Greenland to Svalbard expeditions may call at the Norwegian island of Jan Mayen. Home to the world’s most northerly active volcano, Beerenberg, the isle is 500km from mainland, with no harbours or civilians (there’s a military presence) – making it the ideal nature reserve. Expect a ‘wet landing’ – you’ll have to jump out of your Zodiac inflatable boat – and to spot vulnerable snowy owls, Atlantic puffins and black-legged kittiwake.

Over on the Norwegian mainland, the Arctic Circle passes through Melfjord, halfway up the coast. Itineraries tend to include Svartisen Glacier and the Lofoten Islands, where the sea is Caribbean-clear. If Tromso city is a shock to the system, return to the wild at North Cape, Europe’s most northern point.

Cruises to and from Svalbard pass Bear Island, a nature reserve pockmarked with caves. Fulmars, puffins and gannets circle its shores, but you might also have zero visibility.

On Svalbard itself, you may stop at Hornsund Bay, like the president of The Arctic Club did when he sailed there on his yacht. “We arrived in fog and something nudged our boat,” says Alasdair Flint. “We thought we were being attacked by a polar bear so we got our rifles out, but fortunately it was massive bearded seal.” Sailing clockwise, you may also explore Bellsund; settlements such as Longyearbyen and Ny-Alesund and Lilliehook Glacier. Nordaustlandet Island and the islands near it – Kvitoya, Kong Karls Land, Barents and Edge – are particularly remote, so expect polar bears.