Croatia
Dazzling coastlines
Welcome to Croatia
The insider's travel guide to CroatiaThere’s no hiding it — Croatia’s spectacular coastline is one of the best in the world. The water dazzles in shades of azure blue and emerald green, pebbly beaches provide a sharp contrast to the silky water, and islands stretch out into the sea waiting to be explored. It’s a beach holiday that dreams are made of.
But there’s much more to Croatia than that. Its strategic location between the rest of the Balkans and the central Europe of Italy has meant Croatia has often been in the crossfire of battle, leaving it both scarred and uplifted by its past invaders. You’ll see Roman ruins, Slavic churches and huge Venetian palaces all mixed in together.
What hasn’t changed is the welcome from the locals — while some beach destinations are getting over-crowded, much of Croatia is delightfully under-visited, particularly on its interior of rolling farmland and limestone mountains.
The Croatia atlas
6 picks Places & Experiences You Won't Find Elsewhere-
Difficulty: StrenuousDuration: Three weeks+, or shorter segmentsAccommodation: Guesthouses & mountain hutsStart/end point: Razdrto (Slovenia) / Valbone Valley (Albania) Newly waymarked – and with sibling Green and Blue Trails on the way – this epic ‘mega trail’ through the Dinaric Alps links northern Albania with Slovenia via Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Croatia. Don’t expect polish; do expect rewarding and sometimes remote trekking. The trail isn’t generally sold as a commercial thru-hike, but trekking specialists will organise self-guided or guided treks along different segments of the trail. The Via Dinarica is actually three separate trails, with the main, so-called White Trail, following the spine of the Dinaric Alps as closely as possible. The Blue and Green trails follow lower routes and are less complete. The White Trail, described here, through Bosnia and Hezegovina is the most developed so far, stretching a more modest 333km and taking around two weeks to complete. Starting from Prisika on the Croatian border, the trail leads past Lake Buško with a fair amount of road walking. It passes through an area riddled with limestone caves, many that can be visited as detours. After crossing Mt Vran, the trail leads through the beautiful landscape of Blidinje Nature Park and over Mt Čvrsnica, with its distinctive rock-eye known as Hajdučka vrata. Next up, the trail crosses Prenj, a fabulous mountain area bristling with limestone peaks that requires at least two days. Passing beside Lake Boračko, it follows the edge of the Rakitnica Canyon to reach the Ljuta Valley, then skirts the southern slopes of Mt Treskavica. The final part of the White Trail in Bosnia is a two-stage hike across the beautiful landscape of Sutjeska National Park. Including Maglić, the highest mountain in Bosnia that can be climbed as a detour, the park features primeval forests, lush pastures and rocky peaks. After some awe-inspiring views from the border ridge, the route drops down to Lake Trnovačko, set amongst the epic sprawl of mountains that is Montenegro. Need to know The hiking season for the White Trail through Bosnia and Herzegovina is June to October. Bosnia and some parts of Croatia near the Bosnian border have areas with landmines. The trails on the Via Dinarica are perfectly safe, but it’s something you need to be aware of. Under no circumstances should you wander into areas where there are warning signs.
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Begin in Croatia’s iconic Dubrovnik, exploring the city’s old town walls and sailing or swimming in the Adriatic’s deep blue waters. Spend a day exploring Konavle Valley’s vineyards and seafood restaurants before travelling into Montenegro and the villages around Kotor Bay. Head into Albania and bike around the ancient city of Shkodra, taking in lake views before exploring the countryside and villages in the Drin Valley. Continue the nature theme with a day exploring Skadar National Park, where you can travel through fairytale villages and thick forests. Cross back into Montenegro at Lovcen National Park, where you can try ziplining and quad-biking, before ending back in Kotor Bay.
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Start by exploring Croatia’s capital of Zagreb, taking in its old town and cafe culture, before travelling to Istria and Pula’s ancient Roman architecture. Take a day trip to Cape Kamenjak to see a nature reserve that’s home to 20 different species of orchid, before travelling to the port town of Rovinj. Head away from Istria’s coastline into its hills, where you can visit the picturesque, medieval villages of Motovun and Grožnjan. Next, travel to the seaside resort of Lovran before ending your trip back in Zagreb to depart.
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Start in Trebinje, a pretty town similar to Dubrovnik but without the costs and tourists, before beginning your walking trip with the deep gorges of the Tara Canyon. It’s a short jump to Durmitor National Park, home to underground streams and more than 50 peaks – perfect for hiking in summer or skiing in winter. Travel to Biogradska Gora National Park, where you can explore ancient forests full of elm, maple and beech trees, before heading to the Balkans’ biggest lake – Lake Skadar. Here, you can see Albania across the water and look for pelicans on the Montenegrin side. An hour’s drive away is Lovcen National Park, where you can see orchids before climbing to the mountain-top mausoleum to St Peter – Montenegro’s most famous son. Travel down the mountain to the Bay of Kotor to explore its waterfront villages before ending in Dubrovnik.
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Start your trip at Croatia’s Dubrovnik, exploring its old city walls, narrow lanes and Adriatic coastline, before crossing into Montenegro to hike around Durmitor National Park’s glacial lakes and enjoy its 50+ peaks. Travel to the nearby Tara Canyon for rafting or kayaking, before sampling the restaurants, pretty villages and relaxed culture of Kotor Bay. End your trip on the border with Albania at Lake Skadar National Park, where you can birdwatch, hike and taste local honey and wine.
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Start your exploration of the Balkans’ culinary scene in Dubrovnik, sampling the seafood restaurants and organic wine of the Old Town, before continuing to the towns of Kotor Bay in Montenegro to sample local cheeses and the Montenegrin Njegusi sausage. Next, head to the vineyards of Konavle Bay, before comparing them to Virpazar’s wineries back in Montenegro. Experience Albanian cafe culture in Shkodra before heading to the monasteries of Cetinje. Finally, end with more wine-tasting in Trebinje before departing from Dubrovnik.
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Via Dinarica White Trail
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West Balkans in a week
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Istria’s coastlines and hilltop villages
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Mountain walks in Montenegro
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Montenegro loop
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West Balkans wine and food
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