Uzbekistan
Mosques, mausoleums and madrasahs
Central Asia’s showstopper, Uzbekistan is synonymous with the famed Silk Road which weaved its way through much of this historic country. Cities like Bukhara and Samarkand bustled with life as spice and silk traders plied their wares along the route. However, with trade came trouble and Uzbekistan has seen its fair share of problems over the years.
Today, Uzbekistan offers intrepid visitors a mix of Islamic architecture and ancient cities. Look for Samarkand’s Registan - a public square at the heart of the city, crowned by three madrasahs (Islamic schools) all showcasing distinctive architecture. In contrast, capital Tashkent – completely destroyed in 1966 by a merciless earthquake – is a mishmash of restored 12th-century mosques and the brutalist Russian buildings that sprung up during its recovery.
Visiting Uzbekistan isn’t just about its cities. The Kyzyl Kum Desert is the world’s 11th largest and is famous for its red sand, camel treks and yurts offering starlit nights. Remote Karakalpakstan has fortresses, castles and the infamous Aral Sea, which is now a dry, barren but spectacular sight.
It’s impossible to ignore the complexity of Uzbekistan’s authoritarian regime. Homosexuality is illegal and the country’s state has a reputation for corruption. However, most visitors find only friendship, fun and intrigue among Uzbeks. A word of warning – pick your season. November to February can be bleak, with temperatures regularly below freezing, while the intense heat of July can see 50C melt Tashkent’s pavement.
Hidden gems in Uzbekistan
Samarkand
See Samarkand in full
No place on the long and winding Silk Road captures the imagination quite like Uzbekistan's Samarkand, the restored 14th-century city and centre of the mighty Timurid Empire. The dazzle of ceramic tiles lining the monuments is a sight to behold, inviting you to delve into the city’s long and turbulent history. How could Timur, an emperor renowned for his cruelty, be responsible for something as lovely as Samarkand? His conquests clearly paid off: by dragging skilled artisans from around Eurasia to his capital, he created an arresting architectural statement that has stood the test of time. Samarkand represents the core idea of the Silk Road: a place where east met west, mingling to create something new, and heart-stoppingly beautiful. The Registan complex of mosque and madrasahs (Islamic schools), decorated with ceramic tiles and presided over by an obviously un-Islamic lion, are at the heart of Samarkand. From here, you can branch out to the enormous Bibi Khanum mosque, or instead visit the striking Gur Emir mausoleum of Timur himself, which would inspire the Taj Mahal, built by Timur’s descendants of the Mughal dynasty. Overlooking the city sits another monument to the dead: The Shah-i-Zinda necropolis, dating from the 11th century, is an extraordinary collection of mausoleums and shrines – more than 20 buildings of stunning beauty, packed together in a relatively small space. Legend has it that the cousin of the Prophet Muhammad is buried there. And don’t miss the remains of the 15th century observatory on the edge of the city, built by Ulugh Beg. Here is where he mapped the stars and worked out the length of the year, among other things, with astonishing accuracy. The Registan is so huge that it’s worth visiting the site several times. Try to visit at different times of the day. This will allow you to pick out different details and to observe the play of light and shadow in the muqarnas. The site is open between 8am-7pm daily and the entrance fee is 50,000 som ($3.90).
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See Samarkand in full
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