Quiet Kruger safari
Escape the crowds and get off the beaten path in Kruger
Kruger National Park is the king of South Africa safari, and for good reason: this is the classic African safari of your imagination, home to tens of thousands of mammal and bird species, including all the big name favourites.
But what many first-time visitors don’t understand is the stark difference between Kruger National Park proper and the network of private concessions that border the park. The national park is run by the public authorities in the interests of conservation, and they do an excellent job. However, accommodation within the park can be fairly drab and as an open national park, it can get exceptionally busy. With no limit on the number of visitors – especially day-trippers – vehicles crowding around animals is distressingly common, and a wildlife sighting can quickly lose its magic.
If you have a different picture in mind, you might prefer to visit one of the neighbouring private concessions. These conservancies are part of the Greater Kruger Ecosystem: they’re not fenced off from the national park, and animals move freely between them all, but visitor numbers are much more tightly controlled, there are no day-trippers, and no crowding around the wildlife.
I think the best thing about the private concessions is the extra flexibility in what you can do there. Unlike the national park where you’re restricted to tarmac roads, here you’re truly off-roading. When a leopard races by you can head into the bush to see where it ends up: you can’t get literally off the beaten path like this in the national park. But my favourite thing to do is a walking safari. Brushing through the grass instead of watching through a window, hearing the subtle sounds of insects and the wind rustling through leaves instead of an engine… It's a whole different rush. Trust me, it’s magical.
There’s no denying, visiting a conservancy is considerably more expensive than staying in the national park, but remember you’re directly funding important conservation work. My advice is to do fewer nights but spend more per night in a conservancy – you’ll get a much bigger bang for your buck this way.
The conservancies are all great, but if pushed to pick a favourite, I’d probably go with Timbavati Game Reserve. Timbavati is super strict with the number of vehicles per lock (sighting). Only two vehicles are permitted, so a vehicle has to move away before another one can come to the lock. This type of control creates a completely different experience compared to Kruger National Park.
Another highlight of Timbavati is the presence of wild white lions, a rare variant found only here. These lions are most commonly seen in the southern parts of the reserve around Ngala, offering you a rare and memorable sighting that few other places can offer.
Key information
| Destinations | Kruger National Park |
|---|---|
| Activity | Safari, Nature & Wildlife |
| Physical Level | Easy |
| July - October |
Quiet Kruger safari itinerary
Arrival in Johannesburg
Day 1 in Johannesburg
If you’re arriving internationally, you’ll likely arrive at OR Tambo International Airport. Depending on flight times you may need to spend your first night in Johannesburg, in which case I recommend staying at Kempton Park, a residential suburb to the east of Johannesburg, about ten minutes from the airport.
Flight to the Lowveld and transfer to Timbavati
Day 2 in Timbavati Game Reserve
In the morning, fly from Johannesburg to Hoedspruit. The flight usually takes under an hour. From Hoedspruit airport, you’ll be driven to the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, at the western edge of Kruger National Park.
Once inside the reserve, the transfer itself turns into a game drive, and you’ll likely see plenty of wildlife along the way. Timbavati is home to elephants, rhino, buffalo, lions, and leopards, as well as giraffes, zebras, and various antelope. Cheetah and African wild dogs are sometimes spotted here too.
There are 18 lodges and four camps in Timbavati. They’re all great, but I most often recommend Walkers Plains Camp for its unique location with each room overlooking an open plain that stretches all the way to the Klein Drakensberg Mountains. There aren’t many views to compete with this in the entire Kruger area, and it always fills me with a sense of deep serenity.
Later you’ll meet your guide and tracker and will set out on your first game drive. Walkers have some of the most experienced in the industry and they’ll take the time to walk you through the area with maps and photos to help you understand the land, wildlife and varied terrain of open plains, woodlands, and rivers.
Safari in Timbavati
Day 3 in Timbavati Game Reserve
Your day begins with a pre-dawn game drive to catch the wildlife at their most active, with a stop for coffee in the bush before breakfast back at the lodge.
Late morning and early afternoon are free for rest or optional activities. You can take a guided bush walk, or simply relax on the lodge deck and watch the wildlife pass by. There’ll be another afternoon game drive and after sunset, a spotlight is used to search for nocturnal animals such as civets, bushbabies, genets, and caracals.
Departure or extension
Day 4 in Johannesburg
A final early morning game drive is followed by breakfast at the lodge. Afterwards, return by road to Hoedspruit for your flight back to Johannesburg – or onwards to another reserve in the Greater Kruger Area or beyond.
Need to know
When to go
The peak season to visit Timbavati is between July and October, as the dry season has had a chance to thin out vegetation, making wildlife spotting easier. Winter is also ideal for walking safaris, as temperatures are cooler and rainfall is less.
Getting there
The other big pro to Timbavati is the ease of access. Most lodges in the reserve are just 30 to 45 minutes from Hoedspruit Airport, making the journey straightforward and cost-effective.
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