Ak Suu Transverse trek
The full Ak Suu in nine days
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Jyrgalan
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Boz Uchuk Lakes
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Jergez Gorge
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Almaluu Gorge
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Altyn Arashan Valley
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Ala-Kol
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Karakol Gorge
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Telety Camp
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Djeti-Oguz
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Stephen Lioy, author of our guide to trekking in Kyrgyzstan, picks the Ak Suu Transverse (sometimes called Ak Suu Traverse) as his single favourite trekking route in the country. And as someone who has spent decades guiding hikers through this stretch of the Tian Shan mountains, I can totally understand why.
This point-to-point trek winds across around 100 km of mountain trails that connect the village of Jyrgalan with the old soviet resort of Jeti-Öguz. On the way you hike through some incredible landscapes of lakes, waterfalls, and tackle at least one, sometimes two, mountain passes each day.
The route incorporates some of Kyrgyzstan’s more accessible (and busier) hikes, most notably the well-trodden path to Ala Kol lake. Unlike that hike however, you’re unlikely to be troubled by crowds on the rest of the Ak Suu Transverse. Other highlights include camping on the shores of Boz-Uchuk Lake, the spellbinding panorama from atop Ala-Kol North Pass, the beautiful Jeti-Oguz Gorge, and the soothing hot springs of Altyn-Arashan.
There are a number of ways to complete the Ak Suu Transverse. Some operators offer a seven-day itinerary, which I think is too fast-paced with very long days (this abridged seven-day version is a good alternative). My ideal itinerary, the one shown below, is spread over nine days which I think is manageable if you have decent fitness and are adjusted to the altitude.
You can hike the Ak Suu Transverse independently, although only recommended for experienced navigators. You can secure a guide in Karakol town, and trekking operators also offer the Ak Suu Transverse as a fully supported and guided camping trek. There are also now a network of yurt camps along the length of the route which offer an extra edge of comfort.
Key information
| Destinations | Kyrgyzstan |
|---|---|
| Activity | Adventure, Hiking & Trekking, Active, Walking, Nature & Wildlife, Responsible Travel, Slow Travel |
| Physical Level | Strenuous |
 Season |
June - August |
Ak Suu Transverse trek itinerary
Karakol – Jyrgalan – Terim-Tor
Day 1 in Jyrgalan
The trek begins with a 60 km drive east from Karakol to the village of Jyrgalan, once a Soviet-era mining town, now a quiet base for mountain exploration. The route heads out into the alpine zone almost immediately, following an undulating trail through open pastures into the Terim-Tor area. The camp is typically set up near 3200 m, though some routes continue higher to 3450 m.
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Distance: ~14 km
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Accommodation: Tent or Yurt camp (approx. 3200–3450 m)
Terim-Tor – Boz Uchuk Lakes
Day 2 in Boz Uchuk Lakes
The day begins with a climb to Bulak-Ashuu Pass (3450 m), followed by a second ascent to Boz Uchuk Pass (3363 m). The trail rises above the tree line, crossing broad alpine meadows and ridges. Camp is usually set beside the Boz Uchuk Lakes, a string of cold, clear tarns surrounded by barren rock and occasional snow patches. From camp, a short scramble up a ridge offers views back toward the Issyk-Kul basin, particularly striking in the evening light.
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Distance: ~15 km
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Accommodation: Tent or yurt camp near Boz Uchuk Lakes (approx. 3450 m)
Boz Uchuk Lakes – Jergez Gorge
Day 3 in Jergez Gorge
A shorter but steeper day, beginning with a small ridge crossing immediately west of camp. The trail then ascends towards a pass at 3524 m, overlooking the Jergez Valley. From the saddle, there are panoramic views dominated by the Tashtanbek Tor Bashi massif to the south. Camp is set in the Jergez Valley. In the afternoon, a side trip leads to a local waterfall.
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Distance: ~7 km (plus ~5 km round trip to waterfall)
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Accommodation: Tent or yurt camp in Jergez Gorge
Jergez Gorge – Almaluu Gorge
Day 4 in Almaluu Gorge
The trail follows the Jergez River and ascends gradually towards the first of the Ailanysh Lakes (3445 m), then continues steeply up past a second lake to Ailanysh Pass (3676 m). On the descent, views open up toward a glacier-covered peak (3855 m) and the dramatic Ak-Suu Wall beyond. The day ends with a long descent into Almaluu Gorge, where camp is set at lower elevation.
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Distance: ~11 km
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Accommodation: Tent or yurt camp (approx. 2750 m)
Almaluu Gorge – Altyn Arashan
Day 5 in Altyn Arashan Valley
A steady 800 m climb leads up to Ortok Pass (3650 m), followed by a long descent into the Ak-Suu Arashan Valley. The hot springs in this area, used for centuries and further developed in the Soviet era, offer a welcome chance to rest weary legs. Accommodation is in a simple guesthouse or yurt.
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Distance: ~14 km
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Accommodation: Tent, guesthouse or yurt
Altyn Arashan – Ala-Kol Lake
Day 6 in Ala-Kol
A demanding ascent day. From the valley, the trail climbs steadily southwest through increasingly rugged terrain. The final push to Ala-Kol North Pass (3906 m) is especially steep, with loose scree underfoot. From the pass, wide views extend across Ala-Kol, a glacial lake in an exposed bowl framed by snow-covered peaks over 5000 m. Camp is set on the lakeshore at around 3550 m.
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Distance: ~15 km
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Accommodation: Tent or yurt camp near Ala-Kol
Ala-Kul – Karakol Gorge
Day 7 in Karakol Gorge
Rather than descending directly, the route skirts west along the lake to Panorama Pass (3781 m), offering elevated views over Karakol Peak (5216 m), Djigit Peak, and Öguz-Bashi. The descent into Karakol Valley is steep and rocky, and care is needed on the way down. Camp is set at 3200 m.
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Distance: ~15 km
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Accommodation: Tent or yurt camp in Karakol Gorge
Karakol Gorge – Telety Camp
Day 8 in Telety Camp
From Karakol Gorge, follow the valley floor upstream for around 3 km before turning into the side valley leading to Telety Pass. Several good camping spots lie along this stretch; one of the most scenic is located in a broad meadow about halfway up the valley. A final push leads over Telety Pass (3792 m), followed by a descent into the next valley. Camp is typically made near the river at around 3100 m.
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Distance: ~14 km
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Accommodation: Tent or yurt camp
Telety Camp – Djeti-Oguz – Karakol
Day 9 in Djeti-Oguz
The final trekking day follows the river down to the Djeti-Oguz Valley, known for its dramatic red sandstone formations and alpine pastures. Lunch is usually taken at a yurt camp near Kok-Jaik. A short walk to the nearby waterfall known as "Girl’s Braids" can be included. Return to Karakol by vehicle (approx. 40 km).
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Distance: ~10 km
Ak Suu Transverse need to know
If you're planning to do the Ak Suu Transverse yourself, there are a few logistics to bear in mind. The daily distances are manageable, usually between 10 and 15 kilometres, and most experienced hikers tackle these in four or five hours, although if you're a slower walker, allow an extra couple of hours each day. Elevation gains generally range from about 700 to 800 metres each day, occasionally reaching up to 1300 metres. The first section from Jyrgalan to Altyn-Arashan can even be done on horseback if you prefer, but the remainder is on foot.
When to go
The Ak Suu Traverse hiking season runs roughly from late June to the end of August, though the weather here is highly unpredictable, swinging from dry to rainy without much notice. Keep in mind that the Altyn-Arashan hot springs can be busy, as day-trippers arrive from Karakol by truck.
Finally, a word of advice: this isn't really a trek for complete beginners. If you're not confident with multi-day hiking, it's best to choose a shorter section rather than attempting the whole traverse.
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