North, beyond the highest Himalayan peaks, is Upper Mustang. This is a high-altitude desert of multi-hued gorges, green oases, fairy-tale gompas, prayer flags and blood red fortified monasteries. This is a land so rich in traditional Tibetan Buddhist culture that it can often feel more classically Tibetan than the modern Chinese region of Tibet itself.

Mustang doesn’t have the same awe-inspiring close-up views of the mountains as many of the other main Nepalese trek areas, and walking here is as much a cultural experience as a mountain one. With classical Tibetan Buddhist culture severely restricted in Tibet itself, Upper Mustang is now one of the best places to see it flourishing. But take note: Traditional life is changing here too, thanks to increased road construction and development.