Borneo
Untamed nature
Welcome to Borneo
The insider's travel guide to BorneoBorneo is 'one great wild, untidy, luxuriant hothouse, made by nature for herself', wrote Charles Darwin in the 1800s.
He was fascinated by this immense island's unique wildlife and despite the impact of logging and mining, it remains a rainforested trove of birds, plants and animals.
Exotic orchids, orangutans, sun bears, pygmy elephants, Irrawaddy dolphins, clouded leopards: there is much to see, but some, like the orangutan, are under threat.
Away from a number of very worthy sanctuaries, it's not easy to spot these rare creatures. So take a paddle up river deep into the jungle to stay with tribespeople in a traditional longhouse. Here, you can get a local to show you around.
Where to go in Borneo
Highlights & hidden gems
The Borneo atlas
5 picks Places & Experiences You Won't Find Elsewhere-
The Kahayan River, immediately east of Sebangu National Park, is a real hidden gem which doesn't feature highly on most 'mainstream' orangutan-spotting itineraries. The main reason I recommend the Kahayan River to almost anyone who visits Indonesian Borneo is because it's here that you can combine wildlife spotting with real and meaningful cultural interactions with the indigenous Dayak people which is, I believe, key to ensuring the long-term survival of both the orangutans and the people who live here. You access the Kahayan River from the town of Palangkaraya, which is close to the forested island of Pulau Kaja. This is a pre-release habitat for rescued orangutans managed by the Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation, and it's possible to spot orangutans from the river. Downstream from Palangkaraya are Dayak villages of Bukit Rawi, Sigi Tumbang Nusa and Pilang, where you can learn about indigenous religion, cultures and traditional livelihoods. At night the captain will simply find a sheltered location on the bank to moor the boat – it's a true expedition! If you're solely interested in tracking orangutans, the Kahayan River area might not be for you (although it can be easily combined with a visit to nearby Sebangu National Park). However, if you're remotely interested in traditional culture and the interaction of cultural preservation and wildlife conservation, I can't recommend this area highly enough.
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“One of the natural wonders of the world”, according to the UK’s Orangutan Foundation, Taman Nasional (National Park) Tanjung Puting is home to the world's largest population of wild orangutans and represents their best hope for survival. It was at Tanjung Puting in 1971 that leading orangutan authority Dr Biruté Galdikas established the Camp Leakey research station — an instrumental step in bringing the plight of the park’s most famous resident to worldwide attention. Set amid the largest swathe of coastal tropical heath and peat swamp forest, which used to cover much of southern Borneo, Tanjung Puting started out as a game reserve in 1935 before becoming a National Park in 1982. The best way to experience the wonders of Tanjung Puting is on a traditional klotok (houseboat) puttering gently along Sungai Sekonyer as you search for pot-bellied macaques, hornbills and the odd crocodile. Starting from the Kumai river port in the central Kalimantan city of Pangkalan Bun, your guides will typically stop at three main feeding stations within the park, where you will get to experience semi-wild orangutans during feeding sessions. The best option for this is at Tanjung Harapan, but you’ll also stop at Pondok Tangui. Your final destination will be Camp Leakey, a 4-4 ½ hour journey upriver. From the docking point, be prepared for a 45-minute walk to the first feeding platform at Camp Leakey, on a flat and well-maintained path. Here, as well as orangutans, you will see Bornean bearded pigs, gibbons and mangrove-loving proboscis. Camp Leakey is your best chance to see orangutans — most were released around here and stay close to the site. In general, orangutans around Camp Leakey are the most relaxed around humans. Look out for Tom, the camp’s alpha male (but if you do see him, be careful not to engage in a staring match). Once feeding time is over, you can explore the camp’s excellent information centre. Tanjung Puting offers plenty of other activities including birding, hiking and wildlife tours — as well as cultural trips to remote villages.
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Start in the port town of Kumai in Central Kalimantan, the gateway to the famous Tanjung Puting National Park. Here, you’ll board a traditional klotok longboat and begin your journey up the Sekonyer River, where you can spot crocodiles, proboscis monkeys and other wildlife. Day two will see you arrive at renowned orangutan research centre Camp Leakey, where you’ll meet rangers, explore the camp and watch orangutans feeding, before trekking into the jungle. After a peaceful night on your boat, you’ll sail downriver to an orangutan feeding station, before journeying to the Pesalat Reforestation Camp. Here, you can learn more about reforestation and the devastating impact of illegal logging on Borneo’s wildlife, as well as searching for proboscis monkeys before returning to Kumai.
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Starting in kaleidoscopic Kuching, take the time to stroll along the riverfront, taking in the colonial architecture, Weekend Market and a day trip to Gunung Gading National Park — especially if the giant Rafflesia flower is in bloom. Next, begin your orangutan adventure in the Semenggoh Nature Reserve at the orangutan sanctuary, where you can watch this playful ape feed and learn survival skills before being re-released back into the wild. Continue your wildlife adventure with a boat trip to Bako National Park to see macaques and proboscis monkeys, before ending in Kuching Wetlands National Park for crocodiles, lizards and an amazing array of birds.
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Start your trip in cosmopolitan Kuching, making sure to sample Malaysian cuisine before making a day trip to Bako National Park, Sarawak’s oldest national park. Here, you can trek through the jungle and see macaques and proboscis monkeys. Next, head to the Batang Ai river, where you’ll take a riverboat cruise to see the traditional longhouses of the Iban people. Travel back to Kuching before flying to Sandakan and the Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary for feeding time and conservation. Continue your orangutan odyssey on the Kinabatangan River searching for semi-wild orangutans building nests and jungle treks. End your trip with a flight to Kinabalu for beaches, resorts and relaxation.
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Indigenous cultures & conservation on the Kahayan River
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Tanjung Puting National Park & Camp Leakey
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Orangutans and Tanjung Puting
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Sarawak’s national parks
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The best of Sarawak
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