Tajikistan is one of the most spectacular trekking destinations you've never heard about.
Perhaps most accessible and popular are the Fann Mountains. Then there's the wild Pamirs (and the epic Pamir Highway). Little-visited Shirkent National Park, or the truly off the beaten path Yagnob Valley.
Come prepared: Tajikistan is the poorest country in the former Soviet Union. Prices are higher than usual due to its remote, landlocked location, and imported food comes at a premium in remote areas. Altitude sickness, stomach bugs and car sickness due to poor roads are other issues to keep in mind.
We want to go trekking in Shirkent National Park with a mix of camping and guest houses, is that possible?
There are no guesthouses in the Shirkent valley, it is totally unpopulated. Trekking here is camping only!
For easy to moderate treks in June/July, would you recommend Jiziu (Tajik National Park) or Shirkent National Park?
The journey from Nairobi to Tsavo East takes five to six hours, depending on your lodge. So you'll arrive in the evening – maybe with time for a night game drive, but possible not. You'll get a game drive in the morning before heading to Diani.
We are intermediate hikers, looking for something between 6-8 days. Interested in homestays, learning about history and local culture. What would you suggest?
For shorter, intermediate hikes with emphasis on culture and homestays, I'd highly recommend focusing on the Fann Mountains in north-western Tajikistan. There are various options here, some with shorter trekking days, others slightly longer to Big Alo Lake and some lesser-known paths. Trekking here is usually moderate and you can stay in a mixture of tents and guesthouses.
The Lakes Loop isn't possible in November, it's far too cold. Mid-October is the absolute latest, but even then it's not ideal. The best time for the Lakes Loop is from June to the end of September.
Altitude sickness isn’t a major problem in the Fann Mountains but can be an issue in the eastern Pamirs, where starting elevations are around 3,500m and climb to 4,500m.
Gorno-Badakhshan (GBAO) permits are required for all travel in the eastern Pamir. Tajik National Park technically levies a daily park fee, if you actually see a ranger. You need a special permit to visit Lake Sarez in the remote western Pamir.
If you’re trekking solo, gas canisters are available in Dushanbe, and should be available in Penjikent and Khorog. Otherwise you are betting off bringing all other gear with you.
If you’re trekking with an organised tour operator they’ll supply all necessary equipment other than sleeping bags which may be available to rent.
Horse treks are possible on some routes in the Fann Mountains and in the central Pamirs, notably from Bachor to the stunning lakes of Zarosh Kul and Chapdara Kul. Camel trekking is possible from Murghab in the eastern Pamirs.
The main dangers are the hazards inherent to trekking in a very remote, very wild landscape. You won’t be able to rely on emergency evacuation or even reliable mobile signal. Check your trekking operator has satellite phones or EPIRB beacons for emergencies and don’t even think about trekking in Tajikistan without comprehensive insurance that covers international evacuation.
In terms of personal safety and security there have been isolated incidents of terrorism in the past but things are fairly stable now. I'd advise against anyone regardless of gender trekking alone in Tajikistan.
The treks leading from the Bartang Valley to Sarez Lake and the Pamir plateau are remote, tough and spectacular. Shorter treks in the Fann Mountains and Jizeu Valley are the easiest places to start.
Organised trekking tours will use a combination of camping (equipment provided) and very basic homestays. Yurt stays are a highlight of trekking in the eastern Pamirs. The valleys of the western Pamir have excellent homestays linked to community-based tourism projects, which I highly recommend.
Be sure to get the latest information on homestays in your trekking region. You won't find them on the trekking trails themselves but they are often at the start and end points of treks and they are always good places to stay and find a local guide. I often arrange my entire itinerary around the availability of homestays, especially when I'm hiking without a tent.
On organised treks and in homestays you’ll be well fed. Hearty laghman (noodle stew) and plov (pilau rice) are common staples.
Expect instant noodles and mashed potatoes if trekking independently. Naan bread, dried fruit and nuts, canned fish and Russian salami are my go-to local trekking snacks.
I’d say it’s fine for older trekkers who are fit and active but it’s no walk in the park. The terrain is rugged and the sun can be very strong. Most treks are above the tree line with little shade. Beyond this, the trekking experience here has few creature comforts: expect rough roads, rustic homestays and unvaried food.
Supported trekking with a guide, porters, pack animals or vehicles solves a lot of problems, but doesn’t make the trails any easier!
Experienced trekkers can find enough information and maps to trek independently in the Fann Mountains without a guide. You should definitely have a guide in the remoter parts of the Zeravshan range and the wild Pamir valleys.
July, August and September are the only practical months for trekking here, when the snows have melted and temperatures are comfortable at high altitudes.
Be prepared for some serious heat in lowland Tajikistan in July and August. Temperatures of 40°C are not uncommon in Dushanbe and Penjikent in the summer trekking season, when the mountains are a cool retreat.
Distance: Approximately 70 kmDuration: Seven daysStart and end point: Karatag to KaratagDifficulty: Mild Although Shirkent National Park isn’t far from Dushanbe, very few people visit this region of the Fann Mountains, making it a real hidden gem and one of my favourite places to hike anywhere in Tajikistan. This circular route is a moderate difficulty camping trek that starts at the Katarag gorge before leading up to the once-inhabited Parmin plateau and onto the Shirkent gorge. For two days you can follow the Shirkent Barrier, a colossal massif of heavily eroded sandstone before crossing the Khazor-Khona pass, the trek’s high point at 3,160m. From here you meet the Pariyon River and follow it to the stunning Pariyon Lake before returning to Karatag.
Distance: 95 kmDuration: Nine daysStart and end point: Romit Valley to LailakulDifficulty: Moderate My favourite trek in the Yagnob Valley region starts in the Romit Valley nature preserve and ends in Lailakul in the Ziddy Valley. The upper part of the valley is just stunning, with great sweeping fields overlooked by towering snow capped peaks. The route follows three separate valleys (Yagnob, Romit and Ziddy) connected by two mountain passes. The passes are steep and follow narrow trails, but no technical skills are required. There are also several river crossings which must be completed with safety ropes. You’ll be lucky to see locals here, let along other travellers, although you’ll pass by the occasional farming village inhabited by descendants of the ancient Sogdians.
Distance: Approximately 85 kmDuration: Ten daysStart and end point: Bachor to YashilkulDifficulty: Strenuous The Bachor region of the Pamirs offers some of the most remote, high-altitude and overall challenging trekking anywhere in the Pamirs, and all Tajikistan for that matter. One of my favourite routes is a ten day hike from Bachor to Yashilkul Lake staying in a mixture of camping and local homestays. This trek hops from one glacial lake to the next, with Kulen Lake topping out at 4,800 metres. But the scenery makes it all well worthwhile, the views over Zaroshkkul Lake can bring you to tears and after dark you’re treated to spectacular night scapes of the Milky Way. After eight days of high altitude hiking you descend through through the wide valley of the Chapdarkul river to Bachor pasture grazed by herds of yaks, before crossing the river to Yashilkul Lake.
Distance: Approximately 3.1 miles (5 km) round trip Duration: One day Start and end point: Engels Village Difficulty: Moderate Like the definition of short but sweet, Engels Peak Base Camp day hike is just a 3.1-mile round trip from Engels Village. Engels Peak Base Camp is the starting point for those looking to conquer Engels Peak, one of the significant summits in the Tajik Pamirs. The base camp sits at an altitude of around 4,200 metres and, for those with just a day, is a scenic introduction to Engels Peak without the commitment of a summit climb. The trail is graced with stunning panoramas, rivers, and isolated hamlets, where you can experience the Tajik mountain culture firsthand.
Distance: Approximately 10 miles (15 km) Duration: Two daysStart and end point: Jizeu Village Difficulty: Mild The 10-mile village-to-village hike cuts through Jizeu Valley, often called "The Jewel of the Pamirs" for its natural beauty. Located in the Bartang Valley, the trek starts at Jizeu Village and traverses scenic landscapes with terraced fields, cliffs, and serene forested areas. The valley is home to three traditional Pamiri villages - Jizeu, Balunk, and Marjan. Here, you see the age-old Pamiri lifestyle, preserved through generations. There's a chance for cultural immersion, including having tea in the villages or alternating between nights camping and staying in a local homestay. The area is teeming with wildlife. Sightings of Marco Polo sheep and Ibex are common, and you might spot the elusive snow leopard with luck.
Distance: Approximately 62 miles (100 km) Duration: Eight days Start point: Bachor Village End point: Barchidev Village Difficulty: Strenuous The Bachor to Sarez Lake trek is a spectacular journey in Tajikistan's Pamir Mountains. This demanding eight-day trek starts in Bachor, a remote village in the Bartang Valley. Accommodation options are primarily camping, with occasional homestays. The route takes you across high passes, rocky landscapes, and past swift rivers. Along the way, you'll visit secluded villages, experience local Pamiri culture, and witness stunning panoramas of snow-capped peaks. The pinnacle of the journey is the arrival at Sarez Lake, a high-altitude lake created by a devastating earthquake in 1911. The natural dam, Usoi Dam, is the tallest in the world and has trapped a stunning body of water over 55 km long. The lake's deep blue waters set against the stark mountainous backdrop form a breathtaking vista and haven for migratory birds.
Distance: Approximately 27 miles (44 km) Duration: Four to five days Start and end point: Veshab village Difficulty: Moderate This route proves that hiking doesn't have to be endless ridges and desolate valleys. This trek takes hikers through the heart of the Yagnob Valley, known as the "Living Museum" for its preserved ancient way of life. The trek spans four to five days, starting and ending in Vershab village, accessible from Dushanbe. You are immediately met with captivating mountain landscapes, pristine rivers, and small traditional villages where locals still speak Yagnobi, a direct descendant of the ancient Sogdian language. A cultural immersion to its core, this hike offers opportunities to experience local life in remote communities largely untouched by modernity. Key highlights include the scenic Marguzor Lakes and the historical ruins in Pskon village, relics of the ancient Sogdian civilization. You’ll stay in homestays along the way, with camping options if you want a more basic experience.
Distance: Approximately 22 miles (35 km) Duration: Two to three days Start point: Haftkul (Seven Lakes) End point: Iskanderkul Difficulty: Moderate This route runs through Tajikistan's Fann Mountains from the uniquely coloured Seven Lakes, known as Haftkul, to Iskanderkul, a picturesque turquoise glacial lake. Over two to three days, you’ll tackle diverse terrain from verdant valleys to stark high-altitude passes. Along the route, you'll encounter traditional mountain villages and semi-nomadic shepherds. The rich biodiversity of the region also means you might spot wildlife, including mountain goats and marmots, and if you're particularly lucky, the elusive snow leopard. The trek concludes at Iskanderkul, sitting at 2,195 metres elevation. The lake's beauty, set against the backdrop of the Fann Mountains, makes a remarkable end to the journey. Accommodation throughout is a mixture of homestays and camping.
Distance: Approximately 20 miles (32 km) Duration: Three to four days Start and end point: Artuch Alp Camp Difficulty: Strenuous The 20-mile Lakes Loop traverses the Fann Mountains, a spectacular subrange of the Pamir-Alay mountain system in Tajikistan's Sughd Province. These mountains are well known among the trekking community for their untouched wilderness, breathtaking alpine lakes, and rugged, towering peaks. You’ll be camping throughout your hike and need to bring all your essential gear. The trek is moderately difficult, involving a steep ascent to the Alaudin Pass, which sits at an elevation of around 3,860 metres. This trail loops around the Kulikalon and Alaudin lakes, allowing you to appreciate their crystal-clear turquoise waters surrounded by snow-capped peaks. Kulikalon Lakes, located in the Kulikalon Valley, has three main lakes: Bibijanat, Kulikalon (Dushoha), and Taudaha. They are set amidst lush meadows with the rugged wall of the Mirali Peak as a backdrop. Further along, the trail is the crystal clear emerald-green Alaudin Lake, located at the base of the Alaudin Pass.
Distance: 1,297 kmNumber of sections: 9Best season: July-SeptemberDifficulty: Moderate to strenuous, depending on the sectionType of accommodation: camping and homestays Labour of love by adventurer and travel writer, Jan Bakker, the Pamir Trail must be one of the most newest, most ambitious and most daunting long-distance thru-hikes anywhere on earth. Nearly 1,300 km running across the width of Tajikistan, the trail connects the relatively accessible Fann Mountains with the remote and wild Pamirs. As of yet only a few hardy solo trekkers have completed the trail in full, but it is now fully mapped and pioneering tour operators are beginning to offer supported treks along some stretches of the trail. Learn more on the official website.
This is the classic Kazakhstan & Kyrgyzstan itinerary, a route for the landscape lover. Desert, valley, mountain, forest, lake and steppe are all packed together in the small Zhetisu area. Learn more about the history and culture of Kazakhs and Kyrgyz, while being hosted in small villages in the most beautiful part of their country. This itinerary starts in Almaty and finishes in Bishkek, although you could do it in reverse just as easily. If pressed for time, a shorter version of this loop would leave out Kazakhstan, and start and finish in Bishkek. From Almaty, there are two ways to start exploring what tour operators often call “the Golden Ring of Zhetisu”. One route goes east directly, past the wild apple forests of Talgar and the kurgans of Esik, straight to Charyn Canyon and the Kolsai lakes. The other option is to detour north, to the Altyn Emel national park, for a 2- or 3-day wildlife safari in search of ibex and kulan. Cross the boarder at the Karkara valley, stopping over at San Tash before reaching Karakol, on the eastern side of Lake Issyk-Kul. There's lots to explore here from the Seven Bulls at Zheti-Oguz and the sandstone Fairytale Valley to Barskoon where you can learn how to build a yurt or ride a horse to one of the nearby waterfalls. Stop off at Song Kol lake before heading to Suusamyr valley as your journey winds down, following the M41 through the outskirts of Bishkek to finally arrive in the centre of the nation’s capital.
This is an itinerary of the exotic, a route for those ready to take the road less known, who want to discover a wild and beautiful landscape, meet warm and wonderfully hospitable people, and walk in the steps of the giants of history, from Alexander the Great to Marco Polo. Travel conditions are not up to Western standards, but what you forego in comfort, you get back in lifelong memories.Travel back in time as you move up the Pamir Highway to find people living much the same as centuries ago before spending some time in Dushanbe.You can then follow the Uzbekistan loop, starting in Tashkent. After spending time exploring the city, take the train to Samarkand and take a couple of days to take in the sights.A direct train will take you to Bukhara, or you can opt to make the journey by car, stopping at caravanserais and minarets along the way. If you have an extra two days take the roundabout way to Bukhara through the Nuratau mountains.There is no rail connection between Bukhara and Khiva, so the next part of the journey needs to be done by road-- a seven-hour ride. Its remoteness makes this desert khanate little-visited by the majority of tourists.From Urgench near Khiva, a flight back to Tashkent brings your journey to an end.
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