel destination – and it’s easy to see why. The scenery is spectacular, with almost 300km of coastline, rugged, snow-capped mountains and pretty towns cut into the rock all waiting to be explored.
While it’s worth spending time on Montenegro’s excellent beaches, the real adventure comes inland. Head into the Durmitor and Prokletije mountain range and you’ll be able to hike, bike and kayak in forests and national parks that are still home to bears and wolves – it’s like stepping back into a fairytale.
This is also a place to explore some fascinating European history, as a dividing line between the east and west – and also the place that sealed the end of Yugoslavia, with a successful independence referendum in 2006. Look for frescoed monasteries, elegant mosques and imposing Catholic churches, as well as a number of hilltop fortresses.
Where to go in Montenegro
Highlights & hidden gemsThe Montenegro atlas
7 picks Places & Experiences You Won't Find Elsewhere-
Difficulty: StrenuousDuration: Three weeks+, or shorter segmentsAccommodation: Guesthouses & mountain hutsStart/end point: Razdrto (Slovenia) / Valbone Valley (Albania) Newly waymarked – and with sibling Green and Blue Trails on the way – this epic ‘mega trail’ through the Dinaric Alps links northern Albania with Slovenia via Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Croatia. Don’t expect polish; do expect rewarding and sometimes remote trekking. The trail isn’t generally sold as a commercial thru-hike, but trekking specialists will organise self-guided or guided treks along different segments of the trail. The Via Dinarica is actually three separate trails, with the main, so-called White Trail, following the spine of the Dinaric Alps as closely as possible. The Blue and Green trails follow lower routes and are less complete. The White Trail, described here, through Bosnia and Hezegovina is the most developed so far, stretching a more modest 333km and taking around two weeks to complete. Starting from Prisika on the Croatian border, the trail leads past Lake Buško with a fair amount of road walking. It passes through an area riddled with limestone caves, many that can be visited as detours. After crossing Mt Vran, the trail leads through the beautiful landscape of Blidinje Nature Park and over Mt Čvrsnica, with its distinctive rock-eye known as Hajdučka vrata. Next up, the trail crosses Prenj, a fabulous mountain area bristling with limestone peaks that requires at least two days. Passing beside Lake Boračko, it follows the edge of the Rakitnica Canyon to reach the Ljuta Valley, then skirts the southern slopes of Mt Treskavica. The final part of the White Trail in Bosnia is a two-stage hike across the beautiful landscape of Sutjeska National Park. Including Maglić, the highest mountain in Bosnia that can be climbed as a detour, the park features primeval forests, lush pastures and rocky peaks. After some awe-inspiring views from the border ridge, the route drops down to Lake Trnovačko, set amongst the epic sprawl of mountains that is Montenegro. Need to know The hiking season for the White Trail through Bosnia and Herzegovina is June to October. Bosnia and some parts of Croatia near the Bosnian border have areas with landmines. The trails on the Via Dinarica are perfectly safe, but it’s something you need to be aware of. Under no circumstances should you wander into areas where there are warning signs.
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Begin in Croatia’s iconic Dubrovnik, exploring the city’s old town walls and sailing or swimming in the Adriatic’s deep blue waters. Spend a day exploring Konavle Valley’s vineyards and seafood restaurants before travelling into Montenegro and the villages around Kotor Bay. Head into Albania and bike around the ancient city of Shkodra, taking in lake views before exploring the countryside and villages in the Drin Valley. Continue the nature theme with a day exploring Skadar National Park, where you can travel through fairytale villages and thick forests. Cross back into Montenegro at Lovcen National Park, where you can try ziplining and quad-biking, before ending back in Kotor Bay.
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Start in Trebinje, a pretty town similar to Dubrovnik but without the costs and tourists, before beginning your walking trip with the deep gorges of the Tara Canyon. It’s a short jump to Durmitor National Park, home to underground streams and more than 50 peaks – perfect for hiking in summer or skiing in winter. Travel to Biogradska Gora National Park, where you can explore ancient forests full of elm, maple and beech trees, before heading to the Balkans’ biggest lake – Lake Skadar. Here, you can see Albania across the water and look for pelicans on the Montenegrin side. An hour’s drive away is Lovcen National Park, where you can see orchids before climbing to the mountain-top mausoleum to St Peter – Montenegro’s most famous son. Travel down the mountain to the Bay of Kotor to explore its waterfront villages before ending in Dubrovnik.
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Start your exploration of Montenegro’s coastline in the royal capital of Cetinje, where you can visit Cetinje Monastery to pay your respects to St Peter, modern Montenegro’s founder. From here, head into Skadar National Park to explore its pretty villages, towering mountains and birdlife. Go wine-tasting in Virpazar before exploring the ruined fortress town of Stari Bar. Travel to Lovcen National Park for its excellent hiking and biking trails, before ending your trip in the stunning waterfront villages of Kotor Bay, making sure to see Kotor’s old town.
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Begin your journey across Montenegro at the Tara Canyon, one of the deepest gorges in Europe. Cycle along its trails, try rafting in the water or head up into the hills. Next, travel Durmitor National Park’s 50 plus peaks. Come in winter for skiing, or out of season for hiking and cycling. It’s a short step to manmade Lake Piva’s turquoise waters, where you can explore monasteries and Montenegrin villages. Take a break from your hiking/cycling in the vineyards of Virpazar, gateway town to Lake Skadar National Park. End your trip in the waterfront restaurants around Kotor Bay.
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Start your trip at Croatia’s Dubrovnik, exploring its old city walls, narrow lanes and Adriatic coastline, before crossing into Montenegro to hike around Durmitor National Park’s glacial lakes and enjoy its 50+ peaks. Travel to the nearby Tara Canyon for rafting or kayaking, before sampling the restaurants, pretty villages and relaxed culture of Kotor Bay. End your trip on the border with Albania at Lake Skadar National Park, where you can birdwatch, hike and taste local honey and wine.
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Montenegro’s excellent national parks offer plenty of hiking and adventure activities. Start in Durmitor National Park, with routes around the park’s glacial lakes and up to the 2,175m high peak of Crvena Greda. Head down to the Tara Canyon – the world’s second deepest gorge after the Grand Canyon – where you can raft or kayak on the water, before travelling into Biogradska Gora National Park to experience its ancient forests full of beech, maple and elm. From here, transfer to Lovcen National Park, where alongside hiking trails you can also go ziplining and quad-biking. End your trip by resting your weary feet at the waterfront restaurants lining the turquoise waters of Kotor Bay.
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Via Dinarica White Trail
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West Balkans in a week
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Mountain walks in Montenegro
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Exploring Montenegro’s coastline
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Cycling Montenegro’s canyons and coastlines
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Montenegro loop
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Hiking Montenegro’s national parks