I guide climbers on all the Kilimanjaro routes, but the Northern Circuit is the one I wish more people understood. It starts on the western side, either from Lemosho Gate or Londorossi Gate. If we go from Lemosho, the first night is in the forest at Big Tree Camp. If we use Londorossi, we sleep at Moram Camp in the heath and moorland. From the start you feel it is a different kind of experience to the more popular routes.

The big thing with this route is its relaxed pace. We get at least nine days and that gives the body a more natural pace of acclimatisation. Each evening we walk a bit higher, then drop back to camp to sleep lower. Climbing high and sleeping lower helps avoid altitude sickness. Once you get into the rhythm you see why the success rate is much better than the other Kili routes.

Most people struggle from day one to three. They have not adapted yet and everything feels stressful. By day four you see the change. Bodies settle, stress comes down and you start to feel ready for the summit. From Moir Hut View Point you get a proper moment. When the weather is kind you'll see Mount Meru, Mount Longido, Ol Doinyo Le Ngai and the sunset. On the way to Buffalo Camp you can look across to Amboseli National Park in Kenya. At night you sometimes see the Nairobi skyline.

The northern side is quiet and exposed, so you need to be careful with your pace. The biggest issue I see is false confidence. When people feel good they think the hard part is over. They start breaking the basic rules and push the pace. The trouble always shows after base camp, around 5,400 metres. That stretch from Hans Meyer Cave up to Gilman’s Point is where it happens. In August 2024 we had a group of twelve. One climber suddenly surged ahead for less than a minute. He became weak and started sweating a lot. We had to step him aside, give first aid and take him down to a lower altitude. He recovered well but it shows why discipline matters. At that height the air is thin and you can get headache, nausea, stomach upset, cerebral oedema, pulmonary oedema and general weakness. If it comes, the only solution is to descend.

Season also matters on this route. The best months are December to mid-March and late June to October. It is clear and dry then. April and May are the hard months with heavy rains and cold conditions. From January to mid-March and from June to October you get clear skies but very cold nights. From June to September the trails stay dry but the winds around Buffalo Camp can be strong. From December to mid-March the nights are warmer but there can be cloud.

This route suits people with fine health, good fitness, an adventurous mind and enough vacation time. Middle-class travellers who want to take it slow usually do well. The ones who struggle are budget climbers, anyone in poor health and elderly climbers above 65. It is a long and remote route and you need the time, the energy and the right expectations.