• Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous

• Max Elevation: 3,430 metres & 3,870 metres respectively

• Duration: Seven days

• Start/end point: Lilam village near Munsyari, Uttarakhand

• Accommodation: Camping with homestays in the last village

Nanda Devi, the highest mountain that is entirely within India and one worshipped here as the people’s goddess, is the stuff legends are made of. A smorgasbord of mystery and mythology, this is the mountain I grew up fascinated by, attending festivals in the goddess’ honour and reading about the mad mountaineers she attracted. The mountain itself is closed off to visitors for conservation reasons, but this five-day trail in Kumaon takes you as close as possible to the base camp of its lesser peak. It can be done as a loop together with Milam glacier, whose reputation and allure has been tarnished with the arrival of a road. The distance to the trail head is a killer, but well worth the effort for the trail branching off towards Nanda Devi.

Need to know

Munsyari is a whopping 600 kms from New Delhi and the closest route by air is via a helicopter service, though it is erratic and also limits your luggage. A road journey is ideal (or train to Kathgodam), best done over two days with an overnight stop mid-way. Munsyari is the last outpost for this trek, and also has an uphill but beautiful day hike to the Khalia top meadow which has stunning views of the Panchahuli range.